A few weeks ago the garbage disposal wall switch went out. It went
slowly--you could flick it a couple of times and it would work, then
finally stopped working completely. We replaced the switch and it
worked fine--for a couple of weeks. Then it did the exact same thing the
other switch did. No breakers tripped or anything else we noticed.
We've replaced the switch again and it is working. Could it possibly
have been two bad switches in a row? Or is something causing the
switches to fail? I'm getting paranoid about a fire starting if there
is something wrong with the electric wiring.

My best guess is that the switches you are using are not rated for motors.
When the motor starts,it uses around four times the amount of current it
takes to run it. Standard lighting switches are not designed to handle this
surge and could prematurely fail
"Suzanne" wrote in message ...
A few weeks ago the garbage disposal wall switch went out. It went
slowly--you could flick it a couple of times and it would work, then
finally stopped working completely. We replaced the switch and it worked
fine--for a couple of weeks. Then it did the exact same thing the other
switch did. No breakers tripped or anything else we noticed. We've
replaced the switch again and it is working. Could it possibly have been
two bad switches in a row? Or is something causing the switches to fail?
I'm getting paranoid about a fire starting if there is something wrong with
the electric wiring.

RBM is right. When you get another switch get the heaviest duty switch
you can find (20 Amp, Specification Grade) You will pay more for it,
but it will last longer. "Only a RICH Homeowner Can Afford a POOR
Switch (or anything else).

Stretch

Suzanne wrote:
A few weeks ago the garbage disposal wall switch went out. It went
slowly--you could flick it a couple of times and it would work, then
finally stopped working completely. We replaced the switch and it
worked fine--for a couple of weeks. Then it did the exact same thing
the other switch did. No breakers tripped or anything else we
noticed. We've replaced the switch again and it is working. Could it
possibly have been two bad switches in a row? Or is something causing
the switches to fail? I'm getting paranoid about a fire starting if
there is something wrong with the electric wiring.

I think RBM hit it. Don't use those 75¢ switches, go for the $2.50
ones. Look for commercial not builder quality and look for higher amperage
ratings.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia's Muire duit

Suzanne,

Have you tested the switch? It's possible that the motor brushes in your
disposal are worn out. If you know how to use a volt meter and own one then
test the switch.

Dave M.

"stretch" wrote in message
oups.com...
RBM is right. When you get another switch get the heaviest duty switch
you can find (20 Amp, Specification Grade) You will pay more for it,
but it will last longer. "Only a RICH Homeowner Can Afford a POOR
Switch (or anything else).

My GD is on a builders grade switch and has survived 22 years so far. So, I
have to question your explanation.

I agree with your assessment of cheap switches, but if two go in a short
period, it is likely something other than bad switches.

"David Martel" wrote in message
news
Suzanne,

Have you tested the switch? It's possible that the motor brushes in your
disposal are worn out. If you know how to use a volt meter and own one
then test the switch.

Dave M.


Dave.. Those motors do not have brushes. W W

David Martel wrote:

Suzanne,

Have you tested the switch? It's possible that the motor brushes in your
disposal are worn out. If you know how to use a volt meter and own one then
test the switch.

Dave M.



Brushes? You must be thinking of a auto starter motor or similar where
sometimes you can get a "dead" one working "one more time" by whacking
it hard so a slightly sticky brush jars in enough to touch the commutator.

Show me a home disposal with motor brushes in it and I'll buy you a
beer. The starter switch sticking or having bad contacts maybe, but not
brushes, 'cause there aren't any.

I'll go along with testing the switch, there just might be something
else opening and closing the circuit like a loose wirenutted splice.

You are correct, someone with a VOM and an understanding of basic
circuit theory could open stuff up carefully and determine for sure
whether it's really the switch.

Funny about switches though. When we built our home 20 years ago I
remember putting in my lists of "must do" things in the purchase
agreement that the disposal should be controlled by a heavy duty switch.
Of course, the installing electrician used the same cheap type as he did
for all the lighting circuits. I made them fix that. We're on our third
disposal now, but that switch is still original. G

Speaking of wirenutted splices. I had two new Trane heat pump
compressors/evaporator units installed at our home last week replacing
the 20 year old Tranes which lived longer than I ever believed they
could. One unit stopped working the day after they got through
installing it. The cause? A lousy wirenutted splice on one of the 230
volt leads.

I found that one myself, right inside the fused disconnect for that
unit, but I also found that the "Trane Certified Comfort Specialist" had
to extend the control leads. (Because the old units had their control
terminals near their tops and the new ones have them much lower down.)

He used the fused disconnect for that unit as a splice box for
wirenutting the extension to those control leads rather than adding a
small weatherproof box to put those splices in. Just punched out a
knockout at the back of the box to run the leads in and out, no grommet,
no weather sealing. At least the angle of the siding kept them from
being pinched behind the box. G

http://home.comcast.net/~jwisnia18/temp/box1.jpg

Low and high voltage circuits in the same box? Code? What code? It works
doesn't it?

He is coming back tomorrow to make the job right before I'll pay for it.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"

RBM wrote:

My best guess is that the switches you are using are not rated for motors.
When the motor starts,it uses around four times the amount of current it
takes to run it. Standard lighting switches are not designed to handle this
surge and could prematurely fail
"Suzanne" wrote in message ...


A few weeks ago the garbage disposal wall switch went out. It went
slowly--you could flick it a couple of times and it would work, then
finally stopped working completely. We replaced the switch and it worked
fine--for a couple of weeks. Then it did the exact same thing the other
switch did. No breakers tripped or anything else we noticed. We've
replaced the switch again and it is working. Could it possibly have been
two bad switches in a row? Or is something causing the switches to fail?
I'm getting paranoid about a fire starting if there is something wrong with
the electric wiring.






The switch I used to replace the first one that went was your standard
Lowe's switch--I think it was about $4-5. But the switch before it had
been in place for at least 4 years. We bought the house in 2001 and
this is the first time we've had switch problems. Maybe I replaced a
heavy duty switch that went after 10 years of use, with a regular one?
I never thought to look at the first one that went.

There was one odd thing, though. The wires that go into the switch
would almost not fit in the holes. We had to really force them in.

There was one odd thing, though. The wires that go into the switch would almost not fit in the holes. We had to really force them in.

Geez I hope you're kidding.

toller wrote:


There was one odd thing, though. The wires that go into the switch
would almost not fit in the holes. We had to really force them in.

Geez I hope you're kidding.

I'm not. They are round copper wires.

You used the push in terminals on the switch. They are OK for low
current aplications, but I would use the side screws to attach the
wires the next time.

Stretch

Suzanne wrote:
toller wrote:


There was one odd thing, though. The wires that go into the switch
would almost not fit in the holes. We had to really force them in.

Geez I hope you're kidding.

I'm not. They are round copper wires.

It's not the wires that are the problem here. Those push in connectors
are known for a lot of problems. I suggest you not use them at all, and
certainly not for any high amp loads. Use the screw down connectors as they
are much more secure. You will not even find those push in connections on
commercial grade or better grade devices.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia's Muire duit