The facia boards on my (single story) house are rough sawn 2 x 12.

Due to constant sun exposure (Southern California) the boards have developed
cracks and fissures, some 1/4" wide, 1/2" deep and 5' long.

I have patched the cracks with exterior caulk and repainted them. However,
due to the different rate of expansion between the caulk and the wood, the
caulk keeps popping out.

Due to the deep cracks, the boards have developed some dry-rot, which I have
repaired successfully.

How can I get the caulk to stay in the cracks? Replacing the boards would be
a major undertaking.

Thanks for any help

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-

Walter R. wrote:
The facia boards on my (single story) house are rough sawn 2 x 12.

Due to constant sun exposure (Southern California) the boards have developed
cracks and fissures, some 1/4" wide, 1/2" deep and 5' long.

I have patched the cracks with exterior caulk and repainted them. However,
due to the different rate of expansion between the caulk and the wood, the
caulk keeps popping out.

Due to the deep cracks, the boards have developed some dry-rot, which I have
repaired successfully.

How can I get the caulk to stay in the cracks? Replacing the boards would be
a major undertaking.

I doubt you'll be able to stop the checking. A big piece of wood like
that has all sorts of internal stresses from changes in temperature and
humidity. Those stresses have to be resolved the only way they can -
by gaps opening up.

You didn't mention how long those fascia boards have been in place, but
your periodic caulking and painting is the only "solution".

R

In article ,
(Walter R.) says...
The facia boards on my (single story) house are rough sawn 2 x 12.

Due to constant sun exposure (Southern California) the boards have developed
cracks and fissures, some 1/4" wide, 1/2" deep and 5' long.

I have patched the cracks with exterior caulk and repainted them. However,
due to the different rate of expansion between the caulk and the wood, the
caulk keeps popping out.

Due to the deep cracks, the boards have developed some dry-rot, which I have
repaired successfully.

How can I get the caulk to stay in the cracks? Replacing the boards would be
a major undertaking.

Just cover them with painted metal fascia trim. Any metal siding
contractor can bend up the flashing on the job and install it for you,
or you can make up a materials list and take it to a metal roofing and
siding shop to have the materials fabricated. You can choose an
appropriate factory color, or paint it yourself.

--
http://home.teleport.com/~larryc

"Larry Caldwell" wrote in message
k.net...
In article ,
(Walter R.) says...
The facia boards on my (single story) house are rough sawn 2 x 12.

Due to constant sun exposure (Southern California) the boards have
developed
cracks and fissures, some 1/4" wide, 1/2" deep and 5' long.

I have patched the cracks with exterior caulk and repainted them.
However,
due to the different rate of expansion between the caulk and the wood,
the
caulk keeps popping out.

Due to the deep cracks, the boards have developed some dry-rot, which I
have
repaired successfully.

How can I get the caulk to stay in the cracks? Replacing the boards
would be
a major undertaking.

Just cover them with painted metal fascia trim. Any metal siding
contractor can bend up the flashing on the job and install it for you,
or you can make up a materials list and take it to a metal roofing and
siding shop to have the materials fabricated. You can choose an
appropriate factory color, or paint it yourself.

Bad idea, IMHO. any water that gets trapped behind will just rot the wood
faster. If you skin the fascia, at least do not do a wrap around the
backside unless you put in lots of weepholes. The idiot that did my house
(long before I bought it) did a no-weep install, and it led to water
tracking back along the soffit, and back into the wall. The guy that changed
out the rotted window fine-tuned the fascia skin with vise-grips so some of
the water would drain, but I can still stick my finger in the drain hole and
come back with rotted wood on it. Dreading replacing the roof next year-once
they open it up, I'm sure to have lots of expensive wood replacement needed.

aem sends...

"Walter R." wrote in message
...
The facia boards on my (single story) house are rough sawn 2 x 12.

Due to constant sun exposure (Southern California) the boards have
developed cracks and fissures, some 1/4" wide, 1/2" deep and 5' long.

I have patched the cracks with exterior caulk and repainted them. However,
due to the different rate of expansion between the caulk and the wood, the
caulk keeps popping out.

Due to the deep cracks, the boards have developed some dry-rot, which I
have repaired successfully.

How can I get the caulk to stay in the cracks? Replacing the boards would
be a major undertaking.

Thanks for any help

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-


The best caulk only last a few years. If it was me I would seal with thin
epoxy, the one for dry rot and then fill it with Bondo and paint with
something like Kelly-Moore elastomer (elastic polymer) paint which will
expand and contract with the wood.

"ameijers" wrote in message
...
:
: "Larry Caldwell" wrote in message
: k.net...
: In article ,

: (Walter R.) says...
: The facia boards on my (single story) house are rough sawn
2 x 12.
:
: Due to constant sun exposure (Southern California) the
boards have
: developed
: cracks and fissures, some 1/4" wide, 1/2" deep and 5' long.
:
: I have patched the cracks with exterior caulk and repainted
them.
: However,
: due to the different rate of expansion between the caulk
and the wood,
: the
: caulk keeps popping out.
:
: Due to the deep cracks, the boards have developed some
dry-rot, which I
: have
: repaired successfully.
:
: How can I get the caulk to stay in the cracks? Replacing
the boards
: would be
: a major undertaking.
:
: Just cover them with painted metal fascia trim. Any metal
siding
: contractor can bend up the flashing on the job and install it
for you,
: or you can make up a materials list and take it to a metal
roofing and
: siding shop to have the materials fabricated. You can choose
an
: appropriate factory color, or paint it yourself.
:
: Bad idea, IMHO. any water that gets trapped behind will just
rot the wood
: faster. If you skin the fascia, at least do not do a wrap
around the
....

Actually, that's a pretty good way to go. As long as it's
installed properly (directions for the diyer are easy to find if
needed) it will not rot the wood behind it, or cause rot or trap
water. It's a good way to go and I haven't had to touch mine in
over 20 years. This summer I insulated a back porch and when I
removed the soffit and facia, the wood was as pristine as the day
it was last painted. And still tightly nailed in place.

PopS

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 17:21:45 GMT, "Walter R."
wrote:
How can I get the caulk to stay in the cracks? Replacing the boards would be
a major undertaking.

The name escapes me, but there is a tube of caulk, cost is about $7.00
that is actually used in railroad car construction...it's said it will
stick to lard and clothes! (poly -something)

Oren

At this moment I do not have a personal relationship
with a computer. Janet Reno, Attorney General 24 May 1998

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 19:23:30 GMT, "ameijers"
wrote:

reading replacing the roof next year-once
:they open it up, I'm sure to have lots of expensive wood replacement needed.
Probably not as much replacement needed as my roof, which is going to be
done last week in October, if the schedule holds. What has to be done
had to be done. I am trying to learn enough about the roofer's trade now
to help make sure the job's done right. Any suggestions, welcome.

Dan