The single lever Delta kitchen faucet [model 21460 - made in Denmark] has an
occassional dribble from the top. Minor, but I wanted to remove the handle
to tighten or replace the fittings.
The set screw will not move with an allen wrench and all the force I can
exert with pliers as leverage. Even a rachet with an allen fitting fails.
Short of drilling the screw out and buying a new handle, any ideas?
Thank you.

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John Keiser wrote:
The single lever Delta kitchen faucet [model 21460 - made in Denmark] has an
occassional dribble from the top. Minor, but I wanted to remove the handle
to tighten or replace the fittings.
The set screw will not move with an allen wrench and all the force I can
exert with pliers as leverage. Even a rachet with an allen fitting fails.
Short of drilling the screw out and buying a new handle, any ideas?
Thank you.


Heat with torch. Wear safety glasses!!

On Wed, 30 Aug 2006 16:58:25 -1000, "John Keiser"
wrote:

The single lever Delta kitchen faucet [model 21460 - made in Denmark] has an
occassional dribble from the top. Minor, but I wanted to remove the handle
to tighten or replace the fittings.
The set screw will not move with an allen wrench and all the force I can
exert with pliers as leverage. Even a rachet with an allen fitting fails.
Short of drilling the screw out and buying a new handle, any ideas?
Thank you.

You don't have to remove the handle to work on the faucet, if you can
reomve the big ring nut right under the handle. Which is the next
step after removing the handle anyhow.

A rubber self-tightening strap wrench would be good for removing the
big round nut. Wouldn't scratch, and they've been selling those
things even at dollar stores in the last 3 or 4 years. Otherwise
water pump pliers and something inside the jaws to protect the chrome.

And yes, sometimes the "seat" will stick on something and cause the
handle to not move. The problem then is either the seat (replace both
seats and springs) or the ball. If the ball needs replacing, then and
only then you have to remove the handle, but at least you won't be
bending over the sink. Try liquid wrench I suppose. They suggest
tapping or hitting the item so that it vibrates and the liquid wrench
works its way inside. Heating is good if it doesn't hurt the chrome
- about that I don't know.

This model conceals the big ring nut under a chrome cover which needs to be
removed after the handle.

I might try the torch when I am prepared to sacrifice the handle as I also
wonder about the chrome finish surviving the heat.

Thanks for the comments.

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"John Keiser" wrote in message
newstadnQ94hPZQzWvZnZ2dnUVZ_oSdnZ2d@hawaiiantel. net...
The single lever Delta kitchen faucet [model 21460 - made in Denmark] has
an
occassional dribble from the top. Minor, but I wanted to remove the
handle
to tighten or replace the fittings.
The set screw will not move with an allen wrench and all the force I can
exert with pliers as leverage. Even a rachet with an allen fitting fails.
Short of drilling the screw out and buying a new handle, any ideas?
Thank you.

--
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Before you do anything destructive give Delta a call. They are very helpful
and in many cases not only will they give instructions but will supply the
replacement parts at no cost.
MLD

John,

I just had this problem with a delta faucet. Drill out the set screw.

Dave M.

On Wed, 30 Aug 2006 16:58:25 -1000, "John Keiser"
wrote:

The single lever Delta kitchen faucet [model 21460 - made in Denmark] has an
occassional dribble from the top. Minor, but I wanted to remove the handle
to tighten or replace the fittings.
The set screw will not move with an allen wrench and all the force I can
exert with pliers as leverage. Even a rachet with an allen fitting fails.
Short of drilling the screw out and buying a new handle, any ideas?

Byetw, when you can't loosen a screw, try tightening it. Sometimes
that frees it up.

This would also be a good time to have a left-handed drill bit, for
driling the thing out, going counter clockwise. A good chance it
would start to unscrew at a certain point, with enough thread in the
hole to just use a new set scgrwe.

Harbor Freight now has a set of 4 LH drill bits, at a Chinese price.

And Vermont American has 2 or 3 sizes. The small one(s) is/are cheap.

Thank you.

No Harbor Freight near me [in Hawaii] and shipping is usually an insult.
The LH drills are on my list of fun stuff to buy next time I'm in Manila.


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John Keiser wrote:

No Harbor Freight near me [in Hawaii] and shipping is usually an insult.
The LH drills are on my list of fun stuff to buy next time I'm in Manila.



You can sharpen a RH drill bit so that it will cut when turning CCW.

You'll have to pull it out of the hole frequently to clear the chips,
but it's worth a try for your one time application, providing that allen
head screw isn't too hard.

And when done, you can jusr resharpen it back to being a RH drill G.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength."

replying to mm, SRJ wrote:
NOPSAMmm2005 wrote:

On Wed, 30 Aug 2006 16:58:25 -1000, "John Keiser"
You don't have to remove the handle to work on the faucet, if you can
reomve the big ring nut right under the handle. Which is the next
step after removing the handle anyhow.
A rubber self-tightening strap wrench would be good for removing the
big round nut. Wouldn't scratch, and they've been selling those
things even at dollar stores in the last 3 or 4 years. Otherwise
water pump pliers and something inside the jaws to protect the chrome.
And yes, sometimes the "seat" will stick on something and cause the
handle to not move. The problem then is either the seat (replace both
seats and springs) or the ball. If the ball needs replacing, then and
only then you have to remove the handle, but at least you won't be
bending over the sink. Try liquid wrench I suppose. They suggest
tapping or hitting the item so that it vibrates and the liquid wrench
works its way inside. Heating is good if it doesn't hurt the chrome
- about that I don't know.


Read your post just in time...I was trying to replace the springs and
seats by removing the set screw which was stuck. Instead I just loosened
the ring under the handle which, thankfully, I was able to turn by hand.
After that, no problems!

--

On Thursday, August 31, 2006 11:50:38 PM UTC-4, John Keiser wrote:
No Harbor Freight near me [in Hawaii] and shipping is usually an insult.
The LH drills are on my list of fun stuff to buy next time I'm in Manila.


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I worked at a brand new harbor freight, the set up crew believes they will be getting a new store in hawaii soon

I quit because my bad knee was too painful. Nice co workers, nice management, nice customers....

replying to mm, DB wrote:
Thanks for the post! Out set screw was stuck, was about to use a torch but
was not sure if that was going to ruin the handle, was also thinking about
drilling out the screw but then would have to find a compatible handle.

Read this post - then used a dish towel and wrench and easily losened the big
round nut, then the handle and ball came right off! After replacing the
gaskets and springs we tighened the nut down by hand and then used the dish
towel and wrench to tighten it down slowly until it was all the way down
(flush). No more drip drip drip! Thanks!


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On 1/4/2017 12:14 PM, DB wrote:
replying to mm, DB wrote: Thanks for the post! Out set screw was
stuck, was about to use a torch but was not sure if that was going to
ruin the handle, was also thinking about drilling out the screw but
then would have to find a compatible handle. Read this post - then
used a dish towel and wrench and easily losened the big round nut,
then the handle and ball came right off! After replacing the gaskets
and springs we tighened the nut down by hand and then used the dish
towel and wrench to tighten it down slowly until it was all the way
down (flush). No more drip drip drip! Thanks!



Just yesterday I had almost the same problem, a frozen screw that holds
the handle onto the cartridge on a two handled Delta kitchen faucet.
The screw had a one piece Phillips head and washer. I don't know if the
problem was between the under surface of the washer and the inset in the
handle or between the threads of the screw and the threaded hole in the
top of the cartridge but the screw would not move. After an unsuccessful
soak with WD40, and brute strength with long nose pliers across the
edges of the washer, I put a 1/4" drill bit on my electric drill and
ground away the screw head to where the crossed slots were just barely
visible. I changed to a 3/8" drill bit and carefully started drilling
deeper to grind away some of the thickness of the central 2/3 of the
washer. Using a normal width (3/16") screwdriver, I carefully tried to
pry up the periphery of the washer all around the circumference of the
washer. I again put the long nose pliers across the washer and voila,
it turned easily. Don't know if the vibration of the drilling did it,
the WD40 finally penetrated and loosened whatever was stuck, or if I
really got better purchase on the edge of the washer with the pliers.
In any case, problem solved. I easily found a replacement set screw in
my jar of spare machine screws. Replacing the spring and rubber valve
seat ($2.49 at HD) and cleaning a small deposit of crud off the polished
metal bottom of the cartridge cured the drip.

On Thursday, January 5, 2017 at 9:47:29 AM UTC-5, Retirednoguilt wrote:
On 1/4/2017 12:14 PM, DB wrote:
replying to mm, DB wrote: Thanks for the post! Out set screw was
stuck, was about to use a torch but was not sure if that was going to
ruin the handle, was also thinking about drilling out the screw but
then would have to find a compatible handle. Read this post - then
used a dish towel and wrench and easily losened the big round nut,
then the handle and ball came right off! After replacing the gaskets
and springs we tighened the nut down by hand and then used the dish
towel and wrench to tighten it down slowly until it was all the way
down (flush). No more drip drip drip! Thanks!



Just yesterday I had almost the same problem, a frozen screw that holds
the handle onto the cartridge on a two handled Delta kitchen faucet.
The screw had a one piece Phillips head and washer. I don't know if the
problem was between the under surface of the washer and the inset in the
handle or between the threads of the screw and the threaded hole in the
top of the cartridge but the screw would not move. After an unsuccessful
soak with WD40, and brute strength with long nose pliers across the
edges of the washer, I put a 1/4" drill bit on my electric drill and
ground away the screw head to where the crossed slots were just barely
visible. I changed to a 3/8" drill bit and carefully started drilling
deeper to grind away some of the thickness of the central 2/3 of the
washer. Using a normal width (3/16") screwdriver, I carefully tried to
pry up the periphery of the washer all around the circumference of the
washer. I again put the long nose pliers across the washer and voila,
it turned easily. Don't know if the vibration of the drilling did it,
the WD40 finally penetrated and loosened whatever was stuck, or if I
really got better purchase on the edge of the washer with the pliers.
In any case, problem solved. I easily found a replacement set screw in
my jar of spare machine screws. Replacing the spring and rubber valve
seat ($2.49 at HD) and cleaning a small deposit of crud off the polished
metal bottom of the cartridge cured the drip.

It always amazes me how often people immediately jump to WD-40.

Why would you think that a stuck screw in a faucet would be freed up
with WD-40?

If it was rusted in place, I'd try a penetrating catalyst such as
PB-Blaster. If it was stuck due to mineral deposits, I'd use vinegar.

It does not surprise me at all that the WD-40 "soak" was unsuccessful.
I'll put my money on the "vibration" from all your other efforts eventually
breaking the bond. The WD-40 may have "lubed" things up once the bond was
broken, but I doubt it was main reason that you got the screw out.

On Thursday, January 5, 2017 at 9:24:28 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, January 5, 2017 at 9:47:29 AM UTC-5, Retirednoguilt wrote:
On 1/4/2017 12:14 PM, DB wrote:
replying to mm, DB wrote: Thanks for the post! Out set screw was
stuck, was about to use a torch but was not sure if that was going to
ruin the handle, was also thinking about drilling out the screw but
then would have to find a compatible handle. Read this post - then
used a dish towel and wrench and easily losened the big round nut,
then the handle and ball came right off! After replacing the gaskets
and springs we tighened the nut down by hand and then used the dish
towel and wrench to tighten it down slowly until it was all the way
down (flush). No more drip drip drip! Thanks!



Just yesterday I had almost the same problem, a frozen screw that holds
the handle onto the cartridge on a two handled Delta kitchen faucet.
The screw had a one piece Phillips head and washer. I don't know if the
problem was between the under surface of the washer and the inset in the
handle or between the threads of the screw and the threaded hole in the
top of the cartridge but the screw would not move. After an unsuccessful
soak with WD40, and brute strength with long nose pliers across the
edges of the washer, I put a 1/4" drill bit on my electric drill and
ground away the screw head to where the crossed slots were just barely
visible. I changed to a 3/8" drill bit and carefully started drilling
deeper to grind away some of the thickness of the central 2/3 of the
washer. Using a normal width (3/16") screwdriver, I carefully tried to
pry up the periphery of the washer all around the circumference of the
washer. I again put the long nose pliers across the washer and voila,
it turned easily. Don't know if the vibration of the drilling did it,
the WD40 finally penetrated and loosened whatever was stuck, or if I
really got better purchase on the edge of the washer with the pliers.
In any case, problem solved. I easily found a replacement set screw in
my jar of spare machine screws. Replacing the spring and rubber valve
seat ($2.49 at HD) and cleaning a small deposit of crud off the polished
metal bottom of the cartridge cured the drip.

It always amazes me how often people immediately jump to WD-40.

Why would you think that a stuck screw in a faucet would be freed up
with WD-40?

If it was rusted in place, I'd try a penetrating catalyst such as
PB-Blaster. If it was stuck due to mineral deposits, I'd use vinegar.

It does not surprise me at all that the WD-40 "soak" was unsuccessful.
I'll put my money on the "vibration" from all your other efforts eventually
breaking the bond. The WD-40 may have "lubed" things up once the bond was
broken, but I doubt it was main reason that you got the screw out.

I was introduced to Liquid Wrench when I was a kid. I discovered that not only would it loosen stuck parts and fasteners, it would also run a lawnmower engine. That was the old formula and I'm sure it's been changed to mollify the feds but it worked the last time I tried it. I would warm a part first with either a torch or heat gun(hairdryer) then apply the Liquid Wrench. It would penetrate a stuck part or screw much better that way. ヽ(€¢€¿€¢)ノ

http://liquidwrench.com/

[8~{} Uncle Wrenching Monster

On Friday, January 6, 2017 at 3:39:56 AM UTC-5, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Thursday, January 5, 2017 at 9:24:28 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, January 5, 2017 at 9:47:29 AM UTC-5, Retirednoguilt wrote:
On 1/4/2017 12:14 PM, DB wrote:
replying to mm, DB wrote: Thanks for the post! Out set screw was
stuck, was about to use a torch but was not sure if that was going to
ruin the handle, was also thinking about drilling out the screw but
then would have to find a compatible handle. Read this post - then
used a dish towel and wrench and easily losened the big round nut,
then the handle and ball came right off! After replacing the gaskets
and springs we tighened the nut down by hand and then used the dish
towel and wrench to tighten it down slowly until it was all the way
down (flush). No more drip drip drip! Thanks!



Just yesterday I had almost the same problem, a frozen screw that holds
the handle onto the cartridge on a two handled Delta kitchen faucet.
The screw had a one piece Phillips head and washer. I don't know if the
problem was between the under surface of the washer and the inset in the
handle or between the threads of the screw and the threaded hole in the
top of the cartridge but the screw would not move. After an unsuccessful
soak with WD40, and brute strength with long nose pliers across the
edges of the washer, I put a 1/4" drill bit on my electric drill and
ground away the screw head to where the crossed slots were just barely
visible. I changed to a 3/8" drill bit and carefully started drilling
deeper to grind away some of the thickness of the central 2/3 of the
washer. Using a normal width (3/16") screwdriver, I carefully tried to
pry up the periphery of the washer all around the circumference of the
washer. I again put the long nose pliers across the washer and voila,
it turned easily. Don't know if the vibration of the drilling did it,
the WD40 finally penetrated and loosened whatever was stuck, or if I
really got better purchase on the edge of the washer with the pliers.
In any case, problem solved. I easily found a replacement set screw in
my jar of spare machine screws. Replacing the spring and rubber valve
seat ($2.49 at HD) and cleaning a small deposit of crud off the polished
metal bottom of the cartridge cured the drip.

It always amazes me how often people immediately jump to WD-40.

Why would you think that a stuck screw in a faucet would be freed up
with WD-40?

If it was rusted in place, I'd try a penetrating catalyst such as
PB-Blaster. If it was stuck due to mineral deposits, I'd use vinegar.

It does not surprise me at all that the WD-40 "soak" was unsuccessful.
I'll put my money on the "vibration" from all your other efforts eventually
breaking the bond. The WD-40 may have "lubed" things up once the bond was
broken, but I doubt it was main reason that you got the screw out.

I was introduced to Liquid Wrench when I was a kid. I discovered that not only would it loosen stuck parts and fasteners, it would also run a lawnmower engine. That was the old formula and I'm sure it's been changed to mollify the feds but it worked the last time I tried it. I would warm a part first with either a torch or heat gun(hairdryer) then apply the Liquid Wrench.. It would penetrate a stuck part or screw much better that way. ヽ(€¢€¿€¢)ノ

http://liquidwrench.com/

[8~{} Uncle Wrenching Monster

Liquid Wrench is a penetrating catalyst similar to PB-Blaster. The PB-Blaster name is
more fun.

Cousin Silly Monster

replying to DB, JB wrote:
Put LCR right out of the bottle on the screw. It took about 45 minutes of this
to break the bond.

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replying to John Keiser, Hackin' through wrote:
I just had two faucets with the same problem - hot water side on both, a lot
of calcium carbonate deposit. Soaking in vinegar seemed to have no effect.
Then I 1) sprayed on some liquid wrench, 2) waited an hour, 2) put in a _high
quality_ hex wrench (a bit-type that fits a 1/4 inch drive), 3) tapped it a
few times with a hammer to try to vibrate-out some of the stuck-ness, 4) put
some pressure in both directions a few times (clockwise/tighten and
counterclockwise/loosen), then 5) went for it, to loosen.
Sink #1: The set screw came out, nothing damaged.
Sink #2: The high quality hex bit broke in the set screw. The broken piece
stuck out enough that it was easy to extract. Back to the hardware store to
take advantage of the bit's lifetime guarantee!

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replying to Hackin' through, Hackin' through wrote:
... Sink #2, the saga continues: Per another web page, I tried unscrewing it
using at TORX screwdriver that fit the hex hole snugly. Now I have a broken
TORK tip wedged in the set screw hole. BUT - looking at the handle I had been
able to remove, I saw that the set screw just pressed against the faucet
cartridge stem (not going into any notable indentation. I was able to pull the
chrome cover straight up by wiggling it back and forth, and wedging q-tip
stems under it as space was created. So now it is off, although the set screw
still has the TORX tip jammed inside. I wish I had thought to force it up
before jamming up the set screw; with the handle off (the cartridge stem no
longer in the way), I could have just screwed the set screw in until it went
all the way through..

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On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 16:14:02 GMT, Hackin\\\' through
m wrote:

replying to Hackin' through, Hackin' through wrote:
.. Sink #2, the saga continues: Per another web page, I tried unscrewing it
using at TORX screwdriver that fit the hex hole snugly. Now I have a broken
TORK tip wedged in the set screw hole. BUT - looking at the handle I had been
able to remove, I saw that the set screw just pressed against the faucet
cartridge stem (not going into any notable indentation. I was able to pull the
chrome cover straight up by wiggling it back and forth, and wedging q-tip
stems under it as space was created. So now it is off, although the set screw
still has the TORX tip jammed inside. I wish I had thought to force it up
before jamming up the set screw; with the handle off (the cartridge stem no
longer in the way), I could have just screwed the set screw in until it went
all the way through..

Well, isn't that special...

On 9/3/2018 12:14 PM, Hackin\' through wrote:
replying to Hackin' through, Hackin' through wrote:
.. Sink #2, the saga continues: Per another web page, I tried unscrewing it
using at TORX screwdriver that fit the hex hole snugly. Now I have a broken
TORK tip wedged in the set screw hole. BUT - looking at the handle I had
been
able to remove, I saw that the set screw just pressed against the faucet
cartridge stem (not going into any notable indentation. I was able to
pull the
chrome cover straight up by wiggling it back and forth, and wedging q-tip
stems under it as space was created. So now it is off, although the set
screw
still has the TORX tip jammed inside. I wish I had thought to force it up
before jamming up the set screw; with the handle off (the cartridge stem no
longer in the way), I could have just screwed the set screw in until it
went
all the way through..



Easy to fix. Do you want to have these problems in the future? No.
Go to the plumbing supply, buy a nice Kohler faucet and replace the crap
in there. Once and done.