We have remodeled our home recently, we have a room where the lights
are not coming on. It is all new wiring. I tested the sockets to see
if there is a live current when light switch is on and no current when
off and that seems to be okay. I thought maybe the bubs were bad but
no the problem either.Do you think some wires are wrong on one of the
canned lights somewhere or what can be causing the lights to not go
on?

Thanks in advance?

wrote:

We have remodeled our home recently, we have a room where the lights
are not coming on. It is all new wiring. I tested the sockets to see
if there is a live current when light switch is on and no current when
off and that seems to be okay. I thought maybe the bubs were bad but
no the problem either.Do you think some wires are wrong on one of the
canned lights somewhere or what can be causing the lights to not go
on?

Thanks in advance?

Hi,
If some one did the work, s/he should fix it. If you did it, I am afraid
you better get a qualified help before you kill your self or burning
down your house. Hope you have a good house insurance?

Remember that for a current to flow you need Active
and ground. Check the current from active to neutral
at the light fitting NOT just the Active.
wrote in message
oups.com...
We have remodeled our home recently, we have a room where the lights
are not coming on. It is all new wiring. I tested the sockets to see
if there is a live current when light switch is on and no current when
off and that seems to be okay. I thought maybe the bubs were bad but
no the problem either.Do you think some wires are wrong on one of the
canned lights somewhere or what can be causing the lights to not go
on?

Thanks in advance?

I agree with Telstra.

The problem is almost certainly a loose connection at the neutral.

In article .com,
" wrote:

We have remodeled our home recently, we have a room where the lights
are not coming on. It is all new wiring. I tested the sockets to see
if there is a live current when light switch is on and no current when
off and that seems to be okay. I thought maybe the bubs were bad but
no the problem either.Do you think some wires are wrong on one of the
canned lights somewhere or what can be causing the lights to not go
on?

Thanks in advance?

If the fixtures are old, the center tab may be collapsed so that it
doesn't make contact with the bottom of the bulb.

More likely, something's simply wired incorrectly. A meter could tell
you that if you knew how to use it. But, there's a significant
difference between current and voltage. Without some fundamental
understanding of that, a multimeter is almost useless at best, worse
than useless at worst.

Here's a fun self-test. Connect your voltmeter to a working light
switch, one probe on each wire or screw. Measure the voltage when the
light it on, and again when it's off. If you can explain your
experimental results, you're qualified to do some basic troubleshooting
of electrical issues around the house.

Lighting circuits are simple and straight forward. Consisting of
a switched active connected to a filament and unswitched
neutral.
However the circuits can be looped. through a switch, lighting
fixture or terminal box. A switch can have two wires one
active and one to the light or three one active from the supply
one active loop wire to a second switch and one to the light. A
looped active or neutral can also go from light fixture to light
fixture or from junction box to junction box.
This means that a loose connection in one room can affect a
number of rooms on that loop but not others on a different loop.
Use a voltmeter not a neon tester to check the active and neutral
loop.


"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article .com,
" wrote:

We have remodeled our home recently, we have a room where the lights
are not coming on. It is all new wiring. I tested the sockets to see
if there is a live current when light switch is on and no current when
off and that seems to be okay. I thought maybe the bubs were bad but
no the problem either.Do you think some wires are wrong on one of the
canned lights somewhere or what can be causing the lights to not go
on?

Thanks in advance?

If the fixtures are old, the center tab may be collapsed so that it
doesn't make contact with the bottom of the bulb.

More likely, something's simply wired incorrectly. A meter could tell
you that if you knew how to use it. But, there's a significant
difference between current and voltage. Without some fundamental
understanding of that, a multimeter is almost useless at best, worse
than useless at worst.

Here's a fun self-test. Connect your voltmeter to a working light
switch, one probe on each wire or screw. Measure the voltage when the
light it on, and again when it's off. If you can explain your
experimental results, you're qualified to do some basic troubleshooting
of electrical issues around the house.

On Sat, 08 Sep 2007 06:37:05 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article .com,
" wrote:

We have remodeled our home recently, we have a room where the lights
are not coming on. It is all new wiring. I tested the sockets to see
if there is a live current when light switch is on and no current when
off and that seems to be okay. I thought maybe the bubs were bad but
no the problem either.Do you think some wires are wrong on one of the
canned lights somewhere or what can be causing the lights to not go
on?

Thanks in advance?

If the fixtures are old, the center tab may be collapsed so that it
doesn't make contact with the bottom of the bulb.

More likely, something's simply wired incorrectly. A meter could tell
you that if you knew how to use it. But, there's a significant
difference between current and voltage. Without some fundamental
understanding of that, a multimeter is almost useless at best, worse
than useless at worst.

Here's a fun self-test. Connect your voltmeter to a working light
switch, one probe on each wire or screw. Measure the voltage when the

There's an easier one for him to do before that. A working light
socket, like you way, when it is on and when it is off.

And OP, by OK do you mean 110 volts AC when on and nothing when off.

And please stop saying current when you should know that you're
talking about voltages. Ask about that if you don't understand.

light it on, and again when it's off. If you can explain your
experimental results, you're qualified to do some basic troubleshooting
of electrical issues around the house.

In article ,
mm wrote:

On Sat, 08 Sep 2007 06:37:05 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article .com,
" wrote:

We have remodeled our home recently, we have a room where the lights
are not coming on. It is all new wiring. I tested the sockets to see
if there is a live current when light switch is on and no current when
off and that seems to be okay. I thought maybe the bubs were bad but
no the problem either.Do you think some wires are wrong on one of the
canned lights somewhere or what can be causing the lights to not go
on?

Thanks in advance?

If the fixtures are old, the center tab may be collapsed so that it
doesn't make contact with the bottom of the bulb.

More likely, something's simply wired incorrectly. A meter could tell
you that if you knew how to use it. But, there's a significant
difference between current and voltage. Without some fundamental
understanding of that, a multimeter is almost useless at best, worse
than useless at worst.

Here's a fun self-test. Connect your voltmeter to a working light
switch, one probe on each wire or screw. Measure the voltage when the

There's an easier one for him to do before that. A working light
socket, like you way, when it is on and when it is off.

And OP, by OK do you mean 110 volts AC when on and nothing when off.

And please stop saying current when you should know that you're
talking about voltages. Ask about that if you don't understand.

light it on, and again when it's off. If you can explain your
experimental results, you're qualified to do some basic troubleshooting
of electrical issues around the house.

Agreed that the light socket test is easier than the switch test, but
those results would "make sense" to someone who doesn't understand basic
circuits. The switch test, OTOH, would likely baffle someone who hasn't
thought these things through. Hopefully encourage further learning.

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 12:33:00 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
mm wrote:

On Sat, 08 Sep 2007 06:37:05 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article .com,
" wrote:

We have remodeled our home recently, we have a room where the lights
are not coming on. It is all new wiring. I tested the sockets to see
if there is a live current when light switch is on and no current when
off and that seems to be okay. I thought maybe the bubs were bad but
no the problem either.Do you think some wires are wrong on one of the
canned lights somewhere or what can be causing the lights to not go
on?

Thanks in advance?

If the fixtures are old, the center tab may be collapsed so that it
doesn't make contact with the bottom of the bulb.

More likely, something's simply wired incorrectly. A meter could tell
you that if you knew how to use it. But, there's a significant
difference between current and voltage. Without some fundamental
understanding of that, a multimeter is almost useless at best, worse
than useless at worst.

Here's a fun self-test. Connect your voltmeter to a working light
switch, one probe on each wire or screw. Measure the voltage when the

There's an easier one for him to do before that. A working light
socket, like you way, when it is on and when it is off.

And OP, by OK do you mean 110 volts AC when on and nothing when off.

And please stop saying current when you should know that you're
talking about voltages. Ask about that if you don't understand.

light it on, and again when it's off. If you can explain your
experimental results, you're qualified to do some basic troubleshooting
of electrical issues around the house.

Agreed that the light socket test is easier than the switch test, but
those results would "make sense" to someone who doesn't understand basic
circuits. The switch test, OTOH, would likely baffle someone who hasn't
thought these things through. Hopefully encourage further learning.

Aha! Very cunning. I won't interrupt again on this point.

On Sep 9, 6:48 pm, mm wrote:
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 12:33:00 -0700, Smitty Two





wrote:
In article ,
mm wrote:

On Sat, 08 Sep 2007 06:37:05 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article .com,
" wrote:

We have remodeled our home recently, we have a room where the lights
are not coming on. It is all new wiring. I tested the sockets to see
if there is a live current when light switch is on and no current when
off and that seems to be okay. I thought maybe the bubs were bad but
no the problem either.Do you think some wires are wrong on one of the
canned lights somewhere or what can be causing the lights to not go
on?

Thanks in advance?

If the fixtures are old, the center tab may be collapsed so that it
doesn't make contact with the bottom of the bulb.

More likely, something's simply wired incorrectly. A meter could tell
you that if you knew how to use it. But, there's a significant
difference between current and voltage. Without some fundamental
understanding of that, a multimeter is almost useless at best, worse
than useless at worst.

Here's a fun self-test. Connect your voltmeter to a working light
switch, one probe on each wire or screw. Measure the voltage when the

There's an easier one for him to do before that. A working light
socket, like you way, when it is on and when it is off.

And OP, by OK do you mean 110 volts AC when on and nothing when off.

And please stop saying current when you should know that you're
talking about voltages. Ask about that if you don't understand.

light it on, and again when it's off. If you can explain your
experimental results, you're qualified to do some basic troubleshooting
of electrical issues around the house.

Agreed that the light socket test is easier than the switch test, but
those results would "make sense" to someone who doesn't understand basic
circuits. The switch test, OTOH, would likely baffle someone who hasn't
thought these things through. Hopefully encourage further learning.

Aha! Very cunning. I won't interrupt again on this point.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ahhh, thanks guys. I actually am using a volt meter and the simple
meter to let you know if a wire is hot. The simple voltage tester
tells me that both the black and white wires on this run have power? I
thought only the black wire should have power? Well when I go to test
the voltage, I touch the ends to the white and the black wires and I
dont get anything close to 120. I get more like a really low number (I
guess just feedback)? When I touch the black with the ground I then
get the coreect 120 amps? Does this make sensse?

In article . com,
" wrote:

On Sep 9, 6:48 pm, mm wrote:
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 12:33:00 -0700, Smitty Two





wrote:
In article ,
mm wrote:

On Sat, 08 Sep 2007 06:37:05 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article .com,
" wrote:

We have remodeled our home recently, we have a room where the lights
are not coming on. It is all new wiring. I tested the sockets to see
if there is a live current when light switch is on and no current
when
off and that seems to be okay. I thought maybe the bubs were bad but
no the problem either.Do you think some wires are wrong on one of the
canned lights somewhere or what can be causing the lights to not go
on?

Thanks in advance?

If the fixtures are old, the center tab may be collapsed so that it
doesn't make contact with the bottom of the bulb.

More likely, something's simply wired incorrectly. A meter could tell
you that if you knew how to use it. But, there's a significant
difference between current and voltage. Without some fundamental
understanding of that, a multimeter is almost useless at best, worse
than useless at worst.

Here's a fun self-test. Connect your voltmeter to a working light
switch, one probe on each wire or screw. Measure the voltage when the

There's an easier one for him to do before that. A working light
socket, like you way, when it is on and when it is off.

And OP, by OK do you mean 110 volts AC when on and nothing when off.

And please stop saying current when you should know that you're
talking about voltages. Ask about that if you don't understand.

light it on, and again when it's off. If you can explain your
experimental results, you're qualified to do some basic troubleshooting
of electrical issues around the house.

Agreed that the light socket test is easier than the switch test, but
those results would "make sense" to someone who doesn't understand basic
circuits. The switch test, OTOH, would likely baffle someone who hasn't
thought these things through. Hopefully encourage further learning.

Aha! Very cunning. I won't interrupt again on this point.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Ahhh, thanks guys. I actually am using a volt meter and the simple
meter to let you know if a wire is hot. The simple voltage tester
tells me that both the black and white wires on this run have power? I
thought only the black wire should have power? Well when I go to test
the voltage, I touch the ends to the white and the black wires and I
dont get anything close to 120. I get more like a really low number (I
guess just feedback)? When I touch the black with the ground I then
get the coreect 120 amps? Does this make sensse?

Gabriel, I admire your tenacity and respect your desire to troubleshoot
this one yourself. I know it can be frustrating to try to fix something
when the theory on which it operates is a little fuzzy to you.

That said, I think it's outside the scope of this group to give you a
thorough lesson in the basics. Without that understanding, your meter
isn't telling you anything you can use.

I'd suggest you get a ceramic light socket with a large base so that it
will sit upright by itself. Get a regular light switch. Get a power cord
with a plug on one end and bare wires or alligator clips on the other
end. Mount everything to a piece of plywood or similar. Get some
alligator clip test leads to connect things together. Then start
measuring voltage and current in various places as you turn the light on
and off. Do a google search for electric circuit fundamentals, follow
along with your homemade laboratory test circuit. Be careful.

On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 22:34:27 -0700, "
wrote:

We have remodeled our home recently, we have a room where the lights
are not coming on. It is all new wiring. I tested the sockets to see
if there is a live current when light switch is on and no current when
off and that seems to be okay. I thought maybe the bubs were bad but
no the problem either.Do you think some wires are wrong on one of the
canned lights somewhere or what can be causing the lights to not go
on?

Thanks in advance?

You really should have the person that wired it come back and fix it.

If changing the bulbs in more than one fixture does not solve the
problem suggests it is very likely a problem with the wiring itself.

You don't say if the lights have ever been on.

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 19:33:53 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:


I'd suggest you get a ceramic light socket with a large base so that it
will sit upright by itself. Get a regular light switch. Get a power cord
with a plug on one end and bare wires or alligator clips on the other
end. Mount everything to a piece of plywood or similar. Get some
alligator clip test leads to connect things together. Then start
measuring voltage and current in various places as you turn the light on

Is this reference to current another cunning test? I never said I
would stay out of that one. You can't measure AC current with most
meters, including almost certainly the one he has.

and off. Do a google search for electric circuit fundamentals, follow
along with your homemade laboratory test circuit. Be careful.

Also the public library likely has a book on fundamentals of
electricity, with drawings of circuits (so you can tell if it's likely
to be good before you leave the library.)

In article ,
mm wrote:

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 19:33:53 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:


I'd suggest you get a ceramic light socket with a large base so that it
will sit upright by itself. Get a regular light switch. Get a power cord
with a plug on one end and bare wires or alligator clips on the other
end. Mount everything to a piece of plywood or similar. Get some
alligator clip test leads to connect things together. Then start
measuring voltage and current in various places as you turn the light on

Is this reference to current another cunning test? I never said I
would stay out of that one. You can't measure AC current with most
meters, including almost certainly the one he has.

Good point. OP, for current testing, and ohms law theory, use a
flashlight bulb and battery.


and off. Do a google search for electric circuit fundamentals, follow
along with your homemade laboratory test circuit. Be careful.

Also the public library likely has a book on fundamentals of
electricity, with drawings of circuits (so you can tell if it's likely
to be good before you leave the library.)

The white wire is connected to the active in series with
the resistance of the bulb filament. Turn the switch off
and the voltage should disappear. Then connect the wire
to neutral.and turn the switch on.

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Sep 9, 6:48 pm, mm wrote:
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 12:33:00 -0700, Smitty Two





wrote:
In article ,
mm wrote:

On Sat, 08 Sep 2007 06:37:05 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article .com,
" wrote:

We have remodeled our home recently, we have a room where the
lights
are not coming on. It is all new wiring. I tested the sockets to
see
if there is a live current when light switch is on and no current
when
off and that seems to be okay. I thought maybe the bubs were bad
but
no the problem either.Do you think some wires are wrong on one of
the
canned lights somewhere or what can be causing the lights to not go
on?

Thanks in advance?

If the fixtures are old, the center tab may be collapsed so that it
doesn't make contact with the bottom of the bulb.

More likely, something's simply wired incorrectly. A meter could tell
you that if you knew how to use it. But, there's a significant
difference between current and voltage. Without some fundamental
understanding of that, a multimeter is almost useless at best, worse
than useless at worst.

Here's a fun self-test. Connect your voltmeter to a working light
switch, one probe on each wire or screw. Measure the voltage when the

There's an easier one for him to do before that. A working light
socket, like you way, when it is on and when it is off.

And OP, by OK do you mean 110 volts AC when on and nothing when off.

And please stop saying current when you should know that you're
talking about voltages. Ask about that if you don't understand.

light it on, and again when it's off. If you can explain your
experimental results, you're qualified to do some basic
troubleshooting
of electrical issues around the house.

Agreed that the light socket test is easier than the switch test, but
those results would "make sense" to someone who doesn't understand basic
circuits. The switch test, OTOH, would likely baffle someone who hasn't
thought these things through. Hopefully encourage further learning.

Aha! Very cunning. I won't interrupt again on this point.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Ahhh, thanks guys. I actually am using a volt meter and the simple
meter to let you know if a wire is hot. The simple voltage tester
tells me that both the black and white wires on this run have power? I
thought only the black wire should have power? Well when I go to test
the voltage, I touch the ends to the white and the black wires and I
dont get anything close to 120. I get more like a really low number (I
guess just feedback)? When I touch the black with the ground I then
get the coreect 120 amps? Does this make sensse?

On Sep 8, 7:55 pm, "Telstra" wrote:
Lighting circuits are simple and straight forward.


MAYBE! But be careful!

To Telstra and others: IMHO There are times when we can be 'too
helpful'.

If you have to explain 'basic electrics' to someone then they are not
qualified to to work on house wiring safely.

Something may be simple or straightforward to you and I, with probably
80+ years of experience with many types of elecrical and electronic
systems between us.

But the type of question being asked in this case is typical of many
we've seen on this news group.

These are often along the lines of " and my lights don't come on".
They vividly demonstrate that the questioner shouldn't even take a
screwdriver to a switch or outlet; no point trying to explain an 'open
neutral' or 'mis-wired switch' to them!

Viz: Ever hear of the guy living in an apartment who was told he had
to 'ground' something in order to clear up his radio reception or
something. He took a glass pot filled it with earth/soil/dirt stuck
the 'ground wire' into it and put it out on his balcony or window
sill. S'posed to be true story!

Then there was the fellow who was told to ground the green wire. But
then complained he only had three wires, white, black and a bare one
with no cover on it and should he cover that on with tape? Not a clue.

This problem may very well be something an electrically qualified
person will find in ten minutes with a test lamp (after arriving at
the premises). On the other hand the do it your selfer (or a helpful
relative) may have buggered up something so completely and it is not
to code, unsafe and wired with an incorrect gauge of wire!

Be careful what we advise! We've had too many cases of bathroom lights
wired in series with the outlets in the living room in the past, by-
passed by the switch in the hallway!

On Sep 10, 7:25 am, terry wrote:
On Sep 8, 7:55 pm, "Telstra" wrote:

Lighting circuits are simple and straight forward.

MAYBE! But be careful!

To Telstra and others: IMHO There are times when we can be 'too
helpful'.

If you have to explain 'basic electrics' to someone then they are not
qualified to to work on house wiring safely.

Something may be simple or straightforward to you and I, with probably
80+ years of experience with many types of elecrical and electronic
systems between us.

But the type of question being asked in this case is typical of many
we've seen on this news group.

These are often along the lines of " and my lights don't come on".
They vividly demonstrate that the questioner shouldn't even take a
screwdriver to a switch or outlet; no point trying to explain an 'open
neutral' or 'mis-wired switch' to them!

Viz: Ever hear of the guy living in an apartment who was told he had
to 'ground' something in order to clear up his radio reception or
something. He took a glass pot filled it with earth/soil/dirt stuck
the 'ground wire' into it and put it out on his balcony or window
sill. S'posed to be true story!

Then there was the fellow who was told to ground the green wire. But
then complained he only had three wires, white, black and a bare one
with no cover on it and should he cover that on with tape? Not a clue.

This problem may very well be something an electrically qualified
person will find in ten minutes with a test lamp (after arriving at
the premises). On the other hand the do it your selfer (or a helpful
relative) may have buggered up something so completely and it is not
to code, unsafe and wired with an incorrect gauge of wire!

Be careful what we advise! We've had too many cases of bathroom lights
wired in series with the outlets in the living room in the past, by-
passed by the switch in the hallway!

Thanks everyone for your information. I will probably end up calling
the person who did the work back but hey, if I can do it, I will! I
like learning things sometimes.
And Terry, you should be a psychologist!
Thanks,