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PanHandler
 
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Default Icemaker

I have an icemaker in my Roper refrigerator's freezer that will not stop
water flow either when the tray fills or the bail is raised. I need a few
hints as to where I should look for problems. Is there a water level sensor
in the machine or is a timer used for water shutoff. The unit also has a
cube-size control if that matters.

--
"VISTA" is an acronym for the top five Windows problems: Viruses,
Infections, Spyware, Trojans and Adware.


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TURTLE
 
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"PanHandler" wrote in message
...
I have an icemaker in my Roper refrigerator's freezer that will not stop water
flow either when the tray fills or the bail is raised. I need a few hints as to
where I should look for problems. Is there a water level sensor in the machine
or is a timer used for water shutoff. The unit also has a cube-size control if
that matters.

--
"VISTA" is an acronym for the top five Windows problems: Viruses,
Infections, Spyware, Trojans and Adware.


This is Turtle.

if the fingers of the ice maker are down in the bowl and will not come out or
move. Also the water will keep running more than 30 seconds and no movement of
the fingers. You have a stuck ice maker. Buy a new ice maker and not the repair
kits.

If it is just over filling the bowl by a little bit. There is a adjustment on it
to shorted the time the water valve stays open when filling the water to the
bowl. Most ice makers have 6 to 9 seconds fill time and the adjustment you have
just shortens it or makes it longer to put more water in it.

A better description would be nice.

TURTLE


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PanHandler
 
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"TURTLE" wrote in message
...

"PanHandler" wrote in message
...
I have an icemaker in my Roper refrigerator's freezer that will not stop
water flow either when the tray fills or the bail is raised. I need a few
hints as to where I should look for problems. Is there a water level
sensor in the machine or is a timer used for water shutoff. The unit also
has a cube-size control if that matters.

--
"VISTA" is an acronym for the top five Windows problems: Viruses,
Infections, Spyware, Trojans and Adware.


This is Turtle.

if the fingers of the ice maker are down in the bowl and will not come out
or move. Also the water will keep running more than 30 seconds and no
movement of the fingers. You have a stuck ice maker. Buy a new ice maker
and not the repair kits.

If it is just over filling the bowl by a little bit. There is a adjustment
on it to shorted the time the water valve stays open when filling the
water to the bowl. Most ice makers have 6 to 9 seconds fill time and the
adjustment you have just shortens it or makes it longer to put more water
in it.

A better description would be nice.


The water runs until I shut off the supply. The fingers of the rake are in
the normal parked position. The machine will not shut off the water.


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Edwin Pawlowski
 
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"PanHandler" wrote in message
The water runs until I shut off the supply. The fingers of the rake are in
the normal parked position. The machine will not shut off the water.


The water tubing is opened by means of a solenoid valve. Chances are, it is
the culprit. It is an electromagnetic thing and may have a broken spring or
dead magnet.


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PanHandler
 
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"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"PanHandler" wrote in message
The water runs until I shut off the supply. The fingers of the rake are
in the normal parked position. The machine will not shut off the water.


The water tubing is opened by means of a solenoid valve. Chances are, it
is the culprit. It is an electromagnetic thing and may have a broken
spring or dead magnet.


That was my first guess, but I haven't had time yet to see if it's stuck or
has an open coil winding, although I would guess that if it's an open coil
the valve would be closed.




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Frank Boettcher
 
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On Sun, 07 Aug 2005 14:30:05 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"PanHandler" wrote in message
The water runs until I shut off the supply. The fingers of the rake are in
the normal parked position. The machine will not shut off the water.


The water tubing is opened by means of a solenoid valve. Chances are, it is
the culprit. It is an electromagnetic thing and may have a broken spring or
dead magnet.



That's true it could be, but they usually fail closed where they will
not let any water in. Way to check is to attach a voltmeter to the
solenoid terminals and check the voltage as the unit goes through a
fill cycle. It the voltage comes up and then does not drop off after
the appropriate time, the solenoid valve is doing what it is told to
do, that is, stay open.

Do a search for Ice maker repair and browse around. you will find
some very good diagnostic tools to determine whether it is your
solonoid valve or your timer/motor. Both are easily replaced.
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Edwin Pawlowski
 
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"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
That's true it could be, but they usually fail closed where they will
not let any water in. Way to check is to attach a voltmeter to the
solenoid terminals and check the voltage as the unit goes through a
fill cycle. It the voltage comes up and then does not drop off after
the appropriate time, the solenoid valve is doing what it is told to
do, that is, stay open.


If electricity opens it, what closes it? If a spring, the spring can be
broken.


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lp13-30
 
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If the water continues to come through the valve when there is no power
to it, the valve is bad. It is probably not the spring, but the valve
seat. Just replace the valve-- they are not very expensive. Larry

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Frank Boettcher
 
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On Sun, 07 Aug 2005 15:15:05 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
That's true it could be, but they usually fail closed where they will
not let any water in. Way to check is to attach a voltmeter to the
solenoid terminals and check the voltage as the unit goes through a
fill cycle. It the voltage comes up and then does not drop off after
the appropriate time, the solenoid valve is doing what it is told to
do, that is, stay open.


If electricity opens it, what closes it? If a spring, the spring can be
broken.


You're right. In my experience, however, and it is quite limited, the
coil fails first. I've replaced several that would not open, none
that would not close. doesn't mean that it can't happen. Kind of
like thermostats on cars, they can and will fail both ways.

By checking the voltage you can be sure that the timer/motor is
telling it to open and close properly, and eliminate all but the
solenoid as the problem.
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