"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 20:25:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 16:25:19 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Wed, 21 May 2014 13:26:32 +0100, Daniel
wrote:

On 21/05/14 02:21, Ian Field wrote:








Sorry, your bug zapper already had a PFC capacitor *AND* you had to
add
"electronic ballast"!!

Something seems wrong there!!!

Electronic ballasts are more efficient. And the non-electronic one
probably wore out.

The ****wit electrician that installed the luminare fitted the wrong
ballast, from day one the florescent tube did a fair bit of buzzing and
flickering before it started - it got so much worse that I had a
problem
waiting for the light to come on so I could ****!

I tried an electronic starter, there was still a long wait but at least
the
light came on eventually without a major drama.

When the tube refused to strike at all, I bought a new tube and an
electronic ballast on Ebay. The old tube worked OK with the electronic
ballast and I got more or less its life expectancy from there.

When the fire alarm contractors did the corridor lights, I won a couple
of
spare electronic ballasts and tubes, as well as the photo-sensor I
mentioned
on chatter.

When one of my fluorescent fittings dies, I remove the fitting and fit
something that takes LEDs.

The housing association insisted on a splashproof luminare in the bog - I
only just managed to persuade the electrician not to put one in the
kitchen
too.

Who gives a **** what they insist on? When he leaves, remove it.

A few years ago Morrisons did a special offer of CFLs for 99p - then
extended the offer to buy one get one free, at that price I filled a
couple
of carrier bags.

While LED bulbs are still at least £9.99 and I'd need 3 to give the same
light as a CFL, there isn't much incentive to make the change.

£15 gives you 150W equivalent. £10 gives you 100W equivalent. £3 gives
you 50W equivalent. And that's including postage.

There's not much point figuring out a conversion for the enclosed unit
that
I have 2 spare ballasts and 2 spare tubes for - way back when I bought
replacement parts, there weren't the options that are available now.

Might start visiting the dump again - if I can salvage a few GU10
fittings,
Home Bargains sometimes have 5W bulbs that are allegedly equal to 40W - 3
of
those in the bog fitting should be plenty.

LEDs that fit in GU10s run very hot and don't last long. I've gone off
CREE LEDs and go for the corn on the cob ones. Hundreds of tiny SMD LEDs.

HB have had 2 types - a 4W with 4 SMD LEDs and a very tiny switcher PCB
inside the body, and a 5W one with 24 simpler SMD LEDs and a wattless
dropper.

Several in an enclosure could be a heat problem, so I'd prefer the watless
dropper type when they have any in.

On Wed, 21 May 2014 21:51:54 +0100, Ian Field wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 20:25:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Wed, 21 May 2014 16:25:19 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news










The ****wit electrician that installed the luminare fitted the wrong
ballast, from day one the florescent tube did a fair bit of buzzing and
flickering before it started - it got so much worse that I had a
problem
waiting for the light to come on so I could ****!

I tried an electronic starter, there was still a long wait but at least
the
light came on eventually without a major drama.

When the tube refused to strike at all, I bought a new tube and an
electronic ballast on Ebay. The old tube worked OK with the electronic
ballast and I got more or less its life expectancy from there.

When the fire alarm contractors did the corridor lights, I won a couple
of
spare electronic ballasts and tubes, as well as the photo-sensor I
mentioned
on chatter.

When one of my fluorescent fittings dies, I remove the fitting and fit
something that takes LEDs.

The housing association insisted on a splashproof luminare in the bog - I
only just managed to persuade the electrician not to put one in the
kitchen
too.

Who gives a **** what they insist on? When he leaves, remove it.

A few years ago Morrisons did a special offer of CFLs for 99p - then
extended the offer to buy one get one free, at that price I filled a
couple
of carrier bags.

While LED bulbs are still at least £9.99 and I'd need 3 to give the same
light as a CFL, there isn't much incentive to make the change.

£15 gives you 150W equivalent. £10 gives you 100W equivalent. £3 gives
you 50W equivalent. And that's including postage.

There's not much point figuring out a conversion for the enclosed unit
that
I have 2 spare ballasts and 2 spare tubes for - way back when I bought
replacement parts, there weren't the options that are available now.

Might start visiting the dump again - if I can salvage a few GU10
fittings,
Home Bargains sometimes have 5W bulbs that are allegedly equal to 40W - 3
of
those in the bog fitting should be plenty.

LEDs that fit in GU10s run very hot and don't last long. I've gone off
CREE LEDs and go for the corn on the cob ones. Hundreds of tiny SMD LEDs.

HB have had 2 types - a 4W with 4 SMD LEDs and a very tiny switcher PCB
inside the body, and a 5W one with 24 simpler SMD LEDs and a wattless
dropper.

Several in an enclosure could be a heat problem, so I'd prefer the watless
dropper type when they have any in.

I'd recommend you go for whatever has more LEDs. The big 1-2W LEDs simply cannot be cooled well enough.

--
The man who fell into an upholstery machine is fully recovered.

On Wed, 21 May 2014 21:51:54 +0100, Ian Field wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 20:25:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Wed, 21 May 2014 16:25:19 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news










The ****wit electrician that installed the luminare fitted the wrong
ballast, from day one the florescent tube did a fair bit of buzzing and
flickering before it started - it got so much worse that I had a
problem
waiting for the light to come on so I could ****!

I tried an electronic starter, there was still a long wait but at least
the
light came on eventually without a major drama.

When the tube refused to strike at all, I bought a new tube and an
electronic ballast on Ebay. The old tube worked OK with the electronic
ballast and I got more or less its life expectancy from there.

When the fire alarm contractors did the corridor lights, I won a couple
of
spare electronic ballasts and tubes, as well as the photo-sensor I
mentioned
on chatter.

When one of my fluorescent fittings dies, I remove the fitting and fit
something that takes LEDs.

The housing association insisted on a splashproof luminare in the bog - I
only just managed to persuade the electrician not to put one in the
kitchen
too.

Who gives a **** what they insist on? When he leaves, remove it.

A few years ago Morrisons did a special offer of CFLs for 99p - then
extended the offer to buy one get one free, at that price I filled a
couple
of carrier bags.

While LED bulbs are still at least £9.99 and I'd need 3 to give the same
light as a CFL, there isn't much incentive to make the change.

£15 gives you 150W equivalent. £10 gives you 100W equivalent. £3 gives
you 50W equivalent. And that's including postage.

There's not much point figuring out a conversion for the enclosed unit
that
I have 2 spare ballasts and 2 spare tubes for - way back when I bought
replacement parts, there weren't the options that are available now.

Might start visiting the dump again - if I can salvage a few GU10
fittings,
Home Bargains sometimes have 5W bulbs that are allegedly equal to 40W - 3
of
those in the bog fitting should be plenty.

LEDs that fit in GU10s run very hot and don't last long. I've gone off
CREE LEDs and go for the corn on the cob ones. Hundreds of tiny SMD LEDs.

HB have had 2 types - a 4W with 4 SMD LEDs and a very tiny switcher PCB
inside the body, and a 5W one with 24 simpler SMD LEDs and a wattless
dropper.

Several in an enclosure could be a heat problem, so I'd prefer the watless
dropper type when they have any in.

Look on Ebay, there are much cheaper better ones. But buy them from a UK seller who is registered in the UK (not just posting from a port in the UK). Otherwise the distance selling regulations won't help you if they fail.

--
"Click cancel to discontinue starting" - Mac OS 9

"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 21:51:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 20:25:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Wed, 21 May 2014 16:25:19 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news










The ****wit electrician that installed the luminare fitted the wrong
ballast, from day one the florescent tube did a fair bit of buzzing
and
flickering before it started - it got so much worse that I had a
problem
waiting for the light to come on so I could ****!

I tried an electronic starter, there was still a long wait but at
least
the
light came on eventually without a major drama.

When the tube refused to strike at all, I bought a new tube and an
electronic ballast on Ebay. The old tube worked OK with the
electronic
ballast and I got more or less its life expectancy from there.

When the fire alarm contractors did the corridor lights, I won a
couple
of
spare electronic ballasts and tubes, as well as the photo-sensor I
mentioned
on chatter.

When one of my fluorescent fittings dies, I remove the fitting and fit
something that takes LEDs.

The housing association insisted on a splashproof luminare in the bog -
I
only just managed to persuade the electrician not to put one in the
kitchen
too.

Who gives a **** what they insist on? When he leaves, remove it.

A few years ago Morrisons did a special offer of CFLs for 99p - then
extended the offer to buy one get one free, at that price I filled a
couple
of carrier bags.

While LED bulbs are still at least £9.99 and I'd need 3 to give the
same
light as a CFL, there isn't much incentive to make the change.

£15 gives you 150W equivalent. £10 gives you 100W equivalent. £3 gives
you 50W equivalent. And that's including postage.

There's not much point figuring out a conversion for the enclosed unit
that
I have 2 spare ballasts and 2 spare tubes for - way back when I bought
replacement parts, there weren't the options that are available now.

Might start visiting the dump again - if I can salvage a few GU10
fittings,
Home Bargains sometimes have 5W bulbs that are allegedly equal to 40W -
3
of
those in the bog fitting should be plenty.

LEDs that fit in GU10s run very hot and don't last long. I've gone off
CREE LEDs and go for the corn on the cob ones. Hundreds of tiny SMD
LEDs.

HB have had 2 types - a 4W with 4 SMD LEDs and a very tiny switcher PCB
inside the body, and a 5W one with 24 simpler SMD LEDs and a wattless
dropper.

Several in an enclosure could be a heat problem, so I'd prefer the
watless
dropper type when they have any in.

I'd recommend you go for whatever has more LEDs. The big 1-2W LEDs simply
cannot be cooled well enough.

The 4W one has 4x lens capped LEDs with a molded lens plate that fits over
the lot so you don't get 4 little beams, the 5W variety has 24 simple SMD
LEDs with no lens as such - much better spread of light IWHT.

I estimated that each of the 24 LEDs is dissipating around 200mW, I saw an
ad for very similar looking parts that suggested they might be rated 600mW.

No surprise that many LEDs, closely packed with not a lot in the way of
heatsink would be derated to allow for heat generation.

On Wed, 21 May 2014 22:20:36 +0100, Ian Field wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 21:51:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Wed, 21 May 2014 20:25:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news












The housing association insisted on a splashproof luminare in the bog -
I
only just managed to persuade the electrician not to put one in the
kitchen
too.

Who gives a **** what they insist on? When he leaves, remove it.

A few years ago Morrisons did a special offer of CFLs for 99p - then
extended the offer to buy one get one free, at that price I filled a
couple
of carrier bags.

While LED bulbs are still at least £9.99 and I'd need 3 to give the
same
light as a CFL, there isn't much incentive to make the change.

£15 gives you 150W equivalent. £10 gives you 100W equivalent. £3 gives
you 50W equivalent. And that's including postage.

There's not much point figuring out a conversion for the enclosed unit
that
I have 2 spare ballasts and 2 spare tubes for - way back when I bought
replacement parts, there weren't the options that are available now.

Might start visiting the dump again - if I can salvage a few GU10
fittings,
Home Bargains sometimes have 5W bulbs that are allegedly equal to 40W -
3
of
those in the bog fitting should be plenty.

LEDs that fit in GU10s run very hot and don't last long. I've gone off
CREE LEDs and go for the corn on the cob ones. Hundreds of tiny SMD
LEDs.

HB have had 2 types - a 4W with 4 SMD LEDs and a very tiny switcher PCB
inside the body, and a 5W one with 24 simpler SMD LEDs and a wattless
dropper.

Several in an enclosure could be a heat problem, so I'd prefer the
watless
dropper type when they have any in.

I'd recommend you go for whatever has more LEDs. The big 1-2W LEDs simply
cannot be cooled well enough.

The 4W one has 4x lens capped LEDs with a molded lens plate that fits over
the lot so you don't get 4 little beams,

That sounds like CREE LEDs. The kind I have in GU10 that last about 4-6 months.

the 5W variety has 24 simple SMD
LEDs with no lens as such - much better spread of light IWHT.

Yes. I like the corn on the cob as the light comes out all round it and the end, just like a CFL.

I estimated that each of the 24 LEDs is dissipating around 200mW, I saw an
ad for very similar looking parts that suggested they might be rated 600mW.

No surprise that many LEDs, closely packed with not a lot in the way of
heatsink would be derated to allow for heat generation.

The corn on the cobs I have have the LEDs (and the solder joints with up to 150V DC!) exposed.

--
In the Nintendo GameCube instruction manual:
"Do not attempt to stick head inside deck, which may result in injury"

"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 22:20:36 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 21:51:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Wed, 21 May 2014 20:25:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news












The housing association insisted on a splashproof luminare in the
bog -
I
only just managed to persuade the electrician not to put one in the
kitchen
too.

Who gives a **** what they insist on? When he leaves, remove it.

A few years ago Morrisons did a special offer of CFLs for 99p - then
extended the offer to buy one get one free, at that price I filled a
couple
of carrier bags.

While LED bulbs are still at least £9.99 and I'd need 3 to give the
same
light as a CFL, there isn't much incentive to make the change.

£15 gives you 150W equivalent. £10 gives you 100W equivalent. £3
gives
you 50W equivalent. And that's including postage.

There's not much point figuring out a conversion for the enclosed
unit
that
I have 2 spare ballasts and 2 spare tubes for - way back when I
bought
replacement parts, there weren't the options that are available now.

Might start visiting the dump again - if I can salvage a few GU10
fittings,
Home Bargains sometimes have 5W bulbs that are allegedly equal to
40W -
3
of
those in the bog fitting should be plenty.

LEDs that fit in GU10s run very hot and don't last long. I've gone
off
CREE LEDs and go for the corn on the cob ones. Hundreds of tiny SMD
LEDs.

HB have had 2 types - a 4W with 4 SMD LEDs and a very tiny switcher PCB
inside the body, and a 5W one with 24 simpler SMD LEDs and a wattless
dropper.

Several in an enclosure could be a heat problem, so I'd prefer the
watless
dropper type when they have any in.

I'd recommend you go for whatever has more LEDs. The big 1-2W LEDs
simply
cannot be cooled well enough.

The 4W one has 4x lens capped LEDs with a molded lens plate that fits
over
the lot so you don't get 4 little beams,

That sounds like CREE LEDs. The kind I have in GU10 that last about 4-6
months.

the 5W variety has 24 simple SMD
LEDs with no lens as such - much better spread of light IWHT.

Yes. I like the corn on the cob as the light comes out all round it and
the end, just like a CFL.

They're on a flat disc, not corn cob. Apart from H4 replacements I've only
seen corn cobs advertised in the Indian EFY magazine.

"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 21:51:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 20:25:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Wed, 21 May 2014 16:25:19 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news










The ****wit electrician that installed the luminare fitted the wrong
ballast, from day one the florescent tube did a fair bit of buzzing
and
flickering before it started - it got so much worse that I had a
problem
waiting for the light to come on so I could ****!

I tried an electronic starter, there was still a long wait but at
least
the
light came on eventually without a major drama.

When the tube refused to strike at all, I bought a new tube and an
electronic ballast on Ebay. The old tube worked OK with the
electronic
ballast and I got more or less its life expectancy from there.

When the fire alarm contractors did the corridor lights, I won a
couple
of
spare electronic ballasts and tubes, as well as the photo-sensor I
mentioned
on chatter.

When one of my fluorescent fittings dies, I remove the fitting and fit
something that takes LEDs.

The housing association insisted on a splashproof luminare in the bog -
I
only just managed to persuade the electrician not to put one in the
kitchen
too.

Who gives a **** what they insist on? When he leaves, remove it.

A few years ago Morrisons did a special offer of CFLs for 99p - then
extended the offer to buy one get one free, at that price I filled a
couple
of carrier bags.

While LED bulbs are still at least £9.99 and I'd need 3 to give the
same
light as a CFL, there isn't much incentive to make the change.

£15 gives you 150W equivalent. £10 gives you 100W equivalent. £3 gives
you 50W equivalent. And that's including postage.

There's not much point figuring out a conversion for the enclosed unit
that
I have 2 spare ballasts and 2 spare tubes for - way back when I bought
replacement parts, there weren't the options that are available now.

Might start visiting the dump again - if I can salvage a few GU10
fittings,
Home Bargains sometimes have 5W bulbs that are allegedly equal to 40W -
3
of
those in the bog fitting should be plenty.

LEDs that fit in GU10s run very hot and don't last long. I've gone off
CREE LEDs and go for the corn on the cob ones. Hundreds of tiny SMD
LEDs.

HB have had 2 types - a 4W with 4 SMD LEDs and a very tiny switcher PCB
inside the body, and a 5W one with 24 simpler SMD LEDs and a wattless
dropper.

Several in an enclosure could be a heat problem, so I'd prefer the
watless
dropper type when they have any in.

Look on Ebay, there are much cheaper better ones. But buy them from a UK
seller who is registered in the UK (not just posting from a port in the
UK). Otherwise the distance selling regulations won't help you if they
fail.

Most of what I've seen on Ebay that I'd want to order, is from China etc.

Royal Mail extorts a racketeering 'handling charge' for collecting any duty.

Its pretty much put me off bothering.

On Thu, 22 May 2014 17:21:44 +0100, Ian Field wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 21:51:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Wed, 21 May 2014 20:25:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news












The housing association insisted on a splashproof luminare in the bog -
I
only just managed to persuade the electrician not to put one in the
kitchen
too.

Who gives a **** what they insist on? When he leaves, remove it.

A few years ago Morrisons did a special offer of CFLs for 99p - then
extended the offer to buy one get one free, at that price I filled a
couple
of carrier bags.

While LED bulbs are still at least £9.99 and I'd need 3 to give the
same
light as a CFL, there isn't much incentive to make the change.

£15 gives you 150W equivalent. £10 gives you 100W equivalent. £3 gives
you 50W equivalent. And that's including postage.

There's not much point figuring out a conversion for the enclosed unit
that
I have 2 spare ballasts and 2 spare tubes for - way back when I bought
replacement parts, there weren't the options that are available now.

Might start visiting the dump again - if I can salvage a few GU10
fittings,
Home Bargains sometimes have 5W bulbs that are allegedly equal to 40W -
3
of
those in the bog fitting should be plenty.

LEDs that fit in GU10s run very hot and don't last long. I've gone off
CREE LEDs and go for the corn on the cob ones. Hundreds of tiny SMD
LEDs.

HB have had 2 types - a 4W with 4 SMD LEDs and a very tiny switcher PCB
inside the body, and a 5W one with 24 simpler SMD LEDs and a wattless
dropper.

Several in an enclosure could be a heat problem, so I'd prefer the
watless
dropper type when they have any in.

Look on Ebay, there are much cheaper better ones. But buy them from a UK
seller who is registered in the UK (not just posting from a port in the
UK). Otherwise the distance selling regulations won't help you if they
fail.

Most of what I've seen on Ebay that I'd want to order, is from China etc.

LED bulbs are plentiful on Ebay. There are loads of UK sellers who have imported thousands and sell them from this country, with our consumer protection laws applying.

Royal Mail extorts a racketeering 'handling charge' for collecting any duty.

Its pretty much put me off bothering.

What are you talking about?

--
How many potheads does it take to change a light bulb?
Two. One to hold the bulb against the socket, and the other to smoke up until the room starts spinning.

On Thu, 22 May 2014 17:18:31 +0100, Ian Field wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 22:20:36 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Wed, 21 May 2014 21:51:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news














HB have had 2 types - a 4W with 4 SMD LEDs and a very tiny switcher PCB
inside the body, and a 5W one with 24 simpler SMD LEDs and a wattless
dropper.

Several in an enclosure could be a heat problem, so I'd prefer the
watless
dropper type when they have any in.

I'd recommend you go for whatever has more LEDs. The big 1-2W LEDs
simply
cannot be cooled well enough.

The 4W one has 4x lens capped LEDs with a molded lens plate that fits
over
the lot so you don't get 4 little beams,

That sounds like CREE LEDs. The kind I have in GU10 that last about 4-6
months.

the 5W variety has 24 simple SMD
LEDs with no lens as such - much better spread of light IWHT.

Yes. I like the corn on the cob as the light comes out all round it and
the end, just like a CFL.

They're on a flat disc, not corn cob. Apart from H4 replacements I've only
seen corn cobs advertised in the Indian EFY magazine.

Ebay is full of corn cobs. I've got a few in the house now.

--
Peter is listening to Psy - Gangnam style

"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 22 May 2014 17:21:44 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 21 May 2014 21:51:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Wed, 21 May 2014 20:25:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news












The housing association insisted on a splashproof luminare in the
bog -
I
only just managed to persuade the electrician not to put one in the
kitchen
too.

Who gives a **** what they insist on? When he leaves, remove it.

A few years ago Morrisons did a special offer of CFLs for 99p - then
extended the offer to buy one get one free, at that price I filled a
couple
of carrier bags.

While LED bulbs are still at least £9.99 and I'd need 3 to give the
same
light as a CFL, there isn't much incentive to make the change.

£15 gives you 150W equivalent. £10 gives you 100W equivalent. £3
gives
you 50W equivalent. And that's including postage.

There's not much point figuring out a conversion for the enclosed
unit
that
I have 2 spare ballasts and 2 spare tubes for - way back when I
bought
replacement parts, there weren't the options that are available now.

Might start visiting the dump again - if I can salvage a few GU10
fittings,
Home Bargains sometimes have 5W bulbs that are allegedly equal to
40W -
3
of
those in the bog fitting should be plenty.

LEDs that fit in GU10s run very hot and don't last long. I've gone
off
CREE LEDs and go for the corn on the cob ones. Hundreds of tiny SMD
LEDs.

HB have had 2 types - a 4W with 4 SMD LEDs and a very tiny switcher PCB
inside the body, and a 5W one with 24 simpler SMD LEDs and a wattless
dropper.

Several in an enclosure could be a heat problem, so I'd prefer the
watless
dropper type when they have any in.

Look on Ebay, there are much cheaper better ones. But buy them from a
UK
seller who is registered in the UK (not just posting from a port in the
UK). Otherwise the distance selling regulations won't help you if they
fail.

Most of what I've seen on Ebay that I'd want to order, is from China etc.

LED bulbs are plentiful on Ebay. There are loads of UK sellers who have
imported thousands and sell them from this country, with our consumer
protection laws applying.

Royal Mail extorts a racketeering 'handling charge' for collecting any
duty.

Its pretty much put me off bothering.

What are you talking about?

A few years ago I ordered an electronics kit from Jaycar in Australia.

The duty to be collected was about £4 - that and the Royal Mail 'handling
charge' for collecting it came to more than 50% of what I paid for the kit!

Its pretty much blackmail - cough up the extortionate charge or you don't
get your goods - which will eventually be disposed of.

On Fri, 23 May 2014 17:12:48 +0100, Ian Field wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 22 May 2014 17:21:44 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Wed, 21 May 2014 21:51:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news














HB have had 2 types - a 4W with 4 SMD LEDs and a very tiny switcher PCB
inside the body, and a 5W one with 24 simpler SMD LEDs and a wattless
dropper.

Several in an enclosure could be a heat problem, so I'd prefer the
watless
dropper type when they have any in.

Look on Ebay, there are much cheaper better ones. But buy them from a
UK
seller who is registered in the UK (not just posting from a port in the
UK). Otherwise the distance selling regulations won't help you if they
fail.

Most of what I've seen on Ebay that I'd want to order, is from China etc.

LED bulbs are plentiful on Ebay. There are loads of UK sellers who have
imported thousands and sell them from this country, with our consumer
protection laws applying.

Royal Mail extorts a racketeering 'handling charge' for collecting any
duty.

Its pretty much put me off bothering.

What are you talking about?

A few years ago I ordered an electronics kit from Jaycar in Australia.

The duty to be collected was about £4 - that and the Royal Mail 'handling
charge' for collecting it came to more than 50% of what I paid for the kit!

Its pretty much blackmail - cough up the extortionate charge or you don't
get your goods - which will eventually be disposed of.

By "duty" I assume you mean import taxes. That shouldn't occur unless the item is over about £30-£50. Secondly any decent seller will write it as "gift" and value "$10".

--
Bills travel through the mail at twice the speed of cheques.

On 22/05/14 01:32, Ian Field wrote:


"Daniel" wrote in message
...
On 21/05/14 06:38, Ian Field wrote:

Snip

Its not power factor as I understood it to be, but it appears to have
become trendy to refer to any AC current waveform distortion as a PF
issue.

In any event; the circuitry to eliminate the current blips as the
rectifier tops up the reservoir has become generally referred to as
power factor correction.

Well then, what "has become generally referred to as power factor
correction" is *WRONG*

Nevertheless - your OPINION appears to be in the minority.

Does not mean my OPINION is wrong!!

Daniel

"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 23 May 2014 17:12:48 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 22 May 2014 17:21:44 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Wed, 21 May 2014 21:51:54 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news














HB have had 2 types - a 4W with 4 SMD LEDs and a very tiny switcher
PCB
inside the body, and a 5W one with 24 simpler SMD LEDs and a wattless
dropper.

Several in an enclosure could be a heat problem, so I'd prefer the
watless
dropper type when they have any in.

Look on Ebay, there are much cheaper better ones. But buy them from a
UK
seller who is registered in the UK (not just posting from a port in
the
UK). Otherwise the distance selling regulations won't help you if
they
fail.

Most of what I've seen on Ebay that I'd want to order, is from China
etc.

LED bulbs are plentiful on Ebay. There are loads of UK sellers who have
imported thousands and sell them from this country, with our consumer
protection laws applying.

Royal Mail extorts a racketeering 'handling charge' for collecting any
duty.

Its pretty much put me off bothering.

What are you talking about?

A few years ago I ordered an electronics kit from Jaycar in Australia.

The duty to be collected was about £4 - that and the Royal Mail 'handling
charge' for collecting it came to more than 50% of what I paid for the
kit!

Its pretty much blackmail - cough up the extortionate charge or you don't
get your goods - which will eventually be disposed of.

By "duty" I assume you mean import taxes. That shouldn't occur unless the
item is over about £30-£50. Secondly any decent seller will write it as
"gift" and value "$10".

Well Jaycar didn't, and I got mugged by RM.

"Daniel" wrote in message
...
On 22/05/14 01:32, Ian Field wrote:


"Daniel" wrote in message
...
On 21/05/14 06:38, Ian Field wrote:

Snip

Its not power factor as I understood it to be, but it appears to have
become trendy to refer to any AC current waveform distortion as a PF
issue.

In any event; the circuitry to eliminate the current blips as the
rectifier tops up the reservoir has become generally referred to as
power factor correction.

Well then, what "has become generally referred to as power factor
correction" is *WRONG*

Nevertheless - your OPINION appears to be in the minority.

Does not mean my OPINION is wrong!!

Never said it did - but you do seem a bit over keen to post your OPINION
where facts would be more appropriate.

On Sat, 24 May 2014 18:27:23 +0100, Ian Field wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 23 May 2014 17:12:48 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Thu, 22 May 2014 17:21:44 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
















Most of what I've seen on Ebay that I'd want to order, is from China
etc.

LED bulbs are plentiful on Ebay. There are loads of UK sellers who have
imported thousands and sell them from this country, with our consumer
protection laws applying.

Royal Mail extorts a racketeering 'handling charge' for collecting any
duty.

Its pretty much put me off bothering.

What are you talking about?

A few years ago I ordered an electronics kit from Jaycar in Australia.

The duty to be collected was about £4 - that and the Royal Mail 'handling
charge' for collecting it came to more than 50% of what I paid for the
kit!

Its pretty much blackmail - cough up the extortionate charge or you don't
get your goods - which will eventually be disposed of.

By "duty" I assume you mean import taxes. That shouldn't occur unless the
item is over about £30-£50. Secondly any decent seller will write it as
"gift" and value "$10".

Well Jaycar didn't, and I got mugged by RM.

It's simple. If you receive something from Ebay with unexpected duty, then don't pay. It goes back to the seller at their expense.

--
Men, here's a tip for dealing with the little lady.
If you upset your wife or girlfriend then she will nag you.
However, if you upset her EVEN MORE, you will get the silent treatment.

On 25/05/14 03:29, Ian Field wrote:


"Daniel" wrote in message
...
On 22/05/14 01:32, Ian Field wrote:


"Daniel" wrote in message
...
On 21/05/14 06:38, Ian Field wrote:

Snip

Its not power factor as I understood it to be, but it appears to have
become trendy to refer to any AC current waveform distortion as a PF
issue.

In any event; the circuitry to eliminate the current blips as the
rectifier tops up the reservoir has become generally referred to as
power factor correction.

Well then, what "has become generally referred to as power factor
correction" is *WRONG*

Nevertheless - your OPINION appears to be in the minority.

Does not mean my OPINION is wrong!!

Never said it did - but you do seem a bit over keen to post your OPINION
where facts would be more appropriate.

Not a problem, Ian! If you want to learn anything about Power Factor
have a look at....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor

Note in the first para, where they talk about "or due to a non-linear
load " they are talking about any circuit the contains a capacitor
and/or an inductor/transformer and/or a transistorised circuit.

I glanced over it .... didn't see anything to go against my " *OPINION*
" .... but I could be wrong!!

Daniel

Daniel

"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 24 May 2014 18:27:23 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 23 May 2014 17:12:48 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Thu, 22 May 2014 17:21:44 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
















Most of what I've seen on Ebay that I'd want to order, is from China
etc.

LED bulbs are plentiful on Ebay. There are loads of UK sellers who
have
imported thousands and sell them from this country, with our consumer
protection laws applying.

Royal Mail extorts a racketeering 'handling charge' for collecting
any
duty.

Its pretty much put me off bothering.

What are you talking about?

A few years ago I ordered an electronics kit from Jaycar in Australia.

The duty to be collected was about £4 - that and the Royal Mail
'handling
charge' for collecting it came to more than 50% of what I paid for the
kit!

Its pretty much blackmail - cough up the extortionate charge or you
don't
get your goods - which will eventually be disposed of.

By "duty" I assume you mean import taxes. That shouldn't occur unless
the
item is over about £30-£50. Secondly any decent seller will write it as
"gift" and value "$10".

Well Jaycar didn't, and I got mugged by RM.

It's simple. If you receive something from Ebay with unexpected duty,
then don't pay. It goes back to the seller at their expense.

Most places I order from won't send the goods till after payment clears.

"Daniel" wrote in message
...
On 25/05/14 03:29, Ian Field wrote:


"Daniel" wrote in message
...
On 22/05/14 01:32, Ian Field wrote:


"Daniel" wrote in message
...
On 21/05/14 06:38, Ian Field wrote:

Snip

Its not power factor as I understood it to be, but it appears to have
become trendy to refer to any AC current waveform distortion as a PF
issue.

In any event; the circuitry to eliminate the current blips as the
rectifier tops up the reservoir has become generally referred to as
power factor correction.

Well then, what "has become generally referred to as power factor
correction" is *WRONG*

Nevertheless - your OPINION appears to be in the minority.

Does not mean my OPINION is wrong!!

Never said it did - but you do seem a bit over keen to post your OPINION
where facts would be more appropriate.

Not a problem, Ian! If you want to learn anything about Power Factor have
a look at....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor

Note in the first para, where they talk about "or due to a non-linear load
" they are talking about any circuit the contains a capacitor and/or an
inductor/transformer and/or a transistorised circuit.

I glanced over it .... didn't see anything to go against my " *OPINION* "
.... but I could be wrong!!

Till the next time you post your OPINION as fact then.

Sure it won't be long.

On Sun, 25 May 2014 17:33:20 +0100, Ian Field wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 24 May 2014 18:27:23 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news On Fri, 23 May 2014 17:12:48 +0100, Ian Field
wrote:



"Uncle Peter" wrote in message
news


















A few years ago I ordered an electronics kit from Jaycar in Australia.

The duty to be collected was about £4 - that and the Royal Mail
'handling
charge' for collecting it came to more than 50% of what I paid for the
kit!

Its pretty much blackmail - cough up the extortionate charge or you
don't
get your goods - which will eventually be disposed of.

By "duty" I assume you mean import taxes. That shouldn't occur unless
the
item is over about £30-£50. Secondly any decent seller will write it as
"gift" and value "$10".

Well Jaycar didn't, and I got mugged by RM.

It's simple. If you receive something from Ebay with unexpected duty,
then don't pay. It goes back to the seller at their expense.

Most places I order from won't send the goods till after payment clears.

Yes, but we were discussing the duty open RECEIPT.

--
Reality is for people who can't handle alcohol and joints.

On Sun, 25 May 2014, Daniel wrote:

Not a problem, Ian! If you want to learn anything about Power Factor have a
look at....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor

Note in the first para, where they talk about "or due to a non-linear load "
they are talking about any circuit the contains a capacitor and/or an
inductor/transformer and/or a transistorised circuit.

I glanced over it .... didn't see anything to go against my " *OPINION* "
.... but I could be wrong!!
If you read down a bit you see they list capacitors & inductors under
linear loads. Here linear means e=Zi where Z is the impedence & e & i are
the instantaneous voltage & current. Basically, you put a sine wave
voltage in, you get a sine wave current with a possible phase shift out.
Non-linear devices give current that has harmonics or has term like i^2,
i^3 or v^2 etc. or where Z is a function of voltage or current. e.g.
distortion to the sine wave other than a simple phase shift.

Z /can/ depend on frequency but not voltage or current, so its a touch
more messy if the input isn't a sine wave.

For linear loads
(1) pf = real power/apparent power, real power= RMS(e x i),
appearant power = RMS(e) x RMS(i)
and
(2) pf = cos(phi)
are equivalent. For non-linear loads (2) is less usefull so you either
need a new term or you need to generalize from (1) which seems to be what
was done. C'est la vie say the old folks.

Ron