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wrote:
I'm sorry, I didn't mention that I removed a row of tiles (about 8)
myself because the original installer used the wrong size strip between
the kitchen tile and great room soon-to-be rug. That's why I recalled
that there must be 6/10 per sq. foot, because for each 20"x20" tile,
there was usually 2 rows of 3 screws, with some rows having an
additional 2 screws, maybe to coincide with the end of the board.

20" tile is some pretty big stuff. You need a stiffer floor with less
movement for bigger tile. I think you're overestimating the number of
screws. If we use an average of 8 screws per tile, each tile being
~2.75 SF, that's about 3 screws/SF in your installation.

This from the James Hardie web site:

3. Attach Hardibacker cement board to subfloor
· Apply a supporting bed of mortar or modified thinset to subfloor
using a 1/4"
square-notched trowel.
· Embed Hardibacker cement board firmly and evenly in the wet mortar.
· Use the fastener pattern as a guide. Fasten Hardibacker cement
board
with specified nails or screws (as listed in "Materials Required")
every
8" over the entire surface. Keep fasteners 3/8" from sheet edges
and 2" in from sheet corners.

The screw spacing your first guy used seems to conform to Hardie's
instructions for installations _with_ embedment in thinset or mortar.
So there's an obvious shortage of fasteners without the thinset. That
coupled with the large tile would keep me up at night also.

I can't tell you what to do, but I'll tell you what I'd do. I'd get
something in writing from Hardie's tech support voiding your warranty
due to the installation of their product. I'd then rip out the faulty
installation taking pictures/video of what exactly you are removing. I
lay a ruler down when I take the picture so someone can see the spacing
of the fasteners. I would get separate quotes in writing from the new
tile guy for demolition of the existing and installation of new
backerboard and tile.

I might consider getting a non-involved tile guy to give me quotes as
well. Tell him exactly what you are doing and why. I would offer to
pay the guy for the quotes. This would offset claims that your new
tile guy was inflating his prices.

From there you contact the original guy and give him an opportunity to
pay for the new installation only. Explain that you are trying to work
this out fairly, so, for a short period, you will not be looking for
money for the demolition. It will cost you some effort to do it
yourself, but you seem to have gotten a handle on how to do the removal
pretty quickly. If he doesn't take you up on the offer, you will then
have to go through either a contracting licensing board, consumer
affairs or whomever regulates contractors in your neck of the woods.
If that doesn't get you anywhere, it will end up in court. In my state
an incorporated company is required to be represented by a lawyer in
small claims court. That would work in your favor if it comes to that
and the small claims $ limit is within the general range of what you'd
be looking to recoup.

R

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