the previous owner of my circa 1900's home put a narrow cove crown
moulding up after he redrywalled the ceiling. that moulding is removed
and i am about to put up wide crown moulding. is a top and bottom
backer board advisable to eliminate the issues around stud finding? or
is it not worth the hassle? if so are the top / bottom backer boards
extended beyond the moulding edges? if they extend should i run the
exposed backer boards through my router to give it a profile? any
comments would be helpful - although i'm a handy fellow i've never
attempted costly crown moulding installs.

ty

Use a stud finder on the drywall, cheap... easy. Mark the stud
locations where the crown moulding will hide them

wrote:
the previous owner of my circa 1900's home put a narrow cove crown
moulding up after he redrywalled the ceiling. that moulding is removed
and i am about to put up wide crown moulding. is a top and bottom
backer board advisable to eliminate the issues around stud finding? or
is it not worth the hassle? if so are the top / bottom backer boards
extended beyond the moulding edges? if they extend should i run the
exposed backer boards through my router to give it a profile? any
comments would be helpful - although i'm a handy fellow i've never
attempted costly crown moulding installs.

Consider using construction glue to hold the new molding.

the previous owner of my circa 1900's home put a narrow cove crown
moulding up after he redrywalled the ceiling. that moulding is removed
and i am about to put up wide crown moulding. is a top and bottom
backer board advisable to eliminate the issues around stud finding? or
is it not worth the hassle? if so are the top / bottom backer boards
extended beyond the moulding edges? if they extend should i run the
exposed backer boards through my router to give it a profile? any
comments would be helpful - although i'm a handy fellow i've never
attempted costly crown moulding installs.


Stud-finding is not a big-deal, as long as you have enough of them to
nail to. Another thing to watch out for is to know exactly where your
electrical cables run so you can avoid hitting them with a nail. Most
moderns houses have predictable wiring, but who knows in your case.

" Consider using construction glue to hold the new molding."

Do you realize how narrow a moulding area you'd actually have to apply
construction adhesive to (I'm talking about the molding face that
actually contacts the wall/ceiling), assuming you were then able to
blindly find studs to nail into in order to adequately the molding in
place until the adhesive dried?

In crown applications on similar vintage homes as the OP, I've
nailed/glued strapping to the ceilings and walls. The nails penetrate
the lathe and hold the strapping in place until the adhesive dries.
Following that, there's always a solid surface to then nail into. Just
be sure not to place the strapping too close to any corner as it would
present problems when it was time to apply the molding.

Backer is a real good idea on an old house. Finding the studs is not a
problem. The waves and bows of the ceiling and walls make installation
difficult. With the backers you can strengthen everything out better. Yes
put a profile on the backer but if your walls are really bowed put up the
backer with out a profile and install a smaller trim piece under it. This
will help hide any irregularities.

wrote in message
ups.com...
the previous owner of my circa 1900's home put a narrow cove crown
moulding up after he redrywalled the ceiling. that moulding is removed
and i am about to put up wide crown moulding. is a top and bottom
backer board advisable to eliminate the issues around stud finding? or
is it not worth the hassle? if so are the top / bottom backer boards
extended beyond the moulding edges? if they extend should i run the
exposed backer boards through my router to give it a profile? any
comments would be helpful - although i'm a handy fellow i've never
attempted costly crown moulding installs.

ty