I will have egress windows cut into my cement basement walls for a
major remodel, will use a standard 48" x 48" slider or casement.

Two contractors told me they simply frame the new concrete opening
with 2 inch "green pressure treated lumber" and then set the window.
There may be a bit more lumber for the header "to align with basement
ceiling" or structural needs, but other than that all there will be is
a single board between the cement and window frame.

(FYI... my city does require an engineers document specifying any
structural header needs in order for the city to give me a permit to
cut two big holds in my basement wall. So that bit will be taken care
of.)

But just a single 2" board sounds too fast and easy. Is there a
"proper" way or am I just use to doing things the hard way?

Thx
Dave-in-Denver

On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 23:23:23 -0700, Dave in Denver
wrote:

I will have egress windows cut into my cement basement walls for a
major remodel, will use a standard 48" x 48" slider or casement.

Two contractors told me they simply frame the new concrete opening
with 2 inch "green pressure treated lumber" and then set the window.
There may be a bit more lumber for the header "to align with basement
ceiling" or structural needs, but other than that all there will be is
a single board between the cement and window frame.

(FYI... my city does require an engineers document specifying any
structural header needs in order for the city to give me a permit to
cut two big holds in my basement wall. So that bit will be taken care
of.)

But just a single 2" board sounds too fast and easy. Is there a
"proper" way or am I just use to doing things the hard way?

Thx
Dave-in-Denver

For the sides and bottom, I'd say a 2X? would be OK. I'm wondering how
much shrinkage a PT piece will have if it is not dried some first.

For the top, your engineers document will tell you what is really
needed. Probably a standardized header across the top.

"PeterD" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 23:23:23 -0700, Dave in Denver
wrote:

I will have egress windows cut into my cement basement walls for a
major remodel, will use a standard 48" x 48" slider or casement.

Two contractors told me they simply frame the new concrete opening
with 2 inch "green pressure treated lumber" and then set the window.
There may be a bit more lumber for the header "to align with basement
ceiling" or structural needs, but other than that all there will be is
a single board between the cement and window frame.

(FYI... my city does require an engineers document specifying any
structural header needs in order for the city to give me a permit to
cut two big holds in my basement wall. So that bit will be taken care
of.)

But just a single 2" board sounds too fast and easy. Is there a
"proper" way or am I just use to doing things the hard way?

Thx
Dave-in-Denver

For the sides and bottom, I'd say a 2X? would be OK. I'm wondering how
much shrinkage a PT piece will have if it is not dried some first.

For the top, your engineers document will tell you what is really
needed. Probably a standardized header across the top.

Something to "suggest" to your contractor. For the small amount of PT
needed for the window framing, have him buy it from one of the big box
stores that store their materials indoors. The PT will have already had a
chance to dry out some which will minimize shrinkage and air infiltration
down the road....and be sure to have him use an expanding PU foam between
the PT and the concrete to seal any irregularities in the opening.

On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 23:23:23 -0700, Dave in Denver
wrote:

I will have egress windows cut into my cement basement walls for a
major remodel, will use a standard 48" x 48" slider or casement.

Two contractors told me they simply frame the new concrete opening
with 2 inch "green pressure treated lumber" and then set the window.
There may be a bit more lumber for the header "to align with basement
ceiling" or structural needs, but other than that all there will be is
a single board between the cement and window frame.

(FYI... my city does require an engineers document specifying any
structural header needs in order for the city to give me a permit to
cut two big holds in my basement wall. So that bit will be taken care
of.)

But just a single 2" board sounds too fast and easy. Is there a
"proper" way or am I just use to doing things the hard way?

Thx
Dave-in-Denver

Could you post that 'engineers document' you refer to? I'd like to
see it.

You seem to have something in your head already about what should be
done. Tell us what you think.

On Wed, 18 Jul 2007 10:09:16 -0400, "v8z" wrote:


"PeterD" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 23:23:23 -0700, Dave in Denver
wrote:

I will have egress windows cut into my cement basement walls for a
major remodel, will use a standard 48" x 48" slider or casement.

Two contractors told me they simply frame the new concrete opening
with 2 inch "green pressure treated lumber" and then set the window.
There may be a bit more lumber for the header "to align with basement
ceiling" or structural needs, but other than that all there will be is
a single board between the cement and window frame.

(FYI... my city does require an engineers document specifying any
structural header needs in order for the city to give me a permit to
cut two big holds in my basement wall. So that bit will be taken care
of.)

But just a single 2" board sounds too fast and easy. Is there a
"proper" way or am I just use to doing things the hard way?

Thx
Dave-in-Denver

For the sides and bottom, I'd say a 2X? would be OK. I'm wondering how
much shrinkage a PT piece will have if it is not dried some first.

For the top, your engineers document will tell you what is really
needed. Probably a standardized header across the top.

Something to "suggest" to your contractor. For the small amount of PT
needed for the window framing, have him buy it from one of the big box
stores that store their materials indoors. The PT will have already had a
chance to dry out some which will minimize shrinkage and air infiltration
down the road....and be sure to have him use an expanding PU foam between
the PT and the concrete to seal any irregularities in the opening.


Good suggestion. I try to keep a few pieces of 2x8 PT on hand, dried
out as much as possible for stuff like this, but HD (and Lowes)
keeping their stuff inside can be very useful, especially if one's
timing is good... g

On Wed, 18 Jul 2007 09:33:45 -0500, valvejob wrote:

On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 23:23:23 -0700, Dave in Denver
wrote:


(FYI... my city does require an engineers document specifying any
structural header needs in order for the city to give me a permit to
cut two big holds in my basement wall. So that bit will be taken care
of.)


Could you post that 'engineers document' you refer to? I'd like to
see it.


I think what the OP was referring to is an engineer's report
certifying that the modifications are structurally sound. I'm sure
(but could be wrong) that the OP has not done this yet.

Actually you want kiln dried if you want the best.

Buy the way, he should not be cutting into the sill plate. Make sure he
doesn't.


"PeterD" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Jul 2007 10:09:16 -0400, "v8z" wrote:


"PeterD" wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 23:23:23 -0700, Dave in Denver
wrote:

I will have egress windows cut into my cement basement walls for a
major remodel, will use a standard 48" x 48" slider or casement.

Two contractors told me they simply frame the new concrete opening
with 2 inch "green pressure treated lumber" and then set the window.
There may be a bit more lumber for the header "to align with basement
ceiling" or structural needs, but other than that all there will be is
a single board between the cement and window frame.

(FYI... my city does require an engineers document specifying any
structural header needs in order for the city to give me a permit to
cut two big holds in my basement wall. So that bit will be taken care
of.)

But just a single 2" board sounds too fast and easy. Is there a
"proper" way or am I just use to doing things the hard way?

Thx
Dave-in-Denver

For the sides and bottom, I'd say a 2X? would be OK. I'm wondering how
much shrinkage a PT piece will have if it is not dried some first.

For the top, your engineers document will tell you what is really
needed. Probably a standardized header across the top.

Something to "suggest" to your contractor. For the small amount of PT
needed for the window framing, have him buy it from one of the big box
stores that store their materials indoors. The PT will have already had a
chance to dry out some which will minimize shrinkage and air infiltration
down the road....and be sure to have him use an expanding PU foam between
the PT and the concrete to seal any irregularities in the opening.


Good suggestion. I try to keep a few pieces of 2x8 PT on hand, dried
out as much as possible for stuff like this, but HD (and Lowes)
keeping their stuff inside can be very useful, especially if one's
timing is good... g

On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 23:23:23 -0700, Dave in Denver
wrote:

I will have egress windows cut into my cement basement walls for a
major remodel, will use a standard 48" x 48" slider or casement.

Personally, I would pick the slider.


Two contractors told me they simply frame the new concrete opening
with 2 inch "green pressure treated lumber" and then set the window.
There may be a bit more lumber for the header "to align with basement
ceiling" or structural needs, but other than that all there will be is
a single board between the cement and window frame.

They will cut the wall; larger than necessary, so the RO (rough
opening can be framed for the window. You want this RO, sized for the
window you pick. The framer needs to ensure the RO is big enough (and
square) . My exterior framed walls are 2X6....

--
Oren

"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"

On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 23:23:23 -0700, someone wrote:

But just a single 2" board sounds too fast and easy.

Why, what's wrong with it?

So ask for a method of your liking that is slow and hard, and then
they'll know you are easily ripped off by bull****.



Reply to NG only - this e.mail address goes to a kill file.

Could you post that 'engineers document' you refer to? I'd like to
see it.

Do not have engineers doc yet and of course I expect it to be detailed
about header requirements. But I will ask them also about typical
frame solutions too.
Thx

You seem to have something in your head already about what should be
done. Tell us what you think.

Well... not knowing what is needed is why I posted... but I thought
there would be some way of accommodating the weatherseal "fin" rather
than flat mounting the vinyl window directly on a single layer of PT.
Maybe something like a 1" PT layer next to the concrete (bolted/glued/
etc.) then a layer of 2x4 and 2x6 side by side with a 1/8" gap for the
"fin". And something like a "finish" or trim layer on top of that on
the inside. But, again, as you can tell.... I do not know what is
usual so I am asking people who know.

Thx
Dave-in-Denver

On Jul 18, 11:41 pm, (v) wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 23:23:23 -0700, someone wrote:
But just a single 2" board sounds too fast and easy.

Why, what's wrong with it?

So ask for a method of your liking that is slow and hard, and then
they'll know you are easily ripped off by bull****.

Reply to NG only - this e.mail address goes to a kill file.

Sorry all, newby screw up.
Dave-in-Denver

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 18:37:15 -0000, Dave in Denver
wrote:


Could you post that 'engineers document' you refer to? I'd like to
see it.

Do not have engineers doc yet and of course I expect it to be detailed
about header requirements. But I will ask them also about typical
frame solutions too.
Thx

You seem to have something in your head already about what should be
done. Tell us what you think.

Well... not knowing what is needed is why I posted... but I thought
there would be some way of accommodating the weatherseal "fin" rather
than flat mounting the vinyl window directly on a single layer of PT.
Maybe something like a 1" PT layer next to the concrete (bolted/glued/
etc.) then a layer of 2x4 and 2x6 side by side with a 1/8" gap for the
"fin". And something like a "finish" or trim layer on top of that on
the inside. But, again, as you can tell.... I do not know what is
usual so I am asking people who know.

Thx
Dave-in-Denver

You do good work.

I actually prefer your method although I suspect the window will
remain functional for 40 years using either method.

Well... not knowing what is needed is why I posted... but I thought
there would be some way of accommodating the weatherseal "fin" rather
than flat mounting the vinyl window directly on a single layer of PT.
Maybe something like a 1" PT layer next to the concrete (bolted/glued/
etc.) then a layer of 2x4 and 2x6 side by side with a 1/8" gap for the
"fin". And something like a "finish" or trim layer on top of that on
the inside. But, again, as you can tell.... I do not know what is
usual so I am asking people who know.


You do good work.

I actually prefer your method although I suspect the window will
remain functional for 40 years using either method.

Well thanks. But it sounds like my method is just overkill.
We'll see if the engineer has recommendations and find the right
middle ground.

Thx all!
Dave-in-Denver