"Himanshu" wrote in message
news:8v63f.9505$Iq3.2524@trndny01...
John Grabowski wrote:
"Himanshu" wrote in message
oups.com...

So now I need to remove the older, smaller handyboxes and while I
managed the wiring part without damaging anything, I don't know how to
remove the existing handy-boxes to be able to install remodel boxes
without creating a mess. Is there a method that will allow the least
breakage of the drywall so that I can patch it up easily?

I posted this response a few weeks ago to a similiar situation. In that
case the homeowner had a plastic box to change. Based on the age of
your
house you probably have 2 1/2" deep metal outlet boxes with side
brackets.
The good news is that they are most likely nailed in and may be a little
loose. The bad news is that the metal side brackets extend past the
hole in
the drywall.

John,

Excellent info - I did, in fact, find your earlier post by Googling.
The older boxes aren't 2 1/2" deep actually - they're pretty shallow.
It's a metal box, approx 12 cu in.

[To Mark: local inspector has already said the boxes are too shallow and
must be replaced if I want to use 12/2]

After some careful use of a drywall saw around the existing box in the
wall, I found that it's held to stud by long nails that go right through
the metal box, with the nails partly visible on the inside. I didn't
see (feel) any brackets holding it to the stud.

So now I'm thinking of getting a Reciprocating saw to cut the nails on
the stud-side and hopefully the box will just come right out of the wall.

Just take your time, don't rush. Use plastic boxes
as a replacement as they are bigger. You'll need to use oversized wall
plates when you finish.

Yes, I found rushing it even a little bit causes drywall damage! I do
plan on using the plastic boxes, but didn't think about oversize cover
plates. Will keep that in mind.

Thanks again.

--
Himanshu


Those nails going through the box are probably the only means of support.
They may be #8's or 16's. The screwdriver prying method may work. If you
use the reciprocating saw, use it on low speed and get a long (10" or 12")
hacksaw blade made for it. You don't want that saw banging into the
drywall.