On Sat, 14 Jul 2018 18:14:12 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
m says...

replying to Bud--, Chris Harmon wrote:
Most others will say I am crazy to say otherwise but you could probably use a
32v with some changes to the amperage. The reason the 32v fuse looks thicker
is because efficiency goes down with DC 32v vs AC 120/240v. I don�t have the
means to properly test this but I would imagine if you needed a 10A 125v fuse
you could probably use a 32v 3A as an equivalent. My reasoning is the CNC
milling machine I have that blew a 250v 10A fuse is actually rated for 115VAC
input and outputs 90VDC with a motor that�s rated for 8 amps yet it blew my
10A fuse quite easily(barely any load or heat from variable controller) so in
reality it was likely closer to a 3.5-5 amp fuse at the voltages of 115 and
90. My guess is that a 32v 3 amp would probably be close to a 11-12 amp 250v
fuse which is close enough IMO.



Your IMO is totally wrong.

A fuse is made to blow at a certain current. The voltage rating will
have no effect.

Where the voltage comes in is the ability of the fuse to interrupt the
flow of electricity. If the voltage rating is too low, it may be
possiable for the fuse to arc over and still pass current.

If you stick a 3 amp 32 volt fuse in a 240 volt circuit that needs 5
amps or over, it will blow almost like an old time flash bulb.

It may even arc over and not even stop the current flow.

Many of the old car fuses that are rated for 32 volts were different
sizes depending on the current rating to keep people from putting the
wrong fuse in the holder.


What he said. Sounds like what I know.