I'm about to paint my kitchen cabinets. Actually I did it once a number of
years ago. They were finished with varnish or polyurethane (not sure
which). I sanded, etched, and sprayed them with Zinsser, then with an oil
based enamel. They didn't turn out particularly well or bad for that
matter.

So anyway I need to re-do them and I'd like to do a better job than before.
Last time I bought a $100 Wagner airless sprayer.

So this time around I want suggestions. What material and what equipment.

Thanks
Ken

I use a brush. I brush on a couple of coats of sandable enamel undercoat
sanding between coats. Then I brush on a couple of coats of oil based
enamel. Oil based paint is getting hard to find. I would shop at a high
quality paint store.

"Ken" wrote in message
...
I'm about to paint my kitchen cabinets. Actually I did it once a number
of years ago. They were finished with varnish or polyurethane (not sure
which). I sanded, etched, and sprayed them with Zinsser, then with an oil
based enamel. They didn't turn out particularly well or bad for that
matter.

So anyway I need to re-do them and I'd like to do a better job than
before. Last time I bought a $100 Wagner airless sprayer.

So this time around I want suggestions. What material and what equipment.

Thanks
Ken

On Wed, 15 Feb 2006 19:05:11 -0800, "Ken"
scribbled this interesting note:

I'm about to paint my kitchen cabinets. Actually I did it once a number of
years ago. They were finished with varnish or polyurethane (not sure
which). I sanded, etched, and sprayed them with Zinsser, then with an oil
based enamel. They didn't turn out particularly well or bad for that
matter.

So anyway I need to re-do them and I'd like to do a better job than before.
Last time I bought a $100 Wagner airless sprayer.

So this time around I want suggestions. What material and what equipment.

Thanks
Ken


For painting kitchen cabinets, I'd use the same process I would any
other interior woodwork...

Sand, clean, prime with sandable primer. Depending upon the level of
finish I want, I may repeat this step up to two more times.

After all the priming has been done, clean them well. Use a tack-cloth
to get all the dust off. Let the dust settle for a day and do it
again. Then, after masking off all the rest of the house (a closed
doorway or drop cloth tacked up across an open doorway will do the
trick) and after masking off all the surrounding areas that I didn't
want painted, I'd begin with a high quality oil based enamel. If I
want an exceptional finish, I use a sprayer and thin the paint just a
bit. If I want to rush, I use Japan Dryer so the paint dries faster-it
lessens the amount of time between coats.

Spray a coat. Let it dry. Sand, clean, repeat. Two or three times.
Thin coats are better than heavy, unless you are a good judge of when
to stop spraying, in which case you spray until the paint flows
together, and then stop.

It is lucky you are doing this yourself. The cost in this kind of
project is the labor, not the materials and equipment. As for the
equipment, I like a HVLP sprayer.

Good luck

--
John Willis

(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

Today I purchased a Graco XR7 airless sprayer for about $450. Decided not
to get a bottom-of-the-line unit since I'll be using it a lot over the next
2 years.

The paint salesman said that a good quality Latex paint, mixed with Floetrol
should give a good finish when applied with the airless sprayer. I am
somewhat dubious about that - I always considered latex to be a cheap
imitation of "real" paint (oil based). But based on his recommendations
I'll go ahead with latex. I'll start the process and post the results

Another thing I learned is that oil based paint is getting pretty hard to
find. Lowes had just a couple of cans. I wanted a very bright white for
the cabinets rather than just a plain white. That also helped me decide to
go ahead with latex. Also, nowadays all the oil based paint is labeled that
it is to be used only over metal substrate and only for commercial
applications. The paint guy said it's the same oil-based paint they always
sold, they just label it that way for legal reasons - to discourage
homeowners from using it because they usually don't dispose of waste
products proberly.

Ken.
"Ken" wrote in message
...
I'm about to paint my kitchen cabinets. Actually I did it once a number
of years ago. They were finished with varnish or polyurethane (not sure
which). I sanded, etched, and sprayed them with Zinsser, then with an oil
based enamel. They didn't turn out particularly well or bad for that
matter.

So anyway I need to re-do them and I'd like to do a better job than
before. Last time I bought a $100 Wagner airless sprayer.

So this time around I want suggestions. What material and what equipment.

Thanks
Ken

Surface prep is MOST important, if it were ME I would brush it and add
that flow stuff so its smoother.

Brushing washes the paint into the surface below, whereas spraying just
applies a coat. it doesnt adhere as well and cabinets take lots of
abuse.

so sand all surfaces, wash down and rinse repeatedly, let dry a few
days, since water can get into cracks, use tack cloth, prime, sand
again, tack cloth again, then finish coat.

since I am basically lazy brushing is less work, and besides getting
into every crevice with a sprayer is tough.

let us know how it comes out

Ken wrote:
Today I purchased a Graco XR7 airless sprayer for about $450. Decided not
to get a bottom-of-the-line unit since I'll be using it a
lot over the next 2 years.

The paint salesman said that a good quality Latex paint, mixed with
Floetrol should give a good finish when applied with the airless
sprayer. I am somewhat dubious about that - I always considered
latex to be a cheap imitation of "real" paint (oil based). But based
on his recommendations I'll go ahead with latex. I'll start the
process and post the results
Another thing I learned is that oil based paint is getting pretty
hard to find. Lowes had just a couple of cans. I wanted a very
bright white for the cabinets rather than just a plain white. That
also helped me decide to go ahead with latex. Also, nowadays all the
oil based paint is labeled that it is to be used only over metal
substrate and only for commercial applications. The paint guy said
it's the same oil-based paint they always sold, they just label it
that way for legal reasons - to discourage homeowners from using it
because they usually don't dispose of waste products proberly.

Ken.
"Ken" wrote in message
...
I'm about to paint my kitchen cabinets. Actually I did it once a
number of years ago. They were finished with varnish or
polyurethane (not sure which). I sanded, etched, and sprayed them
with Zinsser, then with an oil based enamel. They didn't turn out
particularly well or bad for that matter.

So anyway I need to re-do them and I'd like to do a better job than
before. Last time I bought a $100 Wagner airless sprayer.

So this time around I want suggestions. What material and what
equipment. Thanks
Ken

The formulation of oil paint has changed so much because of environmental
issues that it just isn't the product it was years ago. But conversely,
latex/acrylic paints have also changed, and are now much more like the old
oil-based paints. That's why you don't see oil-based paints around much
anymore.

--
nj_dilettante
in the words of the immortal Sgt Schultz:
~~ I know NOTH-THING ~~

On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 17:33:29 -0800, "Pat"
wrote:

| Latex paint can stick to items setting on it for years after its been
| applied. I would shop at a paint store not Lowes. I would make certain I
| had a good sales person and that the paint I purchased was suitable for
| cabinets. Don't rush the dry time. I have never had latex paint work for
| cabinets. If I was to try some today I would give it a through test before
| using it.

Amen. And latex scratches easily. Will not dry hard enough for
cabinets. I painted mine with a brush 25 years ago using primer, and
then oil-based semi-gloss paint, and smoothed it with a flat paint pad
while it was still wet. Came out smooth as glass. I have painted them
only twice since. Three times in 25 years isn't bad! And they look
great.

Here's an idea: how about prepping them well and painting them
carefully with a brush the first time around and using your paint
sprayer the next time? With a solid base coat (or coats) the sprayer
would work well for a second go around.


|
| "Ken" wrote in message
| ...
| Today I purchased a Graco XR7 airless sprayer for about $450. Decided not
| to get a bottom-of-the-line unit since I'll be using it a lot over the
| next 2 years.
|
| The paint salesman said that a good quality Latex paint, mixed with
| Floetrol should give a good finish when applied with the airless sprayer.
| I am somewhat dubious about that - I always considered latex to be a cheap
| imitation of "real" paint (oil based). But based on his recommendations
| I'll go ahead with latex. I'll start the process and post the results
|
| Another thing I learned is that oil based paint is getting pretty hard to
| find. Lowes had just a couple of cans. I wanted a very bright white for
| the cabinets rather than just a plain white. That also helped me decide
| to go ahead with latex. Also, nowadays all the oil based paint is labeled
| that it is to be used only over metal substrate and only for commercial
| applications. The paint guy said it's the same oil-based paint they
| always sold, they just label it that way for legal reasons - to discourage
| homeowners from using it because they usually don't dispose of waste
| products proberly.
|
| Ken.
| "Ken" wrote in message
| ...
| I'm about to paint my kitchen cabinets. Actually I did it once a number
| of years ago. They were finished with varnish or polyurethane (not sure
| which). I sanded, etched, and sprayed them with Zinsser, then with an
| oil based enamel. They didn't turn out particularly well or bad for that
| matter.
|
| So anyway I need to re-do them and I'd like to do a better job than
| before. Last time I bought a $100 Wagner airless sprayer.
|
| So this time around I want suggestions. What material and what
| equipment.
|
| Thanks
| Ken
|
|
|
|
|