The folks that built my little brick bungalow in the midwest back in
'54 didn't screw up everything. Most of it is pretty solid.

The 2 24k certified time bombs I'm aware of involve drain pipes
in kitchen and bath that were sealed inside the wall.

The bath hasn't failed quite yet. In the kitchen I've had to tear
thru tile and plaster/steel-lath just to find the juncture of a 2"
lead drain with a vertical roof-vented cast-iron stack. I'm not even
certain how to get the corroded, leaking pipe out, let alone how to
get new stuff in, as 2/3 of the length is behind the cabinet/sinktop
which can't be moved.

Does there exist 2" flexible drain pipe that meets common bldg.
codes for such an application? If so, any description etc would be
much appreciated.

TIA,
Puddin'

Pease pudding hot,
Pease pudding cold,
Pease pudding in the pot
Nine days old ...

Puddin' Man wrote:


The folks that built my little brick bungalow in the midwest back in
'54 didn't screw up everything. Most of it is pretty solid.

The 2 24k certified time bombs I'm aware of involve drain pipes
in kitchen and bath that were sealed inside the wall.

The bath hasn't failed quite yet. In the kitchen I've had to tear
thru tile and plaster/steel-lath just to find the juncture of a 2"
lead drain with a vertical roof-vented cast-iron stack. I'm not even
certain how to get the corroded, leaking pipe out, let alone how to
get new stuff in, as 2/3 of the length is behind the cabinet/sinktop
which can't be moved.

Does there exist 2" flexible drain pipe that meets common bldg.
codes for such an application? If so, any description etc would be
much appreciated.

TIA,
Puddin'

Pease pudding hot,
Pease pudding cold,
Pease pudding in the pot
Nine days old ...


The only flexible material that comes close is Type L
soft copper tubing. You could use 1 1/2" size
although I'll be the first to admit Type L does not quite
make it code-wise for DWV application.

Snaking it thru a tight wall could be a "challenge".

There are heavy-wall vinyl tubing sizes but anything
like that is going to have the appearance of a
shoe-maker job :-) Maybe heavy black poly pipe.
Pretty stiff though.

Jim

Puddin' Man wrote:

Does there exist 2" flexible drain pipe that meets common bldg. codes for
such an application? If so, any description etc would be much
appreciated.

I have no idea about codes, but the kitchen in my last house was a problem.
I replaced the drain with steam hose. It lasted for many years and was
still in place when I moved.

Puddin' Man wrote:
The folks that built my little brick bungalow in the midwest back in
'54 didn't screw up everything. Most of it is pretty solid.

The 2 24k certified time bombs I'm aware of involve drain pipes
in kitchen and bath that were sealed inside the wall.

The bath hasn't failed quite yet. In the kitchen I've had to tear
thru tile and plaster/steel-lath just to find the juncture of a 2"
lead drain with a vertical roof-vented cast-iron stack. I'm not even
certain how to get the corroded, leaking pipe out, let alone how to
get new stuff in, as 2/3 of the length is behind the cabinet/sinktop
which can't be moved.
....

I presume this is an exterior wall? If not, opening the wall from the
other side comes to mind. Or can you make access from the basement or
a crawl space?

Otherwise, it's probably then a toss-up as to whether a kitchen remodel
or a brick-removal/restoration project is the larger hassle...

I don't have any other suggestions than those already made as for
something else to try a repair-in-place. While there might be, I'm
certainly not aware of a code-compliant product.

Puddin' Man wrote:


The folks that built my little brick bungalow in the midwest back in
'54 didn't screw up everything. Most of it is pretty solid.

The 2 24k certified time bombs I'm aware of involve drain pipes
in kitchen and bath that were sealed inside the wall.

The bath hasn't failed quite yet. In the kitchen I've had to tear
thru tile and plaster/steel-lath just to find the juncture of a 2"
lead drain with a vertical roof-vented cast-iron stack. I'm not even
certain how to get the corroded, leaking pipe out, let alone how to
get new stuff in, as 2/3 of the length is behind the cabinet/sinktop
which can't be moved.

Does there exist 2" flexible drain pipe that meets common bldg.
codes for such an application? If so, any description etc would be
much appreciated.

TIA,
Puddin'

Pease pudding hot,
Pease pudding cold,
Pease pudding in the pot
Nine days old ...

Maybe beating a dead horse - Could you drill a hole thru
the flooring under the sink (just this side of the finished wall).
Drop down to the basement ceiling joist space below and
make the run from there.

Connect the new drain to the existing cast iron vent
with a couple of 45 EL's to offset into the wall and a Fernco.

Since you will have a 1 1/2" trap, the drain
can be 1 1/2" (PVC) since it does have a vent.
Jim

While you say the sink and cabinet cannot be moved, it may well be the only
way that the plumbing in the wall. It may not be that hard, to pull the
cabinet and sink, as you think. Most can be unscrewed and removed. Without
doing that you may find that the plumbing job requires more of the wall
opened up than you expect in order to do a proper repair.


"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...


The folks that built my little brick bungalow in the midwest back in
'54 didn't screw up everything. Most of it is pretty solid.

The 2 24k certified time bombs I'm aware of involve drain pipes
in kitchen and bath that were sealed inside the wall.

The bath hasn't failed quite yet. In the kitchen I've had to tear
thru tile and plaster/steel-lath just to find the juncture of a 2"
lead drain with a vertical roof-vented cast-iron stack. I'm not even
certain how to get the corroded, leaking pipe out, let alone how to
get new stuff in, as 2/3 of the length is behind the cabinet/sinktop
which can't be moved.

Does there exist 2" flexible drain pipe that meets common bldg.
codes for such an application? If so, any description etc would be
much appreciated.

TIA,
Puddin'

Pease pudding hot,
Pease pudding cold,
Pease pudding in the pot
Nine days old ...

not cetain about 2 inch but flexible schedule 40 is made.......

stumbled on to it when buying some clear schedule 40 pipe for a game

Puddin

Sounds as if this is changing into a bigger project than you were
expecting.

If you have decided to cover the hole behind the stove you have
made, you can make that hole quite large so you can see and work
in that area well. You will need a sizeable hole under the sink,
but it can be covered the same way. You could make a custom FRP
wall face as large as the sink base. This could even be done in
the back of the cabinet next to the sink if necessary.

Are the holes in the studs drilled round holes or are they notches
in the 2x? Are they 2x4's? Are the holes or notches large enough
to accommodate 1 1/2" pvc if the lead pipe was gone?. How about 1
1/2" pvc couplings? How do they have the lead pipe tied into the
stack? Is the lead pipe in good shape right where is goes into the
stack? What diameter is the vertical stack? How many studs are
there between the stack and the waste connection under the sink?
Does the house have a gable roof and is this wall on the gable
end? This has to do with it's load bearing requirements.

This project can be done, you just need to weigh the
possibilities.
___________________________
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
DanG


"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...


The folks that built my little brick bungalow in the midwest
back in
'54 didn't screw up everything. Most of it is pretty solid.

The 2 24k certified time bombs I'm aware of involve drain pipes
in kitchen and bath that were sealed inside the wall.

The bath hasn't failed quite yet. In the kitchen I've had to
tear
thru tile and plaster/steel-lath just to find the juncture of a
2"
lead drain with a vertical roof-vented cast-iron stack. I'm not
even
certain how to get the corroded, leaking pipe out, let alone how
to
get new stuff in, as 2/3 of the length is behind the
cabinet/sinktop
which can't be moved.

Does there exist 2" flexible drain pipe that meets common bldg.
codes for such an application? If so, any description etc would
be
much appreciated.

TIA,
Puddin'

Pease pudding hot,
Pease pudding cold,
Pease pudding in the pot
Nine days old ...

On Thu, 30 Nov 2006 21:21:55 GMT, Speedy Jim wrote:

Puddin' Man wrote:


The folks that built my little brick bungalow in the midwest back in
'54 didn't screw up everything. Most of it is pretty solid.

The 2 24k certified time bombs I'm aware of involve drain pipes
in kitchen and bath that were sealed inside the wall.

The bath hasn't failed quite yet. In the kitchen I've had to tear
thru tile and plaster/steel-lath just to find the juncture of a 2"
lead drain with a vertical roof-vented cast-iron stack. I'm not even
certain how to get the corroded, leaking pipe out, let alone how to
get new stuff in, as 2/3 of the length is behind the cabinet/sinktop
which can't be moved.

Does there exist 2" flexible drain pipe that meets common bldg.
codes for such an application? If so, any description etc would be
much appreciated.

TIA,
Puddin'

Maybe beating a dead horse - Could you drill a hole thru
the flooring under the sink (just this side of the finished wall).
Drop down to the basement ceiling joist space below and
make the run from there.

Very difficult as I built a spare bedroom under kitchen
20+ years ago. Framed window is right under drain pipe.

Connect the new drain to the existing cast iron vent
with a couple of 45 EL's to offset into the wall and a Fernco.

Tying into the stack is beyond my plumbing abilities.

Since you will have a 1 1/2" trap, the drain
can be 1 1/2" (PVC) since it does have a vent.

Correct.

I had to get a plumber in. He cut the lead near the
joint, used a 2"-to-1.5" coupling to get pvc drain in.
Lead stuff inside the wall looks damned scary to po'
me.

I did as much as I could ... still gotta custom build
cover, etc.

Much thanks,
P

Pease pudding hot,
Pease pudding cold,
Pease pudding in the pot
Nine days old ...

On Thu, 30 Nov 2006 15:55:06 -0600, "DanG" wrote:

Puddin

Sounds as if this is changing into a bigger project than you were
expecting.

If you have decided to cover the hole behind the stove you have
made, you can make that hole quite large so you can see and work
in that area well. You will need a sizeable hole under the sink,
but it can be covered the same way. You could make a custom FRP
wall face as large as the sink base. This could even be done in
the back of the cabinet next to the sink if necessary.

Are the holes in the studs drilled round holes or are they notches
in the 2x? Are they 2x4's? Are the holes or notches large enough
to accommodate 1 1/2" pvc if the lead pipe was gone?. How about 1
1/2" pvc couplings?

the 2x4's were cut clean thru. Damned if I know why they
even bothered to put 'em in the no support from header
to footer.

How do they have the lead pipe tied into the
stack?

Lead/oakum.

Is the lead pipe in good shape right where is goes into the
stack?

Fortunately it wasn't chewed up too much. Had it been, I
woulda been in BIG trouble. :-)

What diameter is the vertical stack? How many studs are
there between the stack and the waste connection under the sink?
Does the house have a gable roof and is this wall on the gable
end? This has to do with it's load bearing requirements.

This project can be done, you just need to weigh the
possibilities.

I had to get a plumber in. He cut the lead near the
joint, used a 2"-to-1.5" coupling to get pvc drain in.
Lead stuff inside the wall looks damned scary to po'
me.

It was the copper part (about 18" long) that rotted.

I did as much as I could ... still gotta custom build
cover, etc.

Much thanks to DanG.

Best,
Puddin'

Pease pudding hot,
Pease pudding cold,
Pease pudding in the pot
Nine days old ...

On Thu, 30 Nov 2006 17:41:58 GMT, Puddin' Man
wrote:



The folks that built my little brick bungalow in the midwest back in
'54 didn't screw up everything. Most of it is pretty solid.

The 2 24k certified time bombs I'm aware of involve drain pipes
in kitchen and bath that were sealed inside the wall.

The bath hasn't failed quite yet. In the kitchen I've had to tear
thru tile and plaster/steel-lath just to find the juncture of a 2"
lead drain with a vertical roof-vented cast-iron stack. I'm not even
certain how to get the corroded, leaking pipe out, let alone how to
get new stuff in, as 2/3 of the length is behind the cabinet/sinktop
which can't be moved.

Does there exist 2" flexible drain pipe that meets common bldg.
codes for such an application? If so, any description etc would be
much appreciated.

P&M

I don't know much about what's available,

but I would try PC-70. Epoxy is usually great, and this is probably
the greatest epoxy I've ever seen.

Long ago I was a roommate of a girl whose kitchen sink wouldn't stop
dripping, and whose drain was leaking. It didn't seem to bother her
or her roommate, I guess because they didn't own the property.

The PC-70 went on while the drain was dripping, and when it hardened,
the drain didn't leak anymore. When the stuff was not set yet, and
still was falling over, I would push it bakc up again, but that only
ltook 15 or 20 minutes after mixing. Then I left it alone. It fully
sets at 24 hours. Didn't leak for the remaining 4 months that I lived
there. Other things I've glued, or items I have made** with PC-70
have lasted 10 years or more and show no signs of failing now.

**I was missing the cap from a winesack. So I put a light coat of
vaseline on the threads, and molded a cap out of PC-70. When it
dried, I needed pliers to loosen the "cap", but after that, it screwed
on and off like any cap. The whole thing was made out of PC-70.


TIA,
Puddin'

Pease pudding hot,
Pease pudding cold,
Pease pudding in the pot
Nine days old ...

"mm" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 30 Nov 2006 17:41:58 GMT, Puddin' Man
wrote:



The folks that built my little brick bungalow in the midwest back in
'54 didn't screw up everything. Most of it is pretty solid.

The 2 24k certified time bombs I'm aware of involve drain pipes
in kitchen and bath that were sealed inside the wall.

The bath hasn't failed quite yet. In the kitchen I've had to tear
thru tile and plaster/steel-lath just to find the juncture of a 2"
lead drain with a vertical roof-vented cast-iron stack. I'm not even
certain how to get the corroded, leaking pipe out, let alone how to
get new stuff in, as 2/3 of the length is behind the cabinet/sinktop
which can't be moved.

Does there exist 2" flexible drain pipe that meets common bldg.
codes for such an application? If so, any description etc would be
much appreciated.

P&M

I don't know much about what's available,

but I would try PC-70. Epoxy is usually great, and this is probably
the greatest epoxy I've ever seen.

Long ago I was a roommate of a girl whose kitchen sink wouldn't stop
dripping, and whose drain was leaking. It didn't seem to bother her
or her roommate, I guess because they didn't own the property.

The PC-70 went on while the drain was dripping, and when it hardened,
the drain didn't leak anymore. When the stuff was not set yet, and
still was falling over, I would push it bakc up again, but that only
ltook 15 or 20 minutes after mixing. Then I left it alone. It fully
sets at 24 hours. Didn't leak for the remaining 4 months that I lived
there. Other things I've glued, or items I have made** with PC-70
have lasted 10 years or more and show no signs of failing now.

**I was missing the cap from a winesack. So I put a light coat of
vaseline on the threads, and molded a cap out of PC-70. When it
dried, I needed pliers to loosen the "cap", but after that, it screwed
on and off like any cap. The whole thing was made out of PC-70.


Who makes PC-70, or where can one find it?

Al

wrote:
not cetain about 2 inch but flexible schedule 40 is made.......

stumbled on to it when buying some clear schedule 40 pipe for a game
don't know what schedule 40 is but i have used auto rad hose
plenty. always successful and will last a long time. think about
the auto environment and compare it to the soft home conditions.
use a stainless steel hose clamp. i use 2 for additional strength.