I have been reading on all sort of issues and remedies that people
have been suggesting for adding a 3rd ground wire to the outlets.
since the ductwork is steel, as long as you run downstairs and ground
the ductwork to the panel ground, can't you just connect the 3rd wire
of the outlets to the nearest duct outlet using a metal screw?
if this is against the code, is there any reason why? I'm assuming the
ducting is as good a conductor as a 14 wire.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have been reading on all sort of issues and remedies that people
have been suggesting for adding a 3rd ground wire to the outlets.
since the ductwork is steel, as long as you run downstairs and ground
the ductwork to the panel ground, can't you just connect the 3rd wire
of the outlets to the nearest duct outlet using a metal screw?
if this is against the code, is there any reason why? I'm assuming the
ducting is as good a conductor as a 14 wire.

On the off chance this isn't a troll- Bad Assumption. There are many, many
joints in the ductwork, not all metal to metal in all cases, but all rusting
away for many years, and all flexing year round with air pressure, temp, and
humidity changes. Even if it tests out fine at 4 pm, at 2 am after the
system cools down, it may or may not have a reliable connection.

Better to have a known ungrounded system, than a system with an erratic
ground. Rewire it properly, or live with it as is. Not to mention all the
usual cautions about code violations, inability to sell the house like that,
and the insurance company laughing at you if there is a fire.

aem sends....

On Apr 25, 9:30 am, wrote:
I have been reading on all sort of issues and remedies that people
have been suggesting for adding a 3rd ground wire to the outlets.
since the ductwork is steel, as long as you run downstairs and ground
the ductwork to the panel ground, can't you just connect the 3rd wire
of the outlets to the nearest duct outlet using a metal screw?
if this is against the code, is there any reason why? I'm assuming the
ducting is as good a conductor as a 14 wire.


I do not think this is a very good idea. If you have a ground fault
the metal duct will be energized that that can be hazardous. The
correct way it pulling a ground wire through the conduit and
connecting it to the ground bar in the panel as well as also bonding
the metal conduit to the ground wire.

On 25 Apr 2007 09:30:27 -0700, wrote:

I have been reading on all sort of issues and remedies that people
have been suggesting for adding a 3rd ground wire to the outlets.

Why? It was safe enough in the past without a ground wire. If you
want more safety, install a gfci and be done with it; if you mark it
"no equipment ground" it might even meet code.

Heavens, I don't know how we all survived before 3-pronged plugs on
everything!

On Apr 26, 3:11 am, Rookie_Remodeler wrote:
On Apr 25, 9:30 am, wrote:

I have been reading on all sort of issues and remedies that people
have been suggesting for adding a 3rd ground wire to the outlets.
since the ductwork is steel, as long as you run downstairs and ground
the ductwork to the panel ground, can't you just connect the 3rd wire
of the outlets to the nearest duct outlet using a metal screw?
if this is against the code, is there any reason why? I'm assuming the
ducting is as good a conductor as a 14 wire.

I do not think this is a very good idea. If you have a ground fault
the metal duct will be energized that that can be hazardous. The
correct way it pulling a ground wire through the conduit and
connecting it to the ground bar in the panel as well as also bonding
the metal conduit to the ground wire.

Pulling the ground wire through what conduit? He has ductwork, not a
conduit.
Using a duct for a ground is not only a very bad idea, it's also a
code violation and
will get quickly flagged on any home inspection.

Thu, 26 Apr 2007 09:22:39 -0500 from Chris Hill chill_mapsfree_000
@centurytel.net:
Why? It was safe enough in the past without a ground wire. If you
want more safety, install a gfci and be done with it; if you mark it
"no equipment ground" it might even meet code.

Funnily enough, at my home maintenance class tonight the teacher
happened to mention that grounding is good but GFCI provides similar
protection if grounding is impractical.(*) He said if it's not
actually grounded it must be stickered but will then meet code.


(*) The class is aimed at people who bought existing homes,
especially older homes, so there may be only two-connector wire in
the wals and rewiring would be a considerable expnse.

--
Stan Brown, Oak Road Systems, Tompkins County, New York, USA
http://OakRoadSystems.com/

On Apr 26, 8:41 pm, Stan Brown wrote:
Thu, 26 Apr 2007 09:22:39 -0500 from Chris Hill chill_mapsfree_000
@centurytel.net:

Why? It was safe enough in the past without a ground wire. If you
want more safety, install a gfci and be done with it; if you mark it
"no equipment ground" it might even meet code.

Funnily enough, at my home maintenance class tonight the teacher
happened to mention that grounding is good but GFCI provides similar
protection if grounding is impractical.(*)

A GFCI doesn't provide similar protection to grounding. With
grounding, you could grab a hot wire in one hand, grab the ground with
the other and the circuit will not trip unless you exceed the breaker
rating, 15 amps, 20, etc.. which is several orders of magnitude more
than it takes to kill you. With a GFCI, a few milliamps of current
flow, far less than it takes to kill you, from hot to ground will
trip it. Grounding basicly makes sure that any metal components of a
fixture or 3 pronged appliance will not be at a higher potential than
surrounding metal, like a wall plate or water pipe. But the
protection of a GFCI is far superior. A hair dryer falling into a
sink or bathtub is a classic example of an accident that a GFCI can
save you from, but a grounded outlet will not.






He said if it's not
actually grounded it must be stickered but will then meet code.

That's interesting. I'm not aware of any code reqt to go back and
label existing old non grounded outlets. And I'm sure you can't put
in new ones and pass inspection, with or without a label.




(*) The class is aimed at people who bought existing homes,
especially older homes, so there may be only two-connector wire in
the wals and rewiring would be a considerable expnse.

--
Stan Brown, Oak Road Systems, Tompkins County, New York, USA
http://OakRoadSystems.com/