The plan is to run a single 20A (heck it could be 15A) circuit out to a boat
house on a fresh water lake up in the northern part of Michigan. The only
load in the boat house will be an exterior light and a GFI outlet for the
occassional power tool if needed. I figure on burying 10ga UF cable approx
2 feet deep for the 100ft run to the boat house.

Once inside the boat house, I was thinking of running BX up the exposed
studs and over to the light switch and then on to the light fixture.
Should I be concerned with any issues with corrosion with aluminum clad
armored cable? I guess the alternative could be to continue the UF cable
run inside the building stapled to the studs? Wasn't sure if critters might
try and eat an exposed UF cable.

Since people in the boat house are coming and going to the beach (i.e., wet
feet and hands), should I use a waterproof light switch even though it's
technically "indoors" ?

TIA

-- Paul

In article , "Paul" wrote:
The plan is to run a single 20A (heck it could be 15A) circuit out to a boat
house on a fresh water lake up in the northern part of Michigan. The only
load in the boat house will be an exterior light and a GFI outlet for the
occassional power tool if needed. I figure on burying 10ga UF cable approx
2 feet deep for the 100ft run to the boat house.

Once inside the boat house, I was thinking of running BX up the exposed
studs and over to the light switch and then on to the light fixture.
Should I be concerned with any issues with corrosion with aluminum clad
armored cable?

Perhaps, though the fact that it's a freshwater lake will certainly help.

I guess the alternative could be to continue the UF cable
run inside the building stapled to the studs? Wasn't sure if critters might
try and eat an exposed UF cable.

Meets code, but, yes, there is a possibilty of critters chewing on it.

Other options include liquidtight flexible conduit, or rigid nonmetallic
conduit (electrical PVC).

Since people in the boat house are coming and going to the beach (i.e., wet
feet and hands), should I use a waterproof light switch even though it's
technically "indoors" ?

I sure would. It would be a good idea to have the light switch protected by
the GFCI *also*.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Aug 8, 12:37 pm, "Paul" wrote:
The plan is to run a single 20A (heck it could be 15A) circuit out to a boat
house on a fresh water lake up in the northern part of Michigan. The only
load in the boat house will be an exterior light and a GFI outlet for the
occassional power tool if needed. I figure on burying 10ga UF cable approx
2 feet deep for the 100ft run to the boat house.

Once inside the boat house, I was thinking of running BX up the exposed
studs and over to the light switch and then on to the light fixture.
Should I be concerned with any issues with corrosion with aluminum clad
armored cable? I guess the alternative could be to continue the UF cable
run inside the building stapled to the studs? Wasn't sure if critters might
try and eat an exposed UF cable.

Since people in the boat house are coming and going to the beach (i.e., wet
feet and hands), should I use a waterproof light switch even though it's
technically "indoors" ?

TIA

-- Paul

If your going to go through the sheer hell of digging a 100 foot by 2
foot trench, I would run something heavier than 10GA. Maybe #8x4 wire
at the very least for all that digging effort, and a small 4 breaker
sub-panel where you can GFCI the whole building at once or have a
locking cutoff. Just in case you want to run more circuits later or
maybe a mercury vapor security light, etc. For that matter I'd
probably drop in cable TV and a phone line too, I just hate digging

"Paul" wrote in message
...
The plan is to run a single 20A (heck it could be 15A) circuit out to a
boat
house on a fresh water lake up in the northern part of Michigan. The only
load in the boat house will be an exterior light and a GFI outlet for the
occassional power tool if needed. I figure on burying 10ga UF cable
approx
2 feet deep for the 100ft run to the boat house.

Once inside the boat house, I was thinking of running BX up the exposed
studs and over to the light switch and then on to the light fixture.
Should I be concerned with any issues with corrosion with aluminum clad
armored cable? I guess the alternative could be to continue the UF cable
run inside the building stapled to the studs? Wasn't sure if critters
might
try and eat an exposed UF cable.

Since people in the boat house are coming and going to the beach (i.e.,
wet
feet and hands), should I use a waterproof light switch even though it's
technically "indoors" ?


The boat house might be considered a damp location. In which case MC cable
should be substituted for the AC (BX) cable. PVC conduit is also a good
choice. I would use the outdoor switch and you might want to put everything
on the GFI.

On Wed, 8 Aug 2007 13:37:08 -0400, "Paul"
wrote:

Since people in the boat house are coming and going to the beach (i.e., wet
feet and hands), should I use a waterproof light switch even though it's
technically "indoors" ?

TIA

-- Paul

At the borg locate outdoor boxes for receptacles, They also have a
toggle switch plate (wet areas) I used these in patio columns around
my pool.

Look in the landscape lighting section. In this case I like the
mention of the switch on GFCI.

Any worthy fish in this lake?

--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."

"RickH" ...
On Aug 8, 12:37 pm, "Paul" wrote:
The plan is to run a single 20A (heck it could be 15A) circuit out to a
boat
house on a fresh water lake up in the northern part of Michigan. The
only
load in the boat house will be an exterior light and a GFI outlet for
the
occassional power tool if needed. I figure on burying 10ga UF cable
approx
2 feet deep for the 100ft run to the boat house.

Once inside the boat house, I was thinking of running BX up the exposed
studs and over to the light switch and then on to the light fixture.
Should I be concerned with any issues with corrosion with aluminum clad
armored cable? I guess the alternative could be to continue the UF
cable
run inside the building stapled to the studs? Wasn't sure if critters
might
try and eat an exposed UF cable.

Since people in the boat house are coming and going to the beach (i.e.,
wet
feet and hands), should I use a waterproof light switch even though
it's
technically "indoors" ?

TIA
-- Paul

If your going to go through the sheer hell of digging a 100 foot by 2
foot trench, I would run something heavier than 10GA. Maybe #8x4 wire
at the very least for all that digging effort, and a small 4 breaker
sub-panel where you can GFCI the whole building at once or have a
locking cutoff. Just in case you want to run more circuits later or
maybe a mercury vapor security light, etc. For that matter I'd
probably drop in cable TV and a phone line too, I just hate digging

This is good advice as I see it. When I dug an underground electric line
at the old house for an above ground pool I ran phone and cable in the
same trench. Later on I hooked them both up. It would never have been
there later on if I did not add those lines when the trench was there.
Tomes

On Wed, 8 Aug 2007 13:37:08 -0400, "Paul"
wrote:


Since people in the boat house are coming and going to the beach (i.e., wet
feet and hands), should I use a waterproof light switch even though it's
technically "indoors" ?

Sure. Why not? Plus the GFI.

You give good reasons why.