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#1
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Connecting Extension Cords
I'm hoping someone can answer a questions about the best way to
connect two extension cords. Both are 50' long. One is made of 14/3 wires. The other is made with 12/3 wires. My question is which one should be connected closest to the wall plug? The heavier gauge cord or should that be the one on the end of the connection as it would have less resistence? Any comments and recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks, Frank |
#2
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Connecting Extension Cords
Doesn't make any difference. I just hope you won't be putting too big a
load through it. wrote in message oups.com... I'm hoping someone can answer a questions about the best way to connect two extension cords. Both are 50' long. One is made of 14/3 wires. The other is made with 12/3 wires. My question is which one should be connected closest to the wall plug? The heavier gauge cord or should that be the one on the end of the connection as it would have less resistence? Any comments and recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks, Frank |
#3
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Connecting Extension Cords
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#4
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Connecting Extension Cords
My question is which one
should be connected closest to the wall plug? (At the risk of starting another "run or walk through rain" controversy Series AC impedance (unlike DC resistance) is minimized by ordering the segment impedance to increase towards the load. So put the 14/3 after the 12/3 if you want to be perfect about it. But the AC impedance effect is trivial in this situation, so it doesn't really matter. |
#5
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Connecting Extension Cords
In article , Richard J Kinch wrote:
My question is which one should be connected closest to the wall plug? (At the risk of starting another "run or walk through rain" controversy Actually, that one *does* make a noticeable difference, unlike the extension cords. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#6
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Connecting Extension Cords
"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message . .. My question is which one should be connected closest to the wall plug? (At the risk of starting another "run or walk through rain" controversy Series AC impedance (unlike DC resistance) is minimized by ordering the segment impedance to increase towards the load. So put the 14/3 after the 12/3 if you want to be perfect about it. But the AC impedance effect is trivial in this situation, so it doesn't really matter. Then why did you mention it? |
#7
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Connecting Extension Cords
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#9
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Connecting Extension Cords
In article , Charlie Morgan wrote:
Unless the device you need to power draws very little power and doesn't care about voltage, you really should get a proper 10/3 100 foot extension cord. Just the 50 foot 14/3 is going to have significant losses from end to end. Ummmmm.... 14ga copper wire has a resistance of 2.58 milliohms per foot, or 129 milliohms in fifty feet. Just how much of a loss do you suppose that's going to cause? -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#10
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Connecting Extension Cords
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Electrically, it's all the same. They are in series Ummmm.. no. Plugging one into the other constitutes a junction point, nothing more. |
#11
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Connecting Extension Cords
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , Charlie Morgan wrote: Unless the device you need to power draws very little power and doesn't care about voltage, you really should get a proper 10/3 100 foot extension cord. Just the 50 foot 14/3 is going to have significant losses from end to end. Ummmmm.... 14ga copper wire has a resistance of 2.58 milliohms per foot, or 129 milliohms in fifty feet. Just how much of a loss do you suppose that's going to cause? That's 258 milliohms per 50 feet (there's two conductors) It's enough to sometimes cause a 1.5 HP capacitor-start motor to fail to start. BTDT. It's probably not significant for anything else. Bob |
#12
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Connecting Extension Cords
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... I was going to say "wire nuts" but he probably wants to use the cords again. I like your logic, to put the lighter cord out where it's moving around. Electrically, it's all the same. They are in series. Lordy. Go to Sams Club or wherever, spend 30 or 40 bucks, and get a proper 100-foot contractor cord. That is what I did when I noticed the connectors on the strung-together cords I was using were getting rather warm to the touch. It is heavy, so it is a workout rolling it up and carrying it, but all the connections stay nice and cool now. Plus, the GFCI doesn't trip any more. aem sends.... |
#13
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Connecting Extension Cords
On Apr 29, 1:10 am, wrote:
I'm hoping someone can answer a questions about the best way to connect two extension cords. Both are 50' long. One is made of 14/3 wires. The other is made with 12/3 wires. My question is which one should be connected closest to the wall plug? The heavier gauge cord or should that be the one on the end of the connection as it would have less resistence? Any comments and recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks, Frank No difference, from theoretical electrical viewpoint. And assuming the voltage is nominal 115 volts. What are the 12/3 or 14/3 extension cords to be used to power? If it's a single 60 watt inspection lamp bulb, volt drop insignificant. To try and power a 3 HP compressor or something which has an ampere load exceeding the rated ampacity of #14 AWG, possibly major volt drop problems especially during motor starts. |
#14
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Connecting Extension Cords
Thanks for the quick replies. I appreciate the information. This is
for a fence repair project so I'll be using the cords to power a battery charger (drill and screw driver) and a portable circular saw (about 13 amps) for short periods of time (long enough to cut 4" x 3/4" cedar boards to length). |
#15
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Connecting Extension Cords
wrote in message ups.com... Thanks for the quick replies. I appreciate the information. This is for a fence repair project so I'll be using the cords to power a battery charger (drill and screw driver) and a portable circular saw (about 13 amps) for short periods of time (long enough to cut 4" x 3/4" cedar boards to length). Is it a 15a or 20a circuit? How far is the outlet from the breaker box? I wouldn't run a 13a saw on it unless it was a 20a circuit close to the breaker box. Charger should be fine... |
#16
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Connecting Extension Cords
"Doug Miller" wrote in message t... In article , Charlie Morgan wrote: Unless the device you need to power draws very little power and doesn't care about voltage, you really should get a proper 10/3 100 foot extension cord. Just the 50 foot 14/3 is going to have significant losses from end to end. Ummmmm.... 14ga copper wire has a resistance of 2.58 milliohms per foot, or 129 milliohms in fifty feet. Just how much of a loss do you suppose that's going to cause? Depends on how much an energy hog the equipment is. Putting a 14/3 25' extensions cord on a small air compressor can cause blown breakers where no extension cord causes no problem. For a normal 3/8" drill you would probably not notice much of a difference at 100' if you were not working at the limit of the drill. |
#17
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Connecting Extension Cords
wrote in message ups.com... Thanks for the quick replies. I appreciate the information. This is for a fence repair project so I'll be using the cords to power a battery charger (drill and screw driver) and a portable circular saw (about 13 amps) for short periods of time (long enough to cut 4" x 3/4" cedar boards to length). You might get by with it. If you measure what you need and cut the boards at the house you will have no problem at all and you will have less weight to carry all the way back to the fence. |
#18
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Connecting Extension Cords
Toller wrote:
wrote in message ups.com... Thanks for the quick replies. I appreciate the information. This is for a fence repair project so I'll be using the cords to power a battery charger (drill and screw driver) and a portable circular saw (about 13 amps) for short periods of time (long enough to cut 4" x 3/4" cedar boards to length). Is it a 15a or 20a circuit? How far is the outlet from the breaker box? I wouldn't run a 13a saw on it unless it was a 20a circuit close to the breaker box. Charger should be fine... Circular saws have universal motors. They handle low voltage much better than induction motors. Should be fine. If he uses it continuously, the connections may get hot, but nobody uses a portable saw that way. Why wouldn't you run a 13A load on a 15A circuit (assuming the circuit wasn't already heavily loaded)? Bob |
#19
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Connecting Extension Cords
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#21
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Connecting Extension Cords
Richard J Kinch wrote:
My question is which one should be connected closest to the wall plug? (At the risk of starting another "run or walk through rain" controversy Series AC impedance (unlike DC resistance) is minimized by ordering the segment impedance to increase towards the load. So put the 14/3 after the 12/3 if you want to be perfect about it. But the AC impedance effect is trivial in this situation, so it doesn't really matter. In other words, you're blatherskiting and have no intention of helping the OP but if you cause a little confusion, that's OK? Dumb! |
#22
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Connecting Extension Cords
zxcvbob wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In article , Charlie Morgan wrote: Unless the device you need to power draws very little power and doesn't care about voltage, you really should get a proper 10/3 100 foot extension cord. Just the 50 foot 14/3 is going to have significant losses from end to end. Ummmmm.... 14ga copper wire has a resistance of 2.58 milliohms per foot, or 129 milliohms in fifty feet. Just how much of a loss do you suppose that's going to cause? That's 258 milliohms per 50 feet (there's two conductors) It's enough to sometimes cause a 1.5 HP capacitor-start motor to fail to start. BTDT. It's probably not significant for anything else. Bob Makes an electric stapler pretty sloggy, nailer won't even think about getting near its potential. |
#23
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Connecting Extension Cords
Terry wrote:
On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 03:00:39 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote: In article , Charlie Morgan wrote: Unless the device you need to power draws very little power and doesn't care about voltage, you really should get a proper 10/3 100 foot extension cord. Just the 50 foot 14/3 is going to have significant losses from end to end. Ummmmm.... 14ga copper wire has a resistance of 2.58 milliohms per foot, or 129 milliohms in fifty feet. Just how much of a loss do you suppose that's going to cause? That would be 258. VD on a 13A load would be 13 * .258 = 3.35V Add the house wiring back to the panel, plus the increased current needed by a motor runing/starting at optimal voltage and you get quite a decent drop. |
#24
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Connecting Extension Cords
On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 16:37:38 GMT, "Pop`"
wrote: Terry wrote: On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 03:00:39 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote: In article , Charlie Morgan wrote: Unless the device you need to power draws very little power and doesn't care about voltage, you really should get a proper 10/3 100 foot extension cord. Just the 50 foot 14/3 is going to have significant losses from end to end. Ummmmm.... 14ga copper wire has a resistance of 2.58 milliohms per foot, or 129 milliohms in fifty feet. Just how much of a loss do you suppose that's going to cause? That would be 258. VD on a 13A load would be 13 * .258 = 3.35V Add the house wiring back to the panel, plus the increased current needed by a motor runing/starting at optimal voltage and you get quite a decent drop. So what do you think he should do? Give us your 100$ answer. |
#25
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Connecting Extension Cords
Pop` wrote:
zxcvbob wrote: Doug Miller wrote: In article , Charlie Morgan wrote: Unless the device you need to power draws very little power and doesn't care about voltage, you really should get a proper 10/3 100 foot extension cord. Just the 50 foot 14/3 is going to have significant losses from end to end. Ummmmm.... 14ga copper wire has a resistance of 2.58 milliohms per foot, or 129 milliohms in fifty feet. Just how much of a loss do you suppose that's going to cause? That's 258 milliohms per 50 feet (there's two conductors) It's enough to sometimes cause a 1.5 HP capacitor-start motor to fail to start. BTDT. It's probably not significant for anything else. Bob Makes an electric stapler pretty sloggy, nailer won't even think about getting near its potential. I forgot about that one. It was actually the electric nailer that prompted me to make a short 12 gauge extension cord way back when. Bob |
#26
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Connecting Extension Cords
Terry wrote:
On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 03:00:39 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote: In article , Charlie Morgan wrote: Unless the device you need to power draws very little power and doesn't care about voltage, you really should get a proper 10/3 100 foot extension cord. Just the 50 foot 14/3 is going to have significant losses from end to end. Ummmmm.... 14ga copper wire has a resistance of 2.58 milliohms per foot, or 129 milliohms in fifty feet. Just how much of a loss do you suppose that's going to cause? That would be 258. VD on a 13A load would be 13 * .258 = 3.35V In other words, pretty insignificant. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#27
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Connecting Extension Cords
Pop` writes:
In other words, you're blatherskiting and have no intention of helping the OP but if you cause a little confusion, that's OK? No, I gave a detailed answer and the practical implications. If you want to be stupid about how things work, fine. |
#28
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Connecting Extension Cords
Should work just fine for that low load charger. And the
intermittent saw. -- Christopher A. Young You can't shout down a troll. You have to starve them. .. wrote in message ups.com... : Thanks for the quick replies. I appreciate the information. This is : for a fence repair project so I'll be using the cords to power a : battery charger (drill and screw driver) and a portable circular saw : (about 13 amps) for short periods of time (long enough to cut 4" x : 3/4" cedar boards to length). : |
#29
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Connecting Extension Cords
Only draws 13 amps under full load. Just feed the saw in slowly,
so it doesn't bog down too much. Slow cuts will take less amperage. -- Christopher A. Young You can't shout down a troll. You have to starve them. .. "Toller" wrote in message ... : : wrote in message : ups.com... : Thanks for the quick replies. I appreciate the information. This is : for a fence repair project so I'll be using the cords to power a : battery charger (drill and screw driver) and a portable circular saw : (about 13 amps) for short periods of time (long enough to cut 4" x : 3/4" cedar boards to length). : : Is it a 15a or 20a circuit? How far is the outlet from the breaker box? : I wouldn't run a 13a saw on it unless it was a 20a circuit close to the : breaker box. : Charger should be fine... : : |
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