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#1
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Question about window installation....
Hello,
I bought some certainteed Bryn Mar II vinyl double hung replacement windows.... they have a inch wide/deep slot that runs the outside perimeter of the window. It looks like it was meant to receive the siding, is this correct? In any case, does the whole window sit inside the wooden frame, or do you slide the window out so the siding butts up against the window/J channel.... and so the drain holes in the outside sill hang out away from the house(so they drain away from the house)? Thanks, Keith |
#2
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"Keith" wrote in message
oups.com... Hello, I bought some certainteed Bryn Mar II vinyl double hung replacement windows.... they have a inch wide/deep slot that runs the outside perimeter of the window. It looks like it was meant to receive the siding, is this correct? In any case, does the whole window sit inside the wooden frame, or do you slide the window out so the siding butts up against the window/J channel.... and so the drain holes in the outside sill hang out away from the house(so they drain away from the house)? Sounds like that job is beyond your skills/knowledge... S1 |
#3
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You must be a window installer that likes getting paid big bucks for
installing windows... |
#4
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Keith wrote:
Hello, I bought some certainteed Bryn Mar II vinyl double hung replacement windows.... they have a inch wide/deep slot that runs the outside perimeter of the window. It looks like it was meant to receive the siding, is this correct? In any case, does the whole window sit inside the wooden frame, or do you slide the window out so the siding butts up against the window/J channel.... and so the drain holes in the outside sill hang out away from the house(so they drain away from the house)? A typical replacement window fits inside the existing opening - there is no need to mess with the siding. R |
#5
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On 6 Sep 2005 16:53:15 -0700, "Keith" wrote:
I bought some certainteed Bryn Mar II vinyl double hung replacement windows.... they have a inch wide/deep slot that runs the outside perimeter of the window. It looks like it was meant to receive the siding, is this correct? Get a PDF file from this link.... http://www.certainteed.com/CertainTe...st/Literature/ oren They have computers, and they may have other weapons of mass destruction. Janet Reno, Attorney General, Friday, February 27, 1998 |
#6
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"Keith" wrote in message oups.com... Hello, I bought some certainteed Bryn Mar II vinyl double hung replacement windows.... they have a inch wide/deep slot that runs the outside perimeter of the window. It looks like it was meant to receive the siding, is this correct? In any case, does the whole window sit inside the wooden frame, or do you slide the window out so the siding butts up against the window/J channel.... and so the drain holes in the outside sill hang out away from the house(so they drain away from the house)? Thanks, Keith Replacement window installs where the old sash was. No siding work involved. Just remove interior stops and sash and put in the replacement (approx 3"thick) and reinstall the stops. You may want to install aluminum cladding on the old sill etc. |
#7
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Maybe I am using the wrong term...When I removed the original window, I
had nothing left except the 2x4 studs that make up the frame. Then of course, you have a half inch of plywood, and the siding. The original window butted right up againt the aluminum siding. So when I removed the original window, I needed to do something with the siding, like put a j-channel all around the perimeter. If I have the window sit entirely on the frame stud, then the sill of the new window, with it's drain holes, hangs over the plywood -not good. Keith |
#8
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"Keith" wrote in message oups.com... Maybe I am using the wrong term...When I removed the original window, I had nothing left except the 2x4 studs that make up the frame. Then of course, you have a half inch of plywood, and the siding. The original window butted right up againt the aluminum siding. So when I removed the original window, I needed to do something with the siding, like put a j-channel all around the perimeter. If I have the window sit entirely on the frame stud, then the sill of the new window, with it's drain holes, hangs over the plywood -not good. Keith I am confused now. You removed the entire window and frame so there is just the studs. Are you now trying to use a replacement window or did you get a new construction window? A new construction window should have a nailing flange around it that just nails to the plywood than siding covers the flange. I have used the BryMar but only as a replacement window which requires the existing window frame to be there. I am not familiar with them configured for new construction with a flange. Sorry I can't be of more help. |
#9
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If you read the Certainteed website install instructions, you will see
that installation into a rough opening is one of the options....in fact when I ordered the windows, they asked for the rough opening size.... |
#10
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"Keith" wrote in message oups.com... If you read the Certainteed website install instructions, you will see that installation into a rough opening is one of the options....in fact when I ordered the windows, they asked for the rough opening size.... But is the replacement window the same identical outside dimensions as the original ? (height, width, depth) Manufacturers can/do goof, reading and order, and mistake a 6 for an 8 or a 0 on a piece of paper or a tape measure, and the wrong size is a result. AMUN |
#11
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Keith wrote:
If you read the Certainteed website install instructions, you will see that installation into a rough opening is one of the options....in fact when I ordered the windows, they asked for the rough opening size.... Keith, I don't know what to tell you, but those instructions are entirely ****ed up. There's no mention of any flashing whatsoever - they want you to caulk the window to the wood framing! That is simply insane. Your framing will rot instead of the window frame. Rule one in weatherproofing - don't rely on caulk. I thought you were missing something, but nope, the instructions do say to do exactly what you have done. I've never seen such lame instructions from such a quality company. You are now in for a rather large learning experience. Having been in the business for a while, I would have ignored those instructions and either inserted the windows into the existing window frame after pulling the sashes and stops, or have allowed for quite a bit of flashing work. You are now firmly in damage control territory. I don't see any simple options. I would not be happy about doing it because it is so much more work and money, but I'd probably cut back the siding to allow for an exterior casing of 1x4 Azek, then flash around the window with a metal top (required by code even though it is frequently omitted) and self-adhesive 4" or 6" Bituthene type flashing. After that's done I'd probably install the siding channel to the Azek casing and install those pieces as an assembly (you won't be able to nail standard J-channel as the leg will be behind the existing siding). I'd contact Certainteed's tech department and ask them to fax you some detail sketches of how they suggest you do it. They might have a way that is easier than mine, but I can't see it from here. R |
#12
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What is wrong with what I did... which was to put j-channel all around
the perimeter of the siding. Then I simply slide the window out just enough so that the j-channel slipped into the slot of the window. It butts nicely up against the window, and I caulked it. In fact, many replacement windows I see come with an integral J-channel!!!! Keith |
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