Went to Lowe's (I know, should have gone to a paint store) and asked for
caulk for my new (hardei plank) outside siding. They advised me to buy GE
"Window & Door" 100% Silicone Sealant. After having applied 5 tubes of this
stuff around all window trim, door trim, hardie plank edges etc. etc., I
find that paint does not stick to silicone. Did not know that!!! I've
painted the caulked seams 6 times already and the paint just retracts from
the silicone in about 5-10 seconds.

I can live with the above on all the vertical trim seams, but, on the butt
joints of the hardie plank, in the middle of the wall, the white blotches
look pretty ridiculous.

Any advise appreciated. You're welcome to call me a fool etc., but please
advise.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

Ivan Vegvary wrote:

I can live with the above on all the vertical trim seams, but, on the butt
joints of the hardie plank, in the middle of the wall, the white blotches
look pretty ridiculous.

Peel off the white stuff and use the clear instead.

Chris

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:4LiIi.4706$Ij2.3885@trndny06...
Went to Lowe's (I know, should have gone to a paint store) and asked for
caulk for my new (hardei plank) outside siding. They advised me to buy GE
"Window & Door" 100% Silicone Sealant. After having applied 5 tubes of
this
stuff around all window trim, door trim, hardie plank edges etc. etc., I
find that paint does not stick to silicone.

That it correct, it does not. You have to get PAINTABLE type, which is a
mix of silicone and latex. TMK all latex caulk is paintable.

Not sure how to fix this, but you could try putting small cover of paintable
on the top of what you have and paint that. Try it first.

Rich

Nothing to do with the paintability issue, I would not have used
any silicone, in a year's time it won't be stuck anyway. Poorest
possible caulking choice.

Your only choice now is to carefully razor blade the stuff off.
You must get it all, paint will not stick to any version of it. I
have not found any chemical or solvent that helps appreciably.
You may need to slightly gouge the Hardie surface to get the
silicone out of the pores.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:4LiIi.4706$Ij2.3885@trndny06...
Went to Lowe's (I know, should have gone to a paint store) and
asked for caulk for my new (hardei plank) outside siding. They
advised me to buy GE "Window & Door" 100% Silicone Sealant.
After having applied 5 tubes of this stuff around all window
trim, door trim, hardie plank edges etc. etc., I find that paint
does not stick to silicone. Did not know that!!! I've painted
the caulked seams 6 times already and the paint just retracts
from the silicone in about 5-10 seconds.

I can live with the above on all the vertical trim seams, but,
on the butt joints of the hardie plank, in the middle of the
wall, the white blotches look pretty ridiculous.

Any advise appreciated. You're welcome to call me a fool etc.,
but please advise.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote:

Any advise appreciated. You're welcome to call me a fool etc., but please
advise.

GE does make versions that are paintable. You just have to read the label...
AFAIK there's nothing you can do to the existing caulk to make it paintable and
silicone caulk does not stick to itself very well, so you'll need to remove the
existing bead.

--
"Tell me what I should do, Annie."
"Stay. Here. Forever." - Life On Mars

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in
news:4LiIi.4706$Ij2.3885@trndny06:

Went to Lowe's (I know, should have gone to a paint store) and asked
for caulk for my new (hardei plank) outside siding. They advised me
to buy GE "Window & Door" 100% Silicone Sealant. After having applied
5 tubes of this stuff around all window trim, door trim, hardie plank
edges etc. etc., I find that paint does not stick to silicone. Did
not know that!!! I've painted the caulked seams 6 times already and
the paint just retracts from the silicone in about 5-10 seconds.

I can live with the above on all the vertical trim seams, but, on the
butt joints of the hardie plank, in the middle of the wall, the white
blotches look pretty ridiculous.

Any advise appreciated. You're welcome to call me a fool etc., but
please advise.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary




First thing I would have tried and have always wondered is what RichK
said.

...but you could try putting small cover of paintable on the
top of what you have and paint that.



But Rick Blaine said

silicone caulk does not stick to itself very well


Might try a polyurethane that is paintable over the silicone. It's a
crapshoot. Cost you $5-6 to find out.

PL Polyurethane® Window, Door & Siding Sealant
http://stickwithpl.com/ProductsList....THANE-SEALANTS


Another I've used is Henry 900 Construction & Flashing Sealant
http://www.henry.com/Patching_Repair_Cements.175.0.html
* Superior adhesion for roofing, flashing and construction
applications
* Most flexible and durable sealant available
* Paintable


Both I've painted over fine but never tried it over silicone. Best I can
give ya.

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:4LiIi.4706$Ij2.3885@trndny06...
Went to Lowe's (I know, should have gone to a paint store) and asked for
caulk for my new (hardei plank) outside siding. They advised me to buy GE
"Window & Door" 100% Silicone Sealant. After having applied 5 tubes of
this stuff around all window trim, door trim, hardie plank edges etc.
etc., I find that paint does not stick to silicone. Did not know that!!!
I've painted the caulked seams 6 times already and the paint just retracts
from the silicone in about 5-10 seconds.

I can live with the above on all the vertical trim seams, but, on the butt
joints of the hardie plank, in the middle of the wall, the white blotches
look pretty ridiculous.

Any advise appreciated. You're welcome to call me a fool etc., but please
advise.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

Sorry to hear that. You in trouble!!! The first mistake was using GE
caulk. The stuff is JUNK. I got suckered into using the same stuff, only
the GE caulk that I had was "paintable" silocone caulk. Yea, right. The
paint fish-eyed and looked like crap. I also tried the "white" version of
the same stuff. It turned clear when it dried. GE CAULK IS GARBAGE!!
AVOID IT AT ALL COST!!

Your best bet would have been to use pre-painted hardie plank with a
matching tri-polymer sealant. They have color-matched caulk avaliable for
the stock colors of hardie-plank.

If this mess were mine (and I'm glad it's not) I would remove the silicone
caulk, and paint. Hopefully the silocone has not contaminated a large area
that causes more fisheyes. After painting, I would then re-caulk with a
latex or tri-polymer color-matched caulk.

Good Luck!!

On Wed, 19 Sep 2007 21:49:55 -0400, bq340 wrote:

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Went to Lowe's (I know, should have gone to a paint store) and asked for
caulk for my new (hardei plank) outside siding. They advised me to buy GE
"Window & Door" 100% Silicone Sealant. After having applied 5 tubes of this
stuff around all window trim, door trim, hardie plank edges etc. etc., I
find that paint does not stick to silicone. Did not know that!!! I've
painted the caulked seams 6 times already and the paint just retracts from
the silicone in about 5-10 seconds.

I can live with the above on all the vertical trim seams, but, on the butt
joints of the hardie plank, in the middle of the wall, the white blotches
look pretty ridiculous.

Any advise appreciated. You're welcome to call me a fool etc., but please
advise.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary


I've discovered if you wait a couple/few weeks it will weather & get
dirt and dust on it, then the paint will cover it ok. DAMHIKT
MikeB

I agree. I have done this several times. Pure silicone is the best
caulk money can buy, but the painting issues are a problem. Another
tip. I found that if I apply spray paint over the caulk, and let it
dry, the house color paint will adhere to the spray paint. I used
silver "aluminum paint". Just a cheap generic spray paint is what I
used. Give this a try. The spray paint is only a dollar a can at
Walmart.

On Sep 20, 4:15 am, wrote:
On Wed, 19 Sep 2007 21:49:55 -0400, bq340 wrote:

I've discovered if you wait a couple/few weeks it will weather & get
dirt and dust on it, then the paint will cover it ok. DAMHIKT
MikeB

I agree. I have done this several times. Pure silicone is the best
caulk money can buy, but the painting issues are a problem.

Silicone caulk is just dandy in certain applications - bathrooms for
instance - but it is far from the best caulk money can buy for every
application. In the OP's case it is the absolute worst choice. In
the commercial building trades silicone caulk is used for metal, tile
and glass applications - like storefronts and curtain walls - but
polyurethane caulk is used for the critical joints in masonry, which
is what Hardiboard is.

R

On Sep 19, 7:01 pm, "Ivan Vegvary" wrote:
Went to Lowe's (I know, should have gone to a paint store) and asked for
caulk for my new (hardei plank) outside siding. They advised me to buy GE
"Window & Door" 100% Silicone Sealant. After having applied 5 tubes of this
stuff around all window trim, door trim, hardie plank edges etc. etc., I
find that paint does not stick to silicone. Did not know that!!! I've
painted the caulked seams 6 times already and the paint just retracts from
the silicone in about 5-10 seconds.

I can live with the above on all the vertical trim seams, but, on the butt
joints of the hardie plank, in the middle of the wall, the white blotches
look pretty ridiculous.

Any advise appreciated. You're welcome to call me a fool etc., but please
advise.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

Plan now to remove every board in contact with the silicone sealant.
If this means doing over the whole job, so be it. in a word, you're
scr*wd. When the boards are off, get rid of every trace of the stuff,
razor blades where you can see it, methylene chloride paint stripper
on the thin films. Might even be a good idea to re-cover the area with
Tyvek to avoid further trouble. Sincere sympathy on this mishap and
good luck.

Joe

On Sep 19, 8:25 pm, "J.A. Michel" wrote:
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message

news:4LiIi.4706$Ij2.3885@trndny06...



Went to Lowe's (I know, should have gone to a paint store) and asked for
caulk for my new (hardei plank) outside siding. They advised me to buy GE
"Window & Door" 100% Silicone Sealant. After having applied 5 tubes of
this stuff around all window trim, door trim, hardie plank edges etc.
etc., I find that paint does not stick to silicone. Did not know that!!!
I've painted the caulked seams 6 times already and the paint just retracts
from the silicone in about 5-10 seconds.

I can live with the above on all the vertical trim seams, but, on the butt
joints of the hardie plank, in the middle of the wall, the white blotches
look pretty ridiculous.

Any advise appreciated. You're welcome to call me a fool etc., but please
advise.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

Sorry to hear that. You in trouble!!! The first mistake was using GE
caulk. The stuff is JUNK. I got suckered into using the same stuff, only
the GE caulk that I had was "paintable" silocone caulk. Yea, right. The
paint fish-eyed and looked like crap. I also tried the "white" version of
the same stuff. It turned clear when it dried. GE CAULK IS GARBAGE!!
AVOID IT AT ALL COST!!

Your best bet would have been to use pre-painted hardie plank with a
matching tri-polymer sealant. They have color-matched caulk avaliable for
the stock colors of hardie-plank.

If this mess were mine (and I'm glad it's not) I would remove the silicone
caulk, and paint. Hopefully the silocone has not contaminated a large area
that causes more fisheyes. After painting, I would then re-caulk with a
latex or tri-polymer color-matched caulk.

Good Luck!!



I don't know that GE is any better or worse than other brands, but I
think the caulk that dried clear was supposed to... several brands now
offer a clear caulking that goes on white, but dries clear (easier to
see when you're applying it... and works pretty well, imo)

One suggestion to to try to find a colour matching caulk and apply it
over the existing caulk - I think silicone will stick to itself okay
if it's pretty fresh... good luck!

On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 20:04:44 -0700, Joe wrote:

On Sep 19, 7:01 pm, "Ivan Vegvary" wrote:
Went to Lowe's (I know, should have gone to a paint store) and asked for
caulk for my new (hardei plank) outside siding. They advised me to buy GE
"Window & Door" 100% Silicone Sealant. After having applied 5 tubes of this
stuff around all window trim, door trim, hardie plank edges etc. etc., I
find that paint does not stick to silicone. Did not know that!!! I've
painted the caulked seams 6 times already and the paint just retracts from
the silicone in about 5-10 seconds.

I can live with the above on all the vertical trim seams, but, on the butt
joints of the hardie plank, in the middle of the wall, the white blotches
look pretty ridiculous.

Any advise appreciated. You're welcome to call me a fool etc., but please
advise.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

Plan now to remove every board in contact with the silicone sealant.
If this means doing over the whole job, so be it. in a word, you're
scr*wd. When the boards are off, get rid of every trace of the stuff,
razor blades where you can see it, methylene chloride paint stripper
on the thin films. Might even be a good idea to re-cover the area with
Tyvek to avoid further trouble. Sincere sympathy on this mishap and
good luck.

Joe

Good grief. I'm surprised you didn't tell him to demolish the house
and build a new one !!!!!

All he has to do it let the silicone weather for a year and it can be
painted, or try the spray paint method.

On Sep 21, 5:17 am, wrote:

snip

All he has to do it let the silicone weather for a year and it can be
painted, or try the spray paint method.

I've got silicone sealant on one of my buildings that was applied in
1974 and paint still won't stick to it. It is plain clear silicone,
nothing fancy. Perhaps the weathered product you claim successs with
was really another polymer altogether. There is general agreement in
the industry that silicones and paints are not happy partners. Stop by
and chat with the lads in a body shop sometime if you need some horror
stories abut the problem.

Joe

On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 17:53:49 -0700, Joe wrote:

On Sep 21, 5:17 am, wrote:

snip

All he has to do it let the silicone weather for a year and it can be
painted, or try the spray paint method.

I've got silicone sealant on one of my buildings that was applied in
1974 and paint still won't stick to it. It is plain clear silicone,
nothing fancy. Perhaps the weathered product you claim successs with
was really another polymer altogether. There is general agreement in
the industry that silicones and paints are not happy partners. Stop by
and chat with the lads in a body shop sometime if you need some horror
stories abut the problem.

Joe

The stuff I used was 100% pure silicone. It was out in the weather
and could be painted a year later. Ok, there were a few fish eye
spots, but nothing I'd lose sleep over. This June I applied some
silicone between a metal roof and the wood facia board on a shed. The
old fashined corrigated metal allowed moisture to enter, which caused
the old facia board to rot. I replaced the board and applied the
silicone. When I went to paint the new facia boards, the paint would
not adhere to the clear silicone, so I had an ugly strip of bare wood
showing. I took a can of aluminum paint (cheap Walmart stuff) and
painted the silicone, since the metal was silver anyhow. After it
dried, I painted the wood again with the latex paint and it covered
well, but left a few fisheyes again, but very few. This is just based
on personal expreience. The silicone was also from Walmart, and said
100% silicone, and I know what it smells like, and it was definately
silicone. I should also mention that I applied it to a barn roof and
put the caulk around almost every loose nail head. The following year
I painted the entire roof with an oil based silver paint in gallon
cans. 99% of the silicone was painted when I finished the job.