I need to replace an AH 10A 250 V glass type fuse and the closest I
have is an AGC 10A 32V fuse. They are the same physically, but are they
the same electrically? The actual fuse element inside the 32V fuse
looks thicker than the 250V fuse.

Mikepier wrote:

I need to replace an AH 10A 250 V glass type fuse and the closest I
have is an AGC 10A 32V fuse. They are the same physically, but are they
the same electrically? The actual fuse element inside the 32V fuse
looks thicker than the 250V fuse.


You can substitute a higher voltage rating for a lower one, but not the
"other way" around. The 250 volt rating means the fuse will safely open
a 250 volt circuit without "exploding" or developing an interal arc
which could maintain current flow longer than would be safe.

Keep looking...

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

"Mikepier" wrote in message
ups.com...
I need to replace an AH 10A 250 V glass type fuse and the closest I
have is an AGC 10A 32V fuse. They are the same physically, but are they
the same electrically? The actual fuse element inside the 32V fuse
looks thicker than the 250V fuse.


If the voltage the fuse is controlling is 32V or less, it will be fine. If
it
is a 115V appliance - not so.

Bob

Mikepier wrote:
I need to replace an AH 10A 250 V glass type fuse and the closest I
have is an AGC 10A 32V fuse. They are the same physically, but are they
the same electrically? The actual fuse element inside the 32V fuse
looks thicker than the 250V fuse.

Others have already answered the question of using a lower
voltage-rated fuse in a higher voltage application as a definite no.

As far as the apparent visible size of the element from one fuse to
another, that's a design consideration related to the material
composition, fuse response time, etc. Since dissipated power is I^2 *
R, the current to melt the fusible link is dependent on R which is
obviously intimately related to the material, etc.

Thanks for all of your inputs. I look for the right fuse.

Is this for a microwave, proper replacement fuses are available at many
stores.

wrote in message
...
On 1 Nov 2006 09:57:51 -0800, "Mikepier"
wrote:

I need to replace an AH 10A 250 V glass type fuse and the closest I
have is an AGC 10A 32V fuse. They are the same physically, but are they
the same electrically? The actual fuse element inside the 32V fuse
looks thicker than the 250V fuse.


The 32 volt fuse may not interupt the fault without blowing up.

wrote in message
...
On 1 Nov 2006 09:57:51 -0800, "Mikepier"
wrote:

I need to replace an AH 10A 250 V glass type fuse and the closest I
have is an AGC 10A 32V fuse. They are the same physically, but are they
the same electrically? The actual fuse element inside the 32V fuse
looks thicker than the 250V fuse.


The 32 volt fuse may not interupt the fault without blowing up.

More importantly (and dangerously) the 32 volt fuse might arc after it
blows, and keep the current going for a short period of time longer then it
should.

wrote:
On 1 Nov 2006 09:57:51 -0800, "Mikepier"
wrote:


I need to replace an AH 10A 250 V glass type fuse and the closest I
have is an AGC 10A 32V fuse. They are the same physically, but are they
the same electrically? The actual fuse element inside the 32V fuse
looks thicker than the 250V fuse.



The 32 volt fuse may not interupt the fault without blowing up.
Hi,
32V one is most likely for DC circuit use.

"Ook" Ook Don't send me any freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the
Don't send me any freakin' spam wrote in
:


wrote in message
...
On 1 Nov 2006 09:57:51 -0800, "Mikepier"
wrote:

I need to replace an AH 10A 250 V glass type fuse and the closest I
have is an AGC 10A 32V fuse. They are the same physically, but are
they the same electrically? The actual fuse element inside the 32V
fuse looks thicker than the 250V fuse.


The 32 volt fuse may not interupt the fault without blowing up.

More importantly (and dangerously) the 32 volt fuse might arc after it
blows, and keep the current going for a short period of time longer
then it should.

(Or a long period of time after it "opens".)




BINGO!,you get the prize for correct answer.

BTW,high amp fuses are now often ceramic instead of glass;no way to see
inside to find an open fuse.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Thu, 15 Mar 2007 05:56:34 GMT, Tony Hwang wrote:

wrote:
On 1 Nov 2006 09:57:51 -0800, "Mikepier"
wrote:


I need to replace an AH 10A 250 V glass type fuse and the closest I
have is an AGC 10A 32V fuse. They are the same physically, but are they
the same electrically? The actual fuse element inside the 32V fuse
looks thicker than the 250V fuse.



The 32 volt fuse may not interupt the fault without blowing up.
Hi,
32V one is most likely for DC circuit use.

A simple fuse doesn't care if it's AC or DC, and there are low-voltage
AC circuits that need fuses. What does matter is the voltage rating.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"How could you ask me to believe in God when there's
absolutely no evidence that I can see?" -- Jodie Foster

Mark Lloyd wrote:
On Thu, 15 Mar 2007 05:56:34 GMT, Tony Hwang wrote:


wrote:

On 1 Nov 2006 09:57:51 -0800, "Mikepier"
wrote:



I need to replace an AH 10A 250 V glass type fuse and the closest I
have is an AGC 10A 32V fuse. They are the same physically, but are they
the same electrically? The actual fuse element inside the 32V fuse
looks thicker than the 250V fuse.



The 32 volt fuse may not interupt the fault without blowing up.

Hi,
32V one is most likely for DC circuit use.


A simple fuse doesn't care if it's AC or DC, and there are low-voltage
AC circuits that need fuses. What does matter is the voltage rating.

Zero crossings may be used by AC fuses to help extinguish the arc. Some
fuses are AC only, some have lower voltage ratings on DC.

Swithes have AC-DC limits also. Quiet switches we commonly use break the
circuit slowly and use the AC zero crossings to help extinguish the arc.
Quiet switches are probably all AC-only. DC requires a fast snap action.

--
bud--

replying to Bud--, Chris Harmon wrote:
Most others will say I am crazy to say otherwise but you could probably use a
32v with some changes to the amperage. The reason the 32v fuse looks thicker
is because efficiency goes down with DC 32v vs AC 120/240v. I dont have the
means to properly test this but I would imagine if you needed a 10A 125v fuse
you could probably use a 32v 3A as an equivalent. My reasoning is the CNC
milling machine I have that blew a 250v 10A fuse is actually rated for 115VAC
input and outputs 90VDC with a motor thats rated for 8 amps yet it blew my
10A fuse quite easily(barely any load or heat from variable controller) so in
reality it was likely closer to a 3.5-5 amp fuse at the voltages of 115 and
90. My guess is that a 32v 3 amp would probably be close to a 11-12 amp 250v
fuse which is close enough IMO.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...se-161969-.htm

In article ,
says...

replying to Bud--, Chris Harmon wrote:
Most others will say I am crazy to say otherwise but you could probably use a
32v with some changes to the amperage. The reason the 32v fuse looks thicker
is because efficiency goes down with DC 32v vs AC 120/240v. I don¤?t have the
means to properly test this but I would imagine if you needed a 10A 125v fuse
you could probably use a 32v 3A as an equivalent. My reasoning is the CNC
milling machine I have that blew a 250v 10A fuse is actually rated for 115VAC
input and outputs 90VDC with a motor that¤?s rated for 8 amps yet it blew my
10A fuse quite easily(barely any load or heat from variable controller) so in
reality it was likely closer to a 3.5-5 amp fuse at the voltages of 115 and
90. My guess is that a 32v 3 amp would probably be close to a 11-12 amp 250v
fuse which is close enough IMO.



Your IMO is totally wrong.

A fuse is made to blow at a certain current. The voltage rating will
have no effect.

Where the voltage comes in is the ability of the fuse to interrupt the
flow of electricity. If the voltage rating is too low, it may be
possiable for the fuse to arc over and still pass current.

If you stick a 3 amp 32 volt fuse in a 240 volt circuit that needs 5
amps or over, it will blow almost like an old time flash bulb.

It may even arc over and not even stop the current flow.

Many of the old car fuses that are rated for 32 volts were different
sizes depending on the current rating to keep people from putting the
wrong fuse in the holder.

On Saturday, July 14, 2018 at 6:14:24 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

replying to Bud--, Chris Harmon wrote:
Most others will say I am crazy to say otherwise but you could probably use a
32v with some changes to the amperage. The reason the 32v fuse looks thicker
is because efficiency goes down with DC 32v vs AC 120/240v. I don€?t have the
means to properly test this but I would imagine if you needed a 10A 125v fuse
you could probably use a 32v 3A as an equivalent. My reasoning is the CNC
milling machine I have that blew a 250v 10A fuse is actually rated for 115VAC
input and outputs 90VDC with a motor that€?s rated for 8 amps yet it blew my
10A fuse quite easily(barely any load or heat from variable controller) so in
reality it was likely closer to a 3.5-5 amp fuse at the voltages of 115 and
90. My guess is that a 32v 3 amp would probably be close to a 11-12 amp 250v
fuse which is close enough IMO.



Your IMO is totally wrong.

A fuse is made to blow at a certain current. The voltage rating will
have no effect.

Where the voltage comes in is the ability of the fuse to interrupt the
flow of electricity. If the voltage rating is too low, it may be
possiable for the fuse to arc over and still pass current.

If you stick a 3 amp 32 volt fuse in a 240 volt circuit that needs 5
amps or over, it will blow almost like an old time flash bulb.

It may even arc over and not even stop the current flow.

Many of the old car fuses that are rated for 32 volts were different
sizes depending on the current rating to keep people from putting the
wrong fuse in the holder.

Another way of looking at that is that a fuse is essentially a low ohm
resistor that gets hot based on how much current is flowing through it.
The power generating the heat is I2R, which is not voltage dependent.
When it gets to the rated current it gets hot enough to melt and open
the circuit. Like you say the voltage rating is related to other factors.
I'd add another factor is what kind of holder it's designed to go in,
the insulation rating, contact ratings, listing, etc. for it too, not
just the fuse. They are designed together.

On Sat, 14 Jul 2018 18:14:12 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
m says...

replying to Bud--, Chris Harmon wrote:
Most others will say I am crazy to say otherwise but you could probably use a
32v with some changes to the amperage. The reason the 32v fuse looks thicker
is because efficiency goes down with DC 32v vs AC 120/240v. I don�t have the
means to properly test this but I would imagine if you needed a 10A 125v fuse
you could probably use a 32v 3A as an equivalent. My reasoning is the CNC
milling machine I have that blew a 250v 10A fuse is actually rated for 115VAC
input and outputs 90VDC with a motor that�s rated for 8 amps yet it blew my
10A fuse quite easily(barely any load or heat from variable controller) so in
reality it was likely closer to a 3.5-5 amp fuse at the voltages of 115 and
90. My guess is that a 32v 3 amp would probably be close to a 11-12 amp 250v
fuse which is close enough IMO.



Your IMO is totally wrong.

A fuse is made to blow at a certain current. The voltage rating will
have no effect.

Where the voltage comes in is the ability of the fuse to interrupt the
flow of electricity. If the voltage rating is too low, it may be
possiable for the fuse to arc over and still pass current.

If you stick a 3 amp 32 volt fuse in a 240 volt circuit that needs 5
amps or over, it will blow almost like an old time flash bulb.

It may even arc over and not even stop the current flow.

Many of the old car fuses that are rated for 32 volts were different
sizes depending on the current rating to keep people from putting the
wrong fuse in the holder.


What he said. Sounds like what I know.