In a 1960's home I replaced a circuit that had old, ungrounded wire
with 12/2 NM cable, and phished it up through the wood floors into the
existing handyboxes. All went well so far.

Unfortunately the old handy boxes aren't big enough to hold both the
incoming 12/2, and outgoing 12/2, not to mention the grounds that are
going to be connected.

So now I need to remove the older, smaller handyboxes and while I
managed the wiring part without damaging anything, I don't know how to
remove the existing handy-boxes to be able to install remodel boxes
without creating a mess. Is there a method that will allow the least
breakage of the drywall so that I can patch it up easily?

Thanks.

--
Himanshu

Probably not. I'd cut out rectangles of drywall beam to beam, giving you
plenty of room to remove and install the boxes, then tape in new pieces of
drywall



"Himanshu" wrote in message
oups.com...
In a 1960's home I replaced a circuit that had old, ungrounded wire
with 12/2 NM cable, and phished it up through the wood floors into the
existing handyboxes. All went well so far.

Unfortunately the old handy boxes aren't big enough to hold both the
incoming 12/2, and outgoing 12/2, not to mention the grounds that are
going to be connected.

So now I need to remove the older, smaller handyboxes and while I
managed the wiring part without damaging anything, I don't know how to
remove the existing handy-boxes to be able to install remodel boxes
without creating a mess. Is there a method that will allow the least
breakage of the drywall so that I can patch it up easily?

Thanks.

--
Himanshu

"Himanshu" wrote in message
oups.com...
In a 1960's home I replaced a circuit that had old, ungrounded wire
with 12/2 NM cable, and phished it up through the wood floors into the
existing handyboxes. All went well so far.

Unfortunately the old handy boxes aren't big enough to hold both the
incoming 12/2, and outgoing 12/2, not to mention the grounds that are
going to be connected.

So now I need to remove the older, smaller handyboxes and while I
managed the wiring part without damaging anything, I don't know how to
remove the existing handy-boxes to be able to install remodel boxes
without creating a mess. Is there a method that will allow the least
breakage of the drywall so that I can patch it up easily?

Thanks.

--
Himanshu

I posted this response a few weeks ago to a similiar situation. In that
case the homeowner had a plastic box to change. Based on the age of your
house you probably have 2 1/2" deep metal outlet boxes with side brackets.
The good news is that they are most likely nailed in and may be a little
loose. The bad news is that the metal side brackets extend past the hole in
the drywall. It may be more difficult to pry out the brackets without
damaging the drywall. Just take your time, don't rush. Use plastic boxes
as a replacement as they are bigger. You'll need to use oversized wall
plates when you finish.


"It is a little tricky, but it is possible to remove the existing one gang
plastic box and install a two gang plastic box without making a mess out of
the drywall. That dryer receptacle should fit nicely on a two gang box.

Get a two gang plastic old work box. Put it up to the existing box and mark
out the additional opening needed in the drywall to accommodate the two gang
box. Cut out the opening in the drywall.

Next get a big flat head screw driver and a nice pair of diagonal pliers.
Gingerly wedge the screwdriver between the existing box and the wooden stud
that it is nailed to. Move the screwdriver from the upper part of the box
to the lower part of the box and back again each time firmly applying some
force to separate the box from the stud. When you get enough space between
the box and the wall stud (Approximately 1") use the diagonal pliers to cut
the nails close to the box. The box should now be swinging freely in the
wall. Use pliers to remove the remaining nails from the wall stud.
Straighten out the wires and remove them from the box. You can try and
remove the box from the wall or just let it fall inside to be buried inside
the wall forever.

You may need to remove a cable staple or two near the existing box to gain
some slack and flexibility with the existing cable. Use a long thin
screwdriver for this and a pair of pliers.

Check to make sure that the new two gang old work box fits in the new hole.
If not then cut out some more for a good fit.

Next straighten out the wires as much as possible. The larger the wires,
the more difficult they will be to get into the new box. Push the wires
part way into the box as you insert the box into the wall. Little by little
push and pull the wires into the box as you continue to push the box into
the wall. Your hands will get tired quickly so take your time.

When the box is fully inside the wall and the wires are completely in the
box you can straighten the box out and set the securing wings to fasten the
box to the drywall. For extra strength I like to shoot one drywall or #8 x
1-1/4" sheet metal screw through the middle of the side of the plastic box
into the wall stud.

Wire up the outlet and use a two gang cover for a dryer outlet to finish it
off. I'm not sure if Home depot sells these, but they are readily available
at an electrical supply house. If a standard size cover doesn't completely
cover the opening in the drywall, you can order a midsize or a king size
from the supply house."


John Grabowski
http://www.mrelectrician.tv



"Nick C Topolos" wrote in message
...
We just received a new stackable washer and dryer. I wanted to use a 4
prong plug and the installer installed a 4 prong pigtail in the dryer. I
then bought a new receptacle which I found is 2 1/4" wide to fit in a 2"
wide box. Is there a more narrow receptacle available? Or what is an
easy way to remove the existing box? It is plastic. I have a blue old
work box with the fold out tabs but I think it would be too flimsy for
the 240V plug. Thank you

So now I need to remove the older, smaller handyboxes and while I
managed the wiring part without damaging anything, I don't know how to
remove the existing handy-boxes to be able to install remodel boxes
without creating a mess. Is there a method that will allow the least
breakage of the drywall so that I can patch it up easily?

Do you reacll or HAVE another handybox similar to what you installed ? The
metal ones have a flange that can be adjusted backward intil the box can be
pulled out w/o any damage. Some of the blue plastic ones have two corner
tabs that flip up/out within the wall to secure the box. If you can figure
out where the "tabs" are, you can cut thru the drywall with something like a
sharp screwdriver so the tabs can be eased thru and out of the wall. You can
use some "mud" and f'glass drywall tape to fix the cuts once you get the box
out and then slide the new (deep) ones in.

John Grabowski wrote:
"Himanshu" wrote in message
oups.com...

So now I need to remove the older, smaller handyboxes and while I
managed the wiring part without damaging anything, I don't know how to
remove the existing handy-boxes to be able to install remodel boxes
without creating a mess. Is there a method that will allow the least
breakage of the drywall so that I can patch it up easily?

I posted this response a few weeks ago to a similiar situation. In that
case the homeowner had a plastic box to change. Based on the age of your
house you probably have 2 1/2" deep metal outlet boxes with side brackets.
The good news is that they are most likely nailed in and may be a little
loose. The bad news is that the metal side brackets extend past the hole in
the drywall.

John,

Excellent info - I did, in fact, find your earlier post by Googling.
The older boxes aren't 2 1/2" deep actually - they're pretty shallow.
It's a metal box, approx 12 cu in.

[To Mark: local inspector has already said the boxes are too shallow and
must be replaced if I want to use 12/2]

After some careful use of a drywall saw around the existing box in the
wall, I found that it's held to stud by long nails that go right through
the metal box, with the nails partly visible on the inside. I didn't
see (feel) any brackets holding it to the stud.

So now I'm thinking of getting a Reciprocating saw to cut the nails on
the stud-side and hopefully the box will just come right out of the wall.

Just take your time, don't rush. Use plastic boxes
as a replacement as they are bigger. You'll need to use oversized wall
plates when you finish.

Yes, I found rushing it even a little bit causes drywall damage! I do
plan on using the plastic boxes, but didn't think about oversize cover
plates. Will keep that in mind.

Thanks again.

--
Himanshu

"Himanshu" wrote in message
news:8v63f.9505$Iq3.2524@trndny01...
John Grabowski wrote:
"Himanshu" wrote in message
oups.com...

So now I need to remove the older, smaller handyboxes and while I
managed the wiring part without damaging anything, I don't know how to
remove the existing handy-boxes to be able to install remodel boxes
without creating a mess. Is there a method that will allow the least
breakage of the drywall so that I can patch it up easily?

I posted this response a few weeks ago to a similiar situation. In that
case the homeowner had a plastic box to change. Based on the age of
your
house you probably have 2 1/2" deep metal outlet boxes with side
brackets.
The good news is that they are most likely nailed in and may be a little
loose. The bad news is that the metal side brackets extend past the
hole in
the drywall.

John,

Excellent info - I did, in fact, find your earlier post by Googling.
The older boxes aren't 2 1/2" deep actually - they're pretty shallow.
It's a metal box, approx 12 cu in.

[To Mark: local inspector has already said the boxes are too shallow and
must be replaced if I want to use 12/2]

After some careful use of a drywall saw around the existing box in the
wall, I found that it's held to stud by long nails that go right through
the metal box, with the nails partly visible on the inside. I didn't
see (feel) any brackets holding it to the stud.

So now I'm thinking of getting a Reciprocating saw to cut the nails on
the stud-side and hopefully the box will just come right out of the wall.

Just take your time, don't rush. Use plastic boxes
as a replacement as they are bigger. You'll need to use oversized wall
plates when you finish.

Yes, I found rushing it even a little bit causes drywall damage! I do
plan on using the plastic boxes, but didn't think about oversize cover
plates. Will keep that in mind.

Thanks again.

--
Himanshu


Those nails going through the box are probably the only means of support.
They may be #8's or 16's. The screwdriver prying method may work. If you
use the reciprocating saw, use it on low speed and get a long (10" or 12")
hacksaw blade made for it. You don't want that saw banging into the
drywall.