I posted this pic quite some time ago showing rot around my toilet from
below.



I have now removed the toilet, a layer of tile, a layer of vinyl
flooring and the two layers of underlayment that were accociated with
the flooring.

I cut the rot out and now have one problem and that is supporting the
new subfloor I must install.



On the west side the tounge is available so that will not be a problem.
For the north, I plan to cut back to the floor joist or alternatively
cut even with the joist and add a sister to the floor joist to make
things easy for myself.
On the east, I will add a 2x4 to connect the floor joists and use that
for support.

That leaves the south... it is an outer wall and the floor joist is 6
inches in (beyond the floor I have cut out. I can only think of two
options (since there is plumbing in the way to make things worse....
(1) Add a hanger 6 inches in between the two joists, then put in a
crosser of some kind... or (2) screw some thick plywood to the bottom
of the existing subfloor and use that for support.

Any advice or other options?

your idea of screwing some plywood is a good way to go. you could also
use a chunk of 2x material. if you use 3" drywall screws, you can
screw from the top and draw the backing tight to the bottom the
existing plywood. better check the insulation in the rim joist area
and make sure everything is dry and in good shape.

"Barry" wrote in message
oups.com...
I posted this pic quite some time ago showing rot around my toilet from
below.



I have now removed the toilet, a layer of tile, a layer of vinyl
flooring and the two layers of underlayment that were accociated with
the flooring.

I cut the rot out and now have one problem and that is supporting the
new subfloor I must install.



On the west side the tounge is available so that will not be a problem.
For the north, I plan to cut back to the floor joist or alternatively
cut even with the joist and add a sister to the floor joist to make
things easy for myself.
On the east, I will add a 2x4 to connect the floor joists and use that
for support.

That leaves the south... it is an outer wall and the floor joist is 6
inches in (beyond the floor I have cut out. I can only think of two
options (since there is plumbing in the way to make things worse....
(1) Add a hanger 6 inches in between the two joists, then put in a
crosser of some kind... or (2) screw some thick plywood to the bottom
of the existing subfloor and use that for support.

Any advice or other options?


NSWE without references confused me. I am assuming that your problem is
with the area where the toilet supply line is. Other than the wall sitting
on it, I can not see that area getting a lot of traffic. If you can figure
out a way to properly support a 2x4 under the cut edge of the osb it will
support the minimal load you need supported. Use a joist hanger at 1 PM
position and the 8 PM position and run the 2x along that axis.

My answer is as confusing as your question.

Here 2000 words. Add 2x4 or better where the red lines are.

http://www.imagegenie.net/uploads/dcb4f7d8aa.jpg

I would add the extra cross bracing under the toilet flange also.



--
Colbyt
One picture can be worth a 1000 words.
Post yours at www.ImageGenie.net for FREE.

Getting good acess at the 1 pm and 8 pm positions may prove to be a
problem as the joist is in about 6 inches under the concrete block with
a gap of about 6 inches for access. What do you suggest a hanger?

As for the insulation, it is all in perfect condition. The water never
touched the outerwalls of the bathroom or otherwise.

"Barry" wrote in message
oups.com...
Getting good acess at the 1 pm and 8 pm positions may prove to be a
problem as the joist is in about 6 inches under the concrete block with
a gap of about 6 inches for access. What do you suggest a hanger?

As for the insulation, it is all in perfect condition. The water never
touched the outerwalls of the bathroom or otherwise.

A single or double joist hanger depending on how straight you cut is.

There are a couple of ways to do it. All of which would work. But you have
to think about the deal killers, home inspectors when you sell. With that
in mind my preferred approach would be to use joist hangers and to attach
them to the rim joists and to the added headers. I would use 1.5" #8 hex
head screws in lieu of nails. Installed using a cordless drill and a 1/4"
hex head bit with a 6" shaft this lessens the misery a little. Isn't going
to be fun. This type of repair never is. For the angled nail into the
hanger I would use a 2" or longer #8 hex head. There will be a couple you
just can't get to and I would not worry about them. You won't find a one
piece 1/4" x 6" hex driver at the BORG. Look for a local screw supply
company. Should cost about $5 unless they see you coming.

It looks like your joist are 2x8. If you can get a 2x6 over the water pipe,
I would use that instead of 2x4. It really isn't needed IMO in this case
but remember the deal killers.

Second best option would be cut blocks on 2x material and wedge under them
using shims to secure a tight fit.


Colbyt

Thanks... I will get the hanger in there...somehow.... The exhaust
pipe you can see in the insulation will requite use of 2x4 .... by
looking at it.... butI will measure and try for a 2x6 if I can..

How do I get the new sub under the flange.. work around it with 2
pieces making up the new sub floor ....or cut the flange out and redo
the PVC?

"Barry" wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks... I will get the hanger in there...somehow.... The exhaust
pipe you can see in the insulation will requite use of 2x4 .... by
looking at it.... butI will measure and try for a 2x6 if I can..

How do I get the new sub under the flange.. work around it with 2
pieces making up the new sub floor ....or cut the flange out and redo
the PVC?


I have done it both ways more than once. One each in the same bathroom. .
I think in the future working with ABS or PVC I will always cut the pipe
and add a coupling somewhere. It just makes life simpler that way. If it
is in an exposed location (crawlspaces are exposed) you can use a Fernco
rubber coupling to reconnect the pipe. They cost 5-6 bucks but they sure
are easy to work with.

I hang around here a lot but make note of my email address, remove the
obvious, and contact me direct if I miss one of your posts. Mention
alt.home.repair in the subject because I delete a lot of crap without ever
looking at it.


Colbyt

Done