I am installing Intermatic's "Little Gray Box" at a junction where I
previously had an off/on switch. The three wires from the fuse box
connected up at the switch with the three wires to the heater. The bare wire
in the center is a "neutral." I am assuming it can go to ground also. In
the timer there is a pole marked A for the neutral wire but there is also a
green screw that is supposed to be a ground connection.
The question is, (now that I have the line and load wires connected) can I
connect both of these neutral or ground wires to post A and also run a wire
from there to the ground? I won't turn on the power till I know it is wired
correctly. The schematic for this is rudimentary and I can't get any info
from the company. Suggestions appreciated and thanked in advance.
Derek

"Derek Lawler" wrote in message
...
I am installing Intermatic's "Little Gray Box" at a junction where I
previously had an off/on switch. The three wires from the fuse box
connected up at the switch with the three wires to the heater. The bare
wire
in the center is a "neutral." I am assuming it can go to ground also. In
the timer there is a pole marked A for the neutral wire but there is also
a
green screw that is supposed to be a ground connection.
The question is, (now that I have the line and load wires connected) can I
connect both of these neutral or ground wires to post A and also run a
wire
from there to the ground? I won't turn on the power till I know it is
wired
correctly. The schematic for this is rudimentary and I can't get any info
from the company. Suggestions appreciated and thanked in advance.
Derek

The ground wire is bare and never carries current, under normal conditions.
The white wire is the neutral, and does carry current. The white wire and
the bare wire are tied together in the load center, BUT THEY SERVE DIFFERENT
PURPOSES. The green screw is always for the ground connection and NEVER for
the neutral.

Assuming you have a full sized 240 volt water heater, you connect the bare
to the ground terminal only, and the same thing on the water heater. Your
white and black wires are both hot, you don't have a neutral. The white and
black wires go to the "line" terminals of the time clock, also assuming you
bought a clock with a 240 volt motor. In the event you bought a clock with a
120 volt motor, you need a feeder with a neutral (4 conductors). The "load"
terminals is where you connect the two insulated wires going to the water
heater



"Derek Lawler" wrote in message
...
I am installing Intermatic's "Little Gray Box" at a junction where I
previously had an off/on switch. The three wires from the fuse box
connected up at the switch with the three wires to the heater. The bare
wire
in the center is a "neutral." I am assuming it can go to ground also. In
the timer there is a pole marked A for the neutral wire but there is also
a
green screw that is supposed to be a ground connection.
The question is, (now that I have the line and load wires connected) can I
connect both of these neutral or ground wires to post A and also run a
wire
from there to the ground? I won't turn on the power till I know it is
wired
correctly. The schematic for this is rudimentary and I can't get any info
from the company. Suggestions appreciated and thanked in advance.
Derek

Thanks to both of you for the clarification. All I need do now is connect
the two bare wires to ground and skip the post at A. I don't know if the
motor is 120 or 240 but I am going to take a chance and assume it is 240 as
I don't want to disassemble the whole panel. The original wiring (circa
1956) is 12 gauge, so I went with that to extend the original wiring that
was too short to reach the terminals. Once I screw in the two fuses I will
know ---the moment of truth, so to speak. Took a cold shower this pm but
after all, the ambient temp has been in the 90's here in Florida. Last week
I patted myself on the back for R&R my Volvo's water pump. I like that
feeling of doing things myself, as don't we all.
Derek