I am in the process of installing an aquarite salt water chlorine generator.
Before I do anything I want to make sure of something and get some
clarification.

Three pictures for reference at a pool forum where there seems to be some
confusion.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...ed=1#post44743

Picture A shows the intermatic timer with the terminal protector labeling
the(5) terminals as ( from left to right).
A
1 ( Line)
2 ( Load)
3 (Line)
4 (Load)

Now, in picture B, coming into the timer on the right are the pump motor
wires and this confuses me.
Green to ground- Ok
Black to 4 (load) - Ok
and
Black to 1 (Line) Huh?

Coming in from the left are the wires from the aquarite.
From the aquarite manual I read as if it should be wired as such...(
aquarite is pre-wired for 240VAC)
Green to ground.
Red to ? ( load 2?)
Black to ?(load 4?)

What confuses me here is that one power line( Black) from the pool pump is
wired to 1 (Line) terminal. I thought this should be wired to a load
terminal?
The second power line (Black) is wired to 4(Load)
Green to ground lug.

THAT said it appears the that line coming into it( red wire)is from the
switch ( that I use to manually turn the pump on an off) the in housing just
below the timer box. This pump switch is and x-10 wide /flat type switch.

The toggle switch below IT also controls power to the pump( it is left in
the ON position)
Pool light switch and GFI outlet are NOT affected by either the pool pump or
toggle switch, both have constant power.( I assume the light runs FROM the
GFI.

I have no clue what the black box between the light and the GFI is.
I do have a remote control x-10 to turn on and off the pump/light?

It's hard to tell exactly what's going on here, but: The black box is a
"deck box". The conduit from the under water fixture must go to a deck box.
It likely gets its power via the gfci and the switch. The time clock #1 and
#3 are the feed 240 volt for the clock motor. #2 is the load from #1 and has
nothing on it. #4 is the load from #3 and has two wires connected to it. It
would appear that one leg of the load, is incorrectly connected to the line,
and they're only using the clock to break the second leg



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of installing an aquarite salt water chlorine
generator.
Before I do anything I want to make sure of something and get some
clarification.

Three pictures for reference at a pool forum where there seems to be some
confusion.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...ed=1#post44743

Picture A shows the intermatic timer with the terminal protector labeling
the(5) terminals as ( from left to right).
A
1 ( Line)
2 ( Load)
3 (Line)
4 (Load)

Now, in picture B, coming into the timer on the right are the pump motor
wires and this confuses me.
Green to ground- Ok
Black to 4 (load) - Ok
and
Black to 1 (Line) Huh?

Coming in from the left are the wires from the aquarite.
From the aquarite manual I read as if it should be wired as such...(
aquarite is pre-wired for 240VAC)
Green to ground.
Red to ? ( load 2?)
Black to ?(load 4?)

What confuses me here is that one power line( Black) from the pool pump is
wired to 1 (Line) terminal. I thought this should be wired to a load
terminal?
The second power line (Black) is wired to 4(Load)
Green to ground lug.

THAT said it appears the that line coming into it( red wire)is from the
switch ( that I use to manually turn the pump on an off) the in housing
just below the timer box. This pump switch is and x-10 wide /flat type
switch.

The toggle switch below IT also controls power to the pump( it is left in
the ON position)
Pool light switch and GFI outlet are NOT affected by either the pool pump
or toggle switch, both have constant power.( I assume the light runs FROM
the GFI.

I have no clue what the black box between the light and the GFI is.
I do have a remote control x-10 to turn on and off the pump/light?

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
It's hard to tell exactly what's going on here, but: The black box is a
"deck box". The conduit from the under water fixture must go to a deck
box. It likely gets its power via the gfci and the switch. The time clock
#1 and #3 are the feed 240 volt for the clock motor. #2 is the load from
#1 and has nothing on it. #4 is the load from #3 and has two wires
connected to it. It would appear that one leg of the load, is incorrectly
connected to the line, and they're only using the clock to break the
second leg

So does that mean that one lead ( on line 1)to the motor has constant power
OR does the fact that one lead runs through a load side(4) the circuit is
broken.
It seems wrong, but this was wired by a professional and has worked
flawlessly for 5+ years.



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of installing an aquarite salt water chlorine
generator.
Before I do anything I want to make sure of something and get some
clarification.

Three pictures for reference at a pool forum where there seems to be some
confusion.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...ed=1#post44743

Picture A shows the intermatic timer with the terminal protector labeling
the(5) terminals as ( from left to right).
A
1 ( Line)
2 ( Load)
3 (Line)
4 (Load)

Now, in picture B, coming into the timer on the right are the pump motor
wires and this confuses me.
Green to ground- Ok
Black to 4 (load) - Ok
and
Black to 1 (Line) Huh?

Coming in from the left are the wires from the aquarite.
From the aquarite manual I read as if it should be wired as such...(
aquarite is pre-wired for 240VAC)
Green to ground.
Red to ? ( load 2?)
Black to ?(load 4?)

What confuses me here is that one power line( Black) from the pool pump
is wired to 1 (Line) terminal. I thought this should be wired to a load
terminal?
The second power line (Black) is wired to 4(Load)
Green to ground lug.

THAT said it appears the that line coming into it( red wire)is from the
switch ( that I use to manually turn the pump on an off) the in housing
just below the timer box. This pump switch is and x-10 wide /flat type
switch.

The toggle switch below IT also controls power to the pump( it is left in
the ON position)
Pool light switch and GFI outlet are NOT affected by either the pool pump
or toggle switch, both have constant power.( I assume the light runs FROM
the GFI.

I have no clue what the black box between the light and the GFI is.
I do have a remote control x-10 to turn on and off the pump/light?

Both load conductors should be disconnected through the time clock. If one
leg is run live, and the other is broken through the clock, it will work
fine, but the motor will have live current at it, even when it's not
running, which could be dangerous



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
It's hard to tell exactly what's going on here, but: The black box is a
"deck box". The conduit from the under water fixture must go to a deck
box. It likely gets its power via the gfci and the switch. The time clock
#1 and #3 are the feed 240 volt for the clock motor. #2 is the load from
#1 and has nothing on it. #4 is the load from #3 and has two wires
connected to it. It would appear that one leg of the load, is incorrectly
connected to the line, and they're only using the clock to break the
second leg

So does that mean that one lead ( on line 1)to the motor has constant
power OR does the fact that one lead runs through a load side(4) the
circuit is broken.
It seems wrong, but this was wired by a professional and has worked
flawlessly for 5+ years.



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of installing an aquarite salt water chlorine
generator.
Before I do anything I want to make sure of something and get some
clarification.

Three pictures for reference at a pool forum where there seems to be
some confusion.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...ed=1#post44743

Picture A shows the intermatic timer with the terminal protector
labeling the(5) terminals as ( from left to right).
A
1 ( Line)
2 ( Load)
3 (Line)
4 (Load)

Now, in picture B, coming into the timer on the right are the pump motor
wires and this confuses me.
Green to ground- Ok
Black to 4 (load) - Ok
and
Black to 1 (Line) Huh?

Coming in from the left are the wires from the aquarite.
From the aquarite manual I read as if it should be wired as such...(
aquarite is pre-wired for 240VAC)
Green to ground.
Red to ? ( load 2?)
Black to ?(load 4?)

What confuses me here is that one power line( Black) from the pool pump
is wired to 1 (Line) terminal. I thought this should be wired to a load
terminal?
The second power line (Black) is wired to 4(Load)
Green to ground lug.

THAT said it appears the that line coming into it( red wire)is from the
switch ( that I use to manually turn the pump on an off) the in housing
just below the timer box. This pump switch is and x-10 wide /flat type
switch.

The toggle switch below IT also controls power to the pump( it is left
in the ON position)
Pool light switch and GFI outlet are NOT affected by either the pool
pump or toggle switch, both have constant power.( I assume the light
runs FROM the GFI.

I have no clue what the black box between the light and the GFI is.
I do have a remote control x-10 to turn on and off the pump/light?

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
Both load conductors should be disconnected through the time clock. If one
leg is run live, and the other is broken through the clock, it will work
fine, but the motor will have live current at it, even when it's not
running, which could be dangerous

So the motor is switched on when both leads go hot.
What I don't understand is how the pump (x-10)switch activates the motor.



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
It's hard to tell exactly what's going on here, but: The black box is a
"deck box". The conduit from the under water fixture must go to a deck
box. It likely gets its power via the gfci and the switch. The time
clock #1 and #3 are the feed 240 volt for the clock motor. #2 is the
load from #1 and has nothing on it. #4 is the load from #3 and has two
wires connected to it. It would appear that one leg of the load, is
incorrectly connected to the line, and they're only using the clock to
break the second leg

So does that mean that one lead ( on line 1)to the motor has constant
power OR does the fact that one lead runs through a load side(4) the
circuit is broken.
It seems wrong, but this was wired by a professional and has worked
flawlessly for 5+ years.



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of installing an aquarite salt water chlorine
generator.
Before I do anything I want to make sure of something and get some
clarification.

Three pictures for reference at a pool forum where there seems to be
some confusion.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...ed=1#post44743

Picture A shows the intermatic timer with the terminal protector
labeling the(5) terminals as ( from left to right).
A
1 ( Line)
2 ( Load)
3 (Line)
4 (Load)

Now, in picture B, coming into the timer on the right are the pump
motor wires and this confuses me.
Green to ground- Ok
Black to 4 (load) - Ok
and
Black to 1 (Line) Huh?

Coming in from the left are the wires from the aquarite.
From the aquarite manual I read as if it should be wired as such...(
aquarite is pre-wired for 240VAC)
Green to ground.
Red to ? ( load 2?)
Black to ?(load 4?)

What confuses me here is that one power line( Black) from the pool pump
is wired to 1 (Line) terminal. I thought this should be wired to a load
terminal?
The second power line (Black) is wired to 4(Load)
Green to ground lug.

THAT said it appears the that line coming into it( red wire)is from the
switch ( that I use to manually turn the pump on an off) the in housing
just below the timer box. This pump switch is and x-10 wide /flat type
switch.

The toggle switch below IT also controls power to the pump( it is left
in the ON position)
Pool light switch and GFI outlet are NOT affected by either the pool
pump or toggle switch, both have constant power.( I assume the light
runs FROM the GFI.

I have no clue what the black box between the light and the GFI is.
I do have a remote control x-10 to turn on and off the pump/light?

It's 220 it there is no neutral. 110 from each leg one switched one not
switched. Close the switch and then the motor sees 220 and starts.

Rich



RakeKiller wrote:
"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
Both load conductors should be disconnected through the time clock.
If one leg is run live, and the other is broken through the clock,
it will work fine, but the motor will have live current at it, even
when it's not running, which could be dangerous

So the motor is switched on when both leads go hot.
What I don't understand is how the pump (x-10)switch activates the
motor.


"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
It's hard to tell exactly what's going on here, but: The black box
is a "deck box". The conduit from the under water fixture must go
to a deck box. It likely gets its power via the gfci and the
switch. The time clock #1 and #3 are the feed 240 volt for the
clock motor. #2 is the load from #1 and has nothing on it. #4 is
the load from #3 and has two wires connected to it. It would
appear that one leg of the load, is incorrectly connected to the
line, and they're only using the clock to break the second leg

So does that mean that one lead ( on line 1)to the motor has
constant power OR does the fact that one lead runs through a load
side(4) the circuit is broken.
It seems wrong, but this was wired by a professional and has worked
flawlessly for 5+ years.



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of installing an aquarite salt water chlorine
generator.
Before I do anything I want to make sure of something and get some
clarification.

Three pictures for reference at a pool forum where there seems to
be some confusion.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...ed=1#post44743

Picture A shows the intermatic timer with the terminal protector
labeling the(5) terminals as ( from left to right).
A
1 ( Line)
2 ( Load)
3 (Line)
4 (Load)

Now, in picture B, coming into the timer on the right are the pump
motor wires and this confuses me.
Green to ground- Ok
Black to 4 (load) - Ok
and
Black to 1 (Line) Huh?

Coming in from the left are the wires from the aquarite.
From the aquarite manual I read as if it should be wired as
such...( aquarite is pre-wired for 240VAC)
Green to ground.
Red to ? ( load 2?)
Black to ?(load 4?)

What confuses me here is that one power line( Black) from the
pool pump is wired to 1 (Line) terminal. I thought this should be
wired to a load terminal?
The second power line (Black) is wired to 4(Load)
Green to ground lug.

THAT said it appears the that line coming into it( red wire)is
from the switch ( that I use to manually turn the pump on an off)
the in housing just below the timer box. This pump switch is and
x-10 wide /flat type switch.

The toggle switch below IT also controls power to the pump( it is
left in the ON position)
Pool light switch and GFI outlet are NOT affected by either the
pool pump or toggle switch, both have constant power.( I assume
the light runs FROM the GFI.

I have no clue what the black box between the light and the GFI
is. I do have a remote control x-10 to turn on and off the pump/light?

My guess is that the X-10 is in parallel with the leg that the clock is
switching



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
Both load conductors should be disconnected through the time clock. If
one leg is run live, and the other is broken through the clock, it will
work fine, but the motor will have live current at it, even when it's not
running, which could be dangerous

So the motor is switched on when both leads go hot.
What I don't understand is how the pump (x-10)switch activates the motor.



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
It's hard to tell exactly what's going on here, but: The black box is a
"deck box". The conduit from the under water fixture must go to a deck
box. It likely gets its power via the gfci and the switch. The time
clock #1 and #3 are the feed 240 volt for the clock motor. #2 is the
load from #1 and has nothing on it. #4 is the load from #3 and has two
wires connected to it. It would appear that one leg of the load, is
incorrectly connected to the line, and they're only using the clock to
break the second leg

So does that mean that one lead ( on line 1)to the motor has constant
power OR does the fact that one lead runs through a load side(4) the
circuit is broken.
It seems wrong, but this was wired by a professional and has worked
flawlessly for 5+ years.



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of installing an aquarite salt water chlorine
generator.
Before I do anything I want to make sure of something and get some
clarification.

Three pictures for reference at a pool forum where there seems to be
some confusion.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...ed=1#post44743

Picture A shows the intermatic timer with the terminal protector
labeling the(5) terminals as ( from left to right).
A
1 ( Line)
2 ( Load)
3 (Line)
4 (Load)

Now, in picture B, coming into the timer on the right are the pump
motor wires and this confuses me.
Green to ground- Ok
Black to 4 (load) - Ok
and
Black to 1 (Line) Huh?

Coming in from the left are the wires from the aquarite.
From the aquarite manual I read as if it should be wired as such...(
aquarite is pre-wired for 240VAC)
Green to ground.
Red to ? ( load 2?)
Black to ?(load 4?)

What confuses me here is that one power line( Black) from the pool
pump is wired to 1 (Line) terminal. I thought this should be wired to
a load terminal?
The second power line (Black) is wired to 4(Load)
Green to ground lug.

THAT said it appears the that line coming into it( red wire)is from
the switch ( that I use to manually turn the pump on an off) the in
housing just below the timer box. This pump switch is and x-10 wide
/flat type switch.

The toggle switch below IT also controls power to the pump( it is left
in the ON position)
Pool light switch and GFI outlet are NOT affected by either the pool
pump or toggle switch, both have constant power.( I assume the light
runs FROM the GFI.

I have no clue what the black box between the light and the GFI is.
I do have a remote control x-10 to turn on and off the pump/light?

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
My guess is that the X-10 is in parallel with the leg that the clock is
switching

Any way to tell from the picture here...
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...ed=1#post44743

probably not, need to open up the and see the actual wiring to and from the
x-10 I would guess.



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
Both load conductors should be disconnected through the time clock. If
one leg is run live, and the other is broken through the clock, it will
work fine, but the motor will have live current at it, even when it's
not running, which could be dangerous

So the motor is switched on when both leads go hot.
What I don't understand is how the pump (x-10)switch activates the motor.



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
It's hard to tell exactly what's going on here, but: The black box is
a "deck box". The conduit from the under water fixture must go to a
deck box. It likely gets its power via the gfci and the switch. The
time clock #1 and #3 are the feed 240 volt for the clock motor. #2 is
the load from #1 and has nothing on it. #4 is the load from #3 and has
two wires connected to it. It would appear that one leg of the load,
is incorrectly connected to the line, and they're only using the clock
to break the second leg

So does that mean that one lead ( on line 1)to the motor has constant
power OR does the fact that one lead runs through a load side(4) the
circuit is broken.
It seems wrong, but this was wired by a professional and has worked
flawlessly for 5+ years.



"RakeKiller" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of installing an aquarite salt water chlorine
generator.
Before I do anything I want to make sure of something and get some
clarification.

Three pictures for reference at a pool forum where there seems to be
some confusion.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...ed=1#post44743

Picture A shows the intermatic timer with the terminal protector
labeling the(5) terminals as ( from left to right).
A
1 ( Line)
2 ( Load)
3 (Line)
4 (Load)

Now, in picture B, coming into the timer on the right are the pump
motor wires and this confuses me.
Green to ground- Ok
Black to 4 (load) - Ok
and
Black to 1 (Line) Huh?

Coming in from the left are the wires from the aquarite.
From the aquarite manual I read as if it should be wired as
such...( aquarite is pre-wired for 240VAC)
Green to ground.
Red to ? ( load 2?)
Black to ?(load 4?)

What confuses me here is that one power line( Black) from the pool
pump is wired to 1 (Line) terminal. I thought this should be wired to
a load terminal?
The second power line (Black) is wired to 4(Load)
Green to ground lug.

THAT said it appears the that line coming into it( red wire)is from
the switch ( that I use to manually turn the pump on an off) the in
housing just below the timer box. This pump switch is and x-10 wide
/flat type switch.

The toggle switch below IT also controls power to the pump( it is
left in the ON position)
Pool light switch and GFI outlet are NOT affected by either the pool
pump or toggle switch, both have constant power.( I assume the light
runs FROM the GFI.

I have no clue what the black box between the light and the GFI is.
I do have a remote control x-10 to turn on and off the pump/light?

On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 11:23:17 -0700, "RakeKiller"
wrote:

I am in the process of installing an aquarite salt water chlorine generator.
Before I do anything I want to make sure of something and get some
clarification.

I see you've already started to move wires. Whatever you do, don't
lose track of how they were connected originally. The pictures will
help but I wouldn't rely on them. One black wire can look a lot like
another.

Did this setup ever work? Since you've had the house, or are you
relying on the seller that he didn't change things since it worked?

Finally, what I would do is make a drawing of the wires as you found
them. Make one drawing that's rather pictorial, and then make another
drawing from that, arranging the lines more logically.

Then I would make a drawing based on how I would have wired it if I
bought all the parts new. That's assuming you understand how these
things work, and you should make sure you understand that soon, and
some time before you finish this second drawing. After all, you can't
remain at the mercy of the wires that you found there.

Then compare the two drawings so you see all the similarities, and
all the differences. If you can rearrange connections so that nothing
changes electrically but the wiring seems more simliar to the other do
that. I'll bet you can get the differences down to one or two. If
you can get the differences down to one or two, you can probably
change the wires to match your drawing and it will work. Keep a clear
record of what you changed.

If you can't get the differences down to one or two, you probably
still don't understand how the thing works, or you would understand
why it is wired the way it is now.

Yeah, I agree with moving the black wire to the load side. That
could be connected that way because the timer had a defect on one line
of the 220V relay. It would still work fine but leaves the wiring hot
from neutral all the time, not just when the timer is activated.

So get your note pad out and draw up the wiring diagram.





On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 11:23:17 -0700, "RakeKiller"
wrote:

I am in the process of installing an aquarite salt water chlorine generator.
Before I do anything I want to make sure of something and get some
clarification.

Three pictures for reference at a pool forum where there seems to be some
confusion.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...ed=1#post44743

Picture A shows the intermatic timer with the terminal protector labeling
the(5) terminals as ( from left to right).
A
1 ( Line)
2 ( Load)
3 (Line)
4 (Load)

Now, in picture B, coming into the timer on the right are the pump motor
wires and this confuses me.
Green to ground- Ok
Black to 4 (load) - Ok
and
Black to 1 (Line) Huh?

Coming in from the left are the wires from the aquarite.
From the aquarite manual I read as if it should be wired as such...(
aquarite is pre-wired for 240VAC)
Green to ground.
Red to ? ( load 2?)
Black to ?(load 4?)

What confuses me here is that one power line( Black) from the pool pump is
wired to 1 (Line) terminal. I thought this should be wired to a load
terminal?
The second power line (Black) is wired to 4(Load)
Green to ground lug.

THAT said it appears the that line coming into it( red wire)is from the
switch ( that I use to manually turn the pump on an off) the in housing just
below the timer box. This pump switch is and x-10 wide /flat type switch.

The toggle switch below IT also controls power to the pump( it is left in
the ON position)
Pool light switch and GFI outlet are NOT affected by either the pool pump or
toggle switch, both have constant power.( I assume the light runs FROM the
GFI.

I have no clue what the black box between the light and the GFI is.
I do have a remote control x-10 to turn on and off the pump/light?