David Martel wrote:

Suzanne,

Have you tested the switch? It's possible that the motor brushes in your
disposal are worn out. If you know how to use a volt meter and own one then
test the switch.

Dave M.



Brushes? You must be thinking of a auto starter motor or similar where
sometimes you can get a "dead" one working "one more time" by whacking
it hard so a slightly sticky brush jars in enough to touch the commutator.

Show me a home disposal with motor brushes in it and I'll buy you a
beer. The starter switch sticking or having bad contacts maybe, but not
brushes, 'cause there aren't any.

I'll go along with testing the switch, there just might be something
else opening and closing the circuit like a loose wirenutted splice.

You are correct, someone with a VOM and an understanding of basic
circuit theory could open stuff up carefully and determine for sure
whether it's really the switch.

Funny about switches though. When we built our home 20 years ago I
remember putting in my lists of "must do" things in the purchase
agreement that the disposal should be controlled by a heavy duty switch.
Of course, the installing electrician used the same cheap type as he did
for all the lighting circuits. I made them fix that. We're on our third
disposal now, but that switch is still original. G

Speaking of wirenutted splices. I had two new Trane heat pump
compressors/evaporator units installed at our home last week replacing
the 20 year old Tranes which lived longer than I ever believed they
could. One unit stopped working the day after they got through
installing it. The cause? A lousy wirenutted splice on one of the 230
volt leads.

I found that one myself, right inside the fused disconnect for that
unit, but I also found that the "Trane Certified Comfort Specialist" had
to extend the control leads. (Because the old units had their control
terminals near their tops and the new ones have them much lower down.)

He used the fused disconnect for that unit as a splice box for
wirenutting the extension to those control leads rather than adding a
small weatherproof box to put those splices in. Just punched out a
knockout at the back of the box to run the leads in and out, no grommet,
no weather sealing. At least the angle of the siding kept them from
being pinched behind the box. G

http://home.comcast.net/~jwisnia18/temp/box1.jpg

Low and high voltage circuits in the same box? Code? What code? It works
doesn't it?

He is coming back tomorrow to make the job right before I'll pay for it.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"