I'm putting a GFCI in a bathroom. Ideally I would use the load terminals and
protect the other outlets downstream too. Unfortunately down line from the
GFCI is a refrigerator. I don't want the fridge on a GFCI circuit because
they occaisionally phantom trip and I don't want a bunch of spoiled food.
The GFCI has 4 terminals for Line, 2 neutral and 2 hot and 4 terminals for
load 2 neutral and 2 hot. Is there any reason including the NEC that the
load wires cannot just be wired to the extra line terminals to bypass the
GFCI and allow power to the fridge even if the GFCI trips? Yes I understand
none of the outlets after the GFCI will be protected as they would be if
they were wired to "load", and I will take care of that when I add GFCI to
the kitchenette where the fridge is in whatever way will work best depending
on exactly where, electrically speaking, in the daisy chain the fridge
outlet is. The GFCI is one of the idiot proof ones that comes tripped and
supposedly won't reset until it's correctly wired. Testing it out it works
fine wired this way as far as the test and reset buttons on it go. Is there
any practical reason, including the NEC, not to do it this way? I
appreciate good responses but please don't answer if you don't know anything
about wiring or are wondering what NEC, load or line means.

Thanks.

No, nothing wrong with that. Just make sure the terminals are tight on the
wires. My preference is to splice the wires together with pigtails to the
outlet




"DB" wrote in message
...
I'm putting a GFCI in a bathroom. Ideally I would use the load terminals
and protect the other outlets downstream too. Unfortunately down line from
the GFCI is a refrigerator. I don't want the fridge on a GFCI circuit
because they occaisionally phantom trip and I don't want a bunch of
spoiled food. The GFCI has 4 terminals for Line, 2 neutral and 2 hot and 4
terminals for load 2 neutral and 2 hot. Is there any reason including the
NEC that the load wires cannot just be wired to the extra line terminals
to bypass the GFCI and allow power to the fridge even if the GFCI trips?
Yes I understand none of the outlets after the GFCI will be protected as
they would be if they were wired to "load", and I will take care of that
when I add GFCI to the kitchenette where the fridge is in whatever way
will work best depending on exactly where, electrically speaking, in the
daisy chain the fridge outlet is. The GFCI is one of the idiot proof ones
that comes tripped and supposedly won't reset until it's correctly wired.
Testing it out it works fine wired this way as far as the test and reset
buttons on it go. Is there any practical reason, including the NEC, not
to do it this way? I appreciate good responses but please don't answer if
you don't know anything about wiring or are wondering what NEC, load or
line means.

Thanks.

On Mar 29, 7:47 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote:
No, nothing wrong with that. Just make sure the terminals are tight on the
wires. My preference is to splice the wires together with pigtails to the
outlet

"DB" wrote in message

...



I'm putting a GFCI in a bathroom. Ideally I would use the load terminals
and protect the other outlets downstream too. Unfortunately down line from
the GFCI is a refrigerator. I don't want the fridge on a GFCI circuit
because they occaisionally phantom trip and I don't want a bunch of
spoiled food. The GFCI has 4 terminals for Line, 2 neutral and 2 hot and 4
terminals for load 2 neutral and 2 hot. Is there any reason including the
NEC that the load wires cannot just be wired to the extra line terminals
to bypass the GFCI and allow power to the fridge even if the GFCI trips?
Yes I understand none of the outlets after the GFCI will be protected as
they would be if they were wired to "load", and I will take care of that
when I add GFCI to the kitchenette where the fridge is in whatever way
will work best depending on exactly where, electrically speaking, in the
daisy chain the fridge outlet is. The GFCI is one of the idiot proof ones
that comes tripped and supposedly won't reset until it's correctly wired.
Testing it out it works fine wired this way as far as the test and reset
buttons on it go. Is there any practical reason, including the NEC, not
to do it this way? I appreciate good responses but please don't answer if
you don't know anything about wiring or are wondering what NEC, load or
line means.

Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As RBM states what you are suggesting will work. However, per current
code a bathroom circuit shouldn't be supplying anything outside a
bathroom.

The current code wouldn't apply to a preexisting condition. Essentially he's
just changing the receptacle for a GFCI type which is fine



"Eric9822" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Mar 29, 7:47 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote:
No, nothing wrong with that. Just make sure the terminals are tight on
the
wires. My preference is to splice the wires together with pigtails to the
outlet

"DB" wrote in message

...



I'm putting a GFCI in a bathroom. Ideally I would use the load
terminals
and protect the other outlets downstream too. Unfortunately down line
from
the GFCI is a refrigerator. I don't want the fridge on a GFCI circuit
because they occaisionally phantom trip and I don't want a bunch of
spoiled food. The GFCI has 4 terminals for Line, 2 neutral and 2 hot
and 4
terminals for load 2 neutral and 2 hot. Is there any reason including
the
NEC that the load wires cannot just be wired to the extra line
terminals
to bypass the GFCI and allow power to the fridge even if the GFCI
trips?
Yes I understand none of the outlets after the GFCI will be protected
as
they would be if they were wired to "load", and I will take care of
that
when I add GFCI to the kitchenette where the fridge is in whatever way
will work best depending on exactly where, electrically speaking, in
the
daisy chain the fridge outlet is. The GFCI is one of the idiot proof
ones
that comes tripped and supposedly won't reset until it's correctly
wired.
Testing it out it works fine wired this way as far as the test and
reset
buttons on it go. Is there any practical reason, including the NEC,
not
to do it this way? I appreciate good responses but please don't answer
if
you don't know anything about wiring or are wondering what NEC, load or
line means.

Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As RBM states what you are suggesting will work. However, per current
code a bathroom circuit shouldn't be supplying anything outside a
bathroom.

On Mar 30, 4:09 am, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote:
The current code wouldn't apply to a preexisting condition. Essentially he's
just changing the receptacle for a GFCI type which is fine

"Eric9822" wrote in message

ups.com...



On Mar 29, 7:47 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote:
No, nothing wrong with that. Just make sure the terminals are tight on
the
wires. My preference is to splice the wires together with pigtails to the
outlet

"DB" wrote in message

. ..

I'm putting a GFCI in a bathroom. Ideally I would use the load
terminals
and protect the other outlets downstream too. Unfortunately down line
from
the GFCI is a refrigerator. I don't want the fridge on a GFCI circuit
because they occaisionally phantom trip and I don't want a bunch of
spoiled food. The GFCI has 4 terminals for Line, 2 neutral and 2 hot
and 4
terminals for load 2 neutral and 2 hot. Is there any reason including
the
NEC that the load wires cannot just be wired to the extra line
terminals
to bypass the GFCI and allow power to the fridge even if the GFCI
trips?
Yes I understand none of the outlets after the GFCI will be protected
as
they would be if they were wired to "load", and I will take care of
that
when I add GFCI to the kitchenette where the fridge is in whatever way
will work best depending on exactly where, electrically speaking, in
the
daisy chain the fridge outlet is. The GFCI is one of the idiot proof
ones
that comes tripped and supposedly won't reset until it's correctly
wired.
Testing it out it works fine wired this way as far as the test and
reset
buttons on it go. Is there any practical reason, including the NEC,
not
to do it this way? I appreciate good responses but please don't answer
if
you don't know anything about wiring or are wondering what NEC, load or
line means.

Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As RBM states what you are suggesting will work. However, per current
code a bathroom circuit shouldn't be supplying anything outside a
bathroom.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I understand that. I pointed it out to the OP in case the existing
installation was recently created.

"Eric9822" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Mar 29, 7:47 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote:
No, nothing wrong with that. Just make sure the terminals are tight on
the
wires. My preference is to splice the wires together with pigtails to the
outlet

"DB" wrote in message

...



I'm putting a GFCI in a bathroom. Ideally I would use the load
terminals
and protect the other outlets downstream too. Unfortunately down line
from
the GFCI is a refrigerator. I don't want the fridge on a GFCI circuit
because they occaisionally phantom trip and I don't want a bunch of
spoiled food. The GFCI has 4 terminals for Line, 2 neutral and 2 hot
and 4
terminals for load 2 neutral and 2 hot. Is there any reason including
the
NEC that the load wires cannot just be wired to the extra line
terminals
to bypass the GFCI and allow power to the fridge even if the GFCI
trips?
Yes I understand none of the outlets after the GFCI will be protected
as
they would be if they were wired to "load", and I will take care of
that
when I add GFCI to the kitchenette where the fridge is in whatever way
will work best depending on exactly where, electrically speaking, in
the
daisy chain the fridge outlet is. The GFCI is one of the idiot proof
ones
that comes tripped and supposedly won't reset until it's correctly
wired.
Testing it out it works fine wired this way as far as the test and
reset
buttons on it go. Is there any practical reason, including the NEC,
not
to do it this way? I appreciate good responses but please don't answer
if
you don't know anything about wiring or are wondering what NEC, load or
line means.

Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As RBM states what you are suggesting will work. However, per current
code a bathroom circuit shouldn't be supplying anything outside a
bathroom.

It's existing wiring from the 70's or so. It's all Romex in good shape
hooked to a 200 amp panel. I'm just replacing an outlet I haven't rewired or
added branches to the circuit. It was wired as is when the place was built.

"Eric9822" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Mar 30, 4:09 am, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote:
The current code wouldn't apply to a preexisting condition. Essentially
he's
just changing the receptacle for a GFCI type which is fine

"Eric9822" wrote in message

ups.com...



On Mar 29, 7:47 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote:
No, nothing wrong with that. Just make sure the terminals are tight on
the
wires. My preference is to splice the wires together with pigtails to
the
outlet

"DB" wrote in message

. ..

I'm putting a GFCI in a bathroom. Ideally I would use the load
terminals
and protect the other outlets downstream too. Unfortunately down
line
from
the GFCI is a refrigerator. I don't want the fridge on a GFCI
circuit
because they occaisionally phantom trip and I don't want a bunch of
spoiled food. The GFCI has 4 terminals for Line, 2 neutral and 2 hot
and 4
terminals for load 2 neutral and 2 hot. Is there any reason
including
the
NEC that the load wires cannot just be wired to the extra line
terminals
to bypass the GFCI and allow power to the fridge even if the GFCI
trips?
Yes I understand none of the outlets after the GFCI will be
protected
as
they would be if they were wired to "load", and I will take care of
that
when I add GFCI to the kitchenette where the fridge is in whatever
way
will work best depending on exactly where, electrically speaking, in
the
daisy chain the fridge outlet is. The GFCI is one of the idiot proof
ones
that comes tripped and supposedly won't reset until it's correctly
wired.
Testing it out it works fine wired this way as far as the test and
reset
buttons on it go. Is there any practical reason, including the
NEC,
not
to do it this way? I appreciate good responses but please don't
answer
if
you don't know anything about wiring or are wondering what NEC, load
or
line means.

Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As RBM states what you are suggesting will work. However, per current
code a bathroom circuit shouldn't be supplying anything outside a
bathroom.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I understand that. I pointed it out to the OP in case the existing
installation was recently created.


No was wired when the place was built deacdes ago. I wouldn't have wired it
like it is and didn't even know the fridge outlet was on it until after the
GFCI was wired the traditional way and test tripping it cut off the
compressor.