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replacing door bell transformer
I need to replace the transformer for my door bell and I have some questions
on good wiring practices. The existing (defective) transformer is attached to a metal junction box in the middle of a cable whose primary duty seems to be providing power to the furnace fan motor. There is also a porcelain light bulb socket (luminaire seems too fancy a word for this fixture) attached directly to the 'broad' face of the junction box. This house is 40 years old so who knows what's been done around the wiring, I've had surprises before. I expect that when I lock out the breaker and open the junction box there will be 4 black wires on one wire nut (1 black wire coming in, 1 black wire going out, 1 black wire for the luminaire, and 1 black wire to existing transformer), 4 white wires on another wire nut (similar distribution as for black wires), and 3 grounds on a third wire nut (same as before except that the porcelain luminaire likely isn't grounded) or else attached to the metal box. Is this a realistic assumption for a properly designed connection? The reason I ask is that I had a another set of assumptions for a similar junction box that was on a switched circuit. Here the reality didn't match my preconceived notions; instead the white wire from the bathroom ventilator fan was attached to a sloppy-looking birds nest of ground wires; and that's the only way it would work. Also, is it all right to connect 4 wires with one wire nut? Information from Ideal shows UL listed wire combinations for number/size of conductors for each model number of Wire-Nut(R), so presumably this is okay. But is this commonly done as good practice and relatively safe? Would it be better to pigtail off so that I have 3 conductors under one wire nut with the pigtail connecting the existing light and the replacement transformer with another wire nut? thanks! |
#2
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Just note where the wires of the existing transformer are attached and
connect the new one the same. Make sure your wire nut connections are tight "Bill Green" wrote in message m... I need to replace the transformer for my door bell and I have some questions on good wiring practices. The existing (defective) transformer is attached to a metal junction box in the middle of a cable whose primary duty seems to be providing power to the furnace fan motor. There is also a porcelain light bulb socket (luminaire seems too fancy a word for this fixture) attached directly to the 'broad' face of the junction box. This house is 40 years old so who knows what's been done around the wiring, I've had surprises before. I expect that when I lock out the breaker and open the junction box there will be 4 black wires on one wire nut (1 black wire coming in, 1 black wire going out, 1 black wire for the luminaire, and 1 black wire to existing transformer), 4 white wires on another wire nut (similar distribution as for black wires), and 3 grounds on a third wire nut (same as before except that the porcelain luminaire likely isn't grounded) or else attached to the metal box. Is this a realistic assumption for a properly designed connection? The reason I ask is that I had a another set of assumptions for a similar junction box that was on a switched circuit. Here the reality didn't match my preconceived notions; instead the white wire from the bathroom ventilator fan was attached to a sloppy-looking birds nest of ground wires; and that's the only way it would work. Also, is it all right to connect 4 wires with one wire nut? Information from Ideal shows UL listed wire combinations for number/size of conductors for each model number of Wire-Nut(R), so presumably this is okay. But is this commonly done as good practice and relatively safe? Would it be better to pigtail off so that I have 3 conductors under one wire nut with the pigtail connecting the existing light and the replacement transformer with another wire nut? thanks! |
#3
Posted to alt.home.repair
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replacing door bell transformer
RBM wrote:
Just note where the wires of the existing transformer are attached and connect the new one the same. Make sure your wire nut connections are tight "Bill Green" wrote in message m... I need to replace the transformer for my door bell and I have some questions on good wiring practices. The existing (defective) transformer is attached to a metal junction box in the middle of a cable whose primary duty seems to be providing power to the furnace fan motor. There is also a porcelain light bulb socket (luminaire seems too fancy a word for this fixture) attached directly to the 'broad' face of the junction box. This house is 40 years old so who knows what's been done around the wiring, I've had surprises before. I expect that when I lock out the breaker and open the junction box there will be 4 black wires on one wire nut (1 black wire coming in, 1 black wire going out, 1 black wire for the luminaire, and 1 black wire to existing transformer), 4 white wires on another wire nut (similar distribution as for black wires), and 3 grounds on a third wire nut (same as before except that the porcelain luminaire likely isn't grounded) or else attached to the metal box. Is this a realistic assumption for a properly designed connection? The reason I ask is that I had a another set of assumptions for a similar junction box that was on a switched circuit. Here the reality didn't match my preconceived notions; instead the white wire from the bathroom ventilator fan was attached to a sloppy-looking birds nest of ground wires; and that's the only way it would work. Also, is it all right to connect 4 wires with one wire nut? Information from Ideal shows UL listed wire combinations for number/size of conductors for each model number of Wire-Nut(R), so presumably this is okay. But is this commonly done as good practice and relatively safe? Would it be better to pigtail off so that I have 3 conductors under one wire nut with the pigtail connecting the existing light and the replacement transformer with another wire nut? thanks! Hi, First, turn off 120V going to the x-former. I'd buy a heavy duty x-former which will last longer. It is just s step down x-former 120V AC to 24V AC. |
#4
Posted to alt.home.repair
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replacing door bell transformer
On Mar 21, 5:01�pm, Tony Hwang wrote:
RBM wrote: Just note where the wires of the existing transformer are attached and connect the new one the same. Make sure your wire nut connections are tight "Bill Green" wrote in message om... I need to replace the transformer for my door bell and I have some questions on good wiring practices. The existing (defective) transformer is attached to a metal junction box in the middle of a cable whose primary duty seems to be providing power to the furnace fan motor. There is also a porcelain light bulb socket (luminaire seems too fancy a word for this fixture) attached directly to the 'broad' face of the junction box. This house is 40 years old so who knows what's been done around the wiring, I've had surprises before. I expect that when I lock out the breaker and open the junction box there will be 4 black wires on one wire nut (1 black wire coming in, 1 black wire going out, 1 black wire for the luminaire, and 1 black wire to existing transformer), 4 white wires on another wire nut (similar distribution as for black wires), and 3 grounds on a third wire nut (same as before except that the porcelain luminaire likely isn't grounded) or else attached to the metal box. Is this a realistic assumption for a properly designed connection? The reason I ask is that I had a another set of assumptions for a similar junction box that was on a switched circuit. Here the reality didn't match my preconceived notions; instead the white wire from the bathroom ventilator fan was attached to a sloppy-looking birds nest of ground wires; and that's the only way it would work. Also, is it all right to connect 4 wires with one wire nut? Information from Ideal shows UL listed wire combinations for number/size of conductors for each model number of Wire-Nut(R), so presumably this is okay. But is this commonly done as good practice and relatively safe? Would it be better to pigtail off so that I have 3 conductors under one wire nut with the pigtail connecting the existing light and the replacement transformer with another wire nut? thanks! Hi, First, turn off 120V going to the x-former. I'd buy a heavy duty x-former which will last longer. It is just s step down x-former 120V AC to 24V AC.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Is the OP CERTAIN that transformer isnt for the furnace thermostat? its a logical place to be.... sometimes its easiest to abandon something old like this transformer and install a new one somewhere else, bell wire is cheap |
#5
Posted to alt.home.repair
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replacing door bell transformer
"Tony Hwang" wrote in message ... RBM wrote: Just note where the wires of the existing transformer are attached and connect the new one the same. Make sure your wire nut connections are tight "Bill Green" wrote in message m... I need to replace the transformer for my door bell and I have some questions on good wiring practices. The existing (defective) transformer is attached to a metal junction box in the middle of a cable whose primary duty seems to be providing power to the furnace fan motor. There is also a porcelain light bulb socket (luminaire seems too fancy a word for this fixture) attached directly to the 'broad' face of the junction box. This house is 40 years old so who knows what's been done around the wiring, I've had surprises before. I expect that when I lock out the breaker and open the junction box there will be 4 black wires on one wire nut (1 black wire coming in, 1 black wire going out, 1 black wire for the luminaire, and 1 black wire to existing transformer), 4 white wires on another wire nut (similar distribution as for black wires), and 3 grounds on a third wire nut (same as before except that the porcelain luminaire likely isn't grounded) or else attached to the metal box. Is this a realistic assumption for a properly designed connection? The reason I ask is that I had a another set of assumptions for a similar junction box that was on a switched circuit. Here the reality didn't match my preconceived notions; instead the white wire from the bathroom ventilator fan was attached to a sloppy-looking birds nest of ground wires; and that's the only way it would work. Also, is it all right to connect 4 wires with one wire nut? Information from Ideal shows UL listed wire combinations for number/size of conductors for each model number of Wire-Nut(R), so presumably this is okay. But is this commonly done as good practice and relatively safe? Would it be better to pigtail off so that I have 3 conductors under one wire nut with the pigtail connecting the existing light and the replacement transformer with another wire nut? thanks! Hi, First, turn off 120V going to the x-former. I'd buy a heavy duty x-former which will last longer. It is just s step down x-former 120V AC to 24V AC. I don't know where you retrieved this old post from, but, if it's a bell transformer, it isn't 24 volt, and if it is 24 volt, it would probably be for the heating system, but certainly not the doorbell |
#6
Posted to alt.home.repair
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replacing door bell transformer
On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 17:43:24 -0400, "RBM" wrote:
"Tony Hwang" wrote in message ... RBM wrote: Just note where the wires of the existing transformer are attached and connect the new one the same. Make sure your wire nut connections are tight "Bill Green" wrote in message m... I need to replace the transformer for my door bell and I have some questions on good wiring practices. The existing (defective) transformer is attached to a metal junction box in the middle of a cable whose primary duty seems to be providing power to the furnace fan motor. There is also a porcelain light bulb socket (luminaire seems too fancy a word for this fixture) attached directly to the 'broad' face of the junction box. This house is 40 years old so who knows what's been done around the wiring, I've had surprises before. I expect that when I lock out the breaker and open the junction box there will be 4 black wires on one wire nut (1 black wire coming in, 1 black wire going out, 1 black wire for the luminaire, and 1 black wire to existing transformer), 4 white wires on another wire nut (similar distribution as for black wires), and 3 grounds on a third wire nut (same as before except that the porcelain luminaire likely isn't grounded) or else attached to the metal box. Is this a realistic assumption for a properly designed connection? The reason I ask is that I had a another set of assumptions for a similar junction box that was on a switched circuit. Here the reality didn't match my preconceived notions; instead the white wire from the bathroom ventilator fan was attached to a sloppy-looking birds nest of ground wires; and that's the only way it would work. Also, is it all right to connect 4 wires with one wire nut? Information from Ideal shows UL listed wire combinations for number/size of conductors for each model number of Wire-Nut(R), so presumably this is okay. But is this commonly done as good practice and relatively safe? Would it be better to pigtail off so that I have 3 conductors under one wire nut with the pigtail connecting the existing light and the replacement transformer with another wire nut? thanks! Hi, First, turn off 120V going to the x-former. I'd buy a heavy duty x-former which will last longer. It is just s step down x-former 120V AC to 24V AC. I don't know where you retrieved this old post from, but, if it's a bell transformer, it isn't 24 volt, and if it is 24 volt, it would probably be for the heating system, but certainly not the doorbell SOME doorbells use 24 volts. Most are 18? |
#7
Posted to alt.home.repair
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replacing door bell transformer
wrote in message ... On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 17:43:24 -0400, "RBM" wrote: "Tony Hwang" wrote in message ... RBM wrote: Just note where the wires of the existing transformer are attached and connect the new one the same. Make sure your wire nut connections are tight "Bill Green" wrote in message m... I need to replace the transformer for my door bell and I have some questions on good wiring practices. The existing (defective) transformer is attached to a metal junction box in the middle of a cable whose primary duty seems to be providing power to the furnace fan motor. There is also a porcelain light bulb socket (luminaire seems too fancy a word for this fixture) attached directly to the 'broad' face of the junction box. This house is 40 years old so who knows what's been done around the wiring, I've had surprises before. I expect that when I lock out the breaker and open the junction box there will be 4 black wires on one wire nut (1 black wire coming in, 1 black wire going out, 1 black wire for the luminaire, and 1 black wire to existing transformer), 4 white wires on another wire nut (similar distribution as for black wires), and 3 grounds on a third wire nut (same as before except that the porcelain luminaire likely isn't grounded) or else attached to the metal box. Is this a realistic assumption for a properly designed connection? The reason I ask is that I had a another set of assumptions for a similar junction box that was on a switched circuit. Here the reality didn't match my preconceived notions; instead the white wire from the bathroom ventilator fan was attached to a sloppy-looking birds nest of ground wires; and that's the only way it would work. Also, is it all right to connect 4 wires with one wire nut? Information from Ideal shows UL listed wire combinations for number/size of conductors for each model number of Wire-Nut(R), so presumably this is okay. But is this commonly done as good practice and relatively safe? Would it be better to pigtail off so that I have 3 conductors under one wire nut with the pigtail connecting the existing light and the replacement transformer with another wire nut? thanks! Hi, First, turn off 120V going to the x-former. I'd buy a heavy duty x-former which will last longer. It is just s step down x-former 120V AC to 24V AC. I don't know where you retrieved this old post from, but, if it's a bell transformer, it isn't 24 volt, and if it is 24 volt, it would probably be for the heating system, but certainly not the doorbell SOME doorbells use 24 volts. Most are 18? Most chimes are 16, bells and buzzers are 6-8. I've never seen a 24, but maybe up in your neck of the woods |
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