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#1
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3 dif. plumbers want $350 for single-lever wash. mach. valve install
This is a follow up to the recent thread. I live in Northern NJ. So far, 3
different plumbers I talked to all quoted the same exact price of $350 to replace existing crank-style washing machine valves with a Watts single lever valve. Hard to believe this costs so much, since somebody here said it is only going to take an hour to do and the part only cost $33 or less and little bit of extra copper piping needed can't cost that much. I suppose I could get a handyman to do this for a lot less but then this person wouldn't be a licensed plumber....is it worth trying to save a couple hundred by not using a licensed plumber? The way I want it installed (described in next paragraph) doesn't involve cutting into drywall. Just want to confirm this doesn't go against any codes: At some point (who knows when) somebody installed a single-handle watts valve in my mom's unit. I'm looking to have mine done the same way since no drywall work is involved. There are two eschuteons (sic?) against the wall with about 3/4" exposed pipe sticking out. At my Mom's condo, it looks like they removed the old valves and then added downward elbows and then two sideward elbows and two small sections of horizontal pipe leading from the sideward elbows which into the watts valve from the sides. Only difference in her condo is that the pipes sticking out of the wall are 5 1/2" inches a part vs. mine being 9", so that would mean that mine would simply need more horizontal pipe. One of my pipes coming out of the wall is around an inch higher than the other, but the same was true for my moms so I guess this isn't going to be problematic. There is nothing about that is goes against any codes, right? Thanks, Jay |
#2
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3 dif. plumbers want $350 for single-lever wash. mach. valve install
On Mar 26, 1:55 pm, "jay-n-123" wrote:
This is a follow up to the recent thread. I live in Northern NJ. So far, 3 different plumbers I talked to all quoted the same exact price of $350 to replace existing crank-style washing machine valves with a Watts single lever valve. Hard to believe this costs so much, since somebody here said it is only going to take an hour to do and the part only cost $33 or less and little bit of extra copper piping needed can't cost that much. I suppose I could get a handyman to do this for a lot less but then this person wouldn't be a licensed plumber....is it worth trying to save a couple hundred by not using a licensed plumber? The way I want it installed (described in next paragraph) doesn't involve cutting into drywall. Just want to confirm this doesn't go against any codes: At some point (who knows when) somebody installed a single-handle watts valve in my mom's unit. I'm looking to have mine done the same way since no drywall work is involved. There are two eschuteons (sic?) against the wall with about 3/4" exposed pipe sticking out. At my Mom's condo, it looks like they removed the old valves and then added downward elbows and then two sideward elbows and two small sections of horizontal pipe leading from the sideward elbows which into the watts valve from the sides. Only difference in her condo is that the pipes sticking out of the wall are 5 1/2" inches a part vs. mine being 9", so that would mean that mine would simply need more horizontal pipe. One of my pipes coming out of the wall is around an inch higher than the other, but the same was true for my moms so I guess this isn't going to be problematic. There is nothing about that is goes against any codes, right? Hey, Jay. Your situation is exactly what I thought you meant the first time, and I'm the one that said it would take about an hour and the valve cost about $30. Getting three identical quotes from three different plumbers is _extremely_ odd. I don't see how three different plumbers could give the exact same price if they all eyeballed the job. By any chance did you ignore the part I wrote in my earlier reply - the part about getting prices over the phone? To refresh your memory: http://groups.google.com/group/alt.h...d00164579eb d Plumbers are more expensive then handymen. It is not a difficult job. I'm sure there are handymen that would not have a problem with doing the work. Your local code most likely restricts you to using a plumber as northern NJ has some pretty strict local codes. You're the only one that can make the determination if it's worth going with a handyman - it's your house. BTW, you do not need to, nor should you, start a new thread on an existing open topic. If you add to your own thread, it pops to the top in peoples' newsreaders so you don't have to worry about your new information being lost in the mix. R |
#3
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3 dif. plumbers want $350 for single-lever wash. mach. valve install
"jay-n-123" wrote in message news:eOTNh.2833$yo3.549@trnddc04... This is a follow up to the recent thread. I live in Northern NJ. So far, 3 different plumbers I talked to all quoted the same exact price of $350 to replace existing crank-style washing machine valves with a Watts single lever valve. Hard to believe this costs so much, since somebody here said it is only going to take an hour to do and the part only cost $33 or less and little bit of extra copper piping needed can't cost that much. I suppose I could get a handyman to do this for a lot less but then this person wouldn't be a licensed plumber....is it worth trying to save a couple hundred by not using a licensed plumber? The way I want it installed (described in next paragraph) doesn't involve cutting into drywall. Just want to confirm this doesn't go against any codes: At some point (who knows when) somebody installed a single-handle watts valve in my mom's unit. I'm looking to have mine done the same way since no drywall work is involved. There are two eschuteons (sic?) against the wall with about 3/4" exposed pipe sticking out. At my Mom's condo, it looks like they removed the old valves and then added downward elbows and then two sideward elbows and two small sections of horizontal pipe leading from the sideward elbows which into the watts valve from the sides. Only difference in her condo is that the pipes sticking out of the wall are 5 1/2" inches a part vs. mine being 9", so that would mean that mine would simply need more horizontal pipe. One of my pipes coming out of the wall is around an inch higher than the other, but the same was true for my moms so I guess this isn't going to be problematic. There is nothing about that is goes against any codes, right? Thanks, Jay Without question they will need to cut in to the drywall. 3/4" comming out of the wall is no where close to what is needed. They have no way to solder on the new fittings. They also need to be concerned with the paper backing on the drywall catching fire when they are soldering. What may look easy to you "could" be a lot more involved. 350, while it might sound steep is, at least around here (Boston), a reasonable amount for a licensed plumber onsite. Rates here are 90-125+ per hour. 50$ stock, 2-3hrs onsite, your right there. |
#4
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3 dif. plumbers want $350 for single-lever wash. mach. valveinstall
If you have a plumber who happens to have one of these .. .. ..
http://www.msvalves.com/sting.html he can solder onto short stubs without anything more than a slight discoloration of adjacent drywall or other painted surfaces Without question they will need to cut in to the drywall. 3/4" comming out of the wall is no where close to what is needed. They have no way to solder on the new fittings. They also need to be concerned with the paper backing on the drywall catching fire when they are soldering. What may look easy to you "could" be a lot more involved. 350, while it might sound steep is, at least around here (Boston), a reasonable amount for a licensed plumber onsite. Rates here are 90-125+ per hour. 50$ stock, 2-3hrs onsite, your right there. |
#5
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3 dif. plumbers want $350 for single-lever wash. mach. valveinstall
Brian V wrote:
"jay-n-123" wrote in message news:eOTNh.2833$yo3.549@trnddc04... This is a follow up to the recent thread. I live in Northern NJ. So far, 3 different plumbers I talked to all quoted the same exact price of $350 to replace existing crank-style washing machine valves with a Watts single lever valve. Hard to believe this costs so much, since somebody here said it is only going to take an hour to do and the part only cost $33 or less and little bit of extra copper piping needed can't cost that much. I suppose I could get a handyman to do this for a lot less but then this person wouldn't be a licensed plumber....is it worth trying to save a couple hundred by not using a licensed plumber? The way I want it installed (described in next paragraph) doesn't involve cutting into drywall. Just want to confirm this doesn't go against any codes: At some point (who knows when) somebody installed a single-handle watts valve in my mom's unit. I'm looking to have mine done the same way since no drywall work is involved. There are two eschuteons (sic?) against the wall with about 3/4" exposed pipe sticking out. At my Mom's condo, it looks like they removed the old valves and then added downward elbows and then two sideward elbows and two small sections of horizontal pipe leading from the sideward elbows which into the watts valve from the sides. Only difference in her condo is that the pipes sticking out of the wall are 5 1/2" inches a part vs. mine being 9", so that would mean that mine would simply need more horizontal pipe. One of my pipes coming out of the wall is around an inch higher than the other, but the same was true for my moms so I guess this isn't going to be problematic. There is nothing about that is goes against any codes, right? Thanks, Jay Without question they will need to cut in to the drywall. 3/4" comming out of the wall is no where close to what is needed. They have no way to solder on the new fittings. They also need to be concerned with the paper backing on the drywall catching fire when they are soldering. What may look easy to you "could" be a lot more involved. 350, while it might sound steep is, at least around here (Boston), a reasonable amount for a licensed plumber onsite. Rates here are 90-125+ per hour. 50$ stock, 2-3hrs onsite, your right there. Right on! Also, there is one nasty word which everyone has overlooked: "Condo". The condo assoc may have strict rules about who can do work. In any event, the contractor working on a condo property has to assume a *lot* of liability. The guys who quoted this know that. One last thought- Have you (OP) considered just leaving the old valves in place and installing armored hoses (high burst strength) instead of rubber ones? Jim |
#6
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3 dif. plumbers want $350 for single-lever wash. mach. valve install
In any event, the contractor working on a condo
property has to assume a *lot* of liability. The guys who quoted this know that. How do they know that....I never mentioned it. One last thought- Have you (OP) considered just leaving the old valves in place and installing armored hoses (high burst strength) instead of rubber ones? I have steel-braided reinforced hoses already. Problem with the valve was that it started dripping a little from the stem, and I tried replacing the packing. When putting the nut back on, I noticed that something is peculiar in that, no matter what I do, the packing nut wants to always go onto the threaded cylinder part at an angle and therefore I can only tighten it so much without fear of stripping the threads (assuming they weren't already stripped or something). I don't know why the nut wants to go back on at an angle no matter what I do. Don't know if I did something wrong, but it may have been like that already. I suppose I could maybe see if a plumber could do repair work on the existing valve such as maybe try another nut, or replace the whole stem (if that is possible), but was thinking that having a single handle watts valve installed might be worth having done instead. What do you think? Thanks, J. |
#7
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3 dif. plumbers want $350 for single-lever wash. mach. valveinstall
jay-n-123 wrote:
In any event, the contractor working on a condo property has to assume a *lot* of liability. The guys who quoted this know that. How do they know that....I never mentioned it. One last thought- Have you (OP) considered just leaving the old valves in place and installing armored hoses (high burst strength) instead of rubber ones? I have steel-braided reinforced hoses already. Problem with the valve was that it started dripping a little from the stem, and I tried replacing the packing. When putting the nut back on, I noticed that something is peculiar in that, no matter what I do, the packing nut wants to always go onto the threaded cylinder part at an angle and therefore I can only tighten it so much without fear of stripping the threads (assuming they weren't already stripped or something). I don't know why the nut wants to go back on at an angle no matter what I do. Don't know if I did something wrong, but it may have been like that already. I suppose I could maybe see if a plumber could do repair work on the existing valve such as maybe try another nut, or replace the whole stem (if that is possible), but was thinking that having a single handle watts valve installed might be worth having done instead. What do you think? Thanks, J. Ah. Chances are you are stuck over the packing nut that won't thread on. If you are going to have a plumber in to fix that, he may as well put in the Watts. (They likely figured out it's a condo from the address. Or that's their flat rate for everyone...) Jim |
#8
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would this be crazy?
Ah. Chances are you are stuck over the packing
nut that won't thread on. If you are going to have a plumber in to fix that, he may as well put in the Watts. Hope I'm not beating a dead horse here...but what's strange is that the existing valve actually doesn't drip now when I opening up, likely cause I added the packing. It just bothers me out that the packing nut goes on at an angle even though it may have always been that way. Would it be crazy to live with it if it's not dripping (but always shut it off when not in use and only open it up a minimal amount when in use)...rather than immediately spending a few hundred for new valves? If you think I'd be crazy not to just bite the bullet and get new valve(s) installed...do you think two individual sealed ball valves might be less likely to leak than a single lever Watts...I notice the single lever ones have all kinds of o rings, etc....but I guess the single-handle ones can easily be replaced without soldering if anything ever goes wrong...which do you think is better? Thanks, J. |
#9
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3 dif. plumbers want $350 for single-lever wash. mach. valve install
Old joke:
A paralegal complains to one of the law firm partners that the ladies room has a leak. He calls a plumber and asks for a quote. After being told it will take about an hour and will cost $350 the lawyer exclaims..... "$350 for an hour work? I'm a lawyer and I only charger $250 per hour" . The plumber responds.... yes that is about right. I used to be a lawyer and charged $250 per hour before I became a plumber. "Brian V" wrote in message . .. "jay-n-123" wrote in message news:eOTNh.2833$yo3.549@trnddc04... This is a follow up to the recent thread. I live in Northern NJ. So far, 3 different plumbers I talked to all quoted the same exact price of $350 to replace existing crank-style washing machine valves with a Watts single lever valve. Hard to believe this costs so much, since somebody here said it is only going to take an hour to do and the part only cost $33 or less and little bit of extra copper piping needed can't cost that much. I suppose I could get a handyman to do this for a lot less but then this person wouldn't be a licensed plumber....is it worth trying to save a couple hundred by not using a licensed plumber? The way I want it installed (described in next paragraph) doesn't involve cutting into drywall. Just want to confirm this doesn't go against any codes: At some point (who knows when) somebody installed a single-handle watts valve in my mom's unit. I'm looking to have mine done the same way since no drywall work is involved. There are two eschuteons (sic?) against the wall with about 3/4" exposed pipe sticking out. At my Mom's condo, it looks like they removed the old valves and then added downward elbows and then two sideward elbows and two small sections of horizontal pipe leading from the sideward elbows which into the watts valve from the sides. Only difference in her condo is that the pipes sticking out of the wall are 5 1/2" inches a part vs. mine being 9", so that would mean that mine would simply need more horizontal pipe. One of my pipes coming out of the wall is around an inch higher than the other, but the same was true for my moms so I guess this isn't going to be problematic. There is nothing about that is goes against any codes, right? Thanks, Jay Without question they will need to cut in to the drywall. 3/4" comming out of the wall is no where close to what is needed. They have no way to solder on the new fittings. They also need to be concerned with the paper backing on the drywall catching fire when they are soldering. What may look easy to you "could" be a lot more involved. 350, while it might sound steep is, at least around here (Boston), a reasonable amount for a licensed plumber onsite. Rates here are 90-125+ per hour. 50$ stock, 2-3hrs onsite, your right there. |
#10
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3 dif. plumbers want $350 for single-lever wash. mach. valve install
On Mar 26, 1:55 pm, "jay-n-123" wrote:
This is a follow up to the recent thread. I live in Northern NJ. So far, 3 different plumbers I talked to all quoted the same exact price of $350 to replace existing crank-style washing machine valves with a Watts single lever valve. Hard to believe this costs so much, since somebody here said it is only going to take an hour to do and the part only cost $33 or less and little bit of extra copper piping needed can't cost that much. I suppose I could get a handyman to do this for a lot less but then this person wouldn't be a licensed plumber....is it worth trying to save a couple hundred by not using a licensed plumber? The way I want it installed (described in next paragraph) doesn't involve cutting into drywall. Just want to confirm this doesn't go against any codes: At some point (who knows when) somebody installed a single-handle watts valve in my mom's unit. I'm looking to have mine done the same way since no drywall work is involved. There are two eschuteons (sic?) against the wall with about 3/4" exposed pipe sticking out. At my Mom's condo, it looks like they removed the old valves and then added downward elbows and then two sideward elbows and two small sections of horizontal pipe leading from the sideward elbows which into the watts valve from the sides. Only difference in her condo is that the pipes sticking out of the wall are 5 1/2" inches a part vs. mine being 9", so that would mean that mine would simply need more horizontal pipe. One of my pipes coming out of the wall is around an inch higher than the other, but the same was true for my moms so I guess this isn't going to be problematic. There is nothing about that is goes against any codes, right? Hey, Jay. Your situation is exactly what I thought you meant the first time, and I'm the one that said it would take about an hour and the valve cost about $30. Getting three identical quotes from three different plumbers is _extremely_ odd. I don't see how three different plumbers could give the exact same price if they all eyeballed the job. By any chance did you ignore the part I wrote in my earlier reply - the part about getting prices over the phone? To refresh your memory: http://groups.google.com/group/alt.h...d00164579eb d Plumbers are more expensive then handymen. It is not a difficult job. I'm sure there are handymen that would not have a problem with doing the work. Your local code most likely restricts you to using a plumber as northern NJ has some pretty strict local codes. You're the only one that can make the determination if it's worth going with a handyman - it's your house. BTW, you do not need to, nor should you, start a new thread on an existing open topic. If you add to your own thread, it pops to the top in peoples' newsreaders so you don't have to worry about your new information being lost in the mix. R |
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