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Maytag washing machine - balky spin
Maytag Model A606 Washing Machine. Sometimes, when the machine tries to
kick into the spin cycle, you can hear the motor strain as it starts to rotate the tub. And then CLICK - and stop. (I suspect the click is overtemp, because as the motor cools down, you can hear it reset with another click.) I thought perhaps some kind of brake might be stuck (like, when you open the lid during spin and the tub stops rapidly), but I can pull on the belts and everything is mostly free. I can easily rotate in the non-spin direction. Sometimes it'll feel like something is binding when I pull in the spin direction. When I get through that by hand, it usually fixes the problem for that spin cycle, but not always. I pulled the top water cover off the motor, and there's some kind of relay/switch on top of the motor that appears to be actuated by a pull in lever. (Is that a start capacitor type thing with some high torque phasing?) When all works properly, the pull in lever pulls in very quickly during motor start, but when there's a spin hang, the pull in lever does not pull in. Pulling the lever by hand when the motor is staining as it starts the tub in motion does not cause the tub to reach full spin. You can tell by sound that the motor isn't going to reach full spin - not only does it sound like it's straining, but there's a distinctive difference in the sound of the motor. (No normal whirring.) The motor will try for a few seconds and then stop. (In overheat, I presume.) One other variable to mess up the analysis: When we're in this "won't spin mode" sometimes the timer will keep going right past "OFF" and into the next cycles (Perm Press and Soak), although the washer won't actually perform those cycles. Is the timer somehow getting feedback from the motor? I could shotgun and replace the motor and timer, but don't want to spend all that money if there's a simple fix. Any ideas or more data I can gather? Thanks, Mike Palmer |
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MikePalmer wrote: Maytag Model A606 Washing Machine. Sometimes, when the machine tries to kick into the spin cycle, you can hear the motor strain as it starts to rotate the tub. And then CLICK - and stop. (I suspect the click is overtemp, because as the motor cools down, you can hear it reset with another click.) I thought perhaps some kind of brake might be stuck (like, when you open the lid during spin and the tub stops rapidly), but I can pull on the belts and everything is mostly free. I can easily rotate in the non-spin direction. Sometimes it'll feel like something is binding when I pull in the spin direction. When I get through that by hand, it usually fixes the problem for that spin cycle, but not always. I pulled the top water cover off the motor, and there's some kind of relay/switch on top of the motor that appears to be actuated by a pull in lever. (Is that a start capacitor type thing with some high torque phasing?) When all works properly, the pull in lever pulls in very quickly during motor start, but when there's a spin hang, the pull in lever does not pull in. Pulling the lever by hand when the motor is staining as it starts the tub in motion does not cause the tub to reach full spin. You can tell by sound that the motor isn't going to reach full spin - not only does it sound like it's straining, but there's a distinctive difference in the sound of the motor. (No normal whirring.) The motor will try for a few seconds and then stop. (In overheat, I presume.) One other variable to mess up the analysis: When we're in this "won't spin mode" sometimes the timer will keep going right past "OFF" and into the next cycles (Perm Press and Soak), although the washer won't actually perform those cycles. Is the timer somehow getting feedback from the motor? I could shotgun and replace the motor and timer, but don't want to spend all that money if there's a simple fix. Any ideas or more data I can gather? Thanks, Mike Palmer Hi, Make sure the motor track is free and lubricated...A copy: Maytag Dependable Care washer - won't spin: Make sure nothing is caught on top of the inner basket or between the inner and outer tank. The motor sits on a roller and track assembly with springs to help keep the belt tension. This track gets rusty and dirty and may need cleaning, the track/glides also need a lubricant to keep the track moving freely. http://www.applianceaid.com/images/maymotorrollers.JPG http://www.applianceaid.com/newpics/poli-lube.JPG If the motor has been damaged or overheated or has a dead spot, replace it.... http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=2754 jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com/ |
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