I have a low level toilet cistern, which has never been any bother until
just the other day. For some strange reason the level within the cistern is
now rising too high and makes an exit out of the overflow pipe, which
unfortunately is leaking from a small joint.
What is likely to be causing the water to be rising about an 2 centimetres
higher than it ever did before. And if I could manage to stem the leak from
this overflow pipe with some tcp tape, should I not worry about the water
level?

Thanks in advance
douglas

"Douglas Sey" wrote in message
...
I have a low level toilet cistern, which has never been any bother until
just the other day. For some strange reason the level within the cistern
is
now rising too high and makes an exit out of the overflow pipe, which
unfortunately is leaking from a small joint.
What is likely to be causing the water to be rising about an 2 centimetres
higher than it ever did before. And if I could manage to stem the leak
from
this overflow pipe with some tcp tape, should I not worry about the water
level?

Thanks in advance
douglas



Is it a plastic float valve ? Or is it brass ?

If it's plastic, then you have to adjust the pressure pin. You do this by
turning the bolt thingy on the ball arm, near the main body of the valve.
Two or three turns should be enough. If this doesn't work, then you'll have
to change the washer in the valve body itself. You should also see a bolt
between the valve body and the side of the cistern. Make sure this is
actually touching against the side of the cistern, because, if it isn't, it
actually allows the valve pipe to bend with the pressure of the ball arm
being forced upward by the water.

If it's brass, you might get a few more years if you adjust the ball arm
down toward the water a bit. This is done by slowly bending the metal ball
arm down toward the water. If this doesn't work, then you'll have to change
the washer in the valve body itself. Be careful not to put to much upward
lift on the ball arm, because the joint at the valve body is the weakest
part of the valve and is designed not to allow the arm past a horizontal
position.

On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 00:13:08 GMT, "BigWallop"
wrote:

If it's plastic, then you have to adjust the pressure pin. You do this by
turning the bolt thingy on the ball arm, near the main body of the valve.
Two or three turns should be enough. If this doesn't work, then you'll have
to change the washer in the valve body itself. You should also see a bolt
between the valve body and the side of the cistern. Make sure this is
actually touching against the side of the cistern, because, if it isn't, it
actually allows the valve pipe to bend with the pressure of the ball arm
being forced upward by the water.

There is also the possibility that the ball has developed a small
hole, and is now "sinking" rather than floating. Easy to tell - take
the ball off the arm and shake it - if it has water inside then the
ball is compromised.

It is also possible that the arm on which the ball is held is rubbing
against the syphon mechanism. Make sure the ball can travel up and
down without catching.

The third possibility I can think of is that the small adjustment
screw which causes the valve to shut off when the float rises is
insecure, and over time has unwound enough to allow more water in.
Wind this screw in a little (and secure with the lock nut) so that the
water level is reduced.

Fixing the leak isn't the solution here, getting the water level right
is.

PoP

depending on where you live you could have a small piece of grit/scale from
hard water etc blocking the valve inside. Remove the whole thing after
turning the supply to the cistern of and clean it.

In article ,
Douglas Sey wrote:
I have a low level toilet cistern, which has never been any bother until
just the other day. For some strange reason the level within the cistern
is now rising too high and makes an exit out of the overflow pipe, which
unfortunately is leaking from a small joint. What is likely to be
causing the water to be rising about an 2 centimetres higher than it
ever did before. And if I could manage to stem the leak from this
overflow pipe with some tcp tape, should I not worry about the water
level?

The overflow is there for just such a fault where the 'ball valve'
assembly has failed in some way, but the reason for this failure should be
fixed otherwise you're simply wasting water.

Torbeck valves - they are the small plastic ones - can often respond to a
careful clean especially in a hard water area, or replace the diaphragm if
punctured. The older type with a large ball valve will probably need a new
washer. Both will require the water turned off to fix, but are pretty
straightforward otherwise.

--
*No sentence fragments *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

And if I could manage to stem the leak from this overflow pipe with some
tcp tape, should I not worry about the water level?

Talk about curing the symptom rather than the disease!

You need to work out why the valve hasn't turned off the water before the
level gets too high. Blocking up the overflow is not the solution!

Does the ball valve work? Does it stick on something? Has the ball get a
leak and taken on water? Has the washer worn through?

Christian.