I recently had an electrician come in to run power to a staircase that
was dark. In order to extend the power, he had to cut several circular
holes in the drywall or the ceiling to reach the existing power. He
left behind the holes he cut, so in theory it should be easy to replace
the hole, but I'm struggling with how to patch the holes in the
ceiling.

I tried just using spackle/paste around the edges, but the problem I
ran into was that it was difficult to keep the hole piece flat and
flush with the existing ceiling. How can I patch this effectively?

Many thanks in advance....

--charlie

In article .com,
Charlie wrote:

I tried just using spackle/paste around the edges, but the problem I
ran into was that it was difficult to keep the hole piece flat and
flush with the existing ceiling. How can I patch this effectively?

If I understand correctly... Slide a board (1 x 2 or 1 x 3) into the
hole. Cut a piece of dryeway close to the diameter of the hole. Screw
the patch piece to the backing board. Use some monofilament or strong
thread to pull the board tight so you can drive the screw. You can also
drive screws through the intact ceiling to anchor the board and then
patch over the screws.

Now, finish to match the ceiling.

--
The moral difference between a soldier and a civilian is that the soldier
accepts personal responsibility for the safety of the body politic of which he
is a member. The civilian does not. ‹ Robert A. Heinlein

Hi,

You can get some nylon mesh (tape or square patch, depending upon
how large the holes are) at your local hardware store. Put that on
much like you would do a corner with a very thin layer of spakling
(fill the mesh holes and enough to tape it to the sides) and let it
dry. When it dires, then put a second spacking layer on a little
heavier and then sand it smooth. That works like a charm.


--
Tumbleweed36
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tumbleweed36's Profile: http://www.HomeOutfit.com/member.php?userid=188
View this thread: http://www.HomeOutfit.com/showthread.php?t=64509

In article .ca, Dave
Balderstone wrote:

Cut a piece of dryeway

Typing in a hurry while listening to someone talk to me... I meant
drywall, of course.

--
The moral difference between a soldier and a civilian is that the soldier
accepts personal responsibility for the safety of the body politic of which he
is a member. The civilian does not. ‹ Robert A. Heinlein

"Charlie" wrote in message
oups.com...
I recently had an electrician come in to run power to a staircase that
was dark. In order to extend the power, he had to cut several circular
holes in the drywall or the ceiling to reach the existing power. He
left behind the holes he cut, so in theory it should be easy to replace
the hole, but I'm struggling with how to patch the holes in the
ceiling.

I tried just using spackle/paste around the edges, but the problem I
ran into was that it was difficult to keep the hole piece flat and
flush with the existing ceiling. How can I patch this effectively?

Many thanks in advance....

--charlie


Send this link to your electrician so he knows how to make it easy for the
next time: http://www.wd40jobsite.com/secret_de...748&c=1&q=&s=1

Like Dave suggested you can probably slide a 1" x 3" or wider piece of wood
up there and anchor it with some drywall screws. Butter the back of the
drywall pieces with a thin layer of joint compound where they will contact
the wood. Joint compound has some good adhesive qualities. Push the pieces
into the opening and gently secure with drywall screws. Let this dry a day
and then go back and tape over the seams and apply one coat of joint
compound. Let it dry another day and add another layer of joint compound
using a bigger knife to finish. You will need to feather it out over a wide
span so that it doesn't look like a lump. Use a damp sponge to smooth it
out when it is dry. You may need 3 or more coats of joint compound to get
it looking good. Let it dry in between coats. I like to sponge in between
coats just to keep it smooth.


John Grabowski
http://www.mrelectrician.tv

I was watching Ask This Old House show and they told of a new product
where you put these clips with drywall screws on the side of the hole.
You then fasten the cut out piece into this clip which eliminates the
need for a back board. I saw this same kit in Home Depot in the drywall
section.

Joey


Charlie wrote:
I recently had an electrician come in to run power to a staircase that
was dark. In order to extend the power, he had to cut several circular
holes in the drywall or the ceiling to reach the existing power. He
left behind the holes he cut, so in theory it should be easy to replace
the hole, but I'm struggling with how to patch the holes in the
ceiling.

I tried just using spackle/paste around the edges, but the problem I
ran into was that it was difficult to keep the hole piece flat and
flush with the existing ceiling. How can I patch this effectively?

Many thanks in advance....

--charlie

Thanks so much for the suggestions so far. To be clear, the holes are
only about 3-4" in diameter, but let me recap to make sure I understand
the suggestions.

Take a narrow, wide piece of wood and position over the hole(s). Secure
in place (through the ceiling?) with drywall screws. Adhere the filler
pieces to the wood with joint compound. (Is securing the piece with
drywall screws necessary for such a small piece?)

Let dry. Tape over seams and apply joint compound. Let dry. Apply
another layer of joint compound. Let dry. Sand, sponge, smooth to get a
blended effect. Repeat as necessary.

To address Joey's suggestion clips - it sounds like an interesting
idea, although I'm worried about the clip splitting the drywall around
the edges of the hole. I'll stop by Home Depot and ask them about it,
though, as I'll need to get some tape and adhesive.

Thanks again to everyone's help - I'm breaking new ground here patching
my ceiling. :-)

--charlie

Joey those clips sound nice and John I like the 45º tip too. I've
always done this with the front and back thin stick method or sometimes
if the hole is small I twist drywall screws in the cut to jam the piece
in. I find that the trick is to bevel the edges of the cut to get rid
of the furry cut edges of drywall paper. Then the compound can be
smoothed easier and the job's often done in 2 or 3 passes. It's always
a good idea to save those pieces. Making up new ones of the right
thickness and shape can be a pain.
Richar

On 19 Dec 2005 17:20:12 -0800, "Charlie"
wrote:

I recently had an electrician come in to run power to a staircase that
was dark. In order to extend the power, he had to cut several circular
holes in the drywall or the ceiling to reach the existing power. He
left behind the holes he cut,

That's good. Some people take the holes with them.

so in theory it should be easy to replace
the hole, but I'm struggling with how to patch the holes in the
ceiling.

I tried just using spackle/paste around the edges, but the problem I
ran into was that it was difficult to keep the hole piece flat and
flush with the existing ceiling. How can I patch this effectively?

Home depot sells for not much money, a dollar or two for 2 or 3 or so
for 4, a set of metal clips for this very purpose. After the joint
ismostly patched, the metal part at the front bends back and forth and
breaks off. Well you have to bend it. It doesn't just bend by itself.

I haven't used them yet, but they look good.

I bought a card's worth in Dallas and saw them in Baltimore also.

Many thanks in advance....

--charlie


Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 20:46:18 -0500, "John Grabowski"
wrote:



Send this link to your electrician so he knows how to make it easy for the
next time: http://www.wd40jobsite.com/secret_de...748&c=1&q=&s=1

Hey thanks. Just in time for me, I have to patch a leak caused hole
in my ceiling.

It's sort of obvious aftter you read it, but most stuff is obvious
AFTER someone tells you how.

John Grabowski
http://www.mrelectrician.tv


Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

"Charlie" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks so much for the suggestions so far. To be clear, the holes are
only about 3-4" in diameter, but let me recap to make sure I understand
the suggestions.


For such small holes you can use wood lath pieces approximately 7" - 8"
long. You can put a temporary drywall screw in the middle to position the
wood and hold it in place while you secure it using drywall screws through
the drywall.




Take a narrow, wide piece of wood and position over the hole(s). Secure
in place (through the ceiling?) with drywall screws. Adhere the filler
pieces to the wood with joint compound. (Is securing the piece with
drywall screws necessary for such a small piece?)


I suggest at least one drywall screw to hold the piece in place.



Let dry. Tape over seams and apply joint compound. Let dry. Apply
another layer of joint compound. Let dry. Sand, sponge, smooth to get a
blended effect. Repeat as necessary.

To address Joey's suggestion clips - it sounds like an interesting
idea, although I'm worried about the clip splitting the drywall around
the edges of the hole. I'll stop by Home Depot and ask them about it,
though, as I'll need to get some tape and adhesive.

Thanks again to everyone's help - I'm breaking new ground here patching


Take your time. Don't try to accomplish too much at once. Use thin coats
of joint compound.


my ceiling. :-)

--charlie

In article .com, "Charlie" wrote:
I recently had an electrician come in to run power to a staircase that
was dark. In order to extend the power, he had to cut several circular
holes in the drywall or the ceiling to reach the existing power. He
left behind the holes he cut, so in theory it should be easy to replace
the hole, but I'm struggling with how to patch the holes in the
ceiling.

I tried just using spackle/paste around the edges, but the problem I
ran into was that it was difficult to keep the hole piece flat and
flush with the existing ceiling. How can I patch this effectively?

*You* don't. It's the electrician's responsibility.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Charlie wrote:

Many thanks in advance....

--charlie

everyone is assuming you know what they mean about putting a backing up
there

poke a backing through the hole, and when you let go it is covering the
hole...
(its just floating over the hole as you look up) it doesnt fall because
it is past the ceiling but larger than the hole...

put a screw on each side. screws go through the ceiling, and of course
into the backing
this will suck the backing towards you.

if you can't get screw started into backing...put a temporary screw in
the center of the backing...(looks like a backing pop)...this might
give you enough counter pressure
to start the other two screws. If that is not enough (pending on the
backing you might use)
then put a toggle bolt through the center of the backing...this will
give you plenty of counter pressure...then unscrew the toggle bolt (of
course you will never see the nut again)
EVER!...

you can also put money in the walls like this...

Thanks John, that 45* trick is great. Can't imagine how I haven't
thought of that before, or ever seen it before. I have developped lots
of tricks, but not that one. I'm about 3/4 of the way through rewiring
an entire (small) house, and I really wish I'd seen that tip four years
ago, but at least I will use that on the last bedroom, the dining room,
and the remaining closet.

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 19:35:05 -0600, Dave Balderstone
wrote:

In article .ca, Dave
Balderstone wrote:

Cut a piece of dryeway

Typing in a hurry while listening to someone talk to me... I meant
drywall, of course.

I thought it was "drywall", but I still wondered if you had something
else, that I hadn't heard of.

See http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/i...mallpatch.shtm
"Charlie" wrote in message
oups.com...
I recently had an electrician come in to run power to a staircase that
was dark. In order to extend the power, he had to cut several circular
holes in the drywall or the ceiling to reach the existing power. He
left behind the holes he cut, so in theory it should be easy to replace
the hole, but I'm struggling with how to patch the holes in the
ceiling.

I tried just using spackle/paste around the edges, but the problem I
ran into was that it was difficult to keep the hole piece flat and
flush with the existing ceiling. How can I patch this effectively?

Many thanks in advance....

--charlie

You guys are overcompilcating this, quite a bit. I have done this
several times, and if you use enough spackling to glue in the sheetrock
hole it will stay in place without any metal clips. The trick is not
to even try to get it even (flush), you want slightly in, like 1/16th
or something like that. Then after it dries you can fill in the 1/16
and sand until it's flush with the rest.

As so many others have said, use a backer piece of wood. I find a paint
stirrer with Liquid Nails sufficient. I also get good results from
taking the shaft of a screwdriver and making the edge of the hope
concave, since cutting usually splays it out and makes rough edges.

I came up with that tip about 18 years ago working on a shopping center. We
had to make several access holes and the drywall guys were quite annoyed
about it. When they saw how easy it was for them to fix the holes they
actually thanked me. It was great that WD-40 made a video to demonstrate it
after I suggested the idea to their forum. They gave me a WD-40 tool belt
for that suggestion.


"kevin" wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks John, that 45* trick is great. Can't imagine how I haven't
thought of that before, or ever seen it before. I have developped lots
of tricks, but not that one. I'm about 3/4 of the way through rewiring
an entire (small) house, and I really wish I'd seen that tip four years
ago, but at least I will use that on the last bedroom, the dining room,
and the remaining closet.

John Grabowski wrote:

For such small holes you can use wood lath pieces approximately 7" - 8"
long. You can put a temporary drywall screw in the middle to position the
wood and hold it in place while you secure it using drywall screws through
the drywall.


i am lost

I can't picture your technic
how will this fix the drywall

a 7-8" lath piece makes me think it's round

you mean like a paint stirrer to put inside the hole?

"chickenwing" wrote in message
oups.com...

John Grabowski wrote:

For such small holes you can use wood lath pieces approximately 7" - 8"
long. You can put a temporary drywall screw in the middle to position
the
wood and hold it in place while you secure it using drywall screws
through
the drywall.


i am lost

I can't picture your technic
how will this fix the drywall

a 7-8" lath piece makes me think it's round

you mean like a paint stirrer to put inside the hole?

Go to the big box and get the 'drywall patching DIY' pamphlet, or spend 15
bucks for the DIY drywall book. In this case, pictures are worth 1000 words,
and it will quickly become clear. Basically, the lathe or board inside the
wall acts like a splint, and holds the plug in place till the joint compound
sets. Fastening it TO the drywall is the hard part. If you don't mind doing
the patching in several sessions, you can even put the stick on the outside,
held in place with screws. Patch the cracks that are exposed, and leave it
to dry several days. Then ever so gently, remove the screws, and patch the
rest. That makes for a weak patch, though, since only the mud'n'tape is
holding it in place. Alternative is to make hole bigger, stud to stud (or
joist to joist), and nail the patch in place. You can usually buy a broken
sheet of drywall for a couple bucks, enough for several patches. (or just
pull it out of the trash dumpster at a nearby jobsite, if one is handy.)

aem sends...

ameijers wrote:

Go to the big box and get the 'drywall patching DIY' pamphlet, or spend 15
bucks for the DIY drywall book. In this case, pictures are worth 1000 words,
and it will quickly become clear. Basically, the lathe or board inside the
wall acts like a splint, and holds the plug in place till the joint compound
sets.

thank you for that lecture

thats the kind of eager beaver I like to see

I don't need no more education is why i am so obtuse today

I have done same...for a ceiling, I make a toothpick sandwhich with two
circles..
the toothpics hang out enough to hold filler circle still

for walls, you could just butter the edges and put it in with a screw
once it's lined up, just let it hang there, you know don't booger it up