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#1
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Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that hangs
from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made of tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it together. Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find some 12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's not very good quality. Thanks, Al |
#2
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![]() Big Al wrote: Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that hangs from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made of tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it together. Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find some 12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's not very good quality. Actually, if it's a real barn and even reasonably old, that's what I'd suggest. If you'd like, e-mail and I'll send some pictures of the restored/rebuilt doors for the barn here. They're 3-1/2" T&G w/ 6/4 framing and a crossbuck (both surface mount on the front side). The originals (and the one new one I've built) have a 45-deg chamfer on the mid-sections of these that really dresses them up. They're heavy, but a great look for a barn. You shouldn't have any real trouble finding good T&G from a real lumber yard. |
#3
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![]() Big Al wrote: Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that hangs from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made of tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it together. Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find some 12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's not very good quality. Thanks, Al If the door is more to keep the rain out than provide security I would weld up a steel frame out of square tube and cover it with a lightweight roofing metal. It makes a fairly substantial door and keeps the weight down a bit . |
#4
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... Big Al wrote: Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that hangs from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made of tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it together. Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find some 12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's not very good quality. Thanks, Al If the door is more to keep the rain out than provide security I would weld up a steel frame out of square tube and cover it with a lightweight roofing metal. It makes a fairly substantial door and keeps the weight down a bit . Thought of making a frame out of steel tubing. Just don't think I can keep it square and straight. Al |
#5
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On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 00:04:35 -0700, "Big Al" wrote:
wrote in message roups.com... Big Al wrote: Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that hangs from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made of tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it together. Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find some 12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's not very good quality. Thanks, Al If the door is more to keep the rain out than provide security I would weld up a steel frame out of square tube and cover it with a lightweight roofing metal. It makes a fairly substantial door and keeps the weight down a bit . Thought of making a frame out of steel tubing. Just don't think I can keep it square and straight. Al If a metal door would suffice, make a frame out of 2x4's and 2x6's. Lay them flat and use those hammer on plates made for trusses. Or you can buy a metal edge that goes on the 2 sides of the door at Menards and probably other places. Those are channel type metal, you just run some 2x6s horizontally and drill/screw to those metal channels. That is the easiest way. Then buy some ribbed steel siding such as Pro-Rib, and screw them to the frame using the approved neoprene washer screws. Apply rollers and handles and find a few friends to lift it on the track. Be sure to put stops on ends of tracks or you will undoubetly roll it off the end. If you post a real email addy I can send you a picture of my door made just that way. One sheet of steel covers 3 feet, so you will need 4 of them, and must get 10 footers. Figure $2 a lineal foot, or $80 for the four 10ft sheets. Plus boards, screws, nails, and those metal strips for the edges. I'd put a J-channel on the top too. I just built my door and it was pretty easy. Check out this site for the steel sheets (many colors). This brand is sold at Menards. http://www.midwestmanufacturing.com/SteelSiding.do Click on products / applications / color charts No, I dont work for them, I just been using a lot of their products this year while building a new barn, and I have been pleased with their products. If you email them, they are quick to reply and helpful too. I'm a retired farmer these days. I started to farm after I retired. Mark |
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