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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

Looking for companies that "dip strip" doors and moldings to remove
layers of old paint -- I am in (near) Western suburbs of Boston.

Also, does anybody know what the typical cost is to dip a door? What
about moldings?

Thanks
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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

Have you tried using a heat gun?

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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

On 5 Feb 2007 13:23:38 -0800, wrote:

Have you tried using a heat gun?


If he has, that's probably why he's looking for a dip stripper.
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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

dipping doors tends to break down the glue that holds the door together
be prepared to glue all the parts back together.


"blueman" wrote in message
...
| writes:
|
| Have you tried using a heat gun?
|
| Well doors have 100+ years of lead paint etc. so probably not good to
| use a heat gun. Plus, I would prefer the convenience of a dip rather
| than hours and hours of hand scraping/heating/chemicals etc...




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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

I have been using Minutman in Somerville. Good job, but be warned, they are
slow. If they say 4 weeks it's more like 4 months.
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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

On Feb 6, 6:12 am, "Mark Monitor" wrote:
dipping doors tends to break down the glue that holds the door together
be prepared to glue all the parts back together.

"blueman" wrote in message

...| writes:

|
| Have you tried using a heat gun?
|
| Well doors have 100+ years of lead paint etc. so probably not good to
| use a heat gun. Plus, I would prefer the convenience of a dip rather
| than hours and hours of hand scraping/heating/chemicals etc...



I've done it several times, and the paint bubbles right off. I could
do a door in less time than anyone here has quoted for a dipping place
so far. Using the heat gun won't get it off to the point that you
could stain it. I repaint them. It's really not that hard if the
paint bubbles up. All the stuff you hear about lead paint is mostly
BS, it's not cryptonite. Just wear a respirator and change your
clothes and shower when you are done and do this in a well ventilated
area. I don't use chemicals on the doors, just bubble up the paint,
scrape off, then use a 1/3 sheet sander, then use some DAP plastic
wood as filler for imperfections, then prime and paint. They lok
great when I'm done.

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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

On Feb 5, 1:51 pm, wrote:
Looking for companies that "dip strip" doors and moldings to remove
layers of old paint -- I am in (near) Western suburbs of Boston.

,,,

Not even close but can only suggest looking in yellow pages for
"refinishing" or "restoration" kinds of places. Unfortunately, I
think many of these are no longer owing to EPA and to a lesser extent
OSHA regulations. In such a major metro area of the age of Boston,
though, would think it highly likely the restoration business would be
sufficient to find at least a few candidates. Would expect it won't
be cheap, but probably worth it for unique old moulding.

Good luck...I'm always glad to hear of others who will go to the
trouble to reuse and otherwise salvage old materials...

--

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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

wrote:
Norminn writes:


wrote:


Looking for companies that "dip strip" doors and moldings to remove
layers of old paint -- I am in (near) Western suburbs of Boston.
Also, does anybody know what the typical cost is to dip a door? What
about moldings?
Thanks


Dip stripping is really tough on wood and raises grain a great
deal. You might end up doing more work sanding than if you strip the
stuff yourself. Flat doors, especially.



Is it tougher than using surface applied chemicals?


There may be something newer than when I last saw wood that was dipped.
I have done lots of paint removal with good old methylene
whateveritis. When I have done chem. stripping, I never sanded. As
part of the final cleanup, on antique furniture, I scrubbed with steel
wool dipped in mineral spirits - I didn't want the wood to look brand
new, and it didn't, but was smoothe enough to refinish. Dipped wood
that I have seen had grain raised badly, very fuzzy. As someone else
pointed out, it may also loosen glue joints. You might stop by a shop
that does it to see for yourself.

I have also used torch method, but that was on exterior trim to be
repainted. With great caution, it might be the way to take off the
thickest paint, then just sand and repaint. If there is shape to the
wood, the torch would probably gum up fine grooves. Might also char if
too aggressive.


If the moldings are standard
plain molding, might be better in the long run just to replace it. If
shaped or good wood, another story.



Door and moldings are 125 years old and definitely not standard. I had
some molding knives made back a couple of years ago but did not get
enough "extra" made and the company who holds the knives now wants
$500 just to set up a run (the casing has two parts to it and they
charge $250 per molding). So rather than pay $500+ just to get about
20 feet of molding, I was hoping to strip some of the old moldings.

By the way, to be consistent with the existing architecture, I was
planning on repainting the molding (white) and staining the door to
match the rest of the interior trim.

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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

replying to dpb, marksimon112 wrote:

dpbozarth wrote:

,,,
Not even close but can only suggest looking in yellow pages for
"refinishing" or "restoration" kinds of places. Unfortunately, I
think many of these are no longer owing to EPA and to a lesser extent
OSHA regulations. In such a major metro area of the age of Boston,
though, would think it highly likely the restoration business would be
sufficient to find at least a few candidates. Would expect it won't
be cheap, but probably worth it for unique old moulding.
Good luck...I'm always glad to hear of others who will go to the
trouble to reuse and otherwise salvage old materials...
--


Does it happened really? What are you saying man!




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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

replying to nobody, Gil wrote:
Need wood doors dip and strip

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replying to nobody, Gil james wrote:
Need doors strip

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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

Gil james posted for all of us...



replying to nobody, Gil james wrote:
Need doors strip

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Doesn't Boston have their "Combat Zone"?

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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

replying to Tekkie®, soud wrote:
the best way to strip lead paint, especially thick layers, is a product called
"peel away". it is a thick paste you brush on, then cover with a sheet of
special paper. Come back in a day, and it mostly just peels away. it is a
caustic paste, you neutralize the wood afterwards with a spray of vinegar.
Sherwin williams stores sell it.

Heat guns CAN release lead fumes....so be very careful doing that. And
scraping is always better than sanding. Sanding lead paint is about the worst
thing you can do, safety wise, as the fine dust sticks to everything (like
your hair, body, the room you are working in). Not advised!

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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

soud posted for all of us...



replying to Tekkie®, soud wrote:
the best way to strip lead paint, especially thick layers, is a product called
"peel away". it is a thick paste you brush on, then cover with a sheet of
special paper. Come back in a day, and it mostly just peels away. it is a
caustic paste, you neutralize the wood afterwards with a spray of vinegar..
Sherwin williams stores sell it.

Heat guns CAN release lead fumes....so be very careful doing that. And
scraping is always better than sanding. Sanding lead paint is about the worst
thing you can do, safety wise, as the fine dust sticks to everything (like
your hair, body, the room you are working in). Not advised!

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ea-191933-.htm


WTF is this?

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Tekkie
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Default Dip-stripping company in Boston area?

Need for Dip-Stripping of wood trim South of Boston, MA

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