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#1
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Preventing Freezing Laundry Pipes
I'm looking for suggestions on how best to finish my laundry room so the water supply pipes for the washing machine won't freeze. Both the hot and cold supply lines run across the bottom of the joists and then down the basement wall. I believe there is only about an inch between the pipes and the cement. Should I try and stuff insulation behind and in front of the pipes before putting up vapour barrier and drywall? Should I build a box around the pipes, leaving them exposed to the room and insulate/drywall the rest of the wall? I'm at a loss as the best way to protect the pipes while minimizing the amount of cold air coming off the cement into the room. Thanks for the insights! Lorraine |
#2
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Preventing Freezing Laundry Pipes
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#4
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Preventing Freezing Laundry Pipes
For maximum protection, the insulation in exterior walls should be
between the outside wall and the pipes. You don't want insulation between the pipes and the interior wall, as that will block heat from inside the house from reaching the pipes. |
#6
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Preventing Freezing Laundry Pipes
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#7
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Preventing Freezing Laundry Pipes
On Thu, 30 Nov 2006 21:21:23 -0500, "jackson"
wrote: Don't forget to think about the drain too. Nothing worse then having your washer empty into a frozen drain pipe, now that's a mess! Isn't a basement drain normally below the freeze line? How cold does it have to be outside for the drain to freeze? |
#8
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Preventing Freezing Laundry Pipes
I've heard plenty of stories of people who leave their country homes
or who move (and leave the house to a realtor) and their pipes froze and burst. This begs an interesting (pardon, tangential) question: They build firewalls for skyscraper stairways. In some skyscrapers, the bathrooms are with the stairs and the elevators, away from the offices. So why not build the bathrooms, kitchens, laundry, furnace and utility rooms into like their own (structurally) isolated unit, so if the blow, they can't damage the rest? I mean, in my house, the water heater is under one of the bedrooms, the bathrooms are over a basement storage area. The bathrooms & kitchens could at least have been built on top of the utility rooms. It would even be less work for the builder. - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}--- [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards] [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos] |
#9
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Preventing Freezing Laundry Pipes
Another tangent: cf bocciabros.com waterproofing engineers Not connected to them, just attended one of their seminars. - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}--- [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards] [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos] |
#10
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Preventing Freezing Laundry Pipes
wrote: I've heard plenty of stories of people who leave their country homes or who move (and leave the house to a realtor) and their pipes froze and burst. This begs an interesting (pardon, tangential) question: They build firewalls for skyscraper stairways. In some skyscrapers, the bathrooms are with the stairs and the elevators, away from the offices. So why not build the bathrooms, kitchens, laundry, furnace and utility rooms into like their own (structurally) isolated unit, so if the blow, they can't damage the rest? How much do you think this would add to construction cost and how many people would be willing to pay for it? In 45 years, I've had one minor flood from a leaking pipe. My cost to fix it was $0 and the damage was close to $0 too, as the water was from a leaking toiledt supply line and the water just pooled on the basement floor. To build homes as you suggest isn't simple and would add many thousands to the construction cost. I mean, in my house, the water heater is under one of the bedrooms, the bathrooms are over a basement storage area. The bathrooms & kitchens could at least have been built on top of the utility rooms. It would even be less work for the builder. In most new construction, there already is a lot of overlap. It's typical to see bathrooms set up back to back, or one above the other on different floors. That reduces cost, where it's practical and possible to do. But what you are suggesting goes way beyond that, as now you have to leakproof the bathroom above from everything else adjacent and below. That means a lot of sealing to catch the water, then drains, etc. It could be done, but if you presented home buyers with a house with your features, or an identical one at the same price that instead had features like upgraded appliances, or granite countertops, which house do you think 99% of folks would choose? - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}--- [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards] [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos] |
#11
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Preventing Freezing Laundry Pipes, spin off
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#12
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Preventing Freezing Laundry Pipes
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#13
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Preventing Freezing Laundry Pipes with low temp hot water circulation
Using a standard hot water recirculator can be very expensive due to
the non-adjustable factory set high hot water temp. Consider the Redytemp hot water circulation system http://www.redytemp.com. It has easy tool-less adjustable temperature control from 50F to 115F if I'm not mistaken. Set it to it's lowest setting and the low flow / low power should prevent pipes from freezing. On Fri, 01 Dec 2006 01:34:01 GMT, (Beachcomber) wrote: On 30 Nov 2006 16:46:33 -0800, wrote: I'm looking for suggestions on how best to finish my laundry room so the water supply pipes for the washing machine won't freeze. Both the hot and cold supply lines run across the bottom of the joists and then down the basement wall. I believe there is only about an inch between the pipes and the cement. Should I try and stuff insulation behind and in front of the pipes before putting up vapour barrier and drywall? Should I build a box around the pipes, leaving them exposed to the room and insulate/drywall the rest of the wall? I'm at a loss as the best way to protect the pipes while minimizing the amount of cold air coming off the cement into the room. Thanks for the insights! Lorraine Pipes don't need to be touching an exterior wall to freeze up. The important point is the ambient temp of the space around the pipes and how low does that get. Specifically, does it go below 32F for an extended period time. Insulation wrap around the pipe won't necessarily help either. It does preserve some of the latent heat from the water in the pipe itself, but again, if the water is standing still for long periods of time in a freezing location, the pipe will certainly freeze. There are also electric heat tapes to help with this condition. The problem is that they use energy, may be a fire hazard under certain conditions, and you generally have no indication when they fail (other then the pipes freeze up again). Best solution, keep pipes away from exterior walls and unheated spaces. Also, run the water a trickle when it gets super cold if you can't move the pipes. Beachcomber |
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