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#1
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Advice for repair of corroded hot water line
I have a corroded soft copper tube (Type M?) hot water line that is
laying on the ground in a short crawl space under the kitchen floor. I think the line corroded because it contacted the soil rather than being hung from the joists. I want to repair the line. I cut a hole in the kitchen floor to expose the work area. The defect is corrosion pinholing. The first fix I tried was to cut out a generous amount around the defect and then splice in new Type L with 2 compression fittings on either end. That did not work - probably because the soft copper tubing had reduced OD and wasn't "snuggable" in the compression fitting. Next, I tried sweating in some couplers to a new splice. That did not work; I had small partial failures at the joints. I had cleaned (sandpaper) especially well (but obviously not well enough). I also fluxed/pre-wetted the old ends by heating and flowing and then wiping away the solder so as to keep it fairly thin. The old ends, when sweating, just didn't flow like new. The joints to the new piece was just fine. Is there a particular technique to super clean old work? Is there a different repair technique altogether? Replacing the whole line is cost prohibitive - mostly because of collateral damage to open up walls. I would likely go "above" (attic) to run the new lines. Can anyone help with a repair technique? Thanks. John |
#2
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Advice for repair of corroded hot water line
"J" wrote in message ... I have a corroded soft copper tube (Type M?) hot water line that is laying on the ground in a short crawl space under the kitchen floor. I think the line corroded because it contacted the soil rather than being hung from the joists. I want to repair the line. I cut a hole in the kitchen floor to expose the work area. The defect is corrosion pinholing. The first fix I tried was to cut out a generous amount around the defect and then splice in new Type L with 2 compression fittings on either end. That did not work - probably because the soft copper tubing had reduced OD and wasn't "snuggable" in the compression fitting. Next, I tried sweating in some couplers to a new splice. That did not work; I had small partial failures at the joints. I had cleaned (sandpaper) especially well (but obviously not well enough). I also fluxed/pre-wetted the old ends by heating and flowing and then wiping away the solder so as to keep it fairly thin. The old ends, when sweating, just didn't flow like new. The joints to the new piece was just fine. Is there a particular technique to super clean old work? Is there a different repair technique altogether? Replacing the whole line is cost prohibitive - mostly because of collateral damage to open up walls. I would likely go "above" (attic) to run the new lines. Can anyone help with a repair technique? Thanks. John I'd replace it with plastic. CPVC or tube. Better get it all because if its leaking in 1 place it will leak in another later. |
#3
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Advice for repair of corroded hot water line
Try again using compression fittings for flared pipe ends rather than using
the ones with just ferrules. Probably need to buy a flaring tool too. What size is the tube? "J" wrote in message ... I have a corroded soft copper tube (Type M?) hot water line that is laying on the ground in a short crawl space under the kitchen floor. I think the line corroded because it contacted the soil rather than being hung from the joists. I want to repair the line. I cut a hole in the kitchen floor to expose the work area. The defect is corrosion pinholing. The first fix I tried was to cut out a generous amount around the defect and then splice in new Type L with 2 compression fittings on either end. That did not work - probably because the soft copper tubing had reduced OD and wasn't "snuggable" in the compression fitting. Next, I tried sweating in some couplers to a new splice. That did not work; I had small partial failures at the joints. I had cleaned (sandpaper) especially well (but obviously not well enough). I also fluxed/pre-wetted the old ends by heating and flowing and then wiping away the solder so as to keep it fairly thin. The old ends, when sweating, just didn't flow like new. The joints to the new piece was just fine. Is there a particular technique to super clean old work? Is there a different repair technique altogether? Replacing the whole line is cost prohibitive - mostly because of collateral damage to open up walls. I would likely go "above" (attic) to run the new lines. Can anyone help with a repair technique? Thanks. John |
#4
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Advice for repair of corroded hot water line
J wrote:
I have a corroded soft copper tube (Type M?) hot water line that is laying on the ground in a short crawl space under the kitchen floor. I think the line corroded because it contacted the soil rather than being hung from the joists. I want to repair the line. I cut a hole in the kitchen floor to expose the work area. The defect is corrosion pinholing. The first fix I tried was to cut out a generous amount around the defect and then splice in new Type L with 2 compression fittings on either end. That did not work - probably because the soft copper tubing had reduced OD and wasn't "snuggable" in the compression fitting. Next, I tried sweating in some couplers to a new splice. That did not work; I had small partial failures at the joints. I had cleaned (sandpaper) especially well (but obviously not well enough). I also fluxed/pre-wetted the old ends by heating and flowing and then wiping away the solder so as to keep it fairly thin. The old ends, when sweating, just didn't flow like new. The joints to the new piece was just fine. Is there a particular technique to super clean old work? Is there a different repair technique altogether? Replacing the whole line is cost prohibitive - mostly because of collateral damage to open up walls. I would likely go "above" (attic) to run the new lines. Can anyone help with a repair technique? Thanks. John It will just leak again in another spot even if you get a good connection to the replacement piece. Consider full replacement with PEX tubing since the flexibility of the PEX should let you fish it through walls with a minimum of openings. Pete C. |
#5
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Advice for repair of corroded hot water line
Yeah PEX is the way to go and real easy to work with!
DO IT RIGHT DO IT ONCE! Then go relax! |
#6
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Advice for repair of corroded hot water line
J wrote:
I have a corroded soft copper tube (Type M?) hot water line that is laying on the ground in a short crawl space under the kitchen floor. I think the line corroded because it contacted the soil rather than being hung from the joists. I want to repair the line. I cut a hole in the kitchen floor to expose the work area. The defect is corrosion pinholing. The first fix I tried was to cut out a generous amount around the defect and then splice in new Type L with 2 compression fittings on either end. That did not work - probably because the soft copper tubing had reduced OD and wasn't "snuggable" in the compression fitting. Next, I tried sweating in some couplers to a new splice. That did not work; I had small partial failures at the joints. I had cleaned (sandpaper) especially well (but obviously not well enough). I also fluxed/pre-wetted the old ends by heating and flowing and then wiping away the solder so as to keep it fairly thin. The old ends, when sweating, just didn't flow like new. The joints to the new piece was just fine. Is there a particular technique to super clean old work? Is there a different repair technique altogether? Replacing the whole line is cost prohibitive - mostly because of collateral damage to open up walls. I would likely go "above" (attic) to run the new lines. Can anyone help with a repair technique? Thanks. John Hi, If I were you, I'd just splice in a length of Pemex(won't corrode). This may be easiest way. You may have to rent the crimping tool for half day or so. Solder in two adaptor fittings at both ends fit the Pemex over the fitting nipple, crimp. If you're soldering old pipe, clean well and make sure there is no moisture. Good luck, |
#7
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Advice for repair of corroded hot water line
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#8
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Advice for repair of corroded hot water line
When you use compression fittings, it's wise to oil the nut, ferrule,
and pipe before tightening. the oil (WD is ok, and 30 weight non detergent is good, too) lets the fitting slip and slide into shape. Sometimes a couple drops of oil makes all the difference, in getting a good seal. -- Christopher A. Young You can't shout down a troll. You have to starve them. .. "J" wrote in message ... I have a corroded soft copper tube (Type M?) hot water line that is laying on the ground in a short crawl space under the kitchen floor. I think the line corroded because it contacted the soil rather than being hung from the joists. I want to repair the line. I cut a hole in the kitchen floor to expose the work area. The defect is corrosion pinholing. The first fix I tried was to cut out a generous amount around the defect and then splice in new Type L with 2 compression fittings on either end. That did not work - probably because the soft copper tubing had reduced OD and wasn't "snuggable" in the compression fitting. Next, I tried sweating in some couplers to a new splice. That did not work; I had small partial failures at the joints. I had cleaned (sandpaper) especially well (but obviously not well enough). I also fluxed/pre-wetted the old ends by heating and flowing and then wiping away the solder so as to keep it fairly thin. The old ends, when sweating, just didn't flow like new. The joints to the new piece was just fine. Is there a particular technique to super clean old work? Is there a different repair technique altogether? Replacing the whole line is cost prohibitive - mostly because of collateral damage to open up walls. I would likely go "above" (attic) to run the new lines. Can anyone help with a repair technique? Thanks. John |
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