Is WD40 a good penetrating oil to use on a stubborn sheet metal screw
that is located inside an electric walloven ? I am wondering what the
odor will be when I eventually light this oven off once again ? Will
the WD40 eventually evaporate? I hope that it will before being
heated by the oven.

Problem is also that the screw is located at the top inside surface of
the oven; so, the WD40 is not going to be sucked upward, is it ?

I have the whole oven now out of the wall cabinet. Thinking that I
might be able to rotate the oven 180 degrees vertically, and then
squirt some WD40.

The screw is a cross-tip Phillips and somewhat stripped now, and is
one of two screws that secure the Broil element to the oven ceiling.
UGH !

All this effort to remove the broil (top) element in a (1974 era)
Whirlpool single oven and I am now at a standstill.

de ~ Vince ~
:Long Island:

..

Go ahead and use the WD-40. wont hurt a thing. And will not create to
much of a smell if you burn it off.

Get you some PB Blaster. WD40 sucks the bag. It's just yuppified kerosene.

--
Steve Barker


"Vince" wrote in message
...

Is WD40 a good penetrating oil to use on a stubborn sheet metal screw
that is located inside an electric walloven ? I am wondering what the
odor will be when I eventually light this oven off once again ? Will
the WD40 eventually evaporate? I hope that it will before being
heated by the oven.

Problem is also that the screw is located at the top inside surface of
the oven; so, the WD40 is not going to be sucked upward, is it ?

I have the whole oven now out of the wall cabinet. Thinking that I
might be able to rotate the oven 180 degrees vertically, and then
squirt some WD40.

The screw is a cross-tip Phillips and somewhat stripped now, and is
one of two screws that secure the Broil element to the oven ceiling.
UGH !

All this effort to remove the broil (top) element in a (1974 era)
Whirlpool single oven and I am now at a standstill.

de ~ Vince ~
:Long Island:

.

"Vince" wrote in message
...

Is WD40 a good penetrating oil to use on a stubborn sheet metal
screw
that is located inside an electric walloven ? I am wondering
what the
odor will be when I eventually light this oven off once again ?
Will
the WD40 eventually evaporate? I hope that it will before
being
heated by the oven.

Problem is also that the screw is located at the top inside
surface of
the oven; so, the WD40 is not going to be sucked upward, is it
?

I have the whole oven now out of the wall cabinet. Thinking
that I
might be able to rotate the oven 180 degrees vertically, and
then
squirt some WD40.

The screw is a cross-tip Phillips and somewhat stripped now,
and is
one of two screws that secure the Broil element to the oven
ceiling.
UGH !

All this effort to remove the broil (top) element in a (1974
era)
Whirlpool single oven and I am now at a standstill.

de ~ Vince ~
:Long Island:

.



wd40 is not penetrating oil. try kroil

http://www.kanolabs.com/

The best tool for this job is a hammer operated impact driver with a #2
Phillips bit. If there is not enough socket left for the bit to grip, cut a
slot with a Dremel tool and use a flat bit. A good name-brand driver and
bits are more likely to be successful.
Don Young
"Vince" wrote in message
...

Is WD40 a good penetrating oil to use on a stubborn sheet metal screw
that is located inside an electric walloven ? I am wondering what the
odor will be when I eventually light this oven off once again ? Will
the WD40 eventually evaporate? I hope that it will before being
heated by the oven.

Problem is also that the screw is located at the top inside surface of
the oven; so, the WD40 is not going to be sucked upward, is it ?

I have the whole oven now out of the wall cabinet. Thinking that I
might be able to rotate the oven 180 degrees vertically, and then
squirt some WD40.

The screw is a cross-tip Phillips and somewhat stripped now, and is
one of two screws that secure the Broil element to the oven ceiling.
UGH !

All this effort to remove the broil (top) element in a (1974 era)
Whirlpool single oven and I am now at a standstill.

de ~ Vince ~
:Long Island:

.

sheet metal screw in an interior oven panel probably wouldnt take the
impact too well......

Get a pair of vise grips and remove the screw....go back with a larger
screw.......

Use rubbing alcohol to remove any traces of penetrating oil.......

"Kathy" wrote in message
...

"Vince" wrote in message
...



wd40 is not penetrating oil. try kroil

http://www.kanolabs.com/


I agree . Not sure what WD 40 is good for around most houses. Think I have
only bought one can in 40 years. The Kroil oil is the best penetrating oil
I have used . Spray it on and give it plenty of time. If you have the
time, spray it on and wait over night. If still have time, spray it again
and wait another day.

FYI ... WD 40 = "Water Displacing" formula "40". It is not
an oil of any kind. It is not intended to be a lubricant, as
many people think.

"Vince" wrote in message
...

Is WD40 a good penetrating oil to use on a stubborn sheet
metal screw
that is located inside an electric walloven ? I am
wondering what the
odor will be when I eventually light this oven off once
again ? Will
the WD40 eventually evaporate? I hope that it will
before being
heated by the oven.

Problem is also that the screw is located at the top
inside surface of
the oven; so, the WD40 is not going to be sucked upward,
is it ?

I have the whole oven now out of the wall cabinet.
Thinking that I
might be able to rotate the oven 180 degrees vertically,
and then
squirt some WD40.

The screw is a cross-tip Phillips and somewhat stripped
now, and is
one of two screws that secure the Broil element to the
oven ceiling.
UGH !

All this effort to remove the broil (top) element in a
(1974 era)
Whirlpool single oven and I am now at a standstill.

de ~ Vince ~
:Long Island:

.

Tom McQuinn wrote:
Recently an aircraft mechanic showed me how he gets phillips head screws
out. First off he said he never uses a chrome tipped screwdriver. He
uses the hardened tip kind - black on the end. Then when a screw head
started to strip he would put valve grinding compound on the tip of the
screw driver to make it grip.

Sears sells a product called Grip Doctor in a 3.5 oz. bottle. Very
much like the valve grinding compound you mention, it's made the
difference for me a few times since I bought it.

--
All relevant people are pertinent.
All rude people are impertinent.
Therefore, no rude people are relevant.
-- Solomon W. Golomb

Steve Barker LT wrote:
Get you some PB Blaster.

Seconded. I've had almost no luck with Kroil.

--
All relevant people are pertinent.
All rude people are impertinent.
Therefore, no rude people are relevant.
-- Solomon W. Golomb

clifto wrote:
Tom McQuinn wrote:
Recently an aircraft mechanic showed me how he gets phillips head screws
out. First off he said he never uses a chrome tipped screwdriver. He
uses the hardened tip kind - black on the end. Then when a screw head
started to strip he would put valve grinding compound on the tip of the
screw driver to make it grip.

Sears sells a product called Grip Doctor in a 3.5 oz. bottle. Very
much like the valve grinding compound you mention, it's made the
difference for me a few times since I bought it.

If you're not able to take the time to go out and buy real
penetrating oil, I've had good luck using WD40. The
difference is that I first wet the joint with WD40, then
give it a drop or two of light oil. This works particularly
well on hinges, for example. The WD40 carries the oil with
itself into the joint, and when it evaporates the oil is
left behind.

The suggestion about adding a grit to the screwdriver tip
works well. You also might consider making a 1-time
investment in a "drive" type of screwdriver. It's a heavy
duty version of the old Yankee screwdriver. You insert an
appropriate screwdriver tip, then tap the end with a hammer.
The screwdriver converts the tap into a rotary motion to
break the screw free.

Finally, you might consider using a rotary cutter in a
Dremel or even a hacksaw blade to crosscut the Phillips
screw head and use a parallel (no bevel) flat blade driver
as a last resort. Heck, you might even just drill the
darned thing out and use a bigger screw to replace it, but
don't tell anyone I suggested such a simple solution. grin

Mark

Mark and Gloria Hagwood wrote:
clifto wrote:

Tom McQuinn wrote:

Recently an aircraft mechanic showed me how he gets phillips head
screws out. First off he said he never uses a chrome tipped
screwdriver. He uses the hardened tip kind - black on the end. Then
when a screw head started to strip he would put valve grinding
compound on the tip of the screw driver to make it grip.


Sears sells a product called Grip Doctor in a 3.5 oz. bottle. Very
much like the valve grinding compound you mention, it's made the
difference for me a few times since I bought it.

If you're not able to take the time to go out and buy real penetrating
oil, I've had good luck using WD40. The difference is that I first wet
the joint with WD40, then give it a drop or two of light oil. This
works particularly well on hinges, for example. The WD40 carries the
oil with itself into the joint, and when it evaporates the oil is left
behind.

The suggestion about adding a grit to the screwdriver tip works well.
You also might consider making a 1-time investment in a "drive" type of
screwdriver. It's a heavy duty version of the old Yankee screwdriver.
You insert an appropriate screwdriver tip, then tap the end with a
hammer. The screwdriver converts the tap into a rotary motion to break
the screw free.

It is not a heavy duty Yankee screwdriver, it is
called an impact screwdriver. And you can use one
on sheetmetal work, you would just put a hole in it.


Finally, you might consider using a rotary cutter in a Dremel or even a
hacksaw blade to crosscut the Phillips screw head and use a parallel (no
bevel) flat blade driver as a last resort. Heck, you might even just
drill the darned thing out and use a bigger screw to replace it, but
don't tell anyone I suggested such a simple solution. grin

The last is the real way to handle such a problem.


Mark

Frank K. writes:

It is not
an oil of any kind. It is not intended to be a lubricant, as
many people think.

Bunk.

It is a light petroleum distillate, approximately kerosene-like in weight.
Learn what "oleum" means. Oil.

It says "Lubricates" right on the can.

OKay, here is an update:

First of all, thank you for reponses. I knew some of the points
mentioned and was reminded about those. I learned some new
ideas/tricks as well.

The stubborn/partially stripped out screwhead is used to secure the
top Broil heating element to the oven's ceiling. Thus, use of a vise
grip was not immediately possible due to interferance with the bracket
for the element.

I gained access to the Broil heating element's terminals by opening up
the rear cover to the walloven. Although no physical signs of
damage, an ohmmeter check shows infinite resistance (open circuit).

So, I used a hack saw to cut the mounting element near the stubborn
screw, thereby being able to now remove the heating element from the
oven. Left with an L shaped piece of remaining mounting bracket, I
used a pliers to twist and remove another section of the mounting
bracket. Then a vise grip on the screwhead finally enabled removal of
the screw from the walloven.

Unfortunately, the appliance parts distributor, normally open until 12
noontime, was closed, yesterday. I hopefully will find a replacement
element on Monday and get this annoying project completed.

Thanks again for your infos.

de ~ Vince ~
Long Island, NY