My drill motor got wet in a rain, and before I knew it, the chuck is
rusted shut. It's a keyless chuck. I put some liquid wrench on it and
sprayed WD-40, but no joy at present.

Any suggestions to get it unstuck?

--
charles

"Charles Bishop" wrote in message
...

My drill motor got wet in a rain, and before I knew it, the chuck is
rusted shut. It's a keyless chuck. I put some liquid wrench on it and
sprayed WD-40, but no joy at present.

Any suggestions to get it unstuck?


Hit it.

--
charles

"Charles Bishop" wrote in message
...

My drill motor got wet in a rain, and before I knew it, the chuck is
rusted shut. It's a keyless chuck. I put some liquid wrench on it and
sprayed WD-40, but no joy at present.

Any suggestions to get it unstuck?

--
charles

If it's all metal (which I doubt), you could try hitting it with some heat
from a torch. Otherwise, I'd try PB Blaster (similar to Liquid Wrench, but
I think it works better).
Cheers,
cc

There is an electronic rust removal process that is very simple and may
help.

It works like this:

Create a solution of water and baking soda -
I just dump in 3 or 4 heaping tablespoons full into a quart of water..

Find a piece of metal that you don't mind destroying - like a wire coat
hanger (BUT BE SURE that the lacquer is removed) - A large nail or
plain steel wire or a cheap stainless steel spoon would also work.

Affix the POSITIVE cable from a small (10 amp or so) battery charger to
the wire or nail and imerse the wire or nail in the solution of water
and baking soda.

Affix the NEGATIVE cable of the charger to the item to be de-rusted and
imerse it in the same container or solution being careful that it does
not directly contact the positive wire or nail.

Apply power.
Wait.

Hydrogen gas will be formed, so do this in a well ventilated area.

You will notice that the gas bubbles stop forming and the current stops
flowing when the rust is gone - Should be less than 12 hours.

Once the rust is removed, you'll want to wash, dry and oil the chuck.

This is very benign since it is the electrical action rather than harsh
chemicals at work.

good luck.
Phil

philkryder wrote:
There is an electronic rust removal process that is very simple and may
help.

It works like this:

Create a solution of water and baking soda -
I just dump in 3 or 4 heaping tablespoons full into a quart of water..

Find a piece of metal that you don't mind destroying - like a wire coat
hanger (BUT BE SURE that the lacquer is removed) - A large nail or
plain steel wire or a cheap stainless steel spoon would also work.

Affix the POSITIVE cable from a small (10 amp or so) battery charger to
the wire or nail and imerse the wire or nail in the solution of water
and baking soda.

Affix the NEGATIVE cable of the charger to the item to be de-rusted and
imerse it in the same container or solution being careful that it does
not directly contact the positive wire or nail.

Apply power.
Wait.

Hydrogen gas will be formed, so do this in a well ventilated area.

You will notice that the gas bubbles stop forming and the current stops
flowing when the rust is gone - Should be less than 12 hours.

Once the rust is removed, you'll want to wash, dry and oil the chuck.

This is very benign since it is the electrical action rather than harsh
chemicals at work.

good luck.
Phil
Oooh I like that! I worked at a pro camera store and when there was
something we couldn't get apart we'd put it on the degausser and leave
it overnight. A degausser is basicly just a huge coil of wire plugged
into the wall. They were made to erase 1200' rolls of magnetic tape.
I've also seen them for tools. You'd have to contain the part like in
a plastic box because I never saw anything that wasn't completely in
pieces in the morning.
Richard

spudnuty wrote:

Oooh I like that! I worked at a pro camera store and when there was
something we couldn't get apart we'd put it on the degausser and leave
it overnight. A degausser is basicly just a huge coil of wire plugged
into the wall. They were made to erase 1200' rolls of magnetic tape.
I've also seen them for tools. You'd have to contain the part like in
a plastic box because I never saw anything that wasn't completely in
pieces in the morning.
Richard


What????

I assume you're saying that if the item contained ferrous parts the 60
Hz vibration shook everything loose? That's the only explanation I can
think of.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

I assume you're saying that if the item contained ferrous parts the 60
Hz vibration shook everything loose? That's the only explanation I can
think of.

Jeff
Absolutely! The manager of the repair department got the idea because
when we shipped cameras back and forth on jets we always had to go
completely over them because a lot of the screws would loosen, high
frequency vibration.
I have seen lenses that I thought were completely frozen in total
pieces the next morning. Including some that had come apart in parts I
didn't realize they came apart in. Esp Leicas.
Richard

Keyless chucks are useless garbage even before they rust tight.
Remove it and replace it with a keyed chuck. A 3/8" costs around $10.
To remove it, there is a screw down inside of it. Hopefully it's open
enough to get to that screw. Then you got to hold the shaft of the
motor/gears (probably open the drill), and turn the chuck off. If I
remember correctly, the thread is left handed (i may be wrong, it's
been awhile since i changed one).

If you want to try to save it, try filling the chuck with kerosene and
motor oil mixed half and half, and let it soak overnight.

Mark

-----------------

On Sat, 21 Jan 2006 04:00:28 GMT, tt (Charles
Bishop) wrote:


My drill motor got wet in a rain, and before I knew it, the chuck is
rusted shut. It's a keyless chuck. I put some liquid wrench on it and
sprayed WD-40, but no joy at present.

Any suggestions to get it unstuck?