Whenever I walk around the house, especially in carpeted areas, fleas
attach themselves to my legs and feet. Worse for my mother.
In the course of three or four days, we caught about fifty fleas.
Instead of trying to kill them with our fingers, we will pick them
off, and drown them in a big bowl of water.

Do electric flea traps work? I've vacuumed the carpets twice, but
still have fleas. The vacuum is old and doesn't have a very powerful
suction. SHould I get a steam vacuum? I want to avoid using pesticides
and carpet powders. I would like to know if those plug in flea traps
with glue traps attached, work.

I have a feeling I will have to order insecticides and powder.

Vacuum all you want, you'll never get them all.

Start with powdering the rugs, vacuuming all furniture and curtains, washing
all affected laundry, linens etc. Powders containing primarily Pyrethrums
are very safe. Steam cleaning will probably help but again, many fleas may
not be in the rug.

Glue traps don't work for fleas because they do not forage like ants or
cockroaches but wait for a meal to walk by before jumping. Maybe you can
wrap an object in fly paper and warm it to body temp then wave ot over the
carpet. (sounds crazy and might catch a few but not all)

If the infestation continues, you'll need to get a bug bomb (also at
supermarket or pet store) and treat all rooms according to directions and
stay out of the house for a day at least.

Even if you kill all the fleas today, you will need to retreat to kill the
ones waiting to hatch from the eggs tomorrow.

Give in and get a spray or powder. Is your discomfort and risk of getting
an infection from scratching a bite worth worring about the negligabe risk
of toxic reactions to flea treatments.


I assume you have a pet. get it treated. Frontline or similar works best.
Clean the areas the pet goes to and have it checked for worms too as they
can be transmitted by flea bites.



"ByzeiwIG" wrote in message
...
Whenever I walk around the house, especially in carpeted areas, fleas
attach themselves to my legs and feet. Worse for my mother.
In the course of three or four days, we caught about fifty fleas.
Instead of trying to kill them with our fingers, we will pick them
off, and drown them in a big bowl of water.

Do electric flea traps work? I've vacuumed the carpets twice, but
still have fleas. The vacuum is old and doesn't have a very powerful
suction. SHould I get a steam vacuum? I want to avoid using pesticides
and carpet powders. I would like to know if those plug in flea traps
with glue traps attached, work.

I have a feeling I will have to order insecticides and powder.

In article ,
says...
Do electric flea traps work? I've vacuumed the carpets twice, but
still have fleas. The vacuum is old and doesn't have a very powerful
suction. SHould I get a steam vacuum? I want to avoid using pesticides
and carpet powders. I would like to know if those plug in flea traps
with glue traps attached, work.

The adult fleas are only a percentage of the on going problem..there
will be eggs, larvae and pupae to deal with. An easy flea trap can be
made that will attract adults, but will not stop a infestation from
happening. Plug a night light in an outlet near the floor or place a
small lamp on the floor and place a pie pan with water (few drops of
dish soap optional) under the light.

Treating the pets is a must..the fleas will develop where the host
animal is spending time...the adults are on the animal feeding...laying
eggs dropping fecal matter (dried blood). Where ever the animal is
walking, laying around, eating, etc. the eggs and fecal matter will fall
off. The eggs hatch and the larvae will find the fecal matter and other
organic matter and feed, so these areas also need to be treated with an
insect growth regulator or IGR to stop the cycle by killing the eggs and
keeping the larvae from developing into adults. Most products will
contain the insecticides permethrin or linalool which only hang around a
short period of time and will help kill the emerging adults from the
"cocoons" but the growth regulator in the products will be active a
number of months, but only effect the eggs and larvae.

You can get rid of a problem by only treating the pets with Frontline or
Advantage, but it takes time...if the company you hire truly has a steam
cleaner you should be able to stop the infestation if all areas are hit,
including under the beds and furniture cushions. But the fleas will be
back in a couple of weeks.

--
Lar

to email....get rid of the BUGS

"ByzeiwIG" wrote in message
...
Whenever I walk around the house, especially in
carpeted areas, fleas
attach themselves to my legs and feet. Worse for my
mother.
In the course of three or four days, we caught about
fifty fleas.
Instead of trying to kill them with our fingers, we
will pick them
off, and drown them in a big bowl of water.

Do electric flea traps work? I've vacuumed the
carpets twice, but
still have fleas. The vacuum is old and doesn't have
a very powerful
suction. SHould I get a steam vacuum? I want to avoid
using pesticides
and carpet powders. I would like to know if those
plug in flea traps
with glue traps attached, work.

I have a feeling I will have to order insecticides
and powder.

Yup, I think you're going to have to. Go the the store
and read the directions on different kinds and see what
you like. You'll likely have to do more than one
treatment also - there will be lots of eggs left over.
Are they ONLY in the home, or are they under it too?
If they're all over under it or around it, in the
soil/grass whatever, you're gtoing to have your work
cut out for you.

I'd suggest a trip to google.com and read up on the
various methods of flea controls.
No, the electric gizmos, traps etc. don't work for a
full fledged infestation which you seem to have.

HTH,

Pop

On Mon, 11 Jul 2005 18:54:16 -0500, Lar
wrote:

In article ,
says...
Do electric flea traps work? I've vacuumed the carpets twice, but
still have fleas. The vacuum is old and doesn't have a very powerful
suction. SHould I get a steam vacuum? I want to avoid using pesticides
and carpet powders. I would like to know if those plug in flea traps
with glue traps attached, work.

The adult fleas are only a percentage of the on going problem..there
will be eggs, larvae and pupae to deal with. An easy flea trap can be
made that will attract adults, but will not stop a infestation from
happening. Plug a night light in an outlet near the floor or place a
small lamp on the floor and place a pie pan with water (few drops of
dish soap optional) under the light.

Treating the pets is a must..the fleas will develop where the host
animal is spending time...the adults are on the animal feeding...laying
eggs dropping fecal matter (dried blood). Where ever the animal is
walking, laying around, eating, etc. the eggs and fecal matter will fall
off. The eggs hatch and the larvae will find the fecal matter and other
organic matter and feed, so these areas also need to be treated with an
insect growth regulator or IGR to stop the cycle by killing the eggs and
keeping the larvae from developing into adults. Most products will
contain the insecticides permethrin or linalool which only hang around a
short period of time and will help kill the emerging adults from the
"cocoons" but the growth regulator in the products will be active a
number of months, but only effect the eggs and larvae.

You can get rid of a problem by only treating the pets with Frontline or
Advantage, but it takes time...if the company you hire truly has a steam
cleaner you should be able to stop the infestation if all areas are hit,
including under the beds and furniture cushions. But the fleas will be
back in a couple of weeks.


No pets. A few months ago, a raccoon came down the chimney and gave
birth while we were on vacation. THe mother abandoned the babies,
which were perhaps a week old, since their eyes were closed.I got
the raccoons to a wildlife preserve. Anyway. My mom noticed a few
fleas. I didn't notice any. Fast forward a few months and the flea
infestation. My money is on the the mother raccoon being the flea
carrier. Man do these fleas multiply.

There is a product sold by Home Depot called Zep flea killer. Active
ingredient is Nylar, which is an IGR according to the net info.
SUpposed to be safe for mammals. Its a spray for carpets, furniture
and drapes, and supposed to last for 7 months.

There are IGR powders sold on the net which meld to the carpet fibers
and are supposed to be vacuum proof. Home Depot's website only showed
the Zep flea killer spray.

ByzeiwIG wrote:
Whenever I walk around the house, especially in carpeted areas, fleas
attach themselves to my legs and feet. Worse for my mother.
In the course of three or four days, we caught about fifty fleas.
Instead of trying to kill them with our fingers, we will pick them
off, and drown them in a big bowl of water.

Do electric flea traps work? I've vacuumed the carpets twice, but
still have fleas. The vacuum is old and doesn't have a very powerful
suction. SHould I get a steam vacuum? I want to avoid using pesticides
and carpet powders. I would like to know if those plug in flea traps
with glue traps attached, work.

I have a feeling I will have to order insecticides and powder.

Borax powder is said to dehydrate both the fleas and their eggs, thus
killing them and preventing further infestations.
I'd check into that. It's non-toxic to humans and normal house pets.
Also, it's cheaper than pesticides.


--
If you find a posting or message from myself offensive,
inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it. If you don't know
how to ignore a posting,complain to me and I will demonstrate.

On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 02:10:02 -0500, wrote:

I had this happen years ago. First, you got to get them off your pet.
Flea collars really help. Then get some flea spray made to be sprayed
on the pet. Get several cans. Thoroughly spray the pet. Then spray
the carpet and furniture with the same stuff. I did that once and the
fleas were gone. However, keep working on the pet, and keep a flea
collar on them.


No pet. Do you rmeember the brand of product you used, or what the
active ingredient was?

Thank You to all who responded to my dilemma.

"ByzeiwIG" wrote in message
...
Whenever I walk around the house, especially in carpeted areas, fleas
attach themselves to my legs and feet.

Get over your aversion to pesticides for one day. Go get yourself some flea
bombs. Their effect is residual, so you most likely will not have to
re-bomb. My recommendation is not to skimp either. Use one bomb per room
because the fog has a difficult time making it from one room to the next.
This can be an expensive proposition but I would go this route.
Bonnie in NJ

Gort wrote:
I have a feeling I will have to order insecticides and powder.

Borax powder is said to dehydrate both the fleas and their eggs, thus
killing them and preventing further infestations.
I'd check into that. It's non-toxic to humans and normal house pets.
Also, it's cheaper than pesticides.

It works. Almost 20 years ago I dropped a snow of Borax on the carpets in question
and scuffed it in. The fleas disappeared, and have not reappeared. The stuff
works forever, apparently.

This on the advice of a post to rec.pets long ago, said to have been advice of
a Florida vet.

There followed a string of reports of success, and some reports of failure from
the West Coast, so maybe the West Coast fleas are different. Ohio fleas succumb.

Then there followed the alarm posts, that Borax is toxic, toxic data sheets, etc.
etc., and the panic-inclined attempted to clean up all the applied Borax (good luck
getting it out of the carpet - that stuff is there to stay).

My first Doberman lived to 13 1/2 so it can't be too toxic. The follow-on Doberman
is 6 and going strong, without fleas by the way.

For all I know, the stuff is in fact toxic, but I'm not panic-inclined and it's
been a permanent flea fix for my house.

No flea collars or anything have been needed ever since the first application.

--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

Fleas are intolerable houseguests, but ones that aren't that hard to
evict.

Flea larvae growth hormone stuff is the big weapon, fairly harmless and
it LASTS a long time, but does nothng for existing adult fleas.
Patience or other ingredients will get them soon enough.

Decent performing upright vacuums (do best on floors) are less than
$100, get one and sprinkle some powder stuff then vacuum thoroughly.
When the fleas are snacking on you, something like 90% of the blood
comes right out of them as little lunch boxes for the larvae etc. in
the carpet to eat. Vacuum the bloodmeal up and keep the carpet dry with
sprinkled powder and you hit them where it counts. Anything left the
hormone stuff prevents from becoming an adult.

ByzeiwIG wrote:
Whenever I walk around the house, especially in carpeted areas, fleas
attach themselves to my legs and feet. Worse for my mother.
In the course of three or four days, we caught about fifty fleas.
Instead of trying to kill them with our fingers, we will pick them
off, and drown them in a big bowl of water.

Do electric flea traps work? I've vacuumed the carpets twice, but
still have fleas. The vacuum is old and doesn't have a very powerful
suction. SHould I get a steam vacuum? I want to avoid using pesticides
and carpet powders. I would like to know if those plug in flea traps
with glue traps attached, work.

I have a feeling I will have to order insecticides and powder.

Do you have a pet? When we treated our cat, with Advance or whatever it
was, the fleas disappeared. It's been a while, and the cat is gone, so
I don't recall the name of the stuff. When we got the first
prescription, the vet also advised dusting carpet with boric acid
powder, which we purchased from him in a rather large cannister. He
advised leaving it on a week, then vacuuming it up. As it turned out,
we did not need to use it. Trust me, bug bombs are worthless.
Vacuuming religiously and disposing of what you vacuum is important.
Eggs take about three days to hatch, I believe, and you have to kill the
newly hatched before they lay eggs.

Bonnie Jean wrote:
Get over your aversion to pesticides for one day. Go get yourself some flea
bombs. Their effect is residual, so you most likely will not have to
re-bomb. My recommendation is not to skimp either. Use one bomb per room
because the fog has a difficult time making it from one room to the next.
This can be an expensive proposition but I would go this route.


Not so expensive compared to the aggravation of flea bites. Back in the days of
my owning a cat, every mid summer I'd get eaten alive by the little *******s.
I'd toss the cat out and fog the house... like you said, one can for each room,
and come back in a couple of hours and air the place out. I'd powder down the
cat before he was let back in.

Then in 10 - 14 days I'd repeat it to get the eggs that were now hatching. That
generally took care of business until the following summer.

You can usually find foggers in three packs at the grocery store or home center.
It would work out to about $3/room if I recall correctly.

My new critter (a dog) doesn't seem to get fleas. I give her a pill every month
and life is good.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

Norminn wrote:
Do you have a pet? When we treated our cat, with Advance or whatever it
was, the fleas disappeared. It's been a while, and the cat is gone, so
I don't recall the name of the stuff. When we got the first
prescription, the vet also advised dusting carpet with boric acid
powder, which we purchased from him in a rather large cannister. He
advised leaving it on a week, then vacuuming it up. As it turned out,
we did not need to use it. Trust me, bug bombs are worthless.


They sure worked for me. The cat brought them in; the bug bombs took them out.
End of story.

I'm not suggesting foggers are the only way to rid oneself of fleas; I'm only
saying that it is one of the ways to do so, and it does work... particularly if
you'll repeat the spraying in a couple of weeks. The idea is to catch the newly
hatched fleas before they mature enough to lay their own eggs, breaking the
cycle.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

ByzeiwIG wrote:
Whenever I walk around the house, especially in carpeted areas, fleas
attach themselves to my legs and feet. Worse for my mother.
In the course of three or four days, we caught about fifty fleas.
Instead of trying to kill them with our fingers, we will pick them
off, and drown them in a big bowl of water.

I have a feeling I will have to order insecticides and powder.

Yes, of some sort. Regardless of what you eventually choose, be
prepared for the eradication process taking much longer than you think -
up to a year - because the flea eggs are viable for a long time. If you
have been thinking of getting new carpets, now is a good time...but get
rid of the old carpets and the fleas/larvae/eggs they are harboring
first.


--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

In article , says...
Borax powder is said to dehydrate both the fleas and their eggs, thus
killing them and preventing further infestations.
I'd check into that. It's non-toxic to humans and normal house pets.
Also, it's cheaper than pesticides.


Borax powders/dust are probably the most toxic application you can use
comapred to other solutions..along with it can be a pain for years
cleaning up dust afterwards.
--
Lar

to email....get rid of the BUGS

In article ,
says...
the raccoons to a wildlife preserve. Anyway. My mom noticed a few
fleas. I didn't notice any. Fast forward a few months and the flea
infestation. My money is on the the mother raccoon being the flea
carrier. Man do these fleas multiply.


There may be a new host animal hanging around that will need to be
addressed if the raccoon was months ago... Check the ingredients of the
Nylar can and make sure it also has an insecticide on the label, if not
you may want to release a fogger to kill the exposed adults for the
growth regulator will do nothing for them and the ones in the cocoon
stage.
--
Lar

to email....get rid of the BUGS

In article , says...
My recommendation is not to skimp either. Use one bomb per room
because the fog has a difficult time making it from one room to the next.
This can be an expensive proposition but I would go this route.
Bonnie in NJ



Never over do the flea bombs...they can be ignited by a spark or pilot
light.... then house goes boom.
--
Lar

to email....get rid of the BUGS

On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 05:43:37 -0400, "Bonnie Jean"
wrote:


"ByzeiwIG" wrote in message
.. .
Whenever I walk around the house, especially in carpeted areas, fleas
attach themselves to my legs and feet.

Get over your aversion to pesticides for one day. Go get yourself some flea
bombs. Their effect is residual, so you most likely will not have to
re-bomb. My recommendation is not to skimp either. Use one bomb per room
because the fog has a difficult time making it from one room to the next.
This can be an expensive proposition but I would go this route.
Bonnie in NJ


On my way to petsmart. Their online site lists Zodiac and Adams
foggers. One has IGR, don't know about the other one. 13 bucks for a
three pack. My mom's house is pretty big. I assume if we do this in a
kitchen, all pots, pans, glasses, ocntainers will have to be
completely covered or taken out.

I was thinking of spraying the carpets, drapes and furniture first
with IGR/adulticide combo sprays. If that doesn't work, nuke em!!!

Do that myself and it worked fine. No fleas in YEARS!

wrote:
Do that myself and it worked fine. No fleas in YEARS!


Do what, stupid? Lick your balls?

"Bonnie Jean" wrote:
"ByzeiwIG" wrote in message
...
Whenever I walk around the house, especially in carpeted areas, fleas
attach themselves to my legs and feet.

Get over your aversion to pesticides for one day. Go get yourself some
flea bombs. Their effect is residual, so you most likely will not have to
re-bomb. My recommendation is not to skimp either. Use one bomb per room
because the fog has a difficult time making it from one room to the next.
This can be an expensive proposition but I would go this route.
Bonnie in NJ
Yah, if you have pets, all their bedding and other places they hang out. We
also had to do the vehicles cause they often ride with us. So don't forget
there, too. Often though it's the yard or grass. Around our dog houses we
plant Hyssop, it's a natural flea repellent. (I've heard Horseradish is
too,if you make it liquid and spray it on carpet, but have never tried it
and have no reference for that remedy.) Around the outside of the house
hyssop and Marigold. No problem with flea's since the first year we moved
in, but that was enough. I think some years are worse than others. It's
those dang Asian ladybugs (Harmonia's)that gets to me.
2_biz
(nothing against flea bomb's at all!)

--
-

Buying Boric Acid from the vet, ouch, I bet that was fun. Everybody
should buy a can, but from a 99 cent store for a big one, the stuff is
dirt cheap. Also not to be confused with Borax, which is more a laundry
and plant type stuff.

I don't like bug bombs, and would only use one in our house for some
extreme issue.

Fleas live on the ground, so a direct local treatment is the best
option. I would also skip the poison and just use boric acid and growth
hormone.

Boric acid is a GREAT preventitive measure, lightly dust with it in all
the nooks, crannies, and backs of cabinets and most bug problems don't
get started.

In article ,
says...
On my way to petsmart. Their online site lists Zodiac and Adams
foggers. One has IGR, don't know about the other one. 13 bucks for a
three pack.

You would probably be better off using the carpet spray rather than a
fogger..though with the foggers you will kill other hiding
insects/spiders in the home.
--
Lar

to email....get rid of the BUGS

"Danglerb" wrote:
Buying Boric Acid from the vet, ouch, I bet that was fun. Everybody
should buy a can, but from a 99 cent store for a big one, the stuff is
dirt cheap. Also not to be confused with Borax, which is more a laundry
and plant type stuff.
Yah, I'm not to sure who you are replying to about "Buying Boric Acid from
the Vet." But your is to me, maybe my newsreader missed a post
somewhere? We used boric when we lived in the city, and before we had the
baby. Bottom line follow the directions as it can be harmful to kids,
plants and pets. Boric acid is good against bugs, no doubt. Ortho makes a
good product, mop up the floors and vacumm the carpets with-in 24 hrs afet
using boric diluted. Not to sound smart Alecky, but who would confuse Boric
with Borax. We all know Borax is the Zane Grey 20 mule team Boraxo stuff,
right (-: Boric attacks the bugs central nervous system after they crawl
through it, thus spreading it behind cab's and in cracks and crevises,
mostly roach hang-outs.


I don't like bug bombs, and would only use one in our house for some
extreme issue.
Yah, I hated it when the fleas became an extreme issue, but they did, and
the bombs controlled it to where alternatives (Boric,lauryl,clove, etc.)
then worked wonders.

Fleas live on the ground, so a direct local treatment is the best
option. I would also skip the poison and just use boric acid and growth
hormone.
My Shepherd is more the flea expert, but I'd venture to say you are mostly
correct about where they live. I won't be throwing his flea collar away
anytime soon though. And I'd guard him the plants and kids from any direct
treatment of any living space.

Boric acid is a GREAT preventitive measure, lightly dust with it in all
the nooks, crannies, and backs of cabinets and most bug problems don't
get started.
Boric acid has it's advantages and it's cheap. Not a cure all, but worth
the investment. To get completly rid of them...declare war and never
surrender. Good post Mike and good advice but should come with a caution
also. (imo)
2_biz

Norminn wrote:
Trust me, bug bombs are worthless.

Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:
They sure worked for me. The cat brought them in; the bug bombs took them
out.

They worked for me too. Stopped them dead in their tracks. But if you have a
pet you should get rid of the fleas on them the same day. If I am moving
into a new home that had a pet, I routinely bomb the place before I move in
to start off with a clean slate. I absolutely hate fleas and ticks.

"ByzeiwIG" wrote in message
On my way to petsmart. Their online site lists Zodiac and Adams
foggers. One has IGR, don't know about the other one. 13 bucks for a
three pack. My mom's house is pretty big. I assume if we do this in a
kitchen, all pots, pans, glasses, ocntainers will have to be
completely covered or taken out.

Yes, you'll have to protect dishes, etc from the fog. It may be less labor
intensive to use some masking tape around the cabinets. Personally I never
went that far....just made sure all the cabinet doors and drawers were shut
and nothing was out in the open. I haven't turn into a mutant yet, although
some of my friends would dispute that. But technically you should protect
dishes and pots.

If you feel more comfortable spraying the curtains, go ahead. Personally I
think the foggers will take care of it. If you do use the spray, I would
read the label to make sure it won't discolor or damage fabric. And these
foggers have residual effect. I never needed to re-fog a number of weeks
after the first time.

And if you have a pilot light you are supposed to extinguish it...I think.
(In response to the person who said your house could blow up.)

Just make sure you read and follow the directions on the can.

Bonnie

I have had fleas in a home a few times and I would recommend a
professional exterminator. That worked for me both times. Since you
don't have a pet this should be pretty easy. We had a cat so I would
send the cat to the vet for a flea shampoo while the house was being
treated by the exterminator.

Good luck.

Steve

. writes:
Not to sound smart Alecky, but who would confuse Boric with Borax.
you'd be supprised... although both are reasonable treatment for pests
and both are pretty safe for humans. (boric acid is used as an eye
wash iirc)

You can make a pretty good termite treatment form boric acid, borax,
and propylene glycol (pet-safe antifreeze).

commercially it sells for 80-90/gallon.... you can make it for about
$20. Google Search for bora-care and tim-bor if you are interested.

--
be safe.
flip
Ich habe keine Ahnung was das bedeutet, oder vielleicht doch?
Remove origin of the word spam from address to reply (leave "+")

Don't forget to spread an insecticide around the yard - - that's where they
come from
RJ
"Bonnie Jean" wrote in message
...
Norminn wrote:
Trust me, bug bombs are worthless.

Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:
They sure worked for me. The cat brought them in; the bug bombs took
them
out.

They worked for me too. Stopped them dead in their tracks. But if you have
a
pet you should get rid of the fleas on them the same day. If I am moving
into a new home that had a pet, I routinely bomb the place before I move
in to start off with a clean slate. I absolutely hate fleas and ticks.

On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 08:56:32 -0500, Lar
wrote:

In article , says...
My recommendation is not to skimp either. Use one bomb per room
because the fog has a difficult time making it from one room to the next.
This can be an expensive proposition but I would go this route.
Bonnie in NJ



Never over do the flea bombs...they can be ignited by a spark or pilot
light.... then house goes boom.

So should cutting off the electricity to the house via the circuit
breaker get rid of the pilot light ? THe directions on the Zodiac
fogger states to make sure elctrical appliances which cycle on and off
such as thermostats and refrigerators be shut off. Sam e with a pilot
light. I think the pilot light comes on automatically when the heater
is turned on. Not sure.

I tried the carpet powder, and it didn't work. Unless i didn't use
enough per carpet. I think it made the problem worse!!!!! I only
lightly sprinkled, and used one sweep of a broom to work it in.i USED
THREE CANS FOR 4 ROOMS and a hallway and a staircase. Maybe those one
gallon jugs of Zed flea sprays they sell at Home Depot would disperse
the IGR and adulticide better.Powder dispersion is not so easy. One
can of powder per room or rug?

Anyway, my mom is deathly afraid of the house blowing up if I use the
foggger, but that seems to be the best option for DIY. Ican't beiive
they made a product so freaking dangerous.

ByzeiwIG wrote:


...
Never over do the flea bombs...they can be ignited by a spark or pilot
light.... then house goes boom.

So should cutting off the electricity to the house via the circuit
breaker get rid of the pilot light ? ...

No. A pilot light is a small gas flame that is always on and serves
as the ignition source for the larger gas flame in aplliances like
gas furnaces, water heaters, ovens, etc.

If the house has no gas, the house has no pilot lights.

--

FF