I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?

thanks,
C

On Sep 6, 8:35 pm, Chelsea wrote:
I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?

thanks,
C

Are you converting a 220V 4 wire connected dryer to a 3 wire conected
dryer? If so there is more then just changung the plug involved.
There is a bonding jumper that needs to be added as well. If not I
assume it's a gas dryer with a 110V plug based on the description.
For 110V:

Black = Line Voltage
White = Neutral
Bare Copper or Green = Equipment Ground

On Sep 6, 10:21 pm, Eric9822 wrote:
On Sep 6, 8:35 pm, Chelsea wrote:

I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?

thanks,
C

Are you converting a 220V 4 wire connected dryer to a 3 wire conected
dryer? If so there is more then just changung the plug involved.
There is a bonding jumper that needs to be added as well. If not I
assume it's a gas dryer with a 110V plug based on the description.
For 110V:

Black = Line Voltage
White = Neutral
Bare Copper or Green = Equipment Ground

No, I am not converting - I simply need a longer power cord - so I am
going from three to three.

In article . com,
Chelsea wrote:

On Sep 6, 10:21 pm, Eric9822 wrote:
On Sep 6, 8:35 pm, Chelsea wrote:

I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?

thanks,
C

Are you converting a 220V 4 wire connected dryer to a 3 wire conected
dryer? If so there is more then just changung the plug involved.
There is a bonding jumper that needs to be added as well. If not I
assume it's a gas dryer with a 110V plug based on the description.
For 110V:

Black = Line Voltage
White = Neutral
Bare Copper or Green = Equipment Ground

No, I am not converting - I simply need a longer power cord - so I am
going from three to three.

So this is a gas dryer and we're talking about 120 volts?

On 7 Sep, 00:41, Chelsea wrote:
On Sep 6, 10:21 pm, Eric9822 wrote:





On Sep 6, 8:35 pm, Chelsea wrote:

I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?

thanks,
C

Are you converting a 220V 4 wire connected dryer to a 3 wire conected
dryer? If so there is more then just changung the plug involved.
There is a bonding jumper that needs to be added as well. If not I
assume it's a gas dryer with a 110V plug based on the description.
For 110V:

Black = Line Voltage
White = Neutral
Bare Copper or Green = Equipment Ground

- No, I am not converting - I simply need a longer power cord - so I
am going from three to three

And you are using the same (or larger) size wire, correct? Let's be
careful out there!

BTW - They sell replacement appliance cords. Maybe you could stop by a
real appliance store (not a borg) and get one in the length you need.

And finally -

If it were me, I'd weigh the option of installing an outlet closer to
the device against modifying the device itself.

"Chelsea" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Sep 6, 10:21 pm, Eric9822 wrote:
On Sep 6, 8:35 pm, Chelsea wrote:

I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?

thanks,
C

Are you converting a 220V 4 wire connected dryer to a 3 wire conected
dryer? If so there is more then just changung the plug involved.
There is a bonding jumper that needs to be added as well. If not I
assume it's a gas dryer with a 110V plug based on the description.
For 110V:

Black = Line Voltage
White = Neutral
Bare Copper or Green = Equipment Ground

No, I am not converting - I simply need a longer power cord - so I am
going from three to three.


Hmmmm. Puting a longer cord on a dryer that has a plug with an "L shaped
prong". Sure sounds to me like it is a 220v volt electric dryer and the OP
is
trying to use the wrong type of new longer cord. He needs a cord designed
for 3 wire 220v applications -- 2 black wires and 1 white wire. It sounds
like he has a typical 120v wire -- 1 black, 1 white and 1 bare wire.

On Sep 7, 6:59 am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On 7 Sep, 00:41, Chelsea wrote:

On Sep 6, 10:21 pm, Eric9822 wrote:

On Sep 6, 8:35 pm, Chelsea wrote:

I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?

thanks,
C

Are you converting a 220V 4 wire connected dryer to a 3 wire conected
dryer? If so there is more then just changung the plug involved.
There is a bonding jumper that needs to be added as well. If not I
assume it's a gas dryer with a 110V plug based on the description.
For 110V:

Black = Line Voltage
White = Neutral
Bare Copper or Green = Equipment Ground

- No, I am not converting - I simply need a longer power cord - so I
am going from three to three

And you are using the same (or larger) size wire, correct? Let's be
careful out there!

BTW - They sell replacement appliance cords. Maybe you could stop by a
real appliance store (not a borg) and get one in the length you need.

And finally -

If it were me, I'd weigh the option of installing an outlet closer to
the device against modifying the device itself.

I stopped by an appliance store - they do not make they can not sell
10 foot cords. I bought the plug from the store and took it with me
to get the wire. It is an electric drier with the two angled slots
and an l

On Sep 7, 7:04 am, "The Streets"
wrote:
"Chelsea" wrote in message

ups.com...



On Sep 6, 10:21 pm, Eric9822 wrote:
On Sep 6, 8:35 pm, Chelsea wrote:

I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?

thanks,
C

Are you converting a 220V 4 wire connected dryer to a 3 wire conected
dryer? If so there is more then just changung the plug involved.
There is a bonding jumper that needs to be added as well. If not I
assume it's a gas dryer with a 110V plug based on the description.
For 110V:

Black = Line Voltage
White = Neutral
Bare Copper or Green = Equipment Ground

No, I am not converting - I simply need a longer power cord - so I am
going from three to three.

Hmmmm. Puting a longer cord on a dryer that has a plug with an "L shaped
prong". Sure sounds to me like it is a 220v volt electric dryer and the OP
is
trying to use the wrong type of new longer cord. He needs a cord designed
for 3 wire 220v applications -- 2 black wires and 1 white wire. It sounds
like he has a typical 120v wire -- 1 black, 1 white and 1 bare wire.

So I have the wrong type of wire?

"Chelsea" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Sep 7, 7:04 am, "The Streets"
wrote:
"Chelsea" wrote in message

ups.com...



On Sep 6, 10:21 pm, Eric9822 wrote:
On Sep 6, 8:35 pm, Chelsea wrote:

I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the
white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?

thanks,
C

Are you converting a 220V 4 wire connected dryer to a 3 wire conected
dryer? If so there is more then just changung the plug involved.
There is a bonding jumper that needs to be added as well. If not I
assume it's a gas dryer with a 110V plug based on the description.
For 110V:

Black = Line Voltage
White = Neutral
Bare Copper or Green = Equipment Ground

No, I am not converting - I simply need a longer power cord - so I am
going from three to three.

Hmmmm. Puting a longer cord on a dryer that has a plug with an "L shaped
prong". Sure sounds to me like it is a 220v volt electric dryer and the
OP
is
trying to use the wrong type of new longer cord. He needs a cord
designed
for 3 wire 220v applications -- 2 black wires and 1 white wire. It
sounds
like he has a typical 120v wire -- 1 black, 1 white and 1 bare wire.

So I have the wrong type of wire?


It seems that you do have the wrong kind of wire. It should have a red,
black and white wire. The white is the neutral. The red and black wires
will have 220 volts across them and the white wire will have 110 volts to
the red or black wire.

This may help:
http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switc...ryer/index.htm

On 7 Sep, 09:22, Chelsea wrote:
On Sep 7, 6:59 am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On 7 Sep, 00:41, Chelsea wrote:

On Sep 6, 10:21 pm, Eric9822 wrote:

On Sep 6, 8:35 pm, Chelsea wrote:

I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?

thanks,
C

Are you converting a 220V 4 wire connected dryer to a 3 wire conected
dryer? If so there is more then just changung the plug involved.
There is a bonding jumper that needs to be added as well. If not I
assume it's a gas dryer with a 110V plug based on the description.
For 110V:

Black = Line Voltage
White = Neutral
Bare Copper or Green = Equipment Ground

- No, I am not converting - I simply need a longer power cord - so I
am going from three to three

And you are using the same (or larger) size wire, correct? Let's be
careful out there!

BTW - They sell replacement appliance cords. Maybe you could stop by a
real appliance store (not a borg) and get one in the length you need.

And finally -

If it were me, I'd weigh the option of installing an outlet closer to
the device against modifying the device itself.

I stopped by an appliance store - they do not make they can not sell
10 foot cords. I bought the plug from the store and took it with me
to get the wire. It is an electric drier with the two angled slots
and an l- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't mean to sound harsh, but I really don't want you to get
hurt...

I stopped by an appliance store

What is your definition of an appliance store?

they do not make they can not sell 10 foot cords

One wonders why "they do not make they can not sell" 10 foot cords. If
there is a valid reason, then maybe you shouldn't be trying to make
your own.

I bought the plug from the store and took it with me to get the
wire

You bought the plug at the appliance store? And took it *where* to get
the wire? I'm worried that someone would have looked at a plug with
angled prongs and sold you wire meant for a 120V application. I
somehow doubt they even sold you the correct guage.

I seriously think it's time to call a pro.

Chelsea wrote:
On Sep 6, 10:21 pm, Eric9822 wrote:
On Sep 6, 8:35 pm, Chelsea wrote:

I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?
thanks,
C
Are you converting a 220V 4 wire connected dryer to a 3 wire conected
dryer? If so there is more then just changung the plug involved.
There is a bonding jumper that needs to be added as well. If not I
assume it's a gas dryer with a 110V plug based on the description.
For 110V:

Black = Line Voltage
White = Neutral
Bare Copper or Green = Equipment Ground

No, I am not converting - I simply need a longer power cord - so I am
going from three to three.

The cable you have purchased is unsuitable for use as flexible cord.
The cord for an electric dryer is only supposed to be six feet in
length. If you are moving the dryer you need to relocate it's
receptacle outlet closer to it's new location. Ten gauge wire is the
smallest that is suitable for use at thirty amperes. Since all of the
conductors in the appropriate flexible cord would be insulated you could
simply mark the green wire red and use the white white as the neutral.
Please keep in mind that the white wire will be serving as both the
grounding conductor and the grounded current carrying conductor. Take
extra care with each connection less you should someday find the frame
of the dryer with 120 volts on it.
--
Tom Horne

You folks are sure scaring me. There is no neutral for 220
service. I don't care what the colors of the wire are.

The size of the wire is important. The shape of the plug is
important. The colors of the wire mean nothing, although green
and bare have become universally accepted for ground. Here may be
some of the confusion:
Current code and modern usage may require 110V for something on
the dryer/range/etc (no dryers of which I am aware need 110V).
The 110V requires a neutral. 220 still does not use a neutral.
This configuration wants four wires, four prongs on the plug - two
hots, a neutral, and a ground. The only reason for the neutral is
if (rarely) there is something on the appliance that uses 110V.
These colors will often be red (hot), black (hot), white
(neutral), and green or bare (ground).

Older wiring will usually have a 3 wire connection. Two hots and
a ground. If there is not 110V usage, you do not have or need a
neutral. It may well have the ground and "neutral" lug bonded
together where you attach the appliance cord. The odd shaped
prong will be the ground. There is no neutral. Sometimes the
colors may be Black (hot), Red (hot), Green or bare (ground).
Very often the colors will be Black (hot), White (hot), Green or
bare (ground). Kinda depends on what wire was available at the
supply house that day.

I hope this helps some. If you cannot follow the concepts, please
call an electrician.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Thomas Horne" wrote in
message ...
Chelsea wrote:
On Sep 6, 10:21 pm, Eric9822 wrote:
On Sep 6, 8:35 pm, Chelsea wrote:

I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3
prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped
prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is
the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?
thanks,
C
Are you converting a 220V 4 wire connected dryer to a 3 wire
conected
dryer? If so there is more then just changung the plug
involved.
There is a bonding jumper that needs to be added as well. If
not I
assume it's a gas dryer with a 110V plug based on the
description.
For 110V:

Black = Line Voltage
White = Neutral
Bare Copper or Green = Equipment Ground

No, I am not converting - I simply need a longer power cord -
so I am
going from three to three.

The cable you have purchased is unsuitable for use as flexible
cord. The cord for an electric dryer is only supposed to be six
feet in length. If you are moving the dryer you need to
relocate it's receptacle outlet closer to it's new location.
Ten gauge wire is the smallest that is suitable for use at
thirty amperes. Since all of the conductors in the appropriate
flexible cord would be insulated you could simply mark the green
wire red and use the white white as the neutral. Please keep in
mind that the white wire will be serving as both the grounding
conductor and the grounded current carrying conductor. Take
extra care with each connection less you should someday find the
frame of the dryer with 120 volts on it.
--
Tom Horne

Immediate attention.

My earlier response was/is based on typical United States single
phase, residential type power. Our friends in foreign places have
different systems. I certainly did not mean to ignore, nor do I
pretend to advise them

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"DanG" wrote in message
...
You folks are sure scaring me. There is no neutral for 220
service. I don't care what the colors of the wire are.

The size of the wire is important. The shape of the plug is
important. The colors of the wire mean nothing, although green
and bare have become universally accepted for ground. Here may
be some of the confusion:
Current code and modern usage may require 110V for something on
the dryer/range/etc (no dryers of which I am aware need 110V).
The 110V requires a neutral. 220 still does not use a neutral.
This configuration wants four wires, four prongs on the plug -
two hots, a neutral, and a ground. The only reason for the
neutral is if (rarely) there is something on the appliance that
uses 110V. These colors will often be red (hot), black (hot),
white (neutral), and green or bare (ground).

Older wiring will usually have a 3 wire connection. Two hots
and a ground. If there is not 110V usage, you do not have or
need a neutral. It may well have the ground and "neutral" lug
bonded together where you attach the appliance cord. The odd
shaped prong will be the ground. There is no neutral.
Sometimes the colors may be Black (hot), Red (hot), Green or
bare (ground). Very often the colors will be Black (hot), White
(hot), Green or bare (ground). Kinda depends on what wire was
available at the supply house that day.

I hope this helps some. If you cannot follow the concepts,
please call an electrician.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Thomas Horne" wrote in
message ...
Chelsea wrote:
On Sep 6, 10:21 pm, Eric9822 wrote:
On Sep 6, 8:35 pm, Chelsea wrote:

I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3
prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped
prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is
the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?
thanks,
C
Are you converting a 220V 4 wire connected dryer to a 3 wire
conected
dryer? If so there is more then just changung the plug
involved.
There is a bonding jumper that needs to be added as well. If
not I
assume it's a gas dryer with a 110V plug based on the
description.
For 110V:

Black = Line Voltage
White = Neutral
Bare Copper or Green = Equipment Ground

No, I am not converting - I simply need a longer power cord -
so I am
going from three to three.

The cable you have purchased is unsuitable for use as flexible
cord. The cord for an electric dryer is only supposed to be six
feet in length. If you are moving the dryer you need to
relocate it's receptacle outlet closer to it's new location.
Ten gauge wire is the smallest that is suitable for use at
thirty amperes. Since all of the conductors in the appropriate
flexible cord would be insulated you could simply mark the
green wire red and use the white white as the neutral. Please
keep in mind that the white wire will be serving as both the
grounding conductor and the grounded current carrying
conductor. Take extra care with each connection less you
should someday find the frame of the dryer with 120 volts on
it.
--
Tom Horne

Chelsea wrote:

I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?

thanks,
C

Hook it up the same as the one you're replacing.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

DanG wrote:

snip
Current code and modern usage may require 110V for something on
the dryer/range/etc (no dryers of which I am aware need 110V).

My gas dryer has a 120 volt timer, igniter, and motor.


snip

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

Were you planning to hook it up to 220V?

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"CJT" wrote in message
...
DanG wrote:

snip
Current code and modern usage may require 110V for something on
the dryer/range/etc (no dryers of which I am aware need 110V).

My gas dryer has a 120 volt timer, igniter, and motor.


snip

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an
attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form
.

DanG wrote:

Were you planning to hook it up to 220V?

No, of course not.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

In article , "DanG" wrote:
You folks are sure scaring me. There is no neutral for 220
service. I don't care what the colors of the wire are.

The size of the wire is important. The shape of the plug is
important. The colors of the wire mean nothing, although green
and bare have become universally accepted for ground.

"Universally accepted"? Hardly.

In the United States and Canada, those colors are more than just
"accepted". They're mandated by Code. Ground conductors may be insulated green
or green with a yellow tracer, or uninsulated, and nothing else.

Outside North America, it may be very, very different.

Here may be
some of the confusion:
Current code and modern usage may require 110V for something on
the dryer/range/etc (no dryers of which I am aware need 110V).

Then you need to become more aware. Much more aware.

Gas dryers for residential use are always 120V.
"Apartment size" electric dryers are usually 120V.
Standard electric dryers have 120V motors and timers; only the heating
elements are 240V.

The 110V requires a neutral. 220 still does not use a neutral.

Only halfway right. A *pure* 240V load doesn't need a neutral, but an electric
dryer isn't a pure 240V load -- it's a 240V/120V load, due to the
above-mentioned motor and control circuits, and it *does* use a neutral.

This configuration wants four wires, four prongs on the plug - two
hots, a neutral, and a ground. The only reason for the neutral is
if (rarely) there is something on the appliance that uses 110V.

"Rarely"?? Now who's scaring whom? Electric dryers almost *always* have 120V
motors and timers, even when they have 240V heating elements.

These colors will often be red (hot), black (hot), white
(neutral), and green or bare (ground).

Older wiring will usually have a 3 wire connection. Two hots and
a ground.

Wrong. That's two hots and an "uninsulated neutral" which was permitted by
Code until quite recently.

If there is not 110V usage, you do not have or need a
neutral.

Tell me what electric dryers do not use 120V.

It may well have the ground and "neutral" lug bonded
together where you attach the appliance cord. The odd shaped
prong will be the ground. There is no neutral.

Wrong again.

Sometimes the
colors may be Black (hot), Red (hot), Green or bare (ground).
Very often the colors will be Black (hot), White (hot), Green or
bare (ground). Kinda depends on what wire was available at the
supply house that day.

Wrong again. Cable with only three wires in it is nearly always
black-white-green or black-white-bare. It doesn't depend on what was available
at the supply house that day. It depends on electrical codes -- which, among
other things, permit marking a white wire red or black to indicate that it's
used as a hot conductor instead of a neutral, but *prohibit* doing the
reverse. Which is why you won't see multiconductor cable that doesn't have a
white wire in it.

I hope this helps some.

It would help a lot more if it was right.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Chelsea wrote:
I am replacing the power cord to our dryer. The dryer is 3 prong.
The plug states to connect the white neutral to the l shaped prong.
The wire has 1. black 1.white and 1.copper inner wire. Is the white
neutral really the white wire, or is it the copper wire?


Get a heavy duty extension cord. Jeeze, why do I have to think of
everything?

Get a heavy duty extension cord. Jeeze, why do I have to think of
everything?


Dryers are not allowed to have 'extension' cords.

Most 220V. dryers in the US have 120 V. motors (and light bulbs).

The 4-wire wiring scheme is now mandatory for all new construction and
remodelling.

The 3-wire scheme is permitted to go on (grandfathered) if you are
not making major changes, which it sounds like you are. (A permitted
minor change would be simply installing a new dryer).

Slipshod jerry-rigging unapproved wires to a plug some 10 feet away is
not only asking for trouble, but it could be illegal, endanger you and
your family, start a fire that might burn your house down, and
invalidate your fire insurance should a post-fire investigation show
evidence of illegal wiring methods.

In article ,
(Beachcomber) wrote:

Get a heavy duty extension cord. Jeeze, why do I have to think of
everything?


Dryers are not allowed to have 'extension' cords.

Most 220V. dryers in the US have 120 V. motors (and light bulbs).

The 4-wire wiring scheme is now mandatory for all new construction and
remodelling.

The 3-wire scheme is permitted to go on (grandfathered) if you are
not making major changes, which it sounds like you are. (A permitted
minor change would be simply installing a new dryer).

Slipshod jerry-rigging unapproved wires to a plug some 10 feet away is
not only asking for trouble, but it could be illegal, endanger you and
your family, start a fire that might burn your house down, and
invalidate your fire insurance should a post-fire investigation show
evidence of illegal wiring methods.

Well, it doesn't matter now. The OP was a troll, and is long gone.