Two weeks ago, or was it three, we had record rain fall in the north
east. It rained like 9 consecutive days.

One Saturday morning, I woke up discovering the kitchen floor dripping
wet in my 30 some year old split in New Jersey. I poked a hole into
the sheet rock, about two gallons of rain water came pouring down into
the bucket I placed below. Cutiing up the sheet rock to a big enough
hole to look, I found the source of leak is from the chimney to roof
flashing. So I went to Home Depot and bought some flashing pieces,
sheet metal screws and roofing adhesive and took care of the leake the
same day.

I also took the opportunity to add insulation to the part of the attic
where the leak occurred. This part is normally not accessible. I also
wanted to put a sky light up but the wife didn't like the idea.

I was lucky, the area of sheet rock which sustained water damage is a
full size 4x8. So now the area is all sealed up with batt insulation
waiting for the sheet rock to go up.

So what is the question?

The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found
the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet
goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it
thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look
good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do?

You'll probably be the only one to notice the imperfection. Until it
leaks again. Tom

The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found
the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet
goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it
thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look
good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do?


Silly. Can't you cut a bit extra and buy an extra sheet of drywall or
get a 4x10 instead of 4x8 drywall?

4x8 5/8" sheetrock

"yaofeng" wrote in message
ups.com...
Two weeks ago, or was it three, we had record rain fall in the north
east. It rained like 9 consecutive days.

One Saturday morning, I woke up discovering the kitchen floor dripping
wet in my 30 some year old split in New Jersey. I poked a hole into
the sheet rock, about two gallons of rain water came pouring down into
the bucket I placed below. Cutiing up the sheet rock to a big enough
hole to look, I found the source of leak is from the chimney to roof
flashing. So I went to Home Depot and bought some flashing pieces,
sheet metal screws and roofing adhesive and took care of the leake the
same day.

I also took the opportunity to add insulation to the part of the attic
where the leak occurred. This part is normally not accessible. I also
wanted to put a sky light up but the wife didn't like the idea.

I was lucky, the area of sheet rock which sustained water damage is a
full size 4x8. So now the area is all sealed up with batt insulation
waiting for the sheet rock to go up.

So what is the question?

The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found
the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet
goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it
thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look
good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do?

You should "float" out the seam with joint compound in several coats.
It will spread out the imperfection.

Jack wrote:
4x8 5/8" sheetrock

"yaofeng" wrote in message
ups.com...
Two weeks ago, or was it three, we had record rain fall in the north
east. It rained like 9 consecutive days.

One Saturday morning, I woke up discovering the kitchen floor dripping
wet in my 30 some year old split in New Jersey. I poked a hole into
the sheet rock, about two gallons of rain water came pouring down into
the bucket I placed below. Cutiing up the sheet rock to a big enough
hole to look, I found the source of leak is from the chimney to roof
flashing. So I went to Home Depot and bought some flashing pieces,
sheet metal screws and roofing adhesive and took care of the leake the
same day.

I also took the opportunity to add insulation to the part of the attic
where the leak occurred. This part is normally not accessible. I also
wanted to put a sky light up but the wife didn't like the idea.

I was lucky, the area of sheet rock which sustained water damage is a
full size 4x8. So now the area is all sealed up with batt insulation
waiting for the sheet rock to go up.

So what is the question?

The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found
the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet
goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it
thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look
good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do?


I have to check. But I think existing is 5/8".

try sanding a bevel in the edge of the old cieling so you have a place to
put the new tape.


"yaofeng" wrote in message
ups.com...
Two weeks ago, or was it three, we had record rain fall in the north
east. It rained like 9 consecutive days.

One Saturday morning, I woke up discovering the kitchen floor dripping
wet in my 30 some year old split in New Jersey. I poked a hole into
the sheet rock, about two gallons of rain water came pouring down into
the bucket I placed below. Cutiing up the sheet rock to a big enough
hole to look, I found the source of leak is from the chimney to roof
flashing. So I went to Home Depot and bought some flashing pieces,
sheet metal screws and roofing adhesive and took care of the leake the
same day.

I also took the opportunity to add insulation to the part of the attic
where the leak occurred. This part is normally not accessible. I also
wanted to put a sky light up but the wife didn't like the idea.

I was lucky, the area of sheet rock which sustained water damage is a
full size 4x8. So now the area is all sealed up with batt insulation
waiting for the sheet rock to go up.

So what is the question?

The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found
the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet
goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it
thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look
good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do?

PipeDown wrote:
try sanding a bevel in the edge of the old cieling so you have a place to
put the new tape.


"yaofeng" wrote in message
ups.com...
Two weeks ago, or was it three, we had record rain fall in the north
east. It rained like 9 consecutive days.

One Saturday morning, I woke up discovering the kitchen floor dripping
wet in my 30 some year old split in New Jersey. I poked a hole into
the sheet rock, about two gallons of rain water came pouring down into
the bucket I placed below. Cutiing up the sheet rock to a big enough
hole to look, I found the source of leak is from the chimney to roof
flashing. So I went to Home Depot and bought some flashing pieces,
sheet metal screws and roofing adhesive and took care of the leake the
same day.

I also took the opportunity to add insulation to the part of the attic
where the leak occurred. This part is normally not accessible. I also
wanted to put a sky light up but the wife didn't like the idea.

I was lucky, the area of sheet rock which sustained water damage is a
full size 4x8. So now the area is all sealed up with batt insulation
waiting for the sheet rock to go up.

So what is the question?

The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found
the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet
goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it
thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look
good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do?


Yes. That's the idea I am looking for. Thanks. Existing aheet rock
is 5/8", BTW.

It would probably be easier to keep wetting the joint compond at the
tape until it softens enough to remove. It really doesn't take long to
soak it "soft". Otherwise, you can feather the joints out twice as wide
as existing and loose the hump that way.


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