Barn door
 

Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that hangs
from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made of
tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it
together.

Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find some
12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's not
very good quality.

Thanks,
Al

Barn door
 

Big Al wrote:
Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that hangs
from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made of
tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it
together.

Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find some
12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's not
very good quality.

Actually, if it's a real barn and even reasonably old, that's what I'd
suggest. If you'd like, e-mail and I'll send some pictures of the
restored/rebuilt doors for the barn here. They're 3-1/2" T&G w/ 6/4
framing and a crossbuck (both surface mount on the front side). The
originals (and the one new one I've built) have a 45-deg chamfer on the
mid-sections of these that really dresses them up. They're heavy, but
a great look for a barn.

You shouldn't have any real trouble finding good T&G from a real lumber
yard.

Barn door
 

Big Al wrote:
Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that hangs
from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made of
tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it
together.

Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find some
12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's not
very good quality.

Thanks,
Al

If the door is more to keep the rain out than provide security I would
weld up a steel frame out of square tube and cover it with a
lightweight roofing metal.

It makes a fairly substantial door and keeps the weight down a bit .

Barn door
 

wrote in message
oups.com...

Big Al wrote:
Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that
hangs
from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made
of
tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it
together.

Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find
some
12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's
not
very good quality.

Thanks,
Al

If the door is more to keep the rain out than provide security I would
weld up a steel frame out of square tube and cover it with a
lightweight roofing metal.

It makes a fairly substantial door and keeps the weight down a bit .


Thought of making a frame out of steel tubing. Just don't think I can keep
it square and straight.

Al

Barn door
 

On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 00:04:35 -0700, "Big Al" wrote:


wrote in message
roups.com...

Big Al wrote:
Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that
hangs
from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made
of
tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it
together.

Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find
some
12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's
not
very good quality.

Thanks,
Al

If the door is more to keep the rain out than provide security I would
weld up a steel frame out of square tube and cover it with a
lightweight roofing metal.

It makes a fairly substantial door and keeps the weight down a bit .


Thought of making a frame out of steel tubing. Just don't think I can keep
it square and straight.

Al


If a metal door would suffice, make a frame out of 2x4's and 2x6's.
Lay them flat and use those hammer on plates made for trusses. Or you
can buy a metal edge that goes on the 2 sides of the door at Menards
and probably other places. Those are channel type metal, you just run
some 2x6s horizontally and drill/screw to those metal channels. That
is the easiest way. Then buy some ribbed steel siding such as
Pro-Rib, and screw them to the frame using the approved neoprene
washer screws. Apply rollers and handles and find a few friends to
lift it on the track. Be sure to put stops on ends of tracks or you
will undoubetly roll it off the end.

If you post a real email addy I can send you a picture of my door made
just that way.

One sheet of steel covers 3 feet, so you will need 4 of them, and must
get 10 footers. Figure $2 a lineal foot, or $80 for the four 10ft
sheets. Plus boards, screws, nails, and those metal strips for the
edges. I'd put a J-channel on the top too.

I just built my door and it was pretty easy.

Check out this site for the steel sheets (many colors). This brand is
sold at Menards.
http://www.midwestmanufacturing.com/SteelSiding.do

Click on products / applications / color charts

No, I dont work for them, I just been using a lot of their products
this year while building a new barn, and I have been pleased with
their products. If you email them, they are quick to reply and helpful
too.

I'm a retired farmer these days. I started to farm after I retired.

Mark