While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
(probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.

Jeffy3 wrote:
While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
(probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.

You can replace the entire thing if you take the tank off the bowl.
Brass is way better than plastic.

Use a sawzall to cut the bolts attaching tank to bowl, those bolts will
be rusted frozen in place

you can try to play with the old original parts. for our 20 tenants and
ourselves, we have changed our toilets to fluidmaster parts. you'll be
using the secondary toilet during this repair. i would: wetvac, old
towels, water off, suck water from tank, remove water supply nut,
disconnect upper tank, replace broken item, replace all tank parts and
rubber parts and any rubber cushions between water tank and bowl,
install new bolt set. we like to install fluidmaster flusher fixer for
a complete flush. replace fill valve [ballcock], inspect and replace
flush handle as needed. before you start: you know the floor bolts and
wax seal can now be updated easier with the upper tank off because of
the water and the weight. fate will determine if the next sewer
blockage reveals the wax seal is bad. see new waxless seal by
fluidmaster. suck water from bowl, take nuts off bolts, rock and lift
bowl gently holding it level then dump it onto old towels in tub and
rest it upside down there. fluidmaster directions are great on their
website and in their packaging. repair floor flange if broken. install
new floor bolts. buy the american standard part if you can get away
with it but if you put all new parts in you might be good for another
long stretch of years. surprisingly the toilet parts are inexpensive.
buy a nice new seat. buy a variety of all of them and return what you
don't use. see them all at:
www.fluidmaster.com
see also parts at:
www.hdsupply.com

Jeffy3 wrote:
While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
(probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.

leaks can be minimized by putting silicon bathtub caulk on all sealing
surfaces after drying everything well.

then let the reassembled toilet sit a couple hours so it cures well

This taught to me by a old plumber who tired of taking stugf apart
twice.

Stuff peels right off if ever necessary no long term damage

Jeffy3 wrote:

While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
(probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.


Get the finest tooth hacksaw blade. Break off
one end, so that you can work the teeth in closer.
Hold the blade vertical inside the brass fitting.
(Use a good glove)
Scrape the threads with the teeth as you revolve
the blade around the fitting opening. With some
effort and patience you should be able to extract
the broken brass threads.

Take the old tube to a big hardware store
(I doubt that BigBox will be much help.)
There are 3 different Refill tube (Overflow) diameters.
Match one up. Saw cut to proper length.
Use sealant (Loctite) on the threads.

Jim

Buy the repair kit from FluidMaster and fix the whole tank while you
have it off, never use caulking as it doesn.t work here. The earlier
post suggesting it forget, use the proper seals and washers you won,t
need it. I have done this for 25 yrs and it is not hard. Saying that I
think you said it was 20 plus years old consider a new one
Jeffy3 wrote:
While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
(probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.

jim wrote:
Buy the repair kit from FluidMaster and fix the whole tank while you
have it off, never use caulking as it doesn.t work here. The earlier
post suggesting it forget, use the proper seals and washers you won,t
need it. I have done this for 25 yrs and it is not hard. Saying that I
think you said it was 20 plus years old consider a new one
Jeffy3 wrote:
While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
(probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.

DEFINETELY USE ALL NEW WASHERS AND HARDWARE!

The silicone bathtub caulk is a belt and suspenders pproach and saves
multiple reassemblies

jim wrote:

Buy the repair kit from FluidMaster and fix the whole tank while you
have it off, never use caulking as it doesn.t work here. The earlier
post suggesting it forget, use the proper seals and washers you won,t
need it. I have done this for 25 yrs and it is not hard. Saying that I
think you said it was 20 plus years old consider a new one

If it's 20 years old, that makes it even more worthwhile to fix it
rather than get a new (low flow) one.

Jeffy3 wrote:

While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
(probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.




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minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

Speedy Jim wrote:
Jeffy3 wrote:

While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
(probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.


Get the finest tooth hacksaw blade. Break off
one end, so that you can work the teeth in closer.
Hold the blade vertical inside the brass fitting.
(Use a good glove)
Scrape the threads with the teeth as you revolve
the blade around the fitting opening. With some
effort and patience you should be able to extract
the broken brass threads.

Take the old tube to a big hardware store
(I doubt that BigBox will be much help.)
There are 3 different Refill tube (Overflow) diameters.
Match one up. Saw cut to proper length.
Use sealant (Loctite) on the threads.

Jim


Jiim, thanks. I think I'll give that a try and then call a plumber if
it doesn't work. I don't mine keeping the economy going by paying a
plumber. I just didn't want to pay one to replace the flapper valve,
which is a job that doesn't even require tools!

In article .com,
says...

Jeffy3 wrote:
While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
(probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.

You can replace the entire thing if you take the tank off the bowl.
Brass is way better than plastic.

Use a sawzall to cut the bolts attaching tank to bowl, those bolts will
be rusted frozen in place

Sawzall? Nutz, use a Dremmel tool with a cut-off wheel to slice
the nuts in half and you won't break the tank or the bowl.

*Always* replace all hardware (including gaskets) when you got a
toilet apart. It's easy.

--
Keith

Speedy Jim wrote:

Get the finest tooth hacksaw blade. Break off
one end, so that you can work the teeth in closer.
Hold the blade vertical inside the brass fitting.
(Use a good glove)
Scrape the threads with the teeth as you revolve
the blade around the fitting opening. With some
effort and patience you should be able to extract
the broken brass threads.

Take the old tube to a big hardware store
(I doubt that BigBox will be much help.)
There are 3 different Refill tube (Overflow) diameters.
Match one up. Saw cut to proper length.
Use sealant (Loctite) on the threads.

Jim

Jim thanks again. This worked like a charm. The toilet is up and
running (pun intended).

Jeffy3 wrote:
While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
(probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.

I notice you've already fixed it, but I'll answer anyway!
You can usually get hold of the threaded stub with needlenose pliers or
even tweezers, and it's so thin you can just kind of fold it inwards
from the threads to remove it. Sears Hardware sells replacement thread
overflow tubes, both brass (one size only) and plastic (with two sizes
of threads on the different ends). I replaced mine very easily, and
never could get it to stop leaking after that!

z wrote:


I notice you've already fixed it, but I'll answer anyway!
You can usually get hold of the threaded stub with needlenose pliers or
even tweezers, and it's so thin you can just kind of fold it inwards
from the threads to remove it. Sears Hardware sells replacement thread
overflow tubes, both brass (one size only) and plastic (with two sizes
of threads on the different ends). I replaced mine very easily, and
never could get it to stop leaking after that!

Thanks for the response anyway, and for the warning. How apparent was
the leaking? Was it obvious or did it take a while to realize it was
happening?

Jeffy3 wrote:
z wrote:


I notice you've already fixed it, but I'll answer anyway!
You can usually get hold of the threaded stub with needlenose pliers or
even tweezers, and it's so thin you can just kind of fold it inwards
from the threads to remove it. Sears Hardware sells replacement thread
overflow tubes, both brass (one size only) and plastic (with two sizes
of threads on the different ends). I replaced mine very easily, and
never could get it to stop leaking after that!

Thanks for the response anyway, and for the warning. How apparent was
the leaking? Was it obvious or did it take a while to realize it was
happening?

It was the slow drool, which you could see immediately as minute
rippling in the water in the bowl. Tried removal and replacement, with
teflon tape, no dice; also, all extraneous sealants around the threads.
I assume the threads had also corroded, to the point where nothing
would seal. Ended up replacing the flush valve. Messy but educational,
and relatively quick.

replying to Speedy Jim, Paulie wrote:
volks wrote:

Get the finest tooth hacksaw blade. Break off
one end, so that you can work the teeth in closer.
Hold the blade vertical inside the brass fitting.
(Use a good glove)
Scrape the threads with the teeth as you revolve
the blade around the fitting opening. With some
effort and patience you should be able to extract
the broken brass threads.
Take the old tube to a big hardware store
(I doubt that BigBox will be much help.)
There are 3 different Refill tube (Overflow) diameters.
Match one up. Saw cut to proper length.
Use sealant (Loctite) on the threads.
Jim



Jim - Well its been a lot of years since you posted this fix, it worked
like a charm for me too! We have a 1926 Camden Pottery toilet that was
original in our Boston home and still working great today. I thought for
sure I was going to have to replace the entire flush valve and crack those
ancient nuts on the elbow connecting our wall mounted tank to the bowl. I
had no idea that their were threads and this method was great time-saver!
Less than $4 for a new brass overflow valve, an Old Milwaukee mini Hacksaw
for less than $15 and a pair of 32 TPI fine hacksaw blades for $3 and I
was all set. I thought I was going to have to keep scraping the threads
until they were gone, but using a headlamp I thought I saw them rotate
and, sure enough, I was able to rotate them out in one piece by hand.

Thanks so much Speedy Jim!



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