I just bought a Sears Craftsman radial arm saw at a garage sale.

The model number is 113.199250 ... a 10-inch radial 2 1/2 horaspower
saw with legs. It appears to be in great shape.

One problem though is that the power on-off switch key is missing. Do
you know where I can buy one of the keys to fit the power switch?

Thank you for your help.

Bob Burkett

seniorgeezer wrote:
I just bought a Sears Craftsman radial arm saw at a garage sale.

The model number is 113.199250 ... a 10-inch radial 2 1/2 horaspower
saw with legs. It appears to be in great shape.

One problem though is that the power on-off switch key is missing. Do
you know where I can buy one of the keys to fit the power switch?

Thank you for your help.

Bob Burkett




Sears sells parts for all their stuff. Just go the sears web site and
order it.

"seniorgeezer" wrote in message
oups.com...
I just bought a Sears Craftsman radial arm saw at a garage sale.

The model number is 113.199250 ... a 10-inch radial 2 1/2 horaspower
saw with legs. It appears to be in great shape.

One problem though is that the power on-off switch key is missing. Do
you know where I can buy one of the keys to fit the power switch?


Sears.

seniorgeezer wrote:
I just bought a Sears Craftsman radial arm saw at a garage sale.

The model number is 113.199250 ... a 10-inch radial 2 1/2 horaspower
saw with legs. It appears to be in great shape.

One problem though is that the power on-off switch key is missing. Do
you know where I can buy one of the keys to fit the power switch?

Thank you for your help.

Bob Burkett



I expect most stores will have some around somewhere. They are almost
universal.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 10:12:31 -0700, seniorgeezer wrote:

I just bought a Sears Craftsman radial arm saw at a garage sale.

The model number is 113.199250 ... a 10-inch radial 2 1/2 horaspower
saw with legs. It appears to be in great shape.

One problem though is that the power on-off switch key is missing. Do
you know where I can buy one of the keys to fit the power switch?

Be very careful with that saw. RAS' are one of the most dangerous tools
in a shop. Having said that, know where I can get a manual (not sure
mine is the same model)? Mine is 30 years old and I've lost the manual and
can't possible set it up without it. IIRC, Sears stopped publishing the
manuals and recalled the units.

--
Keith

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 22:27:18 -0400, keith wrote:


Be very careful with that saw. RAS' are one of the most dangerous tools
in a shop. Having said that, know where I can get a manual (not sure
mine is the same model)? Mine is 30 years old and I've lost the manual and
can't possible set it up without it. IIRC, Sears stopped publishing the
manuals and recalled the units.

What is your model number. I still have the manual, dado blade and
shaper head I got with the saw in the early 70s. Sounds like you may
be replacing or leveling the table.

For the OP, I could trace my key for you if you can't find one.

keith wrote:
Be very careful with that saw. RAS' are one of the most dangerous tools
in a shop. Having said that, know where I can get a manual (not sure
mine is the same model)? Mine is 30 years old and I've lost the manual and
can't possible set it up without it. IIRC, Sears stopped publishing the
manuals and recalled the units.


Bull****. The only operation on my RAS that I consider dangerous is ripping.
For cross cuts, it's no worse than any other saw. You are expected to take
ordinary care not to pull the blade across body parts but it's not difficult.
Frankly, I see many more opportunities for shop mayhem with an ordinary table
saw.

I own a aforementioned RAS, table saw, band saw, compound miter saw, drill
press, planer and jointer. I consider the jointer the most dangerous tool in my
shop.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 22:20:33 -0500, Andy Asberry wrote:

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 22:27:18 -0400, keith wrote:


Be very careful with that saw. RAS' are one of the most dangerous tools
in a shop. Having said that, know where I can get a manual (not sure
mine is the same model)? Mine is 30 years old and I've lost the manual and
can't possible set it up without it. IIRC, Sears stopped publishing the
manuals and recalled the units.

What is your model number. I still have the manual, dado blade and
shaper head I got with the saw in the early 70s.

133-19771

Sounds like you may be replacing or leveling the table.

Well, I lost a few of the bolts that hold the table on, so yes, I have to
re-level it. A RAS takes some care to get anythign close to a decent cut
from it and the alignment procedure isn't at all intuitive. Things
interact. ...and the table isn't intended to be level, rather parallel to
the arm (which should have a backward slope).

For the OP, I could trace my key for you if you can't find one.

I *think* I still have both keys, but I'd have to look. IITC, it's just a
wedge, rather like my snowblower "keys".

--
Keith

On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 09:22:49 +0000, Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:

keith wrote:
Be very careful with that saw. RAS' are one of the most dangerous tools
in a shop. Having said that, know where I can get a manual (not sure
mine is the same model)? Mine is 30 years old and I've lost the manual and
can't possible set it up without it. IIRC, Sears stopped publishing the
manuals and recalled the units.


Bull****.

Utter nonsense! Now that we have the introductions out of the way...

The only operation on my RAS that I consider dangerous is ripping.

"You consider?". Ok, ripping *is* part of the intended use of the tool.
This *is* a dangerous operation, though I too have done it a thousand
times and still can count to ten.

For cross cuts, it's no worse than any other saw.

Actually, it is. The blade on a RAS likes to climb on top of the
work piece, accelerating the carriage towards the operator. This cannot
happen with a table saw, since the blace would crawl back in its hole.

You are expected to take ordinary care not to pull the blade across
body parts but it's not difficult. Frankly, I see many more
opportunities for shop mayhem with an ordinary table saw.

You're not supposed to put body parts across a table saw blade either.
The fact is that a table saw won't try to jump *at* you. A RAS certainly
can!

I own a aforementioned RAS, table saw, band saw, compound miter saw,
drill press, planer and jointer. I consider the jointer the most
dangerous tool in my shop.

Nonsense. If your hands are anywhere near the business end of a jointer
*you* are the one not being carefull. I never use the thing without
push-blocks. A jointer isn't going to jump at you either. ..and only a
fool would put his hands near enough to the blades to have them sucked in
by the work piece kicking. OTOH, a RAS is *designed* to be dangerous when
doign some rip operations. There is a reason Sears recalled them, not
that there was a chance I'd have traded mine in for a buck.

--
Keith

keith wrote:
"You consider?". Ok, ripping *is* part of the intended use of the tool.
This *is* a dangerous operation, though I too have done it a thousand
times and still can count to ten.


I've only done it a few times. It scared the hell out of me. Now I do my
ripping on either the band saw or table saw.


Actually, it is. The blade on a RAS likes to climb on top of the
work piece, accelerating the carriage towards the operator. This cannot
happen with a table saw, since the blace would crawl back in its hole.


I don't recall my RAS ever trying to jump at me. Maybe that's because I
maintain an adequate grip on it.


You're not supposed to put body parts across a table saw blade either.
The fact is that a table saw won't try to jump *at* you. A RAS certainly
can!


I've never had a table saw jump at me either. I have had one launch boards at
high speed towards the wall behind me. Kickback on a table saw is the real
deal.


--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 03:02:13 +0000, Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:

keith wrote:
"You consider?". Ok, ripping *is* part of the intended use of the tool.
This *is* a dangerous operation, though I too have done it a thousand
times and still can count to ten.


I've only done it a few times. It scared the hell out of me. Now I do my
ripping on either the band saw or table saw.

If I had a table saw, I'd ditch the RAS. ...maybe soon. A RAS is at
*best* a poor compromise between flexibility and accuracy (not to mention
safety).

Actually, it is. The blade on a RAS likes to climb on top of the
work piece, accelerating the carriage towards the operator. This cannot
happen with a table saw, since the blace would crawl back in its hole.


I don't recall my RAS ever trying to jump at me. Maybe that's because I
maintain an adequate grip on it.

It's not the grip at all. The blade is rotating such that it wants to,
not only come at you, but climb on top of the work. I haven't had this
happen either, but it is a huge danger of the beast. Thin-kerf blades are
a mixed blessing here too. While thay have less drag in the wood, they
are more flexible and will have more of a tendancy to wander up on top.

I think if you look at any workshop statistics the RAS is *the* most
dangerous tool in the shop, per use/installation/user. Sure, *all* shop
tools are dangerous, but a bandsaw isn't about to lurch and take off an
arm before you can respond.

You're not supposed to put body parts across a table saw blade either.
The fact is that a table saw won't try to jump *at* you. A RAS
certainly can!


I've never had a table saw jump at me either.

Table saw physics is far different. For one thing the saw is cutting down
against the table, rather than up, like a RAS ripping. If the blade
flexes, it will take less of a bite in the wood, rather than flying toward
you.

I have had one launch boards at high speed towards the wall behind me.
Kickback on a table saw is the real deal.

You've never seen kick-back on a RAS? I have. I've also had my RAS
stopped *DEAD* when a hidden stress in a board (1" cedar) caused the kerf
to instantly collapse on the blade during a *CROSS CUT*. I played hell
getting the blade out of the board without ruining it. ...scared the &#|/
outta me!

I have no real problems with RAS' or any other tool, just warn people that
these things aren't as benign as they apear. They are very deceptive!
....as are planers and jointers, as you've pointed out.

--
Keith

keith wrote:
You've never seen kick-back on a RAS? I have. I've also had my RAS
stopped *DEAD* when a hidden stress in a board (1" cedar) caused the kerf
to instantly collapse on the blade during a *CROSS CUT*. I played hell
getting the blade out of the board without ruining it. ...scared the &#|/
outta me!


My Crapsman RAS has been slowed to a halt on several ocasions. This is
something I've never had any other big tool do. I just attributed it to the saw
being weak. It was my first big tool so I had nothing to compare.

If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't buy the RAS. Since I already have
it, I use it for crosscutting exclusively. It was my first big tool; I bought
the table saw later and the bandsaw much later. The table saw is pretty much
what I expected but the bandsaw has been a very pleasant surprise. There's a
lot to be said for something that can cut wood a foot thick.

The table saw is now a lot more elaborate than Ridgid probably ever expected. I
added an outfeed table, then added a router with lift to the left side of the
saw (retaining the original wing). I also added an overtable guard. Once I
added it, I decided I needed to add an extension wing to the right side of the
saw so I'd have adequate clearance for reasonably sized panels. The whole
contraption is huge now but I've a had a few folks drool when they see it.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 22:27:18 -0400, keith wrote:

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 10:12:31 -0700, seniorgeezer wrote:

I just bought a Sears Craftsman radial arm saw at a garage sale.

The model number is 113.199250 ... a 10-inch radial 2 1/2 horaspower
saw with legs. It appears to be in great shape.

One problem though is that the power on-off switch key is missing. Do
you know where I can buy one of the keys to fit the power switch?

Be very careful with that saw. RAS' are one of the most dangerous tools
in a shop. Having said that, know where I can get a manual (not sure
mine is the same model)? Mine is 30 years old and I've lost the manual and
can't possible set it up without it. IIRC, Sears stopped publishing the
manuals and recalled the units.

Keith, here are the setup and adjustment pages for my saw. It is not
the same model number as yours but maybe close enough.

http://www.asberry.net/woodworking.htm

On 2005/9/14 1:28 PM, "Andy Asberry" wrote:

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 22:27:18 -0400, keith wrote:

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 10:12:31 -0700, seniorgeezer wrote:

I just bought a Sears Craftsman radial arm saw at a garage sale.

The model number is 113.199250 ... a 10-inch radial 2 1/2 horaspower
saw with legs. It appears to be in great shape.

One problem though is that the power on-off switch key is missing. Do
you know where I can buy one of the keys to fit the power switch?

I have RAS with the same model number. Try Sears parts since a number of
their stationary power tools used the same key for quite a few years. This
was made by Emerson Tool so you might a key for one of their tools that
would work.


Be very careful with that saw. RAS' are one of the most dangerous tools
in a shop.

Be careful but a RAS is no more dangerous than a table saw if used properly.

Having said that, know where I can get a manual (not sure
mine is the same model)? Mine is 30 years old and I've lost the manual and
can't possible set it up without it. IIRC, Sears stopped publishing the
manuals and recalled the units.

My unit came under a safety campaign that provided a new blade guard and a
replacement work table top. For details, see
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/index2.htm .


Keith, here are the setup and adjustment pages for my saw. It is not
the same model number as yours but maybe close enough.

http://www.asberry.net/woodworking.htm

IMO, the best book is "Fine Tuning your Radial Arm Saw" by Jon Eakes. This
seems to be out of print but I heard that it is available online.

On Wed, 14 Sep 2005 03:38:58 +0000, Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:

keith wrote:
You've never seen kick-back on a RAS? I have. I've also had my RAS
stopped *DEAD* when a hidden stress in a board (1" cedar) caused the kerf
to instantly collapse on the blade during a *CROSS CUT*. I played hell
getting the blade out of the board without ruining it. ...scared the &#|/
outta me!


My Crapsman RAS has been slowed to a halt on several ocasions. This is
something I've never had any other big tool do. I just attributed it to the saw
being weak. It was my first big tool so I had nothing to compare.

This wasn't "slowed", it was *BANG* stopped! A slowing is most likely a
crappy power supply (220V would help). ...and I was sawing cedar, not
oak. Amazing!

If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't buy the RAS. Since I
already have it, I use it for crosscutting exclusively.

....nw that you have a table saw. ;-) If I had it to do over I would have
bought the table saw (about the same $$). But we didn't. ;-)

It was my first
big tool; I bought the table saw later and the bandsaw much later. The
table saw is pretty much what I expected but the bandsaw has been a very
pleasant surprise. There's a lot to be said for something that can cut
wood a foot thick.

How wide of a blade? I've wanted a bandsaw, but one that could take a
wide (perhaps 3") blade, so I could re-saw too. I really haven't had much
time for woodworking, so haven't invested in more stationary tools. This
will change though. ;-)

The table saw is now a lot more elaborate than Ridgid probably ever
expected. I added an outfeed table, then added a router with lift to
the left side of the saw (retaining the original wing).

Which lift? I saw one at the local Western Tools that was *awesome*. I
was just about to spring for it to put in a router table, but the wife may
not be happy with me plonking down $300 (and she knows were the RAS is ;-).

I also added an
overtable guard. Once I added it, I decided I needed to add an
extension wing to the right side of the saw so I'd have adequate
clearance for reasonably sized panels. The whole contraption is huge
now but I've a had a few folks drool when they see it.

Lotsa floor space too! Maybe the next house. ...hopefully in a year or
so.

--
Keith

On Wed, 14 Sep 2005 12:28:18 -0500, Andy Asberry wrote:

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 22:27:18 -0400, keith wrote:

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 10:12:31 -0700, seniorgeezer wrote:

I just bought a Sears Craftsman radial arm saw at a garage sale.

The model number is 113.199250 ... a 10-inch radial 2 1/2 horaspower
saw with legs. It appears to be in great shape.

One problem though is that the power on-off switch key is missing. Do
you know where I can buy one of the keys to fit the power switch?

Be very careful with that saw. RAS' are one of the most dangerous tools
in a shop. Having said that, know where I can get a manual (not sure
mine is the same model)? Mine is 30 years old and I've lost the manual and
can't possible set it up without it. IIRC, Sears stopped publishing the
manuals and recalled the units.

Keith, here are the setup and adjustment pages for my saw. It is not
the same model number as yours but maybe close enough.

http://www.asberry.net/woodworking.htm

I printed it out and looked through it. It's not exactly the
same model, but I think a little newer. Mine doesn't have the knob on
the front of the arm, just a lever. The instructions look quite
similar though. I'll give it a go!

Thanks!

--
Keith