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Buell Boy
 
Posts: n/a
Default a few questions about deck construction

I've looked and looked on DIY and other sites and I can't seem to find
some simple deck construction answers. If you can assist please jump
in! I'm building a 1500 sq ft deck with composite. If you know of
websites with these specific drawings I'd be very greatful.


(1) My deck will have many levels. Most of the joists are 2x8, and it
seems most sites recommend a 7" rise. How are the joists best
constructed in that case? I'm thinking of overlapping the joists by 8",
then attaching 2 vertical 8x16 pieces to the outside with carriage
bolts. Then supporting the riser section with a 4x8 beam.

That's my own idea- like I said, I can't find drawings for a 2-level
joist design anywhere. If you have a website or advise please feel
free.

Like this: (o = carriage bolt)



-------------------
upper | o|----vertical boards on each side
joist | o |
------------------- ------------------------------
| o |
| o| lower joist
-------------------------------------
|||
|||beam
|||
-----
pier

Problem is- for say 20 joists, this is a LOT of construction, and a lot
of materials. Particularly if there are like 4 rises in one deck
section!




(2) I was planning to use piers to support the 4x4's. How deep should
these go? How wide? Round or square? Should the post be best attached
with those single-bolt standoffs, or with those stand-offs mounted into
wet concrete? We live in Florida. The deck will be about 28" above the
elevation.

(3) Can I use composite for rounded edges? I thought on some levels I
may try to round them.

(4) Is the flashing on the house supposed to go just over the joists,
or over the composite decking? I thought I might use like 10 inch
flashing over the joists by the house to keep rain away from the
foundation/ Would that work, or would it be bad for the joists?

(5) One site said to slope the deck away from the house, about 1" for
every 10'. Is this OK to slope it in both X and Y that way?

(6) What special considertations are there for decking around a large,
live tree?


Thanks!

BX1

  #2   Report Post  
DanG
 
Posts: n/a
Default


I am sorry, I could not follow what you were trying to describe.
You do know that 2x8s are 7 1/2" or less? They would work quite
well resting on each other. If you really need a smaller rise or
have larger changes of grade you can make multiple steps of 3 3/4.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Buell Boy" wrote in message
ups.com...
I've looked and looked on DIY and other sites and I can't seem
to find
some simple deck construction answers. If you can assist please
jump
in! I'm building a 1500 sq ft deck with composite. If you know
of
websites with these specific drawings I'd be very greatful.


(1) My deck will have many levels. Most of the joists are 2x8,
and it
seems most sites recommend a 7" rise. How are the joists best
constructed in that case? I'm thinking of overlapping the joists
by 8",
then attaching 2 vertical 8x16 pieces to the outside with
carriage
bolts. Then supporting the riser section with a 4x8 beam.

That's my own idea- like I said, I can't find drawings for a
2-level
joist design anywhere. If you have a website or advise please
feel
free.

Like this: (o = carriage bolt)



-------------------
upper | o|----vertical boards on each side
joist | o |
------------------- ------------------------------
| o |
| o| lower joist
-------------------------------------
|||
|||beam
|||
-----
pier

Problem is- for say 20 joists, this is a LOT of construction,
and a lot
of materials. Particularly if there are like 4 rises in one deck
section!




(2) I was planning to use piers to support the 4x4's. How deep
should
these go? How wide? Round or square? Should the post be best
attached
with those single-bolt standoffs, or with those stand-offs
mounted into
wet concrete? We live in Florida. The deck will be about 28"
above the
elevation.

(3) Can I use composite for rounded edges? I thought on some
levels I
may try to round them.

(4) Is the flashing on the house supposed to go just over the
joists,
or over the composite decking? I thought I might use like 10
inch
flashing over the joists by the house to keep rain away from the
foundation/ Would that work, or would it be bad for the joists?

(5) One site said to slope the deck away from the house, about
1" for
every 10'. Is this OK to slope it in both X and Y that way?

(6) What special considertations are there for decking around a
large,
live tree?


Thanks!

BX1



  #3   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Since you don't show a layout of the deck, one can only answer in
generalities.
Many levels & only 20 joists seem difficult to match.

(1) Place a beam along the changes in deck elevation. Frame the joists
into the beam using joist hangers or ledgers. As an example not
intended to be a structural solution place two 2x12 on edge at the
change in elevation. As it suits the arrangements, the top of the beam
can be set at the top of the upper or lower joist. If the upper joist
sits on the beam, a band board can be used to tie the joist ends
together and serve as finish.

(2) The masonry piers should be supported by and tied into continuous
footers. If you are near the water, you need to set the footers deep
enough to avoid undermining. If not, you need to set the footers on
undisturbed soil.
(3) Yo no intiendo jefe.

(4) Flashing must lap under the building paper or house wrap at its
upper edge. It should lap no less than 3 inches at a point 6 to 8
inches above the deck surface. It should then cover the ledger on which
the joists sit. A better approach for a low deck is to make the deck
independent of the house. Thus a 1/4 or 1/2 inch gap allows the house
wall as is.

(5) If the deck boards are set tight like a porch floor, sloping the
deck is helpful - mostly to insure that what is supposed to be dead
level doesn't happen to slope back against the house.

(5A) Setting the deck a half inch below any door threshold is critical.
This keeps wind blown rain partially away from the door threshold
assembly.

(5B) There really ought to be pan flashing below the threshold to keep
water out of the house floor and floor frame.

(6) Give the tree room to grow. Set piers and footings to cut as few
roots as possible.

  #4   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Since you don't show a layout of the deck, one can only answer in
generalities.
Many levels & only 20 joists seem difficult to match.

(1) Place a beam along the changes in deck elevation. Frame the joists
into the beam using joist hangers or ledgers. As an example not
intended to be a structural solution place two 2x12 on edge at the
change in elevation. As it suits the arrangements, the top of the beam
can be set at the top of the upper or lower joist. If the upper joist
sits on the beam, a band board can be used to tie the joist ends
together and serve as finish.

(2) The masonry piers should be supported by and tied into continuous
footers. If you are near the water, you need to set the footers deep
enough to avoid undermining. If not, you need to set the footers on
undisturbed soil.
(3) Yo no intiendo jefe.

(4) Flashing must lap under the building paper or house wrap at its
upper edge. It should lap no less than 3 inches at a point 6 to 8
inches above the deck surface. It should then cover the ledger on which
the joists sit. A better approach for a low deck is to make the deck
independent of the house. Thus a 1/4 or 1/2 inch gap allows the house
wall as is.

(5) If the deck boards are set tight like a porch floor, sloping the
deck is helpful - mostly to insure that what is supposed to be dead
level doesn't happen to slope back against the house.

(5A) Setting the deck a half inch below any door threshold is critical.
This keeps wind blown rain partially away from the door threshold
assembly.

(5B) There really ought to be pan flashing below the threshold to keep
water out of the house floor and floor frame.

(6) Give the tree room to grow. Set piers and footings to cut as few
roots as possible.

  #5   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Since you don't show a layout of the deck, one can only answer in
generalities.
Many levels & only 20 joists seem difficult to match.

(1) Place a beam along the changes in deck elevation. Frame the joists
into the beam using joist hangers or ledgers. As an example not
intended to be a structural solution place two 2x12 on edge at the
change in elevation. As it suits the arrangements, the top of the beam
can be set at the top of the upper or lower joist. If the upper joist
sits on the beam, a band board can be used to tie the joist ends
together and serve as finish.

(2) The masonry piers should be supported by and tied into continuous
footers. If you are near the water, you need to set the footers deep
enough to avoid undermining. If not, you need to set the footers on
undisturbed soil.
(3) Yo no intiendo jefe.

(4) Flashing must lap under the building paper or house wrap at its
upper edge. It should lap no less than 3 inches at a point 6 to 8
inches above the deck surface. It should then cover the ledger on which
the joists sit. A better approach for a low deck is to make the deck
independent of the house. Thus a 1/4 or 1/2 inch gap allows the house
wall as is.

(5) If the deck boards are set tight like a porch floor, sloping the
deck is helpful - mostly to insure that what is supposed to be dead
level doesn't happen to slope back against the house.

(5A) Setting the deck a half inch below any door threshold is critical.
This keeps wind blown rain partially away from the door threshold
assembly.

(5B) There really ought to be pan flashing below the threshold to keep
water out of the house floor and floor frame.

(6) Give the tree room to grow. Set piers and footings to cut as few
roots as possible.



  #6   Report Post  
Michelle
 
Posts: n/a
Default

www.lowes.com
select "design a deck"
after you answer all the questions, it will give you a 3-D drawing with
several views of a finished design

"Buell Boy" wrote in message
ups.com...
I've looked and looked on DIY and other sites and I can't seem to find
some simple deck construction answers. If you can assist please jump
in! I'm building a 1500 sq ft deck with composite. If you know of
websites with these specific drawings I'd be very greatful.


(1) My deck will have many levels. Most of the joists are 2x8, and it
seems most sites recommend a 7" rise. How are the joists best
constructed in that case? I'm thinking of overlapping the joists by 8",
then attaching 2 vertical 8x16 pieces to the outside with carriage
bolts. Then supporting the riser section with a 4x8 beam.

That's my own idea- like I said, I can't find drawings for a 2-level
joist design anywhere. If you have a website or advise please feel
free.

Like this: (o = carriage bolt)



-------------------
upper | o|----vertical boards on each side
joist | o |
------------------- ------------------------------
| o |
| o| lower joist
-------------------------------------
|||
|||beam
|||
-----
pier

Problem is- for say 20 joists, this is a LOT of construction, and a lot
of materials. Particularly if there are like 4 rises in one deck
section!




(2) I was planning to use piers to support the 4x4's. How deep should
these go? How wide? Round or square? Should the post be best attached
with those single-bolt standoffs, or with those stand-offs mounted into
wet concrete? We live in Florida. The deck will be about 28" above the
elevation.

(3) Can I use composite for rounded edges? I thought on some levels I
may try to round them.

(4) Is the flashing on the house supposed to go just over the joists,
or over the composite decking? I thought I might use like 10 inch
flashing over the joists by the house to keep rain away from the
foundation/ Would that work, or would it be bad for the joists?

(5) One site said to slope the deck away from the house, about 1" for
every 10'. Is this OK to slope it in both X and Y that way?

(6) What special considertations are there for decking around a large,
live tree?


Thanks!

BX1



  #7   Report Post  
Buell Boy
 
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Thank-You for this detail and to everyone.

I wonder- do you have a www site with a diagram of how the beam and
hangers are arranged at the change in elevation? Does the upper
elevation sit ON the beam and the lower HANG on the side of the beam?

THanks
BX1

  #8   Report Post  
longshot
 
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Default



--
I wonder- do you have a www site with a diagram of how the beam and
hangers are arranged at the change in elevation? Does the upper
elevation sit ON the beam and the lower HANG on the side of the beam?

THanks
BX1


I would overlap the top & beam to sit flush & place a few splice plates
across the gap


  #9   Report Post  
 
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Choose your deck elevations and attach the joists either way.
longshot says place one set of joists on top of the beam.
That's o.k. if you have enough clearance to the ground and if the step
height is o.k.
I could send you dwgs after I get back into town. in about a week.
TB

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