Hi,

I start trying to solder brass valve for one of my garden hoses. The
problem is that the solder does not drawn into the joint. I follow the
instruction on Black & Decker home repair book. Solder melt at the edge
of the joint, then drop on the ground, and it does not suck into the
joint. I tried a couple of times, no solder ever drawn into the joint
and solder stays at the edge of joint, that is it. How am I going to
solder it correctly for brass valve? I heated the center of the valve
back and forth, nothing happened.

thx

You cleaned all parts first with emery cloth?

You did use flux?

'Cause it sounds like a no flux issue.



wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I start trying to solder brass valve for one of my garden hoses. The
problem is that the solder does not drawn into the joint. I follow the
instruction on Black & Decker home repair book. Solder melt at the edge
of the joint, then drop on the ground, and it does not suck into the
joint. I tried a couple of times, no solder ever drawn into the joint
and solder stays at the edge of joint, that is it. How am I going to
solder it correctly for brass valve? I heated the center of the valve
back and forth, nothing happened.

thx

--
Jim McLaughlin

Reply address is deliberately munged.
If you really need to reply directly, try:
jimdotmclaughlinatcomcastdotcom

And you know it is a dotnet not a dotcom
address.

wrote:
Hi,

I start trying to solder brass valve for one of my garden hoses. The
problem is that the solder does not drawn into the joint. I follow the
instruction on Black & Decker home repair book. Solder melt at the
edge of the joint, then drop on the ground, and it does not suck into
the joint. I tried a couple of times, no solder ever drawn into the
joint and solder stays at the edge of joint, that is it. How am I
going to solder it correctly for brass valve? I heated the center of
the valve back and forth, nothing happened.

thx

To me it sounds like it is not clean enough (flux aids in the cleaning)
or it is not hot enough, in that order.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Sounds like not enough flux or heat one of the two
Joseph Meehan wrote:
wrote:
Hi,

I start trying to solder brass valve for one of my garden hoses. The
problem is that the solder does not drawn into the joint. I follow the
instruction on Black & Decker home repair book. Solder melt at the
edge of the joint, then drop on the ground, and it does not suck into
the joint. I tried a couple of times, no solder ever drawn into the
joint and solder stays at the edge of joint, that is it. How am I
going to solder it correctly for brass valve? I heated the center of
the valve back and forth, nothing happened.

thx

To me it sounds like it is not clean enough (flux aids in the cleaning)
or it is not hot enough, in that order.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

both the pipe AND fittings MUST be completely shiney and abslutelty
clean, there are inexpensive tools to help do this

then flux both parts assemble and heat FITTINGS not solder!.....

run propane torch at FULL FLAME wide open for max heat and get fittings
hot then and only then apply solder.

its attention to details but pretty simple provided you have good
access...

More precisely, flux seals out oxygen which would otherwise react with
the brass and form a non-solderable layer of oxide. With a very clean
joint (both surfaces), flux, good solder, and adequate heat (use MAPP
gas), heat the joint where you want the solder to run. Then apply the
solder and wipe off the excess with a damp rag.


Joseph Meehan wrote:
wrote:
Hi,

I start trying to solder brass valve for one of my garden hoses. The
problem is that the solder does not drawn into the joint. I follow the
instruction on Black & Decker home repair book. Solder melt at the
edge of the joint, then drop on the ground, and it does not suck into
the joint. I tried a couple of times, no solder ever drawn into the
joint and solder stays at the edge of joint, that is it. How am I
going to solder it correctly for brass valve? I heated the center of
the valve back and forth, nothing happened.

thx

To me it sounds like it is not clean enough (flux aids in the cleaning)
or it is not hot enough, in that order.

wrote:
Hi,

I start trying to solder brass valve for one of my garden hoses. The
problem is that the solder does not drawn into the joint. I follow the
instruction on Black & Decker home repair book. Solder melt at the edge
of the joint, then drop on the ground, and it does not suck into the
joint. I tried a couple of times, no solder ever drawn into the joint
and solder stays at the edge of joint, that is it. How am I going to
solder it correctly for brass valve? I heated the center of the valve
back and forth, nothing happened.

thx

Hi,
Cleaned the parts to be soldered? Shiny clean. Applied flux?
Heating the parts to be soldered? Then apply solder which will
flow by capillary action.

The brass valve is probably farily heavy, and the heavier a fitting is,
the longer it takes to heat it up sufficiently for solder. Use Mapp
gas, not propane. It is much hotter. If you clean your parts, use
flux, and mapp gas, and some patience, it will work.

flank

wrote:
Hi,

I start trying to solder brass valve for one of my garden hoses. The
problem is that the solder does not drawn into the joint. I follow the
instruction on Black & Decker home repair book. Solder melt at the edge
of the joint, then drop on the ground, and it does not suck into the
joint. I tried a couple of times, no solder ever drawn into the joint
and solder stays at the edge of joint, that is it. How am I going to
solder it correctly for brass valve? I heated the center of the valve
back and forth, nothing happened.

thx

Stubby wrote:
More precisely, flux seals out oxygen which would otherwise react with
the brass and form a non-solderable layer of oxide.

Thanks for the clarification. I was not sure of it at the time, brain
dead again, and I did no bother to look it up.

With a very clean
joint (both surfaces), flux, good solder, and adequate heat (use MAPP
gas), heat the joint where you want the solder to run. Then apply the
solder and wipe off the excess with a damp rag.


Joseph Meehan wrote:
wrote:
Hi,

I start trying to solder brass valve for one of my garden hoses. The
problem is that the solder does not drawn into the joint. I follow
the instruction on Black & Decker home repair book. Solder melt at
the edge of the joint, then drop on the ground, and it does not
suck into the joint. I tried a couple of times, no solder ever
drawn into the joint and solder stays at the edge of joint, that is
it. How am I going to solder it correctly for brass valve? I heated
the center of the valve back and forth, nothing happened.

thx

To me it sounds like it is not clean enough (flux aids in the
cleaning) or it is not hot enough, in that order.


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Thanks everybody for taking time to answer my question.
Here is how I did it:
First I used torch to heat the copper pipe and tried to remove residue
of remaining solder with a clean sock(as damp cloth), then I used emery
cloth and the other tool(cleaning tool with wire in it) to clean the
pipe joint. I can tell that the copper pipe is shiny after cleaning. I
am not sure whether I need to clean the fitting of newly bought brass
valve or not, should I? Next I applied the flux only to the copper pipe
source, then placed the brass valve. I don't have MAPP gas, only the
propane gas. I heated the fitting until I can hear the sizzling sound,
then I applied the solder.
If I use propane torch, how can I tell that time is right to apply
solder or in other word, when the fitting is hot enough to apply solder
using propane torch? Can propane torch generate enough heat for
solering brass valve?
Thx again.

Thanks everybody for taking time to answer my question.
Here is how I did it:
First I used torch to heat the copper pipe and tried to remove residue
of remaining solder with a clean sock(as damp cloth), then I used
emery
cloth and the other tool(cleaning tool with wire in it) to clean the
pipe joint. I can tell that the copper pipe is shiny after cleaning.
CY: Clean is essential.

I
am not sure whether I need to clean the fitting of newly bought brass
valve or not, should I?
CY: yes. They sell brushes for doing this. About three bucks for the
brush. Worth every penny. The inside surface of the fitting (valve)
absoloutely totally has to be cleaned.


Next I applied the flux only to the copper pipe
source, then placed the brass valve.
CY: Then let it sit for aobut sixty seconds to let the flux work.

I don't have MAPP gas, only the
propane gas. I heated the fitting until I can hear the sizzling sound,
then I applied the solder.
If I use propane torch, how can I tell that time is right to apply
solder or in other word, when the fitting is hot enough to apply
solder
using propane torch?
CY: Put the heat on the near side of the fitting. Curve the solder
around, and touch it to the far side of the fitting where it meets the
pipe. At the exact moment hwen the solder starts to flow, feed in at
least an inch of solder. Any excess should drip out.

Can propane torch generate enough heat for
solering brass valve?
CY: Should be OK.

Thx again.

wrote in message

I can tell that the copper pipe is shiny after cleaning. I
am not sure whether I need to clean the fitting of newly bought brass
valve or not, should I?

ALWAYS clean the fitting. It does not take long for oxidation to cause a
problem. Clean and flux.



If I use propane torch, how can I tell that time is right to apply
solder or in other word, when the fitting is hot enough to apply solder
using propane torch?

Practice. When it is hot enough. just a touch will start the solder
melting. Once you've done a lot of joints, it gets easy. Rule of thumb is
to use a length of soler equal to the diameter of the tubing. Once hte
joint is made, just wife around it wiht a thick rag.


Can propane torch generate enough heat for
solering brass valve?

Yes, but it will take longer. New solders without lead take more heat than
the older versions. Open the valve so it does not get damaged by the heat.
Apply the heat to the portion of the valve that the tubing slips into. That
will draw the solder once if flows.

You must clean the both valve and the pipe.

You must flux both the valve and the pipe.

It can be soldered with a propane torch, but it will take longer than using
a MAPP gas torch.

--
Jim McLaughlin

Reply address is deliberately munged.
If you really need to reply directly, try:
jimdotmclaughlinatcomcastdotcom

And you know it is a dotnet not a dotcom
address.
wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks everybody for taking time to answer my question.
Here is how I did it:
First I used torch to heat the copper pipe and tried to remove residue
of remaining solder with a clean sock(as damp cloth), then I used emery
cloth and the other tool(cleaning tool with wire in it) to clean the
pipe joint. I can tell that the copper pipe is shiny after cleaning. I
am not sure whether I need to clean the fitting of newly bought brass
valve or not, should I? Next I applied the flux only to the copper pipe
source, then placed the brass valve. I don't have MAPP gas, only the
propane gas. I heated the fitting until I can hear the sizzling sound,
then I applied the solder.
If I use propane torch, how can I tell that time is right to apply
solder or in other word, when the fitting is hot enough to apply solder
using propane torch? Can propane torch generate enough heat for
solering brass valve?
Thx again.

Hi,
Cleaned the parts to be soldered? Shiny clean. Applied flux?
Heating the parts to be soldered? Then apply solder which will
flow by capillary action.

No, not shiny clean, the surface should be roughened a bit like with
sandpaper. Then wipe on waterbase flux on all contact areas to be
joined. The brass fittings will require a LOT more heat than copper to
get what you want done. It's not welding, but it is significantly
hotter than simple copper work. Remarkably, the flux will suddenly be
drawn in the void between the parts, and you'll know it worked. Be
careful not to move the parts when hot, or the solder joint can be
broken. Rather, dip in a bucket of water or hose the parts off to
quickly cool the finished joint.

I have seen a plumber fail to heat enough with propane after hours of
trying on 1.5" pipe, he did not have map gas.

I used to do that sort of thing. And did it well. Then, a few years
ago,
when I was doing a remod where the flame was an issue, I discovered
Copper-Bond.
A two-part epoxy product that caused me to decide that technology had
caused the torch to no longer be necessary.
Do what you decide you need to do. But you have my suggestion. Only
change I make is to use Q-tip sticks without the cotton, instead of the

provided squarish sticks provided.

wrote:
Hi,

I start trying to solder brass valve for one of my garden hoses. The
problem is that the solder does not drawn into the joint. I follow the
instruction on Black & Decker home repair book. Solder melt at the edge
of the joint, then drop on the ground, and it does not suck into the
joint. I tried a couple of times, no solder ever drawn into the joint
and solder stays at the edge of joint, that is it. How am I going to
solder it correctly for brass valve? I heated the center of the valve
back and forth, nothing happened.

thx

Alan wrote:
Hi,
Cleaned the parts to be soldered? Shiny clean. Applied flux?
Heating the parts to be soldered? Then apply solder which will
flow by capillary action.

No, not shiny clean, the surface should be roughened a bit like with
sandpaper.

BS, just roughening it up a bit is a recipe for failure. A pipe joint
being soldered does need to be shiny clean. That's what they make
those neat little wire brushes for or you can use emery cloth.


Then wipe on waterbase flux on all contact areas to be
joined. The brass fittings will require a LOT more heat than copper to
get what you want done. It's not welding, but it is significantly
hotter than simple copper work. Remarkably, the flux will suddenly be
drawn in the void between the parts, and you'll know it worked. Be
careful not to move the parts when hot, or the solder joint can be
broken. Rather, dip in a bucket of water or hose the parts off to
quickly cool the finished joint.

Don;t know anyone that plunges soldered joints into cold water either.
If that were the case, you'd have a hell of a mess trying to plumb a
house!

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I start trying to solder brass valve for one of my garden hoses. The
problem is that the solder does not drawn into the joint. I follow the
instruction on Black & Decker home repair book. Solder melt at the edge
of the joint, then drop on the ground, and it does not suck into the
joint. I tried a couple of times, no solder ever drawn into the joint
and solder stays at the edge of joint, that is it. How am I going to
solder it correctly for brass valve? I heated the center of the valve
back and forth, nothing happened.

thx

In addition to what every one else said about cleaning and fluxing there is
one very important item. You must remove as much water as possible from the
pipe system. Any water in the pipe , for 2 or 3 feet, will draw away the
heat and you will not be able to get the pipe hot enough to melt/flow the
solder.

I was soldering a connection one time and couldn't completely turn the water
supply off. I had to open every faucet in the house to divert water away.
Luckily there were other faucets that were lower.

A small pump such as a drill powered pump may work to evacuate the pipe.

Kevin

Hi,

I did practice as everybody suggested and failed again. I used a copper
pipe about a feet and had it cleaned, so did brass valve with wire
brush and both of them were shiny. I applied flux to both pipe and
valve. Then I heated it. I noticed that a smoke came off from the othe
end of pipe and the edge of joint turned black and I kept heating until
the solder melt, but still it did not flow into the joint. I have
removed the shut-off part of valve due to that there is rubber on it. I
am wondering whether the flux is no good since after failure, I remove
the joint, both surfaces of valve and pipe are black with some kind of
oxidized stuff. I believe that those black stuff may prevents solder
from working. But I just don't know why. The big problem for me is that
I don't know when to apply solder. When solder starts melting at the
edge of the joint, is it the right time or not? Since the smoke and
black thingy formed during the heating, I don't know what is going on
there.
thx

wrote:
Hi,

I did practice as everybody suggested and failed again. I used a copper
pipe about a feet and had it cleaned, so did brass valve with wire
brush and both of them were shiny. I applied flux to both pipe and
valve. Then I heated it. I noticed that a smoke came off from the othe
end of pipe and the edge of joint turned black and I kept heating until
the solder melt, but still it did not flow into the joint. I have
removed the shut-off part of valve due to that there is rubber on it. I
am wondering whether the flux is no good since after failure, I remove
the joint, both surfaces of valve and pipe are black with some kind of
oxidized stuff. I believe that those black stuff may prevents solder
from working. But I just don't know why. The big problem for me is that
I don't know when to apply solder. When solder starts melting at the
edge of the joint, is it the right time or not? Since the smoke and
black thingy formed during the heating, I don't know what is going on
there.
thx


You don;t want the solder there when you start heating the joint. You
want the joint to get good and hot first, then apply the solder while
continuing the heat. The solder should melt readily when it contacts
the joint. If it doesn't, take the solder away and continuing heating,
it's not hot enough. The best place to apply the solder is on the side
or behing the joint, away from the flame. The heat of the joint
should melt the solder, not the torch. You should be holding the flame
mostly against the brass valve where it joins the copper pipe.

I've never seen flux go bad. Are you sure this is flux for solder
joints? It's normal for maybe a wisp of smoke to show up during
heating, but you shouldn't be seeing lots of it and the area inside the
joint coated with flux should not be turning black.

What size pipe is this and what kind of torch are you using? Does the
torch have a proper pencil point shape blue flame?

wrote in message
from working. But I just don't know why. The big problem for me is that
I don't know when to apply solder. When solder starts melting at the
edge of the joint, is it the right time or not? Since the smoke and
black thingy formed during the heating, I don't know what is going on
there.
thx


I told you yesterday when to apply the solder. You just touch it and if it
flows, it flows. If not. wait. Sounds like you are overheating now.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I did practice as everybody suggested and failed again. I used a copper
pipe about a feet and had it cleaned, so did brass valve with wire
brush and both of them were shiny. I applied flux to both pipe and
valve. Then I heated it. I noticed that a smoke came off from the othe
end of pipe and the edge of joint turned black and I kept heating until
the solder melt, but still it did not flow into the joint. I have
removed the shut-off part of valve due to that there is rubber on it. I
am wondering whether the flux is no good since after failure, I remove
the joint, both surfaces of valve and pipe are black with some kind of
oxidized stuff. I believe that those black stuff may prevents solder
from working. But I just don't know why. The big problem for me is that
I don't know when to apply solder. When solder starts melting at the
edge of the joint, is it the right time or not? Since the smoke and
black thingy formed during the heating, I don't know what is going on
there.
thx


Not sure if this is you problem, but you should be using acid type flux for
plumbing. Do not use the rosin type flux which is for electronic circuits.

This may not be proper technique but this is what I do: I apply solder to
the joint when the metal joint is hot enough to melt the solder - not just
the torch flame.
That said, while heating, I am constantly testing every 2 or 3 seconds by
moving the flame away (flame on pipe but away from joint) for half a second
and touching the solder to the joint until I get to the point where the pipe
is melting the solder. At the point where the solder starts flowing I just
torch everything and feed solder until it looks like solder has flowed all
around and the joint is not taking any more - solder is dripping off the
pipe. I probably use more solder than is needed.


Kevin

In article .com, "Alan" wrote:

Hi,
Cleaned the parts to be soldered? Shiny clean. Applied flux?
Heating the parts to be soldered? Then apply solder which will
flow by capillary action.

No, not shiny clean, the surface should be roughened a bit like with
sandpaper.

Wrong. It needs to be smooth and shiny. Rough surfaces are a recipe for poor
joints.

Then wipe on waterbase flux on all contact areas to be
joined.

Wrong again -- no requirement that the flux be waterbased.

The brass fittings will require a LOT more heat than copper to
get what you want done. It's not welding, but it is significantly
hotter than simple copper work. Remarkably, the flux will suddenly be
drawn in the void between the parts, and you'll know it worked.

Nope. The *solder* will suddenly be drawn into the joint...

Be
careful not to move the parts when hot, or the solder joint can be
broken. Rather, dip in a bucket of water or hose the parts off to
quickly cool the finished joint.

And wrong yet again. *Never* suddenly cool a hot joint -- that can cause the
joint to crack.

Then of course there's the question of how you propose to dip a pipe into a
bucket of water...

Better stick to giving advice on topics you actually know something about.
Soldering copper pipes is not in that category.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article .com, " wrote:
Thanks everybody for taking time to answer my question.
Here is how I did it:
First I used torch to heat the copper pipe and tried to remove residue
of remaining solder with a clean sock(as damp cloth), then I used emery
cloth and the other tool(cleaning tool with wire in it) to clean the
pipe joint. I can tell that the copper pipe is shiny after cleaning. I
am not sure whether I need to clean the fitting of newly bought brass
valve or not, should I?

Clean it. It may not be necessary, but it takes only about ten seconds. No
point whatever in not doing it.

Next I applied the flux only to the copper pipe
source, then placed the brass valve.

Flux both the pipe and the valve.

I don't have MAPP gas, only the
propane gas.

That's not helping you. You can solder valves with propane, but it's a *lot*
easier with MAPP. It takes a *long* time to get a valve hot enough with
propane.

I heated the fitting until I can hear the sizzling sound,
then I applied the solder.

You didn't apply nearly enough heat to the valve. With a propane torch, it can
take several minutes to get a valve body hot enough to solder, *long* past the
point at which the flux begins to boil.

If I use propane torch, how can I tell that time is right to apply
solder or in other word, when the fitting is hot enough to apply solder
using propane torch?

It's real simple: when the fitting is hot enough to melt solder, then it's hot
enough to make the joint.

Can propane torch generate enough heat for
solering brass valve?

Yes, but you need to be more patient. It takes a *lot* longer to heat up a
valve body with propane than it does to heat up a coupling or elbow.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Thanks everybody for the help, finally I have succeeded and have
solered the brass valve for my garden hose. There were 3 things I did
differently:
1. I also polished the "diameter" edges of valve and copper pipe along
with joint surface
2. apply more flux than I did before
3. stop heating when solder starts melting

I think that step 3 is more important. Since I heard so many things
about "propane torch" is not hot enough, I guess that I overheated most
of times, and each time I noticed the black thingy. I guess that
overheating will prevent capillary action to suceed(my personal
opionion).
Anyway, thanks so much for so many kind advices and now I consider
myself a "half" plumber now.

"Alan" wrote in message
oups.com...


No, not shiny clean, the surface should be roughened a bit like with
sandpaper.
CY: I've always done shiny clean.

Then wipe on waterbase flux on all contact areas to be
joined. The brass fittings will require a LOT more heat than copper
to
get what you want done. It's not welding, but it is significantly
hotter than simple copper work.
CY: Same temp, but it requires much more torch action to get the valve
to that temp. So, it's not signifigantly hotter in that it's the same
temperature.

Remarkably, the flux will suddenly be
drawn in the void between the parts, and you'll know it worked.
CY: I apply the flux before the heat. The flux isn't suddenly drawn
in. I put the flux there.

Be
careful not to move the parts when hot, or the solder joint can be
broken.
CY: yes,t hat's good advice.

Rather, dip in a bucket of water or hose the parts off to
quickly cool the finished joint.
CY: I wouldn't want to dip a solder joint in a bucket of water -- that
would be moving it. However, I might apply a wet rag to the joint and
let the wet rag boil and steam. With most fittings, I just walk away
and let it cool on its own. With a valve, it's a good idea to keep the
valve cool with a wet rag (small towel). So as not to damage the parts
inside the valve. But for couplers or elbows, let em cool slowly on
their own.

Heat the side of the fitting closest to you. Apply the solder from the
very first moment you start heating. When the fitting is just warm
enough, the solder will flow.

Sounds like you've overheated the fitting, and applied the solder too
late.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I did practice as everybody suggested and failed again. I used a
copper
pipe about a feet and had it cleaned, so did brass valve with wire
brush and both of them were shiny. I applied flux to both pipe and
valve. Then I heated it. I noticed that a smoke came off from the othe
end of pipe and the edge of joint turned black and I kept heating
until
the solder melt, but still it did not flow into the joint. I have
removed the shut-off part of valve due to that there is rubber on it.
I
am wondering whether the flux is no good since after failure, I remove
the joint, both surfaces of valve and pipe are black with some kind of
oxidized stuff. I believe that those black stuff may prevents solder
from working. But I just don't know why. The big problem for me is
that
I don't know when to apply solder. When solder starts melting at the
edge of the joint, is it the right time or not? Since the smoke and
black thingy formed during the heating, I don't know what is going on
there.
thx

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...



"Alan" wrote in message
oups.com...


No, not shiny clean, the surface should be roughened a bit like with
sandpaper.
CY: I've always done shiny clean.

Then wipe on waterbase flux on all contact areas to be
joined. The brass fittings will require a LOT more heat than copper
to
get what you want done. It's not welding, but it is significantly
hotter than simple copper work.
CY: Same temp, but it requires much more torch action to get the valve
to that temp. So, it's not signifigantly hotter in that it's the same
temperature.

Remarkably, the flux will suddenly be
drawn in the void between the parts, and you'll know it worked.
CY: I apply the flux before the heat. The flux isn't suddenly drawn
in. I put the flux there.

Be
careful not to move the parts when hot, or the solder joint can be
broken.
CY: yes,t hat's good advice.

Rather, dip in a bucket of water or hose the parts off to
quickly cool the finished joint.
CY: I wouldn't want to dip a solder joint in a bucket of water -- that
would be moving it. However, I might apply a wet rag to the joint and
let the wet rag boil and steam. With most fittings, I just walk away
and let it cool on its own. With a valve, it's a good idea to keep the
valve cool with a wet rag (small towel). So as not to damage the parts
inside the valve. But for couplers or elbows, let em cool slowly on
their own.


Wouldn't you risk cracking the solder and/or deforming the pipe from rapid
cooling of the hot joint? Myself, being the MASTER plumber I think I am
(honey where's that shutoff again???) would do what you suggest and walk
away and let air take care of the rest.

With an elbow or coupler, it's just copper. On the other hand, a valve
has a plastic ball, or a rubber faucet washer. In those case, it's
best not to get the valve cooking hot. So the wet rag is more benefit
(keeping valve cool) than risk of the solder.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
. ..

CY: I wouldn't want to dip a solder joint in a bucket of water --
that
would be moving it. However, I might apply a wet rag to the joint
and
let the wet rag boil and steam. With most fittings, I just walk away
and let it cool on its own. With a valve, it's a good idea to keep
the
valve cool with a wet rag (small towel). So as not to damage the
parts
inside the valve. But for couplers or elbows, let em cool slowly on
their own.


Wouldn't you risk cracking the solder and/or deforming the pipe from
rapid
cooling of the hot joint? Myself, being the MASTER plumber I think I
am
(honey where's that shutoff again???) would do what you suggest and
walk
away and let air take care of the rest.

Are both pieces perfectly dry as this will affect the solder joint heat
the fitting till the solder starts to sizzle then dab the solder to the
fitting and keep warm enough to melt the solder then let cool either in
air or with wet rag. wrote:
Hi,

I start trying to solder brass valve for one of my garden hoses. The
problem is that the solder does not drawn into the joint. I follow the
instruction on Black & Decker home repair book. Solder melt at the edge
of the joint, then drop on the ground, and it does not suck into the
joint. I tried a couple of times, no solder ever drawn into the joint
and solder stays at the edge of joint, that is it. How am I going to
solder it correctly for brass valve? I heated the center of the valve
back and forth, nothing happened.

thx