there are points under the flywheel, you can sandem with some emery or
replace.

On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 06:22:13 -0700, mingv wrote:

I've got a 1958 Briggs & Stratton 6B-S engine I'm trying to get running.
I seem to have good compression (thumb in sparkplug hole test). I've got
fuel dripping in the carb. I've got a new Champion J8 sparkplug gapped
to .020". Still won't start.

Won't start and "won't fire" is different to me. Does the engine fire
(act like it's about to run) at all? By "fuel dripping", do you mean
"flooded" - with fuel coming out or do you mean you see or know fuel
is getting through normally.

Have you cleaned the carburetor, by that I mean checking to see if the
carb float is stuck or sticking. Besides the cleaning the jets and
float, etc, there are "two very small holes" inside the "tubby
thingy" that may be clogged and preventing adequate fuel from getting
through. The way to clean them is by using a steel bristle (tiny wire)
from a steel brush to clean them out. They do get clogged

(1) the plug doesn't look wet with gas when I remove it after several
pulls on the rope starter. But I've got fuel in the bottom of the carb,
to the point where it's dripping out the hole for the air cleaner screw.
So I _think_ it's getting gas, but I'm not sure. (I've also tried
spraying the intake with "starting fluid" to no avail.)

You can poor a small amount of fuel in the plug hole, replace the plug
and see if it fires. If so, you may not be getting enough fuel, so
check the holes mentioned above, also if the carb (not sure) a
diaframe (sp) , it may be week or bad.

(2) I've got a spark when I lean the plug against the head, but it seems
very weak. I think this is my problem rather than gas. I removed the

You prefer a strong solid "blue" spark verses a week yellow or orange
one.

sheet metal that covers the flywheel. DOES THIS THING HAVE POINTS??? If
so, I can't find them. The spark plug wire comes out of a black thingie
that I can't seem to get into. Is this a magneto? (I don't understand
magnetoes.)

No point's. With sand paper, clean (lightly sand) the magnets of the
side of the flywheel to remove any rust or film build-up. See if this
improves the spark test. Make sure the wire is snug on the plug when
attached. Also sand the metal portion (adjacent the fly wheel) of that
black thingy so when the fly wheel rotates there is good contact.

If the card checks out and is cleaned as mentioned it could be the
black thingy needs replaced....but my first guess is the carb jets,
etc.

The thing that really worries me is that coming out of this black
thingie (magneto?) is a blue wire that hangs down on the outside of the
motor and doesn't connect to anything, and there's a red wire that comes
up from inside the motor case, comes up close to the black thingie
(magneto?) and DOESN'T CONNECT TO ANYTHING. Should either or both of
these wires be connected to something???

Can you determine if something is missing. I don't recall older
engines having and off and on switch.

Oren

I would put some engine oil in the plug hole and with out
replacing the plug pull it over a few times to get some oil
on the cyl. walls. Then you can use an old, old trick to
start an engine that won't firs and that is to put a little
and i mean a little fuel in the plug hole replace the plug
and pull and see if it wants to fire, if it does sounds like
the carb is plugged.
wrote in message
...
there are points under the flywheel, you can sandem with
some emery or
replace.

"mingv" wrote in message
...
I've got a 1958 Briggs & Stratton 6B-S engine I'm trying to get running.
I seem to have good compression (thumb in sparkplug hole test). I've got
fuel dripping in the carb. I've got a new Champion J8 sparkplug gapped
to .020". Still won't start.

That seems kinda tight to me. Is that what is on the specs? I would try
..032.


Two things occurred to me:

(1) the plug doesn't look wet with gas when I remove it after several
pulls on the rope starter. But I've got fuel in the bottom of the carb,
to the point where it's dripping out the hole for the air cleaner screw.
So I _think_ it's getting gas, but I'm not sure. (I've also tried
spraying the intake with "starting fluid" to no avail.)

(2) I've got a spark when I lean the plug against the head, but it seems
very weak. I think this is my problem rather than gas. I removed the
sheet metal that covers the flywheel. DOES THIS THING HAVE POINTS??? If
so, I can't find them.

You probably have to pull the flywheel to get to the points (use a flywheel
puller, don't bang on it or pry it off). I would (without specs) try .015
as a starting point to set the points.


The spark plug wire comes out of a black thingie
that I can't seem to get into. Is this a magneto? (I don't understand
magnetoes.)

I think you are describing the coil. There is a magnet on the flywheel that
causes induction each time it passes the coil.


The thing that really worries me is that coming out of this black
thingie (magneto?) is a blue wire that hangs down on the outside of the
motor and doesn't connect to anything, and there's a red wire that comes
up from inside the motor case, comes up close to the black thingie
(magneto?) and DOESN'T CONNECT TO ANYTHING. Should either or both of
these wires be connected to something???

One of those wires (usually black) might be a ground wire to shut of the
engine. It should run without that attached as long as it's not shorting
out. You also have a condensor in there but it should only have one wire
attached to it and the case is grounded. But since you say you have spark
then your points must be opening and closing. It is possible that you have
a bad condensor or a weak coil. Sometimes the magnet on the flywheel can
become weak over time but that doesn't seem likely.

As someone else said take out the spark plug, pour in a tiny amount of
gasoline, and try to start it. If it runs briefly then you probably have a
clogged carburator. This is the most likely problem because if old gas gets
left in there it will almost certainly clog it.


I'm at a loss. I've spent a couple of hours on the web trying to figure
this out, and been all through my "Walking Lawn Mower Service Manual"
(which only seems to deal with more recent models). My local mower shop
is closed on weekends and I'm leaving town early Monday morning. So I'm
hoping I can find some help here.

Thanks in advance!

On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 06:22:13 -0700, mingv wrote:

I've got a 1958 Briggs & Stratton 6B-S engine I'm trying to get running.
I seem to have good compression (thumb in sparkplug hole test). I've got
fuel dripping in the carb. I've got a new Champion J8 sparkplug gapped
to .020". Still won't start.



You have to have the screw for the air cleaner in the carb or it won't
run. If the screw is not there it will pull gas through that hole and
flood. This probably is not your problem now though....

There are points up under the flywheel on top of the motor. You
remove the starting assembly (did they have recoil back that far?) and
then use a flywheel puller to pop the flywheel off and you will find
the points and condenser under there. You will also find a key
between the flywheel and crankshaft that shears off if you hit
something with the blade. Check to make sure it is in perfect shape
and not sheared any as this will throw the timing out.

Points should be the same ones you will find on the shelf at the Home
Depot. One of those wires should run from the points to the coil.
Once you pull the flywheel you should find that wire and be able to
see where it goes.

Good luck getting the old girl running again. Sounds like a fun
project.

Steve B.

Dear Oren,
I've worked on a bunch of old Briggs engines -- I'm fairly sure they do
have breaker points. To get at them, you'd have to knock the flywheel off,
and take the little aluminum cover off.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


wrote in message
...
On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 06:22:13 -0700, mingv wrote:

I've got a 1958 Briggs & Stratton 6B-S engine I'm trying to get running.


sheet metal that covers the flywheel. DOES THIS THING HAVE POINTS??? If
so, I can't find them. The spark plug wire comes out of a black thingie
that I can't seem to get into. Is this a magneto? (I don't understand
magnetoes.)

No point's. With sand paper, clean (lightly sand) the magnets of the
side of the flywheel to remove any rust or film build-up. See if this
improves the spark test.

Oren

"mingv" wrote in message
...
I've got a 1958 Briggs & Stratton 6B-S engine I'm trying to get running.
I seem to have good compression (thumb in sparkplug hole test).
CY: The other test is to put the spark plug back in, and crank the blade
backwards. The compression release doesn't work in reverse.

I've got
fuel dripping in the carb. I've got a new Champion J8 sparkplug gapped
to .020". Still won't start.

Two things occurred to me:

(1) the plug doesn't look wet with gas when I remove it after several
pulls on the rope starter. But I've got fuel in the bottom of the carb,
to the point where it's dripping out the hole for the air cleaner screw.
So I _think_ it's getting gas, but I'm not sure. (I've also tried
spraying the intake with "starting fluid" to no avail.)
CY: The ether test indicates it's not a fuel problem.


(2) I've got a spark when I lean the plug against the head, but it seems
very weak. I think this is my problem rather than gas. I removed the
sheet metal that covers the flywheel. DOES THIS THING HAVE POINTS???
CY:yes, the poiints are under the flywheel.

If
so, I can't find them. The spark plug wire comes out of a black thingie
that I can't seem to get into. Is this a magneto? (I don't understand
magnetoes.)
CY: The black thing is the ignition coil.

The thing that really worries me is that coming out of this black
thingie (magneto?) is a blue wire that hangs down on the outside of the
motor and doesn't connect to anything, and there's a red wire that comes
up from inside the motor case, comes up close to the black thingie
(magneto?) and DOESN'T CONNECT TO ANYTHING. Should either or both of
these wires be connected to something???
CY: Typically there are two wires that come from under the flywheel. I don't
remember the colors. One goes to the igniton coil "the black thing where the
spark wire comes out" and the othe goes to the killswitch which is typically
on the carburetor.


I'm at a loss. I've spent a couple of hours on the web trying to figure
this out, and been all through my "Walking Lawn Mower Service Manual"
(which only seems to deal with more recent models). My local mower shop
is closed on weekends and I'm leaving town early Monday morning. So I'm
hoping I can find some help here.
CY: You'll have to remove the flywheel to get at anything useful. You up to
a flywheel knock off? I'll coach you if you want.


Thanks in advance!

Hey, Boots. The OP said it owuldn't work on a squirt of ether. And the spark
is weak. Sounds like it's not fuel.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"Boots" wrote in message
...
I would put some engine oil in the plug hole and with out
replacing the plug pull it over a few times to get some oil
on the cyl. walls. Then you can use an old, old trick to
start an engine that won't firs and that is to put a little
and i mean a little fuel in the plug hole replace the plug
and pull and see if it wants to fire, if it does sounds like
the carb is plugged.
wrote in message
...
there are points under the flywheel, you can sandem with
some emery or
replace.

Check out the Small Engine Technical Forum at:

http://www.perr.com/forum/





"mingv" wrote in message
...
I've got a 1958 Briggs & Stratton 6B-S engine I'm trying to get running.
I seem to have good compression (thumb in sparkplug hole test). I've got
fuel dripping in the carb. I've got a new Champion J8 sparkplug gapped
to .020". Still won't start.

Two things occurred to me:

(1) the plug doesn't look wet with gas when I remove it after several
pulls on the rope starter. But I've got fuel in the bottom of the carb,
to the point where it's dripping out the hole for the air cleaner screw.
So I _think_ it's getting gas, but I'm not sure. (I've also tried
spraying the intake with "starting fluid" to no avail.)

(2) I've got a spark when I lean the plug against the head, but it seems
very weak. I think this is my problem rather than gas. I removed the
sheet metal that covers the flywheel. DOES THIS THING HAVE POINTS??? If
so, I can't find them. The spark plug wire comes out of a black thingie
that I can't seem to get into. Is this a magneto? (I don't understand
magnetoes.)

The thing that really worries me is that coming out of this black
thingie (magneto?) is a blue wire that hangs down on the outside of the
motor and doesn't connect to anything, and there's a red wire that comes
up from inside the motor case, comes up close to the black thingie
(magneto?) and DOESN'T CONNECT TO ANYTHING. Should either or both of
these wires be connected to something???

I'm at a loss. I've spent a couple of hours on the web trying to figure
this out, and been all through my "Walking Lawn Mower Service Manual"
(which only seems to deal with more recent models). My local mower shop
is closed on weekends and I'm leaving town early Monday morning. So I'm
hoping I can find some help here.

Thanks in advance!

Well, sheez. THAT explains why his mower won't start. Creepers, the poor guy
has probably been out yanking on the start cord for the last three days
cause he over gapped his plug by .002, and you don't even apologize?

(I hope you find this as funny as I did while writing it. Some misteaks
aren't worth correcting, they are so smell.)

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"mingv" wrote in message news:nospam-
That seems kinda tight to me. Is that what is on the specs? I would try
.032.


Oops - typo! I meant .030" (what my mower repair guide says)

What am I missing here? Did I say to gap his plug at .002 somewhere? I
sure don't see where anyone said that...

On a modern BS engine it's usually about .032 for the spark gap. That's in
inches.


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Well, sheez. THAT explains why his mower won't start. Creepers, the poor
guy
has probably been out yanking on the start cord for the last three days
cause he over gapped his plug by .002, and you don't even apologize?

(I hope you find this as funny as I did while writing it. Some misteaks
aren't worth correcting, they are so smell.)

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
.
.


"mingv" wrote in message news:nospam-
That seems kinda tight to me. Is that what is on the specs? I would
try
.032.


Oops - typo! I meant .030" (what my mower repair guide says)

B&S plug gap spec is 0.030".

"Ulysses" wrote in message
...
What am I missing here? Did I say to gap his plug at .002 somewhere? I
sure don't see where anyone said that...

On a modern BS engine it's usually about .032 for the spark gap. That's
in
inches.


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Well, sheez. THAT explains why his mower won't start. Creepers, the poor
guy
has probably been out yanking on the start cord for the last three days
cause he over gapped his plug by .002, and you don't even apologize?

(I hope you find this as funny as I did while writing it. Some misteaks
aren't worth correcting, they are so smell.)

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
.
.


"mingv" wrote in message news:nospam-
That seems kinda tight to me. Is that what is on the specs? I would
try
.032.


Oops - typo! I meant .030" (what my mower repair guide says)

"overgapped by" means greater than. 032 is greater than 030 by.... 002.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"Ulysses" wrote in message
...
What am I missing here? Did I say to gap his plug at .002 somewhere? I
sure don't see where anyone said that...

On a modern BS engine it's usually about .032 for the spark gap. That's in
inches.


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Well, sheez. THAT explains why his mower won't start. Creepers, the poor
guy
has probably been out yanking on the start cord for the last three days
cause he over gapped his plug by .002, and you don't even apologize?

(I hope you find this as funny as I did while writing it. Some misteaks
aren't worth correcting, they are so smell.)

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
.
.


"mingv" wrote in message news:nospam-
That seems kinda tight to me. Is that what is on the specs? I would
try
.032.


Oops - typo! I meant .030" (what my mower repair guide says)

I stand corrected - had brain fart there. After reading again it
started clearing up the cob webs.

Thanks,

Oren

On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 23:50:14 GMT, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Dear Oren,
I've worked on a bunch of old Briggs engines -- I'm fairly sure they do
have breaker points. To get at them, you'd have to knock the flywheel off,
and take the little aluminum cover off.

I think I understand what you are saying now. You mean you think a BS
engine would not start if it was gapped to .032 instead of .030? I don't
think it would make any difference to the engine for short term. Many small
engine specs range from .029-.032 which is more of a difference than you are
saying won't work.


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
"overgapped by" means greater than. 032 is greater than 030 by.... 002.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
.
.


"Ulysses" wrote in message
...
What am I missing here? Did I say to gap his plug at .002 somewhere? I
sure don't see where anyone said that...

On a modern BS engine it's usually about .032 for the spark gap. That's
in
inches.


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Well, sheez. THAT explains why his mower won't start. Creepers, the poor
guy
has probably been out yanking on the start cord for the last three days
cause he over gapped his plug by .002, and you don't even apologize?

(I hope you find this as funny as I did while writing it. Some misteaks
aren't worth correcting, they are so smell.)

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
.
.


"mingv" wrote in message news:nospam-
That seems kinda tight to me. Is that what is on the specs? I would
try
.032.


Oops - typo! I meant .030" (what my mower repair guide says)