I've bought at the store or at yard sales, or found in the trash or
inherited from an old guy several kinds of flux, but I've alsways
saved them for copper pipes, and relied on resin core solder to do
electronics and electrical.

Is this what you guys do?

Sometimes I have trouble getting the solder to spread out, even when
I've scraped the wire etc. with a knife and gotten it very shiny.

One case last week involved 20 gauge single strand wire that had a
white plastic covering and a black plastic covering over that, even
though there was no braid or anything (why two layers?)

Should I be using the flux in cases like this?

Are there any things I should know that aren't obvious among the
following:

Oatey No.5 solder paste, cleans, fluxes, in a round red can a half
inch high
Oatey No. 95 Lead Free Tinning Flux for use with any lead free solder,
in a green can the same size as the red can above.
Kester soldering paste, in a 2x2" square blue metal can about a half
inch high with rounded corners.
Kester All Purpose Soldering flux, liquid in a 4 oz white plastic
bottle.

On Feb 25, 9:55 pm, mm wrote:
I've bought at the store or at yard sales, or found in the trash or
inherited from an old guy several kinds of flux, but I've alsways
saved them for copper pipes, and relied on resin core solder to do
electronics and electrical.

Is this what you guys do?

Sometimes I have trouble getting the solder to spread out, even when
I've scraped the wire etc. with a knife and gotten it very shiny.

One case last week involved 20 gauge single strand wire that had a
white plastic covering and a black plastic covering over that, even
though there was no braid or anything (why two layers?)

Should I be using the flux in cases like this?

Are there any things I should know that aren't obvious among the
following:

Oatey No.5 solder paste, cleans, fluxes, in a round red can a half
inch high
Oatey No. 95 Lead Free Tinning Flux for use with any lead free solder,
in a green can the same size as the red can above.
Kester soldering paste, in a 2x2" square blue metal can about a half
inch high with rounded corners.
Kester All Purpose Soldering flux, liquid in a 4 oz white plastic
bottle.

For many years Ersin multicore 60/40 solder was the yardstick for all
the others. Likely today there are other even better ones. For
anything electrical stick with one of these and if your work doesn't
turn out too well you simply aren't getting the copper clean enough
nor the work hot enough for solder flow. HTH

Jpe

Just about any flux left on wires/PC
boards will corrode the metal
in time. That is why electronic
companies wash the boards after
the components are soldered. However,
flux meant for electronics
can usually be left without cleaning
..... but it will still cause problems
after a long time. BTW, I have a
"Kester soldering paste, in a 2x2
square blue metal can" that I have had
for many, many years of
electronic soldering. It's so old, the
can is marked something like
19 cents. It's still pretty full.

mm wrote:
I've bought at the store or at yard sales, or found in the trash or
inherited from an old guy several kinds of flux, but I've alsways
saved them for copper pipes, and relied on resin core solder to do
electronics and electrical.

Is this what you guys do?

Sometimes I have trouble getting the solder to spread out, even when
I've scraped the wire etc. with a knife and gotten it very shiny.

One case last week involved 20 gauge single strand wire that had a
white plastic covering and a black plastic covering over that, even
though there was no braid or anything (why two layers?)

Should I be using the flux in cases like this?

Are there any things I should know that aren't obvious among the
following:

Oatey No.5 solder paste, cleans, fluxes, in a round red can a half
inch high
Oatey No. 95 Lead Free Tinning Flux for use with any lead free solder,
in a green can the same size as the red can above.
Kester soldering paste, in a 2x2" square blue metal can about a half
inch high with rounded corners.
Kester All Purpose Soldering flux, liquid in a 4 oz white plastic
bottle.

On 25 Feb 2007 20:28:53 -0800, "Joe" wrote:



For many years Ersin multicore 60/40 solder was the yardstick for all
the others. Likely today there are other even better ones. For
anything electrical stick with one of these and if your work doesn't
turn out too well you simply aren't getting the copper clean enough
nor the work hot enough for solder flow. HTH

So you mean I shouldn't need any other flux that what is in the
solder? Like i have been doing?

Jpe

mm, 2/25/2007,10:55:55 PM, wrote:

I've bought at the store or at yard sales, or found in the trash or
inherited from an old guy several kinds of flux, but I've alsways
saved them for copper pipes, and relied on resin core solder to do
electronics and electrical.

Is this what you guys do?

Sometimes I have trouble getting the solder to spread out, even when
I've scraped the wire etc. with a knife and gotten it very shiny.

One case last week involved 20 gauge single strand wire that had a
white plastic covering and a black plastic covering over that, even
though there was no braid or anything (why two layers?)

Should I be using the flux in cases like this?

Are there any things I should know that aren't obvious among the
following:

Oatey No.5 solder paste, cleans, fluxes, in a round red can a half
inch high
Oatey No. 95 Lead Free Tinning Flux for use with any lead free solder,
in a green can the same size as the red can above.
Kester soldering paste, in a 2x2" square blue metal can about a half
inch high with rounded corners.
Kester All Purpose Soldering flux, liquid in a 4 oz white plastic
bottle.

I can only tell you my experience as an electronic technician for 25
years. If you cannot tin the single strand wire properly it is either
coated with some substance or you are not heating it enough. Come to
think of it, why are you tinning single strand anyway? Perhaps I
misunderstood and you just want to solder it on to a post or something.
You really shouldn't need any additional flux. What is in the solder
should be good enough.

On Mon, 26 Feb 2007 00:19:59 -0500, "badgolferman"
wrote:

mm, 2/25/2007,10:55:55 PM, wrote:

I've bought at the store or at yard sales, or found in the trash or
inherited from an old guy several kinds of flux, but I've alsways
saved them for copper pipes, and relied on resin core solder to do
electronics and electrical.

Is this what you guys do?

Sometimes I have trouble getting the solder to spread out, even when
I've scraped the wire etc. with a knife and gotten it very shiny.

One case last week involved 20 gauge single strand wire that had a
white plastic covering and a black plastic covering over that, even
though there was no braid or anything (why two layers?)

Should I be using the flux in cases like this?

Are there any things I should know that aren't obvious among the
following:

Oatey No.5 solder paste, cleans, fluxes, in a round red can a half
inch high
Oatey No. 95 Lead Free Tinning Flux for use with any lead free solder,
in a green can the same size as the red can above.
Kester soldering paste, in a 2x2" square blue metal can about a half
inch high with rounded corners.
Kester All Purpose Soldering flux, liquid in a 4 oz white plastic
bottle.

I can only tell you my experience as an electronic technician for 25
years.

That ought to be good enough.

If you cannot tin the single strand wire properly it is either
coated with some substance or you are not heating it enough. Come to
think of it, why are you tinning single strand anyway? Perhaps I

Sometimes it is just part of the soldering, but last week I was doing
the strand in advance because I was soldering to pcb traces and I
wanted it to go quickly.

misunderstood and you just want to solder it on to a post or something.

That too in some cases.

You really shouldn't need any additional flux. What is in the solder
should be good enough.

Then I'll stick with my long-time practice, which usually works fine.

Thanks, and thanks all.

Just about any flux left on wires/PC boards will corrode the metal
in time.

I have heard that, but why doesn't it corrode copper pipe? Presumably it
has to do with the mass of the pipe, or is it the metal alloy?

A couple years ago I was connecting 4 pieces of #10 wire together and
couldn't twist it adequately to get a wire nut on. I soldered them together
with plumbing flux and plumbing solder, and then put a wire nut over the
whole thing. I figure it meets code, as the wire nut is the primary
connector (once I was able to get it over the wires, that is). Does the
plumbing flux somehow endanger the wire, or is the #10 heavy enough that it
doesn't matter.

(Actually, now that I think about it, I am pretty sure I used the flux that
came with the soldering iron; though I used a propane torch as the little
soldering iron wasn't putting out enough heat for all that wire. That would
be electrical fluxwouldn't it? But still, would plumbing flux hurt the
#10?)

Just went to look at the Kester paste in
the square blue tin. It
contain zinc chloride, whatever that
means. I have used it for
electronics for many years. As I
recall, this product was originally
meant for electronics, although, as we
all know, things change. I
don't think that 30 years ago anyone
cleaned PC boards after soldering.
I use it to tin stranded wire, or even a
single strand (to help in
soldering to a lug or board). It makes
tinning a whole lot easier.
Before I retired, in our electronic lab
at Bell Labs, we used a
product called "No-Korode" or some
similar spelling, but I'm
sure it was at least a little bit
corrosive.

mm wrote:
On Mon, 26 Feb 2007 00:19:59 -0500, "badgolferman"
wrote:

mm, 2/25/2007,10:55:55 PM, wrote:

I've bought at the store or at yard sales, or found in the trash or
inherited from an old guy several kinds of flux, but I've alsways
saved them for copper pipes, and relied on resin core solder to do
electronics and electrical.

Is this what you guys do?

Sometimes I have trouble getting the solder to spread out, even when
I've scraped the wire etc. with a knife and gotten it very shiny.

One case last week involved 20 gauge single strand wire that had a
white plastic covering and a black plastic covering over that, even
though there was no braid or anything (why two layers?)

Should I be using the flux in cases like this?

Are there any things I should know that aren't obvious among the
following:

Oatey No.5 solder paste, cleans, fluxes, in a round red can a half
inch high
Oatey No. 95 Lead Free Tinning Flux for use with any lead free solder,
in a green can the same size as the red can above.
Kester soldering paste, in a 2x2" square blue metal can about a half
inch high with rounded corners.
Kester All Purpose Soldering flux, liquid in a 4 oz white plastic
bottle.
I can only tell you my experience as an electronic technician for 25
years.

That ought to be good enough.

If you cannot tin the single strand wire properly it is either
coated with some substance or you are not heating it enough. Come to
think of it, why are you tinning single strand anyway? Perhaps I

Sometimes it is just part of the soldering, but last week I was doing
the strand in advance because I was soldering to pcb traces and I
wanted it to go quickly.

misunderstood and you just want to solder it on to a post or something.

That too in some cases.

You really shouldn't need any additional flux. What is in the solder
should be good enough.

Then I'll stick with my long-time practice, which usually works fine.

Thanks, and thanks all.

On Mon, 26 Feb 2007 15:33:57 GMT, Art Todesco
wrote:

Just went to look at the Kester paste in
the square blue tin. It
contain zinc chloride, whatever that
means.

Oh, yeah. Mine says that too.

I have used it for
electronics for many years. As I
recall, this product was originally
meant for electronics, although, as we
all know, things change. I
don't think that 30 years ago anyone
cleaned PC boards after soldering.

Do you mean that I'm supposed to that? when I use resin core solder?
Or if I use the Kester paste?

or are we only talking new assemblies which maybe use something else
entirely?

If they didnt' clean boards 30 years ago, I guess that's why I don't.
I've been soldering since I was 13 and only had my wood burning iron
47 years ago. (It was never quite hot enough, but I got by.)

So should I be cleaning solder conections I make now? With what?

I use it to tin stranded wire, or even a
single strand (to help in
soldering to a lug or board). It makes
tinning a whole lot easier.
Before I retired, in our electronic lab
at Bell Labs, we used a
product called "No-Korode" or some
similar spelling, but I'm
sure it was at least a little bit
corrosive.

mm wrote:
On Mon, 26 Feb 2007 00:19:59 -0500, "badgolferman"
wrote:

mm, 2/25/2007,10:55:55 PM, wrote:

I've bought at the store or at yard sales, or found in the trash or
inherited from an old guy several kinds of flux, but I've alsways
saved them for copper pipes, and relied on resin core solder to do
electronics and electrical.

Is this what you guys do?

Sometimes I have trouble getting the solder to spread out, even when
I've scraped the wire etc. with a knife and gotten it very shiny.

One case last week involved 20 gauge single strand wire that had a
white plastic covering and a black plastic covering over that, even
though there was no braid or anything (why two layers?)

Should I be using the flux in cases like this?

Are there any things I should know that aren't obvious among the
following:

Oatey No.5 solder paste, cleans, fluxes, in a round red can a half
inch high
Oatey No. 95 Lead Free Tinning Flux for use with any lead free solder,
in a green can the same size as the red can above.
Kester soldering paste, in a 2x2" square blue metal can about a half
inch high with rounded corners.
Kester All Purpose Soldering flux, liquid in a 4 oz white plastic
bottle.
I can only tell you my experience as an electronic technician for 25
years.

That ought to be good enough.

If you cannot tin the single strand wire properly it is either
coated with some substance or you are not heating it enough. Come to
think of it, why are you tinning single strand anyway? Perhaps I

Sometimes it is just part of the soldering, but last week I was doing
the strand in advance because I was soldering to pcb traces and I
wanted it to go quickly.

misunderstood and you just want to solder it on to a post or something.

That too in some cases.

You really shouldn't need any additional flux. What is in the solder
should be good enough.

Then I'll stick with my long-time practice, which usually works fine.

Thanks, and thanks all.

mm, 2/26/2007,1:36:30 PM, wrote:


So should I be cleaning solder conections I make now? With what?

Purest alcohol you can find.

badgolferman wrote:
mm, 2/26/2007,1:36:30 PM, wrote:

So should I be cleaning solder conections I make now? With what?

Purest alcohol you can find.
I usually don't bother, however, if I am
doing a board with very narrow
traces, i.e. the firewire connector on a
video editing board, I will clean
it after soldering. Alcohol is ok. I
also use spray contact cleaner with
a stiff brush .... a metal handle
glue/flux brush with the bristles cut about
half way. I have also used "Carbo-Solv"
or something like that.

On Mon, 26 Feb 2007 15:11:37 -0600, Art Todesco
wrote:

badgolferman wrote:
mm, 2/26/2007,1:36:30 PM, wrote:

So should I be cleaning solder conections I make now? With what?

Purest alcohol you can find.
I usually don't bother, however, if I am
doing a board with very narrow
traces, i.e. the firewire connector on a
video editing board, I will clean
it after soldering. Alcohol is ok. I
also use spray contact cleaner with
a stiff brush .... a metal handle
glue/flux brush with the bristles cut about
half way. I have also used "Carbo-Solv"
or something like that.

OK. I'll be good and I'll do like what you two say. Thanks again.

"badgolferman" wrote in
:

mm, 2/26/2007,1:36:30 PM, wrote:


So should I be cleaning solder conections I make now? With what?

Purest alcohol you can find.

90% isopropyl from the drug store works fine,and is inexpensive.
Apply with a Q-tip,it absorbs the dissolved flux/alk from the work.

some rosin-core solders are "no-clean",some are water-cleanable.

(21 yrs at Tektronix.)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

mm wrote in
:

On Mon, 26 Feb 2007 15:11:37 -0600, Art Todesco
wrote:

badgolferman wrote:
mm, 2/26/2007,1:36:30 PM, wrote:

So should I be cleaning solder conections I make now? With what?

Purest alcohol you can find.
I usually don't bother, however, if I am
doing a board with very narrow
traces, i.e. the firewire connector on a
video editing board, I will clean
it after soldering. Alcohol is ok. I
also use spray contact cleaner with
a stiff brush .... a metal handle
glue/flux brush with the bristles cut about
half way. I have also used "Carbo-Solv"
or something like that.

OK. I'll be good and I'll do like what you two say. Thanks again.

On really micro electronics,"cleaning the flux off" merely drives some of
it into where you don't want it.

although a final rinse with no-residue spray cleaner is a good idea.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net