Hi all,

what could possibly have gone wrong? this past weekend I patched a
couple spots in my driveway with Sakrete brand cold patch, exactly per
directions - one "hole" was actually just an asphalt skin that had
peeled up, a couple other spots I needed to dig away all the old rotten
asphalt all the way to the base, in those cases I dug all the base up,
screened the gravel out, made a new gravel base, and finished with about
1.5" to 2" of cold patch (deeper than the asphalt that was there
before!) I used it exactly per directions, squared the edges of all
holes, never put it down less than 1" or more than 4" thick, tamped it
by hand with a 8" square steel tamper until it wouldn't compress down
any more. After a day or so it was mostly hard so I figured all was
good. Today I came home from work and it is SOFT! Not sure why, except
it was up to about 80 degrees, but it is cool and rainy now. It still
won't tamp down any more, but if I just touch it with my hand and push
laterally, it moves like there's next to no adhesion at all. What the
heck do I do now? I was hoping that I could seal the driveway later
this summer, but if these patches don't work, what's the point?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Call Sakrete. They probably know more about their product than anyone here.
"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

what could possibly have gone wrong? this past weekend I patched a couple
spots in my driveway with Sakrete brand cold patch, exactly per
directions - one "hole" was actually just an asphalt skin that had peeled
up, a couple other spots I needed to dig away all the old rotten asphalt
all the way to the base, in those cases I dug all the base up, screened
the gravel out, made a new gravel base, and finished with about 1.5" to 2"
of cold patch (deeper than the asphalt that was there before!) I used it
exactly per directions, squared the edges of all holes, never put it down
less than 1" or more than 4" thick, tamped it by hand with a 8" square
steel tamper until it wouldn't compress down any more. After a day or so
it was mostly hard so I figured all was good. Today I came home from work
and it is SOFT! Not sure why, except it was up to about 80 degrees, but
it is cool and rainy now. It still won't tamp down any more, but if I
just touch it with my hand and push laterally, it moves like there's next
to no adhesion at all. What the heck do I do now? I was hoping that I
could seal the driveway later this summer, but if these patches don't
work, what's the point?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Nate Nagel wrote in
:

Hi all,

what could possibly have gone wrong? this past weekend I patched a
couple spots in my driveway with Sakrete brand cold patch, exactly per
directions - one "hole" was actually just an asphalt skin that had
peeled up, a couple other spots I needed to dig away all the old rotten
asphalt all the way to the base, in those cases I dug all the base up,
screened the gravel out, made a new gravel base, and finished with about
1.5" to 2" of cold patch (deeper than the asphalt that was there
before!) I used it exactly per directions, squared the edges of all
holes, never put it down less than 1" or more than 4" thick, tamped it
by hand with a 8" square steel tamper until it wouldn't compress down
any more. After a day or so it was mostly hard so I figured all was
good. Today I came home from work and it is SOFT! Not sure why, except
it was up to about 80 degrees, but it is cool and rainy now. It still
won't tamp down any more, but if I just touch it with my hand and push
laterally, it moves like there's next to no adhesion at all. What the
heck do I do now? I was hoping that I could seal the driveway later
this summer, but if these patches don't work, what's the point?

nate


You might try putting a steel plate or thick plywood sheet over the patch
and driving your car or truck(heavier the better) over it to compress the
patch.You'll get more pressure that way.

It's probably soft because the volatiles in the material BELOW the surface
have not dissipated yet,and the 80 degF heat causes more volatiles to
evaporate and soften the surface material.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Toller" wrote in
:

Call Sakrete. They probably know more about their product than anyone
here.


Or maybe they have a website with a FAQ.

the Internet is a GREAT resource.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik wrote:
"Toller" wrote in
:


Call Sakrete. They probably know more about their product than anyone
here.



Or maybe they have a website with a FAQ.

the Internet is a GREAT resource.


ACtually, no, I tried that. I mean, they do have a website with a FAQ
but nothing that addresses any non-concrete products.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

"Clark" wrote in message
...
Jim Yanik wrote in news:Xns9932CE8061A20jyanikkuanet@
64.209.0.87:

[snip]

You might try putting a steel plate or thick plywood sheet over the patch
and driving your car or truck(heavier the better) over it to compress the
patch.You'll get more pressure that way.

Just how much pressure do you think a car or truck tire exerts?

1/4 of the vehicles weight?

On 17 May 2007 01:05:59 GMT, Clark wrote:

Jim Yanik wrote in news:Xns9932CE8061A20jyanikkuanet@
64.209.0.87:

[snip]

You might try putting a steel plate or thick plywood sheet over the patch
and driving your car or truck(heavier the better) over it to compress the
patch.You'll get more pressure that way.

Just how much pressure do you think a car or truck tire exerts?

About 30 pounds per square inch, although here it was recommended to
put a plate or plywood sheet over the patch, so the weight would be
spread out more.

I have no idea how much hand tamping does, but it's spread out too to
8 inches square, he said.


We have a lot of holes in our n'hood too. Does this cold patch work
pretty well most of the time. I saw a car recommended for when one
has no tamper. Is that good enough or, when I pull away, will the
black stuff go up on my fender and stick there?

[snip]

Clark wrote:
...

Yup, about the tire pressure and that is the key. The weight of the
vehicle is less of a concern than the tire pressure. Although a
heavier vehicle would give a larger contact area for a given tire
pressure.

Well, not exactly. Let's say you have 40 psi in the typical car tyre.
Making that 100 psi (if the tyre does not pop) and you would likely have
very little difference in contact area because the tyre shape is determined
by the tyre pressure and the tyre construction. Even with no pressure in
the tyre there will be pressure on the surface. So while pressure is part of
the game, it is not the only and maybe not even the principle player.

The standard method is to place a board or steel plate over the patch
and drive a car or truck over it. In that case tyre pressure makes zero
difference


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

"Noozer" wrote in
news:rAP2i.187977$DE1.44985@pd7urf2no:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
Jim Yanik wrote in
news:Xns9932CE8061A20jyanikkuanet@ 64.209.0.87:

[snip]

You might try putting a steel plate or thick plywood sheet over the
patch and driving your car or truck(heavier the better) over it to
compress the patch.You'll get more pressure that way.

Just how much pressure do you think a car or truck tire exerts?

a lot more than what a person can put on the patch,even with a tamper.


1/4 of the vehicles weight?

More if it's a front wheel drive auto,they generally have a 60-40 weight
distibution.


It's simply a version of a steamroller.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in
:

Clark wrote:
..

Yup, about the tire pressure and that is the key. The weight of the
vehicle is less of a concern than the tire pressure. Although a
heavier vehicle would give a larger contact area for a given tire
pressure.

Well, not exactly. Let's say you have 40 psi in the typical car
tyre.
Making that 100 psi (if the tyre does not pop) and you would likely
have very little difference in contact area because the tyre shape is
determined by the tyre pressure and the tyre construction. Even with
no pressure in the tyre there will be pressure on the surface. So
while pressure is part of the game, it is not the only and maybe not
even the principle player.

The standard method is to place a board or steel plate over the
patch
and drive a car or truck over it. In that case tyre pressure makes
zero difference



a FWD auto usually has approximately 60-40 weight distribution,front to
rear.
that's 1800 lbs for the front wheels,divide by two,and you get 900 lbs
pressure on the plate.Since you slightly crowned the cold patch,all that
pressure is compressing it. The plate is to give an even distribution of
pressure on the patch,since the tire contact patch will deflect with the
uneven surface of the patch.

And you can leave that pressure ON the patch as long as you want,while a
tamper gives only a brief pressure.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik wrote in
:

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in
:

Clark wrote:
..

Yup, about the tire pressure and that is the key. The weight of the
vehicle is less of a concern than the tire pressure. Although a
heavier vehicle would give a larger contact area for a given tire
pressure.

Well, not exactly. Let's say you have 40 psi in the typical car
tyre.
Making that 100 psi (if the tyre does not pop) and you would likely
have very little difference in contact area because the tyre shape is
determined by the tyre pressure and the tyre construction. Even with
no pressure in the tyre there will be pressure on the surface. So
while pressure is part of the game, it is not the only and maybe not
even the principle player.

The standard method is to place a board or steel plate over the
patch
and drive a car or truck over it. In that case tyre pressure makes
zero difference



a FWD auto usually has approximately 60-40 weight distribution,front to
rear.

I forgot to type;

For a 3000 lb auto,

that's 1800 lbs for the front wheels,divide by two,and you get 900 lbs
pressure on the plate.Since you slightly crowned the cold patch,all that
pressure is compressing it. The plate is to give an even distribution of
pressure on the patch,since the tire contact patch will deflect with the
uneven surface of the patch.

And you can leave that pressure ON the patch as long as you want,while a
tamper gives only a brief pressure.





--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik wrote:
Nate Nagel wrote in
:


Hi all,

what could possibly have gone wrong? this past weekend I patched a
couple spots in my driveway with Sakrete brand cold patch, exactly per
directions - one "hole" was actually just an asphalt skin that had
peeled up, a couple other spots I needed to dig away all the old rotten
asphalt all the way to the base, in those cases I dug all the base up,
screened the gravel out, made a new gravel base, and finished with about
1.5" to 2" of cold patch (deeper than the asphalt that was there
before!) I used it exactly per directions, squared the edges of all
holes, never put it down less than 1" or more than 4" thick, tamped it
by hand with a 8" square steel tamper until it wouldn't compress down
any more. After a day or so it was mostly hard so I figured all was
good. Today I came home from work and it is SOFT! Not sure why, except
it was up to about 80 degrees, but it is cool and rainy now. It still
won't tamp down any more, but if I just touch it with my hand and push
laterally, it moves like there's next to no adhesion at all. What the
heck do I do now? I was hoping that I could seal the driveway later
this summer, but if these patches don't work, what's the point?

nate



You might try putting a steel plate or thick plywood sheet over the patch
and driving your car or truck(heavier the better) over it to compress the
patch.You'll get more pressure that way.

It's probably soft because the volatiles in the material BELOW the surface
have not dissipated yet,and the 80 degF heat causes more volatiles to
evaporate and soften the surface material.


Well, it's still soft... it's definitely the sun doing it. It's *way*
soft today, with the sun shining on the stuff, while yesterday it was
only "kinda" soft... Sakrete has not responded to my inquiry. Any
ideas what to do now? This is the only brand of cold patch I've been
able to find locally. It's been a full week since applying the patch.

thanks,

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

replying to Nate Nagel, Kris wrote:
njnagel wrote:

Hi all,
what could possibly have gone wrong? this past weekend I patched a
couple spots in my driveway with Sakrete brand cold patch, exactly per
directions - one "hole" was actually just an asphalt skin that had
peeled up, a couple other spots I needed to dig away all the old rotten
asphalt all the way to the base, in those cases I dug all the base up,
screened the gravel out, made a new gravel base, and finished with about
1.5" to 2" of cold patch (deeper than the asphalt that was there
before!) I used it exactly per directions, squared the edges of all
holes, never put it down less than 1" or more than 4" thick, tamped it
by hand with a 8" square steel tamper until it wouldn't compress down
any more. After a day or so it was mostly hard so I figured all was
good. Today I came home from work and it is SOFT! Not sure why, except
it was up to about 80 degrees, but it is cool and rainy now. It still
won't tamp down any more, but if I just touch it with my hand and push
laterally, it moves like there's next to no adhesion at all. What the
heck do I do now? I was hoping that I could seal the driveway later
this summer, but if these patches don't work, what's the point?
nate


I had the same problem with a product from quickcrete. I ended up calling
and
asking why there product was doing this? They told me it still had moister
in it
And throwing dry sand on it would draw out the moister! Then I had to wait
28
days before putting a sealer on it. Did you ever fix what was wrong?

--

On Friday, August 8, 2014 9:44:01 AM UTC-4, Kris wrote:
replying to Nate Nagel, Kris wrote:

njnagel wrote:



Hi all,

what could possibly have gone wrong? this past weekend I patched a

couple spots in my driveway with Sakrete brand cold patch, exactly per

directions - one "hole" was actually just an asphalt skin that had

peeled up, a couple other spots I needed to dig away all the old rotten

asphalt all the way to the base, in those cases I dug all the base up,

screened the gravel out, made a new gravel base, and finished with about

1.5" to 2" of cold patch (deeper than the asphalt that was there

before!) I used it exactly per directions, squared the edges of all

holes, never put it down less than 1" or more than 4" thick, tamped it

by hand with a 8" square steel tamper until it wouldn't compress down

any more. After a day or so it was mostly hard so I figured all was

good. Today I came home from work and it is SOFT! Not sure why, except

it was up to about 80 degrees, but it is cool and rainy now. It still

won't tamp down any more, but if I just touch it with my hand and push

laterally, it moves like there's next to no adhesion at all. What the

heck do I do now? I was hoping that I could seal the driveway later

this summer, but if these patches don't work, what's the point?

nate





I had the same problem with a product from quickcrete. I ended up calling

and

asking why there product was doing this? They told me it still had moister

in it

And throwing dry sand on it would draw out the moister! Then I had to wait

28

days before putting a sealer on it. Did you ever fix what was wrong?


sold the house a few years ago, so I can't give a long term report. But the patches did eventually firm up. Company never did reply to my inquiry but after a long time they did set and we were able to seal the driveway so it looked pretty good. Not as good as a proper mill and repave, but good enough that it didn't look as awful as it did when we first moved in, which was the goal.

replying to N8N, Patch man wrote:
Very simple. It needs curing time. 30 to 90 days.

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ch-217944-.htm

On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 12:44:06 PM UTC-4, Patch man wrote:
replying to N8N, Patch man wrote:
Very simple. It needs curing time. 30 to 90 days.


It's been 3,347 days since Nate posted his question. If it's not cured
by now, he's got a problem.

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...



On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 12:44:06 PM UTC-4, Patch man wrote:
replying to N8N, Patch man wrote:
Very simple. It needs curing time. 30 to 90 days.


It's been 3,347 days since Nate posted his question. If it's not cured
by now, he's got a problem.

It was cold patch. it was quicksand and Nate has never been seen again.

--
Tekkie

replying to Nate Nagel, protohome wrote:
so, cold patch asphalt has a bit of a marketing scam to it. It doesn't really
'harden' for weeks and weeks. It loses its tacky ness fast so you can drive on
it, but its not hard. Its really only good for holes in flat parts of blacktop
that will not have wheels TURNING (moving steering wheel) on it. Any other
scenarios ( unless you buy that 45 dollar a bag stuff) you will have problems.
Here is what you can do to turn it into something rock hard in 2 days: get
whatever brand you want of cold patch. Also buy vehicle strength (high
strength) concrete, such as quickcrete Q max or similar, also some asphalt
liquid crack filler and some asphalt quick dry skim coat material (latex-tite
makes these products as an example you can get it at HD). Now if you are
putting this down fresh you can skip the liquid crack filler, but if you have
already put it down and need it to harden, then buy the filler. So for those
putting it down fresh follow the instruction of the cold patch EXCEPT mix in
about 4-5 cups of dry concrete per bag and DO NOT fill patch over the area,
fill it level or 1/8 inch under sized. Lay down, compress by running your car
over it and then lightly water it (not too much 1/2 gallon per bag) to
activate the concrete. Give it about 45 minutes. Then liberally sprinkle dry
concrete over the top and mist it with your hose for a few seconds, give it a
day or at a minimum until the concrete has its minimum cure strength time (4-6
hours it will say on the bag). IF you have already put the cold patch down and
you are unable to mix in the concrete you will be using the liquid crack
filler before you sprinkle the concrete on top. go around the perimeter of the
hole you are filling and just touching the outside of the hole until about 2
inches into your patch, pour the liquid filler. lightly push this into the
cold patch. This will stabilize the edges from chipping due to car tires
hitting it. Give it 20 minutes and go to the sprinkle concrete on top step.
Once your top has harden this material should be pretty darn strong and not
move. However, it will look off color and it may still chip over time. This is
were the skim coat comes in. Follow the directions and trowel it on to cover
the patch. This material goes quickly BTW. Make sure you cover the edges of
the hole at a minimum, overlapping the good blacktop about 1/4 inch. The skim
coat will protect against chipping and wear and make it look good. This method
can be used on gentle slopes and areas of turning. A note, this method costs a
little bit more, but if you plan on buying the super high quality 45 dollars a
bag stuff, if you are going to use 3 or more bags, my method is cheaper and
hardens faster. 3 bags of 45 is 135 and my method will cost about 60-75 per 3.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ch-217944-.htm