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#1
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Sheet rock repair
Two weeks ago, or was it three, we had record rain fall in the north
east. It rained like 9 consecutive days. One Saturday morning, I woke up discovering the kitchen floor dripping wet in my 30 some year old split in New Jersey. I poked a hole into the sheet rock, about two gallons of rain water came pouring down into the bucket I placed below. Cutiing up the sheet rock to a big enough hole to look, I found the source of leak is from the chimney to roof flashing. So I went to Home Depot and bought some flashing pieces, sheet metal screws and roofing adhesive and took care of the leake the same day. I also took the opportunity to add insulation to the part of the attic where the leak occurred. This part is normally not accessible. I also wanted to put a sky light up but the wife didn't like the idea. I was lucky, the area of sheet rock which sustained water damage is a full size 4x8. So now the area is all sealed up with batt insulation waiting for the sheet rock to go up. So what is the question? The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do? |
#2
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Sheet rock repair
You'll probably be the only one to notice the imperfection. Until it
leaks again. Tom |
#3
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Sheet rock repair
The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do? Silly. Can't you cut a bit extra and buy an extra sheet of drywall or get a 4x10 instead of 4x8 drywall? |
#4
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Sheet rock repair
4x8 5/8" sheetrock
"yaofeng" wrote in message ups.com... Two weeks ago, or was it three, we had record rain fall in the north east. It rained like 9 consecutive days. One Saturday morning, I woke up discovering the kitchen floor dripping wet in my 30 some year old split in New Jersey. I poked a hole into the sheet rock, about two gallons of rain water came pouring down into the bucket I placed below. Cutiing up the sheet rock to a big enough hole to look, I found the source of leak is from the chimney to roof flashing. So I went to Home Depot and bought some flashing pieces, sheet metal screws and roofing adhesive and took care of the leake the same day. I also took the opportunity to add insulation to the part of the attic where the leak occurred. This part is normally not accessible. I also wanted to put a sky light up but the wife didn't like the idea. I was lucky, the area of sheet rock which sustained water damage is a full size 4x8. So now the area is all sealed up with batt insulation waiting for the sheet rock to go up. So what is the question? The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do? |
#5
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Sheet rock repair
You should "float" out the seam with joint compound in several coats.
It will spread out the imperfection. |
#6
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Sheet rock repair
Jack wrote: 4x8 5/8" sheetrock "yaofeng" wrote in message ups.com... Two weeks ago, or was it three, we had record rain fall in the north east. It rained like 9 consecutive days. One Saturday morning, I woke up discovering the kitchen floor dripping wet in my 30 some year old split in New Jersey. I poked a hole into the sheet rock, about two gallons of rain water came pouring down into the bucket I placed below. Cutiing up the sheet rock to a big enough hole to look, I found the source of leak is from the chimney to roof flashing. So I went to Home Depot and bought some flashing pieces, sheet metal screws and roofing adhesive and took care of the leake the same day. I also took the opportunity to add insulation to the part of the attic where the leak occurred. This part is normally not accessible. I also wanted to put a sky light up but the wife didn't like the idea. I was lucky, the area of sheet rock which sustained water damage is a full size 4x8. So now the area is all sealed up with batt insulation waiting for the sheet rock to go up. So what is the question? The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do? I have to check. But I think existing is 5/8". |
#7
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Sheet rock repair
try sanding a bevel in the edge of the old cieling so you have a place to
put the new tape. "yaofeng" wrote in message ups.com... Two weeks ago, or was it three, we had record rain fall in the north east. It rained like 9 consecutive days. One Saturday morning, I woke up discovering the kitchen floor dripping wet in my 30 some year old split in New Jersey. I poked a hole into the sheet rock, about two gallons of rain water came pouring down into the bucket I placed below. Cutiing up the sheet rock to a big enough hole to look, I found the source of leak is from the chimney to roof flashing. So I went to Home Depot and bought some flashing pieces, sheet metal screws and roofing adhesive and took care of the leake the same day. I also took the opportunity to add insulation to the part of the attic where the leak occurred. This part is normally not accessible. I also wanted to put a sky light up but the wife didn't like the idea. I was lucky, the area of sheet rock which sustained water damage is a full size 4x8. So now the area is all sealed up with batt insulation waiting for the sheet rock to go up. So what is the question? The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do? |
#8
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Sheet rock repair
PipeDown wrote: try sanding a bevel in the edge of the old cieling so you have a place to put the new tape. "yaofeng" wrote in message ups.com... Two weeks ago, or was it three, we had record rain fall in the north east. It rained like 9 consecutive days. One Saturday morning, I woke up discovering the kitchen floor dripping wet in my 30 some year old split in New Jersey. I poked a hole into the sheet rock, about two gallons of rain water came pouring down into the bucket I placed below. Cutiing up the sheet rock to a big enough hole to look, I found the source of leak is from the chimney to roof flashing. So I went to Home Depot and bought some flashing pieces, sheet metal screws and roofing adhesive and took care of the leake the same day. I also took the opportunity to add insulation to the part of the attic where the leak occurred. This part is normally not accessible. I also wanted to put a sky light up but the wife didn't like the idea. I was lucky, the area of sheet rock which sustained water damage is a full size 4x8. So now the area is all sealed up with batt insulation waiting for the sheet rock to go up. So what is the question? The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do? Yes. That's the idea I am looking for. Thanks. Existing aheet rock is 5/8", BTW. |
#9
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Sheet rock repair
It would probably be easier to keep wetting the joint compond at the tape until it softens enough to remove. It really doesn't take long to soak it "soft". Otherwise, you can feather the joints out twice as wide as existing and loose the hump that way. -- hwm54112 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ hwm54112's Profile: http://www.homeplot.com/member.php?userid=127 View this thread: http://www.homeplot.com/showthread.php?t=60373 |
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