Hi Gang
Can schedule 40 pvc pipe be used for a dryer vent? AND does anyone know of
a dryer vent hood that actually CLOSES after the dryer goes off? Previous
owner installed one without any kind of damper. No wonder cold air is
pouring into the basement.
Thanks,
Chas

I have a vent I got at menards I forgot the name but it closes with a
3" plastic pipe cap lowering when there is no airflow, it works well. It
is large apx 9x7"x7"

You surely haven't been to your local hardware store or you would know
dryer vents have auto closers

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 09:05:29 -0500, "Chas12"
wrote:

Hi Gang
Can schedule 40 pvc pipe be used for a dryer vent? AND does anyone know of
a dryer vent hood that actually CLOSES after the dryer goes off? Previous
owner installed one without any kind of damper. No wonder cold air is
pouring into the basement.
Thanks,
Chas

Don't know about pipe, but I've seen vents to the outside with louvers
that open when there is output and close when it stops. I wouldthink
Sears or HomeDepot or any appliance store would have this.

I don't have this, but I have an indoor/outdoor box, and when I have
set if for indoors, which is any time cold enough that I might run
the furnace, the door inside the box goes up and closes off the duct
to the outside vent. It has a removable lint screen to keep lint from
blowing around the basement.

When the door is down, it closes off the output to the inside of the
house and routes everything the outside. No lint screen in that
direction but there is one in the dryer itself.

I think this all works pretty well, but I suppose I should check if
cold air is leaking in. (I'm around there a lot however and haven't
notcied any.).


Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

I just put one of these in a clients kitchen vent:
http://www.batticdoor.com/dryerventseal.html
She had one of those louver type vents but it leaked like crazy. She
had rags stuffed in the louvers and every time she used the stove she
had to run outside and pull out the rags, replacing them after.
The unit works great and the people were very nice to deal with. She
thinks it looks cool and needless to say is very happy. We actually
ordered 2 and the other one is waiting to go on her dryer vent. If you
order 4 shipping is free.
RIchard

That is it, www.batticdoor.com louvers wont seal anything ,
batticdoor closes and drops down an inch for a fairly positive seal.
Louvers leak...Imaging taking 3" pvc vertical, and dropping a closed
31/6" cap on it, it seals, when dryer blows air pressure raises it, non
powered louvers can`t ever provide a positive seal of airflow. and dryer
types ive seen are cheap by design and build.

I have no idea why people reply to innocent questions in this manner.
However, if you paid attention to my question you might have perceived that
it was sparked by frustration with all of the cheap closers available that
either get stuck in the open position, or never work as advertised. The fact
is the previous owner is an engineer, and why he would have installed a
non-closing vent is beyond my comprehesion.

wrote in message
ups.com...
You surely haven't been to your local hardware store or you would know
dryer vents have auto closers

I had a louver one on my old house, and it got clogged with lint often.
Chas
"mm" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 09:05:29 -0500, "Chas12"
wrote:

Hi Gang
Can schedule 40 pvc pipe be used for a dryer vent? AND does anyone know
of
a dryer vent hood that actually CLOSES after the dryer goes off? Previous
owner installed one without any kind of damper. No wonder cold air is
pouring into the basement.
Thanks,
Chas

Don't know about pipe, but I've seen vents to the outside with louvers
that open when there is output and close when it stops. I wouldthink
Sears or HomeDepot or any appliance store would have this.

I don't have this, but I have an indoor/outdoor box, and when I have
set if for indoors, which is any time cold enough that I might run
the furnace, the door inside the box goes up and closes off the duct
to the outside vent. It has a removable lint screen to keep lint from
blowing around the basement.

When the door is down, it closes off the output to the inside of the
house and routes everything the outside. No lint screen in that
direction but there is one in the dryer itself.

I think this all works pretty well, but I suppose I should check if
cold air is leaking in. (I'm around there a lot however and haven't
notcied any.).


Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

Yup, that's the one I'm looking for!
Chas
wrote in message
oups.com...
I just put one of these in a clients kitchen vent:
http://www.batticdoor.com/dryerventseal.html
She had one of those louver type vents but it leaked like crazy. She
had rags stuffed in the louvers and every time she used the stove she
had to run outside and pull out the rags, replacing them after.
The unit works great and the people were very nice to deal with. She
thinks it looks cool and needless to say is very happy. We actually
ordered 2 and the other one is waiting to go on her dryer vent. If you
order 4 shipping is free.
RIchard

"Chas12" wrote:

I have no idea why people reply to innocent questions in this manner.
However, if you paid attention to my question you might have perceived that
it was sparked by frustration with all of the cheap closers available that
either get stuck in the open position, or never work as advertised. The fact
is the previous owner is an engineer, and why he would have installed a
non-closing vent is beyond my comprehesion.

Engineers don't have any great knowledge outside of their specialty.

Unless the guy was familiar with building and construction, he wouldn't
know what to do. Or the teenager working at the box store said "this
will work", and he didn't know anybetter.

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 09:05:29 -0500, "Chas12"
wrote:

Hi Gang
Can schedule 40 pvc pipe be used for a dryer vent? AND does anyone know of
a dryer vent hood that actually CLOSES after the dryer goes off? Previous
owner installed one without any kind of damper. No wonder cold air is
pouring into the basement.
Thanks,
Chas


PVC can be used, although metal piping is recommended. Most dryer
hoods will close properly if cleaned regularly.

Chas12 wrote:
I have no idea why people reply to innocent questions in this manner.

I've seen louvered type that will actually close, or a vynal type with
flap
the metal ones stop working after lint gets into the hinges.

tape the wall up and stick the end of the dryer vent hose end down into
a 5 gallon bucket of water, put a brick on it to hold it down in there.
free lint free heat

One of my best clients is a former professor of mechanical engineering.
Most of his house repairs look like Rube Goldberg stuff. It just
reinforces my conviction that profs teach but don't necessarily do. I
get to joke a lot with him. Y'know stuff like, "and of course that
would follow from the 3rd law of thermodynamics" or "perhaps if we
looked at this in a relativistic way"
Richard

I never heard of that one! Very interesting, but does the dryer have enough
pressure to push the air thru the water?
Also, won't that pump a LOT of humidity into the basement?
Chas

"chickenwing" wrote in message
oups.com...

Chas12 wrote:
I have no idea why people reply to innocent questions in this manner.

I've seen louvered type that will actually close, or a vynal type with
flap
the metal ones stop working after lint gets into the hinges.

tape the wall up and stick the end of the dryer vent hose end down into
a 5 gallon bucket of water, put a brick on it to hold it down in there.
free lint free heat

"Chas12" wrote in message
...
I never heard of that one! Very interesting, but does the dryer have
enough pressure to push the air thru the water?
Also, won't that pump a LOT of humidity into the basement?
Chas


It's called a "dryer bubbler" vent.













"chickenwing" wrote in message
oups.com...

Chas12 wrote:
I have no idea why people reply to innocent questions in this manner.

I've seen louvered type that will actually close, or a vynal type with
flap
the metal ones stop working after lint gets into the hinges.

tape the wall up and stick the end of the dryer vent hose end down into
a 5 gallon bucket of water, put a brick on it to hold it down in there.
free lint free heat

Chas12 wrote:
I never heard of that one! Very interesting, but does the dryer have enough
pressure to push the air thru the water?
Also, won't that pump a LOT of humidity into the basement?
Chas

yes it will, humidity is not bad, especially during winter which is dry

you just have to imagine how much water is in a load of clothes.
or...just look at a hot shower that's alot of humidity too

humidity can bring the temperature up, or at least make it feel warmer

if the dry-wall starts falling off, yeah, I'd say that's too much
moisture

how much water is in a load of washed clothes? mmm, a quart and a 1/2?
that's not bad...

"Chas12" wrote in message
...
I never heard of that one! Very interesting, but does the dryer have
enough pressure to push the air thru the water?
Also, won't that pump a LOT of humidity into the basement?
Chas

"chickenwing" wrote in message
oups.com...

Chas12 wrote:
I have no idea why people reply to innocent questions in this manner.

I've seen louvered type that will actually close, or a vynal type with
flap
the metal ones stop working after lint gets into the hinges.

tape the wall up and stick the end of the dryer vent hose end down into
a 5 gallon bucket of water, put a brick on it to hold it down in there.
free lint free heat




ITs not free heat, nor humidity,

Thats a waste of your time, and effort. Run the dryer vent like it should
be, with metal duct and get a decent termination cap for it and be done with
it.
If you want humidity in the home, get a humidifier installed on your
furnace. Its called RELATIVE humidity for a reason.

And while moister air will indeed hold more heat, using your dryer to get
teh sometimes blast of it is wrong.

CBHVAC wrote:

ITs not free heat, nor humidity,

you goin be drying the clothes anyway, putting the heat outside!

what are you thinking!

And while moister air will indeed hold more heat, using your dryer to get
teh sometimes blast of it is wrong.

not if your drying clothes

yure just acting like this cause you waste all the warm moist air.

just keep fooling yourself

Why bring fumes of burnt Ng gas in the house, electric ok but at the
cost of electricity , getting Ng is cheaper.

Not *all* engineers are like this.

*grumble grumble dam stereotypes grumble grumble*

-Dave

"m Ransley" wrote in message
...
Why bring fumes of burnt Ng gas in the house, electric ok but at the
cost of electricity , getting Ng is cheaper.


true there! that would require a charcoal filter or something

Iiii just think it's too much heat to let outside.

I also think it should be worth the effort, meaning, if you have 2 loads of
clothes a day, then I'd say it's justified to capture the heat. why not. but
for the summer? I can't think of anything useful for the heat, i'd want that
vented outside.

OK gang, no more fighting! The new cap is installed and sealed. But now I
found a bunch of air leaks near the foundation!!
Chas

It is amazing to me how people who know nothing about HVAC have such
strong opinions concerning goofy devices that affect the air in their
houses. Yes, the dryer vent diverter will add heat to your house. It
will also add a lot of moisture in a small space, which can cause
problems, like mold. If you exhaust the dryer into a large room in a
large house, probably OK. But there is no control on the dryer to
detect when you get too much humidity in your house. You find out when
the wallpaper starts peeling or the inside of the windows sweat.

If it is a gas dryer, you are also adding CO2. Some CO will also be
added, which can be dangerous in concentrations over 5 PPM.

Unless you have instruments constantly measuring these things, qith
alarms for high concentrations, I do not suggest doing it.

OP please note: PVC dryer exhaust duct violates codes in most areas.
However in our area they allow it ONLY if it is burried in a concrete
slab. The inspectors allow it but the code does not. (Inspector wins).

Stretch

Chas12 wrote:
OK gang, no more fighting! The new cap is installed and sealed. But now I
found a bunch of air leaks near the foundation!!
Chas

now you wish you had that extra heat that you've successfully managed
to pipe outside

"chickenwing" wrote in message
ups.com...

CBHVAC wrote:

ITs not free heat, nor humidity,

you goin be drying the clothes anyway, putting the heat outside!

what are you thinking!

And while moister air will indeed hold more heat, using your dryer to get
teh sometimes blast of it is wrong.

not if your drying clothes

yure just acting like this cause you waste all the warm moist air.

just keep fooling yourself


Nah....you keep fooling yourself. I like it when people do that and go to
sell their home later...

Ive got pics of one that the people did that....amazing. Foolish...

BTW..I can afford to run my dryer.

exactly.
"chickenwing" wrote in message
oups.com...

Chas12 wrote:
OK gang, no more fighting! The new cap is installed and sealed. But now I
found a bunch of air leaks near the foundation!!
Chas

now you wish you had that extra heat that you've successfully managed
to pipe outside

Thanks, I will stick with rigid sheet metal when I do it.
Chas
"Stretch" wrote in message
oups.com...
It is amazing to me how people who know nothing about HVAC have such
strong opinions concerning goofy devices that affect the air in their
houses. Yes, the dryer vent diverter will add heat to your house. It
will also add a lot of moisture in a small space, which can cause
problems, like mold. If you exhaust the dryer into a large room in a
large house, probably OK. But there is no control on the dryer to
detect when you get too much humidity in your house. You find out when
the wallpaper starts peeling or the inside of the windows sweat.

If it is a gas dryer, you are also adding CO2. Some CO will also be
added, which can be dangerous in concentrations over 5 PPM.

Unless you have instruments constantly measuring these things, qith
alarms for high concentrations, I do not suggest doing it.

OP please note: PVC dryer exhaust duct violates codes in most areas.
However in our area they allow it ONLY if it is burried in a concrete
slab. The inspectors allow it but the code does not. (Inspector wins).

Stretch

"Chas12" wrote in message
...
Thanks, I will stick with rigid sheet metal when I do it.
Chas

NO SCREWS.
Only metal tape and mastic.


"Stretch" wrote in message
oups.com...
It is amazing to me how people who know nothing about HVAC have such
strong opinions concerning goofy devices that affect the air in their
houses. Yes, the dryer vent diverter will add heat to your house. It
will also add a lot of moisture in a small space, which can cause
problems, like mold. If you exhaust the dryer into a large room in a
large house, probably OK. But there is no control on the dryer to
detect when you get too much humidity in your house. You find out when
the wallpaper starts peeling or the inside of the windows sweat.

If it is a gas dryer, you are also adding CO2. Some CO will also be
added, which can be dangerous in concentrations over 5 PPM.

Unless you have instruments constantly measuring these things, qith
alarms for high concentrations, I do not suggest doing it.

OP please note: PVC dryer exhaust duct violates codes in most areas.
However in our area they allow it ONLY if it is burried in a concrete
slab. The inspectors allow it but the code does not. (Inspector wins).

Stretch

no screws? How come?

Stretch wrote:
It is amazing to me how people who know nothing about HVAC have such
strong opinions concerning goofy devices that affect the air in their
houses. Yes, the dryer vent diverter will add heat to your house. It
will also add a lot of moisture in a small space, which can cause
problems, like mold. If you exhaust the dryer into a large room in a
large house, probably OK. But there is no control on the dryer to
detect when you get too much humidity in your house. You find out when
the wallpaper starts peeling or the inside of the windows sweat.


that's the dumbest thing i've ever heard

so ****ing throw a fan in there

moisture is removed from hot air as it passes through the water first
it's just a basic fundamental fact of a natural process

keep on wasting heat Streetch

Even if you did stop water vapor from being in the exuast with the
bucket idea, which I dought, you are adding poison from burnt Ng, Co,
mercaptain, sulfer etc. Indoor air can be bad enough in tight houses
without adding more junk to breath.

m Ransley wrote:
Even if you did stop water vapor from being in the exuast with the
bucket idea, which I dought, you are adding poison from burnt Ng, Co,
mercaptain, sulfer etc. Indoor air can be bad enough in tight houses
without adding more junk to breath.

mine is vented outside

if I used it alot I would keep it in the house
I don't wanna change the water or reload some quality air device filter

"Chas12" wrote in message
...
no screws? How come?



Its not code in most areas, because they catch and build up lint.