Hello:

Have a practically brand new Ariens snow blower with a Tecumseh engine.
Used just a few times last year; worked perfectly.
Having a bit of trouble this year. First time used this year, as we haven't
had any snow to talk about.

Starts right up, runs just fine for 5 to perhaps 8 minutes, and then stops.
Easy to start again, then same thing: 5-8 minutes, and stops.
And again.

Not clogged.
New gas.

Doubt that it needs a new plug, as it's been used probably no more than half
a dozen times since bought.
Think it can be gummed up already ?

Anyway was wondering if this "runs and then stops" symptom, for all you
engine experts out there, might suggest what
is wrong ?

Thanks,
Bob

For starters, clean the spark plug. You generally don't need a new one
except maybe every three seasons.

If you didn't run the blower engine dry at the end of the season, you
left gas in the carb, which is likely the problem Drop the fuel bowl,
clean it out with carb cleaner (spray can, any auto store). That
should do it. Also, check the air filter, if there is one.

professorpaul wrote:
For starters, clean the spark plug. You generally don't need a new one
except maybe every three seasons.

If you didn't run the blower engine dry at the end of the season, you
left gas in the carb, which is likely the problem Drop the fuel bowl,
clean it out with carb cleaner (spray can, any auto store). That
should do it. Also, check the air filter, if there is one.


Then, if you are in an area where they use ethanol drain all the gas and
run the carb dry at the end of the season. Don't depend on stabil as
the ethanol attracts water.

"Robert11" wrote in message
. ..
Hello:

Have a practically brand new Ariens snow blower with a Tecumseh engine.
Used just a few times last year; worked perfectly.
Having a bit of trouble this year. First time used this year, as we
haven't had any snow to talk about.

Starts right up, runs just fine for 5 to perhaps 8 minutes, and then
stops.
Easy to start again, then same thing: 5-8 minutes, and stops.
And again.

Not clogged.
New gas.

Doubt that it needs a new plug, as it's been used probably no more than
half a dozen times since bought.
Think it can be gummed up already ?

Anyway was wondering if this "runs and then stops" symptom, for all you
engine experts out there, might suggest what
is wrong ?

Thanks,
Bob


Possibly a plugged gas tank vent. However, if the engine starts up well
immediately after a stall, the logic for this analysis fails. With a time
lapse after the stall, an incomplete blockage might pass enough air to
permit another run cycle.

SJF

SJF

Rich256 wrote:
professorpaul wrote:
For starters, clean the spark plug. You generally don't need a new
one except maybe every three seasons.

If you didn't run the blower engine dry at the end of the season, you
left gas in the carb, which is likely the problem Drop the fuel bowl,
clean it out with carb cleaner (spray can, any auto store). That
should do it. Also, check the air filter, if there is one.


Then, if you are in an area where they use ethanol drain all the gas
and run the carb dry at the end of the season. Don't depend on
stabil as the ethanol attracts water.

It's better to run the tank dry, but your comment on Stabil is just plain
silly. I've used it for years and the only downside is a little smoke the
first time it's started if one forgets to top off the tank. Plus maybe an
extra pull or couple seconds on the electric starter that first time.
Stabil is great for overwintering or oversummering.
When you don't know what you're talking about, don't talk about it.

Pop`

On Feb 3, 6:04 pm, "SJF" wrote:
"Robert11" wrote in message

. ..





Hello:

Have a practically brand new Ariens snow blower with a Tecumseh engine.
Used just a few times last year; worked perfectly.
Having a bit of trouble this year. First time used this year, as we
haven't had any snow to talk about.

Starts right up, runs just fine for 5 to perhaps 8 minutes, and then
stops.
Easy to start again, then same thing: 5-8 minutes, and stops.
And again.

Not clogged.
New gas.

Doubt that it needs a new plug, as it's been used probably no more than
half a dozen times since bought.
Think it can be gummed up already ?

Anyway was wondering if this "runs and then stops" symptom, for all you
engine experts out there, might suggest what
is wrong ?

Thanks,
Bob

Possibly a plugged gas tank vent. However, if the engine starts up well
immediately after a stall, the logic for this analysis fails. With a time
lapse after the stall, an incomplete blockage might pass enough air to
permit another run cycle.

SJF

SJF- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I had the same situation with a lawn mower.

Except it would run for only 10 seconds or so before stopping.

As it turns out there was a crack in the rubber fuel line which opened
only when the engine was taking on gas letting air in and causing it
to stall.

When it stopped running the crack closed back up and the engine would
restart with ease only to stop again moments later.

You may want to check that as well.

wrote:

On Feb 3, 6:04 pm, "SJF" wrote:
"Robert11" wrote in message

. ..





Hello:

Have a practically brand new Ariens snow blower with a Tecumseh engine.
Used just a few times last year; worked perfectly.
Having a bit of trouble this year. First time used this year, as we
haven't had any snow to talk about.

Starts right up, runs just fine for 5 to perhaps 8 minutes, and then
stops.
Easy to start again, then same thing: 5-8 minutes, and stops.
And again.

Not clogged.
New gas.

Doubt that it needs a new plug, as it's been used probably no more than
half a dozen times since bought.
Think it can be gummed up already ?

Anyway was wondering if this "runs and then stops" symptom, for all you
engine experts out there, might suggest what
is wrong ?
I had the same situation with a lawn mower.

Except it would run for only 10 seconds or so before stopping.

As it turns out there was a crack in the rubber fuel line which opened
only when the engine was taking on gas letting air in and causing it
to stall.

Cracks in rubber and seals becoming brittle in the fuel system can be caused by
ethanol. Thanks to the MTBE opposition and last year's switchover to ethanol
blending with gasoline in many areas, a lot of snow blowers are just now seeing
their first longer term exposure to more corrosive ethanol.

I used to store my equipment with the gas tanks full and stabilized, but it will
probably be better now to leave them empty. Ethanol corrodes things it touches
and absorbs moisture, both of which are bad news for fuel systems.

Pop` wrote:

Rich256 wrote:
professorpaul wrote:
For starters, clean the spark plug. You generally don't need a new
one except maybe every three seasons.

If you didn't run the blower engine dry at the end of the season, you
left gas in the carb, which is likely the problem Drop the fuel bowl,
clean it out with carb cleaner (spray can, any auto store). That
should do it. Also, check the air filter, if there is one.


Then, if you are in an area where they use ethanol drain all the gas
and run the carb dry at the end of the season. Don't depend on
stabil as the ethanol attracts water.

It's better to run the tank dry, but your comment on Stabil is just plain
silly. I've used it for years and the only downside is a little smoke the
first time it's started if one forgets to top off the tank. Plus maybe an
extra pull or couple seconds on the electric starter that first time.
Stabil is great for overwintering or oversummering.
When you don't know what you're talking about, don't talk about it.

I'm sure you used Stabil for years with no problems, but this year is the
first year for most snowblowers encountering ethanol in their fuel systems.
Without ethanol, leaving the carb wet with stabilized fuel helped prevent
seals and components from drying out and causing problems. With ethanol, the
fuel system is under attack by both the corrosive nature of the alcohol and
the moisture that it absorbs over time (both before and after you buy it and
put it in your tank.

Taylor wrote:
Pop` wrote:

Rich256 wrote:
professorpaul wrote:
For starters, clean the spark plug. You generally don't need a new
one except maybe every three seasons.

If you didn't run the blower engine dry at the end of the season, you
left gas in the carb, which is likely the problem Drop the fuel bowl,
clean it out with carb cleaner (spray can, any auto store). That
should do it. Also, check the air filter, if there is one.

Then, if you are in an area where they use ethanol drain all the gas
and run the carb dry at the end of the season. Don't depend on
stabil as the ethanol attracts water.
It's better to run the tank dry, but your comment on Stabil is just plain
silly. I've used it for years and the only downside is a little smoke the
first time it's started if one forgets to top off the tank. Plus maybe an
extra pull or couple seconds on the electric starter that first time.
Stabil is great for overwintering or oversummering.
When you don't know what you're talking about, don't talk about it.

I'm sure you used Stabil for years with no problems, but this year is the
first year for most snowblowers encountering ethanol in their fuel systems.
Without ethanol, leaving the carb wet with stabilized fuel helped prevent
seals and components from drying out and causing problems. With ethanol, the
fuel system is under attack by both the corrosive nature of the alcohol and
the moisture that it absorbs over time (both before and after you buy it and
put it in your tank.



If it is your first year with ethanol you are fortunate. In the west we
have been stuck with it every winter. And the stations usually stock it
all year because the government give them a break on the ethanol.

Most users manuals have picked up the warning about leaving gas in the
tanks over summer due to the corrosion by the ethanol/water mix. They
specify that the tank should be drained.

Had the same problem with my generator.( Tecumseh Engine) When the unit got
warm The intake valve would stick open. I took it out put in drill and used
emery paper took off one half thousands and ran fine after that. It still
starts hard though FYI I will not buy any more Tecumseh products. Everyone
Iv owned I had problems with . I just had a 5 year old engine blow up and
put the rod out the back of the engine. Upon examination I found no reason
this should have happened.The cylinder walls and rod and crankshaft showed
no signs of overheating or damage and the oil was checked prior to use. And
yes I'm timely about oil changes
You MUST drain your fuel after the season ends.
Also there is a summer and winter formulation Iv been told. I dump all my
spare gas in my truck every two months and refill all my cans with fresh gas
I also prefer the old fashion glass sediment bowl to monitor the fuel
condition and water in your fuel.
I just bought a new rider and that is the first thing that will get changed
"Robert11" wrote in message
. ..
Hello:

Have a practically brand new Ariens snow blower with a Tecumseh engine.
Used just a few times last year; worked perfectly.
Having a bit of trouble this year. First time used this year, as we
haven't had any snow to talk about.

Starts right up, runs just fine for 5 to perhaps 8 minutes, and then
stops.
Easy to start again, then same thing: 5-8 minutes, and stops.
And again.

Not clogged.
New gas.

Doubt that it needs a new plug, as it's been used probably no more than
half a dozen times since bought.
Think it can be gummed up already ?

Anyway was wondering if this "runs and then stops" symptom, for all you
engine experts out there, might suggest what
is wrong ?

Thanks,
Bob

Larry and a Cat named Dub wrote:
Had the same problem with my generator.( Tecumseh Engine) When the unit got
warm The intake valve would stick open. I took it out put in drill and used
emery paper took off one half thousands and ran fine after that. It still
starts hard though FYI I will not buy any more Tecumseh products. Everyone
Iv owned I had problems with . I just had a 5 year old engine blow up and
put the rod out the back of the engine. Upon examination I found no reason
this should have happened.The cylinder walls and rod and crankshaft showed
no signs of overheating or damage and the oil was checked prior to use. And
yes I'm timely about oil changes
You MUST drain your fuel after the season ends.
Also there is a summer and winter formulation Iv been told. I dump all my
spare gas in my truck every two months and refill all my cans with fresh gas
I also prefer the old fashion glass sediment bowl to monitor the fuel
condition and water in your fuel.
I just bought a new rider and that is the first thing that will get changed
"Robert11" wrote in message
. ..

I question if the glass bowl would show water with ethanol. The damn
stuff mixes with it and becomes very corrosive. In my area we have had
ethanol for 10 or 16 years. They outlawed MTBE many years ago after
detecting high levels in the rivers. And as I said before all the
stations now use it all year because they can sell it cheaper.

I just checked my blower manual ( Tecumseh engine) and it indeed
specifies that all gas using ethanol should be drained at the end of the
season.

On 3 Feb 2007 13:11:30 -0800, "professorpaul"
wrote:

For starters, clean the spark plug. You generally don't need a new one
except maybe every three seasons.

If you didn't run the blower engine dry at the end of the season, you
left gas in the carb, which is likely the problem Drop the fuel bowl,
clean it out with carb cleaner (spray can, any auto store). That
should do it. Also, check the air filter, if there is one.

The bowl itself can be dirty and cause problems?

I would think it would be the jets, which are small.

Versus the bowl which is big, and where the new clean gasoline only
sits on top of any dirty residue for a few minutes until it goes into
the cylinders. Can new clean gas dissolve the dried up crud in the
bottom of the bowl? I would think not, or we wouldn't need carburetor
cleaner.

Larry and a Cat named Dub wrote:
Had the same problem with my generator.( Tecumseh Engine) When the unit got
warm The intake valve would stick open. I took it out put in drill and used
emery paper took off one half thousands and ran fine after that. It still
starts hard though FYI I will not buy any more Tecumseh products. Everyone
Iv owned I had problems with . I just had a 5 year old engine blow up and
put the rod out the back of the engine. Upon examination I found no reason
this should have happened.The cylinder walls and rod and crankshaft showed
no signs of overheating or damage and the oil was checked prior to use. And
yes I'm timely about oil changes
You MUST drain your fuel after the season ends.
Also there is a summer and winter formulation Iv been told. I dump all my
spare gas in my truck every two months and refill all my cans with fresh gas
I also prefer the old fashion glass sediment bowl to monitor the fuel
condition and water in your fuel.
I just bought a new rider and that is the first thing that will get changed

Assuming you are correct that the failure was not oil related, the only
other reason a Tecumseh will throw a rod that violently is governor
failure or override. The usual cause of governor failure is gum and
varnish in the carburetor from stale fuel.

Good luck finding a glass bowl. You'd be better to find a filter with a
clear housing, such as the 65 micron one from Briggs and Stratton, or
the replacement for the Tecumseh 34279B offered by Rotary aftermarket
parts which is the same filter material in a clear housing instead of
opaque grey (like Tecumseh used to use).

On Feb 4, 6:38 pm, mm wrote:
On 3 Feb 2007 13:11:30 -0800, "professorpaul"
wrote:

For starters, clean the spark plug. You generally don't need a new one
except maybe every three seasons.

If you didn't run the blower engine dry at the end of the season, you
left gas in the carb, which is likely the problem Drop the fuel bowl,
clean it out with carb cleaner (spray can, any auto store). That
should do it. Also, check the air filter, if there is one.

The bowl itself can be dirty and cause problems?

I would think it would be the jets, which are small.

Versus the bowl which is big, and where the new clean gasoline only
sits on top of any dirty residue for a few minutes until it goes into
the cylinders. Can new clean gas dissolve the dried up crud in the
bottom of the bowl? I would think not, or we wouldn't need carburetor
cleaner.


You can have loose crud in the bowl that gets swirled around, then at
some point it gets sucked against one of the jets, engine dies.
Crud chunk is big enough it doesn't get stuck in the jet, it just
falls off and waits for its chance to do a repeat performance.

Dave

Over reving was my first thought too I had earlier this year checked the rpm
and it was ok
I think the rod bolt came loose but that is as they say water over the dam
Ah the glass bowls I bought several of them years ago $5.00- $13.00 ea and
swear by them. Never broke one and they have proved themselves by me. My
neighbor replaced his plastic filter and could not get it to release the air
and it kept getting air locked. Changed the filter and it was ok after that
The bottom line is nobody builds any thing to last anymore
Cheaper and out the door is the motto. Consumer Beware.
"Husky" wrote in message
...
Larry and a Cat named Dub wrote:
Had the same problem with my generator.( Tecumseh Engine) When the unit
got warm The intake valve would stick open. I took it out put in drill
and used emery paper took off one half thousands and ran fine after
that. It still starts hard though FYI I will not buy any more Tecumseh
products. Everyone Iv owned I had problems with . I just had a 5 year old
engine blow up and put the rod out the back of the engine. Upon
examination I found no reason this should have happened.The cylinder
walls and rod and crankshaft showed no signs of overheating or damage and
the oil was checked prior to use. And yes I'm timely about oil changes
You MUST drain your fuel after the season ends.
Also there is a summer and winter formulation Iv been told. I dump all my
spare gas in my truck every two months and refill all my cans with fresh
gas
I also prefer the old fashion glass sediment bowl to monitor the fuel
condition and water in your fuel.
I just bought a new rider and that is the first thing that will get
changed

Assuming you are correct that the failure was not oil related, the only
other reason a Tecumseh will throw a rod that violently is governor
failure or override. The usual cause of governor failure is gum and
varnish in the carburetor from stale fuel.

Good luck finding a glass bowl. You'd be better to find a filter with a
clear housing, such as the 65 micron one from Briggs and Stratton, or the
replacement for the Tecumseh 34279B offered by Rotary aftermarket parts
which is the same filter material in a clear housing instead of opaque
grey (like Tecumseh used to use).

On 7 Feb 2007 15:20:26 -0800, wrote:

On Feb 4, 6:38 pm, mm wrote:
On 3 Feb 2007 13:11:30 -0800, "professorpaul"
wrote:

For starters, clean the spark plug. You generally don't need a new one
except maybe every three seasons.

If you didn't run the blower engine dry at the end of the season, you
left gas in the carb, which is likely the problem Drop the fuel bowl,
clean it out with carb cleaner (spray can, any auto store). That
should do it. Also, check the air filter, if there is one.

The bowl itself can be dirty and cause problems?

I would think it would be the jets, which are small.

Versus the bowl which is big, and where the new clean gasoline only
sits on top of any dirty residue for a few minutes until it goes into
the cylinders. Can new clean gas dissolve the dried up crud in the
bottom of the bowl? I would think not, or we wouldn't need carburetor
cleaner.


You can have loose crud in the bowl that gets swirled around, then at
some point it gets sucked against one of the jets, engine dies.
Crud chunk is big enough it doesn't get stuck in the jet, it just
falls off and waits for its chance to do a repeat performance.

OK. Thanks. I'll have to look for that when it seems relevant.

P&M

Dave